Talion Talion exb outdrive cup

[SrC]

^^^

I am sure it works for you. Just that it's the wrong way. The inaccurate way. Spinning your wheels there.
If you truly understand what "Shock" Droop is, you would realize that disconnecting the shock altogether is the incorrect way to measure the droop altogether. You simply cannot effectvely set droop, identically at both shocks , in pairs, if the shocks are disconnected at the tower.
Many focus on the Arm's droop. But it is the Shocks final extended Stroke itself that is affected. And matters most. Need a Caliper to measure each shock from eye to eye, while they are attatched, to dial in proper and equal droop. A few mm off, not matching in shock pairs from left to right side, actually matters most. FWIW, when building/checking the shocks them selves, the shaft's lengths adjusted at the shock ends, must also be identical in pairs First, or any difference at this stage, will translate to incorrect shock droop when adjusting.
I hope this makes some sense.
Maybe learned something? IDK.
This is just basic fundamental RC stuff, when it comes to chassis setup.
If you have built up many race kits before, this is just how they are designed, built and adjusted. These 6s Arrma's follow suit, the same way.
Best to run Real Actual Droop specific Screws. Arrma really cheaped out on this.

 

[slick2500]

^^^

I am sure it works for you. Just that it's the wrong way. The inaccurate way. Spinning your wheels there.
If you truly understand what "Shock" Droop is, you would realize that disconnecting the shock altogether is the incorrect way to measure the droop altogether. You simply cannot effectvely set droop, identically at both shocks , in pairs, if the shocks are disconnected at the tower.
Many focus on the Arm's droop. But it is the Shocks final extended Stroke itself that is affected. And matters most. Need a Caliper to measure each shock from eye to eye, while they are attatched, to dial in proper and equal droop. A few mm off, not matching in shock pairs from left to right side, actually matters most. FWIW, when building/checking the shocks them selves, the shaft's lengths adjusted at the shock ends, must also be identical in pairs First, or any difference at this stage, will translate to incorrect shock droop when adjusting.
I hope this makes some sense.
Maybe learned something? IDK.
This is just basic fundamental RC stuff, when it comes to chassis setup.
If you have built up many race kits before, this is just how they are designed, built and adjusted. These 6s Arrma's follow suit, the same way.
Best to run Real Actual Droop specific Screws. Arrma really cheaped out on this.

The first few versions of the Arrma 6s platform just came with grub screws.

 

[SrC]

Yeah I remember those days too, my first OC, V4 Kraton, and V1 Noto., if I am correct. My OC chassis got a hole gouged through one of the chassis' droop ears. Stupid cheap long grub/ setscrews. Repurposed as Droop screws.
With my recent FT, wierd that Arrma used washers on the Droop screws, like they were pre-setting the droop for some reason? Dumb IMHO.
At least they are Button head screws now.
What truly bothers me is that my TLRT doesn't even come with Proper droop screws. A supposed Race Ready out the box, Arrma Buggy.
Arrma has them as an option part. What I used instead of Avid Ti ones for this rig.

 

[slick2500]

Yeah I remember those days too, my first OC, V4 Kraton, and V1 Noto., if I am correct. My OC chassis got a hole gouged through one of the chassis' droop ears.

My og Outcast chassis was pretty close too

 

[hobo]

^^^

I am sure it works for you. Just that it's the wrong way. The inaccurate way. Spinning your wheels there.
If you truly understand what "Shock" Droop is, you would realize that disconnecting the shock altogether is the incorrect way to measure the droop altogether. You simply cannot effectvely set droop, identically at both shocks , in pairs, if the shocks are disconnected at the tower.
Many focus on the Arm's droop. But it is the Shocks final extended Stroke itself that is affected. And matters most. Need a Caliper to measure each shock from eye to eye, while they are attatched, to dial in proper and equal droop. A few mm off, not matching in shock pairs from left to right side, actually matters most. FWIW, when building/checking the shocks them selves, the shaft's lengths adjusted at the shock ends, must also be identical in pairs First, or any difference at this stage, will translate to incorrect shock droop when adjusting.
I hope this makes some sense.
Maybe learned something? IDK.
This is just basic fundamental RC stuff, when it comes to chassis setup.
If you have built up many race kits before, this is just how they are designed, built and adjusted. These 6s Arrma's follow suit, the same way.
Best to run Real Actual Droop specific Screws. Arrma really cheaped out on this.

yes I no all that its just easier to get to the grub screws it you take the shock tops off don't no why arrma have done it this way they should be like the m2c racing ones so you adjust from the top