Stuck Mojave Wheel Nut

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Arrma RC's
  1. BigRock 4x4
  2. Fireteam
  3. Infraction
  4. Kraton 8S
  5. Kraton 6s
  6. Mojave
  7. Senton 3s
  8. Typhon 3s
Hey guys, so I was running the Mojo while out of town and one of the two locking wheel nuts came off. As a temporary fix until I returned home I went to a nearby hardware store and grabbed some blue loctite to make sure I didn't lose the last nut until I could make it home and order a new set. This was my first experience with loctite and I seem to have over done it. As you can see from the picture, I've tried torching it, using brake cleaner, but nothing will remove this 🤬 nut. The whole screw/axle just spins every time I turn the wheel nut with a wrench. Any suggestions or solvents would be great appreciated. Thanks.

20220815_144418.jpg
 
Hey guys, so I was running the Mojo while out of town and one of the two locking wheel nuts came off. As a temporary fix until I returned home I went to a nearby hardware store and grabbed some blue loctite to make sure I didn't lose the last nut until I could make it home and order a new set. This was my first experience with loctite and I seem to have over done it. As you can see from the picture, I've tried torching it, using brake cleaner, but nothing will remove this 🤬 nut. The whole screw/axle just spins every time I turn the wheel nut with a wrench. Any suggestions or solvents would be great appreciated. Thanks.

View attachment 236422

Use an impact driver with the correct size socket ,that should solve your problem.
 
Use an impact driver with the correct size socket ,that should solve your problem.
Well off to the hardware store I go. Of course the only 17mm socket that I would have is the actual wheel wrench 🤦🏽Guess this is a good time to invest in a new socket set. Thanks guys, I'll let you know how it goes.
 
I always carry these in a small ‘emergency’ pouch when bashing.
Left a cheap Aliexpress/Amazon aluminium 17mm wrench. On the right a real solid and longer aluminium 17mm wrench from my LHS.

You can also heat the wheel axle with a soldering iron to try and get the locktite get loose.

image.jpg
 
I always carry these in a small ‘emergency’ pouch when bashing.
Left a cheap Aliexpress/Amazon aluminium 17mm wrench. On the right a real solid and longer aluminium 17mm wrench from my LHS.

View attachment 236425
I keep one of those in my bashing kit as well, but unfortunately I can't put those on the end of my impact as suggested by the members above.
 
I keep one of those in my bashing kit as well, but unfortunately I can't put those on the end of my impact as suggested by the members above.
Put aluminium foil on the wheel and cut out just enough for the wheel axle and nut to stick out. This will deflect the heat.Then use a mini blow torch / jet flame lighter to give 🔥 all around the contact area of the wheel nut and axle. You can also use a soldering iron.
 
Hey guys, so I was running the Mojo while out of town and one of the two locking wheel nuts came off. As a temporary fix until I returned home I went to a nearby hardware store and grabbed some blue loctite to make sure I didn't lose the last nut until I could make it home and order a new set. This was my first experience with loctite and I seem to have over done it. As you can see from the picture, I've tried torching it, using brake cleaner, but nothing will remove this 🤬 nut. The whole screw/axle just spins every time I turn the wheel nut with a wrench. Any suggestions or solvents would be great appreciated. Thanks.

View attachment 236422
Sounds like the hex is stripped in the wheel? You say the wheel nut is turning without the wheel itself turning?
If so, you can disconnect the camber link from the shock tower, remove the dog bone and use a flat blade screwdriver to hold the stub axle from turning while wrenching the wheel nut on the other end. Probably need an extra set of hands.
I just realized this is on the front wheel, nevermind the camber link/screwdriver method. Can the pivot ball be removed through the mojave wheels? Worth a shot.. or perhaps pull the top arm pivot pin so you can release the cvd from the diff cup. Then grab the cvd with pliers.
 
