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^^^
I am sure it works for you. Just that it's the wrong way. The inaccurate way. Spinning your wheels there.
If you truly understand what "Shock" Droop is, you would realize that disconnecting the shock altogether is the incorrect way to measure the droop altogether. You simply cannot effectvely set droop, identically at both shocks , in pairs, if the shocks are disconnected at the tower.
Many focus on the Arm's droop. But it is the Shocks final extended Stroke itself that is affected. And matters most. Need a Caliper to measure each shock from eye to eye, while they are attatched, to dial in proper and equal droop. A few mm off, not matching in shock pairs from left to right side, actually matters most. FWIW, when building/checking the shocks them selves, the shaft's lengths adjusted at the shock ends, must also be identical in pairs First, or any difference at this stage, will translate to incorrect shock droop when adjusting.
I hope this makes some sense.
Maybe learned something? IDK.
This is just basic fundamental RC stuff, when it comes to chassis setup.
If you have built up many race kits before, this is just how they are designed, built and adjusted. These 6s Arrma's follow suit, the same way.
Best to run Real Actual Droop specific Screws. Arrma really cheaped out on this.
I am sure it works for you. Just that it's the wrong way. The inaccurate way. Spinning your wheels there.
If you truly understand what "Shock" Droop is, you would realize that disconnecting the shock altogether is the incorrect way to measure the droop altogether. You simply cannot effectvely set droop, identically at both shocks , in pairs, if the shocks are disconnected at the tower.
Many focus on the Arm's droop. But it is the Shocks final extended Stroke itself that is affected. And matters most. Need a Caliper to measure each shock from eye to eye, while they are attatched, to dial in proper and equal droop. A few mm off, not matching in shock pairs from left to right side, actually matters most. FWIW, when building/checking the shocks them selves, the shaft's lengths adjusted at the shock ends, must also be identical in pairs First, or any difference at this stage, will translate to incorrect shock droop when adjusting.
I hope this makes some sense.
Maybe learned something? IDK.
This is just basic fundamental RC stuff, when it comes to chassis setup.
If you have built up many race kits before, this is just how they are designed, built and adjusted. These 6s Arrma's follow suit, the same way.
Best to run Real Actual Droop specific Screws. Arrma really cheaped out on this.
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