Stupid thoughts

[ColosTommy]

I was just contemplating things, when i wondered if anyone has been mad/stupid enough to run different wheels on the front and rear of their truck. Obviously it brings up some interesting issues, i was thinking about what would happen if you ran an unbelted tyre on the front and a belted tyre on the rear.

Assuming they both start at the same rolling radius, as you'd effectively get an increase in front wheel speed as the vehicle gets faster and the front wheel balloons.

I'm in no way saying this would be a desirable thing, but it may be interesting, changing the characteristics of the car.

Has anyone tried anything like this before?

 

[Garcbomber]

I ran gp4 rear and gp5 front diffs for a while in Notorious last year. 165mm rear and 150mm front tire sizes, mainly just to try. Ended up snapping a front output pin a couple packs through landing on power.

 

[Hector_Fisher]

I worked for 6 or 7 years in few tire shops. We would get publications from various 1:1 vehicle manufacturers stating to not mix and match tire sizes or tread as it would strain drivetrain components and cause failure in the long run. As a real life example, we had one customer bring us a set of winter tires to change into. The tech that worked on it didn't do his due diligence to check that the customer had brought us two pairs of slightly different size tires, and installed them on some guys outback. Needless to say, apparently the guys diff overheated from overactivity on the highway and we ended up having to pay quite a bit for some repairs.

So in an extreme example, yes it does matter. Will it cause issues in an RC car...? Not as likely since the "scale" distances we drive are so much less. I'd say it's fine to test out, I wouldn't expect any issues over a short term. Like on your 1:1 car you can drive with one donut spare installed for short periods and it shouldn't cause too much harm.

 

[dgitalchaos]

I tested this on an Infraction using Felony tires without changing the diff gearing. Did several runs. First couple runs, center diff got to 108°F due to the difference in rotation. I thought, “not bad.” I did 4 more passes and checked the temps. Motor and ESC were fine, but center diff was at 193°F. It certainly strains the center diff running different sized tires without adjusting the diff gear ratio. Fortunately, my center diff on my Infraction is Aluminum, so there was no permanent damage after cleaning and changing the diff fluid.

It also felt squirrely as the rear tires tried pushing more than the front were pulling. Fun little experiment.

 

[Johnny b]

No, I've never tried it but I'm definitely stupid enough to.

 

[Dan B.]

Others have done this, and some (@Ron Burgandy ) even likes the effect. But yes, it eats diffs and center driveline components more quickly.

 

[Ron Burgandy]

Did someone say Stupid ???

This made me lol
When @Dan B. read stupid he thought of me !!!!! lol

Yes I’ve tried it and have had good luck with factory power but after I installed my TP 98000000000 it began to destroy diffs
So no on the path to running lockers all the way around ….
What’s the worst that could happen?!
lol

 

[ColosTommy]

Did someone say Stupid ???

Yes I’ve tried it and have had good luck with factory power

What wheel/tyre combination have you used on what truck?

Can you describe the difference in driving characteristics, or is it just less definable and just you like the feel of it more?

Have you tried belted and unbelted on the same vehicle?

 

[Ron Burgandy]

Actually I’m running same size tires front and rear on a Felony AKA “FELONACTION”
As apposed to the factory larger diameter rear tires
However I’m using taller Gp5 gear in front and gp5 in rear

I prefer the way it pulls the front out of a solid drift assisting in straightening the vehicle up without having to slow down or let out of throttle …
I’ve of course only done this with on road rig so…..
YMMV
RFB

 

[Dan B.]

Did someone say Stupid ???

View attachment 340533
This made me lol
When @Dan B. read stupid he thought of me !!!!! lol

Yes I’ve tried it and have had good luck with factory power but after I installed my TP 98000000000 it began to destroy diffs
So no on the path to running lockers all the way around ….
What’s the worst that could happen?!
lol

That’s hilarious, I didn’t even remember the name of the thread when I tagged you.
But I definitely do not think of you when I think of stupid, that’s for sure! Happy New Year, sir!

 

[rotauq]

My stupid idea would be the reverse of yours. Putting belted in front and unbelted in the rear (for high speed offroading)

Diff tends to send most power to the front and balloon the front tires, lifting up the front. When belted, the front will not lift as much. Whiles the rear can balloon, it will keep the front down as the rear is raised. Weight distribution on full power will not have the rear balloon all the way and not strain the center diff as much as it would in the front.
Not sure if it would drive as good as 4x belted, but raise the rear on higher speeds certainly would be nice.

 

[Garcbomber]

My stupid idea would be the reverse of yours. Putting belted in front and unbelted in the rear (for high speed offroading)

Diff tends to send most power to the front and balloon the front tires, lifting up the front. When belted, the front will not lift as much. Whiles the rear can balloon, it will keep the front down as the rear is raised. Weight distribution on full power will not have the rear balloon all the way and not strain the center diff as much as it would in the front.
Not sure if it would drive as good as 4x belted, but raise the rear on higher speeds certainly would be nice.

This is the functional way of doing it, front pulls the rig faster as the rear stabilizes and pushes initially.

How I did 0-60mph snow and sand runs, offset the front wider so they are digging their own fresh trenches like a competition pulling vehicle.

Notorious was just for buggy staggered aesthetics.