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Sounds like the hex is stripped in the wheel? You say the wheel nut is turning without the wheel itself turning?
If so, you can disconnect the camber link from the shock tower, remove the dog bone and use a flat blade screwdriver to hold the stub axle from turning while wrenching the wheel nut on the other end. Probably need an extra set of hands.
I just realized this is on the front wheel, nevermind the camber link/screwdriver method. Can the pivot ball be removed through the mojave wheels? Worth a shot.. or perhaps pull the top arm pivot pin so you can release the cvd from the diff cup. Then grab the cvd with pliers.

IF that is the case.. Then he will need to use some channel locks on the drive shaft to hold it steady while using the impact driver..
May want to wrap the drive shaft with some aluminum tape or similar thin metal to prevent the channel locks from digging too deep into the drive shaft.
 
Alright guys, so I tried the impact and that didn't work. It's just causing all of the other wheels to spin/turn at the same time. I believe what @KnowAir & @Tex Koder are suggesting is my only resort. The driveshaft has to be held with some locking pliers. I've tried heating this thing with a butane pocket torch earlier in the day and that didn't work. Perhaphs i didn't do it long enough, not sure. But I definitely need to hold the dog bone to keep it from spinning while I turn the nut.
 
IIRC, the easiest way to get a front cvd out of the diff cup without wheel removal is to pull the inner upper hinge pin.. I've had to do that when the cvd popped out of the diff cupafter a bad landing. Everything was bound up tight..and the cvd was wedged under the diff outdrive.
I should add that the shock will need to be disconnected also, bottom mount is easiest to get off.
Alright guys, so I tried the impact and that didn't work. It's just causing all of the other wheels to spin/turn at the same time. I believe what @KnowAir & @Tex Koder are suggesting is my only resort. The driveshaft has to be held with some locking pliers. I've tried heating this thing with a butane pocket torch earlier in the day and that didn't work. Perhaphs i didn't do it long enough, not sure. But I definitely need to hold the dog bone to keep it from spinning while I turn the nut.
I would pull the upper hinge pin, lower shock pin, then grab the ball end of the cvd with pliers. If you're concerned of damaging the cvd, you could try wrapping it with something as @Tex Koder suggested.
 
I’ve used wd-40 & some heat to loosen up grub screws with the red loctite armma likes to use… not sure if it will work in your application 🤷🏼‍♂️
 
I’ve used wd-40 & some heat to loosen up grub screws with the red loctite armma likes to use… not sure if it will work in your application 🤷🏼‍♂️
That'll likely be the next step after getting the wheel off. For those, I have used a thin punch and hammer to drve the pin out. Then you can apply the heat to the axle as needed to get that pesky grub screw out with less concern of ruining the bearings, aluminum stub or plastic hub carrier.
I'm only saying this due to just how quickly the bearings go bad on these rigs, I'm guessing the bearings are probably in need or soon to be in need of replacement. I'm always surprised at how fast they get crunchy. It's like what!? I just put new bearings in like a month ago! Usually it's been longer but they do take alot of abuse. The inners especially.
 
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I appreciate all the help guys, but at this point I think I'm just gonna take it to my LHS tmrw and let them work their magic. I've become really good friends with them over the past several months, so they usually do minor things like this for free, or they give me a really steep discount. I don't wanna wreak anymore havoc than I already have 😁
 
I appreciate all the help guys, but at this point I think I'm just gonna take it to my LHS tmrw and let them work their magic. I've become really good friends with them over the past several months, so they usually do minor things like this for free, or they give me a really steep discount. I don't wanna wreak anymore havoc than I already have 😁
Kudos, no shame in that. If I had a dollar for everytime I made something worses by "fixing " it myself..😂😂
 
Since so much help was offered by you guys, I just wanted to come back and let you all know the nut has finally been removed! 😁 The hobby shop removed the nut & replaced the bent front shock tower all for only $18. The guy said he heated the stud and nut for about 2-3 mins, then held the axle from spinning with a wrench and it came right off. Thanks again everyone.
 
It took me FOREVER to watch it because I thought it was too dumb to watch but when I did it had me rolling! hahaha
I remembered it clearly back in the late 70s and early 80s. Had a huge gym at my school and it was utter chaos With all the stereo typical big jock guys going after us small fast guys 😂 good times.
 
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