Fireteam Talion XL from Fireteam MT build

[sumguy75]

Yeah I love working on it especially with all the extra room compared to the Typhon. Had a few more early breaks than I had hoped, but I'm sticking to this one until it's bada$$!
It's already wicked fast on 22/46 gearing on the 1480kv 4092 motor and Backflips.

 

[KnowAir]

Yeah I love working on it especially with all the extra room compared to the Typhon. Had a few more early breaks than I had hoped, but I'm sticking to this one until it's bada$$!
It's already wicked fast on 22/46 gearing on the 1480kv 4092 motor and Backflips.

Some epic builds you've been putting up!! Great work yet again!!

 

[SrC]

Should be a little tougher now. Added aluminum front and rear mounts to a new carbon fiber tower brace from ebay that @MMoelmann recommended. Needed 1 suspension arm shim for each mount and now it's super solid.
Also swapped to the EXB bumper to run with my truck body after @SrC pointed out the FT front bumper is a lot weaker without the FT body locked in with it.

It's been raining almost every time I've had a chance to bash lately but hoping to give it another bash soon.

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I really like the way you beefed it up. Exactly at the points that are important.
I installed a "standoff" created out of a spare body post cut to perfect size. You could use anything like alloy, depending what you have around, between the 2 rear body post mounts so they are connected. The holes are there already on each body post mount. It does help keep the body square to the chassis and rear shock tower during impacts. Big difference now. The posts don't loosen up or pull out. I keep a few spare body clips there as backups when I bend/ or lose mine out bashing. It does happen. I highly recommend this easy mod of mine. Give it a try.

 

[KnowAir]

I really like the way you beefed it up. Exactly at the points that are important.
I installed a "standoff" between the 2 rear body post mounts so they are connected. The holes are there already on each body post mount. It does help keep the body square to the chassis and rear shock tower during impacts. Big difference now. The posts don't loosen up or pull out. I keep a few spare body clips there as backups when I bend/ or lose mine out bashing. It does happen.

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I just did something similar to my mojo bumper spring..filled it with 3m weatherstrip adhesive..taking forever to cure though. Guess it's not porous? I wrapped it with electrical tape for now..hoping it cures, I don't want that stuff splattering all over on an impact!!

 

[SrC]

You mean the Bumper "Hoops" ? I stuff them too.
Yeah I do that to all these types of bumper springs. Even the EXB Basher bumper on my Kraton. Mojo also. I used High density closed cell foam over sized and stuffed the hoops/springs. Need to remove the hoop assy to stuff it tight with your fingers. How I did it. the material must be almost hard, or the hoops will still crack apart. My Mojo gave me a hard time with that.

But for the FT specifically, "connecting" both Rear FT body mounts pictured above (shown with spare body clips) really makes a difference. Keeps the body square to the chassis on impacts. The body at the rear doesn't shift with a hard impact. The mounts don't pull or twist out of the rear Tower anymore. This is a high stress point area.

 

[KnowAir]

Wish I had filled the mojo "hoops" BEFORE breaking one side..oh well. It feels quite solid last I checked.. I have the hybrid skid/bumper support going on, adds alot of rigidity, hoping not too much.

Yep, I know it's crooked..it's my trademark!
I removed the plastic strip from the mojo bumper that Arrma used to secure the rubber flap, replaced the plastic strip with 1/8" Kydex..adds a bit more rigidity. Same at the rear bumper, removed the gas can rack, reinforced with Kydex as well.. my bro is in for it this year when we trade paint on the track!!
As a bonus, the rear mojo bumper does pretty well as a wheelie "skid/stop".

 

[sumguy75]

I had thought about drilling 2 holes in a strip of kydex to brace the body mounts but that looks a lot stronger with a mounting post.

 

[SrC]

It works, its simple. Try it.
I had some broken scrap Mojo body post long enough to trim to fit there. Drill holes at both ends and use 2 screws through the holes already there on the mounts. CF solid rod or alloy standoffs could even work. Measure twice cut once.
This keeps the rear of the body keyed into and square onto the rear bumper and shock tower with hard hits. The mounts wont twist and pull out anymore.

 

[sumguy75]

Took it out today and ran it on 6s today with 22/46 gearing, wow what a beast!
Didn't even get to finish one battery though, had to stop 3 times to get rocks out of the chassis stuck between spur and battery box!

I'm tossing the battery box, what a ridiculous design with the battery strap positioned in line with the spur gear and almost no space in between.

Typhon 3s melted 4 center shafts in 3 months, Typhon 6s fried a motor from a rock creating just enough friction on the center diff to not notice a power loss but still stress the motor. Smelled the motor on the Typhon when it passed me and stopped to check and motor was 248 degrees

I know dust covers create air flow issues, I don't care about blocking dust, I need to keep the rocks out!!!

 

[MMoelmann]

Took it out today and ran it on 6s today with 22/46 gearing, wow what a beast!
Didn't even get to finish one battery though, had to stop 3 times to get rocks out of the chassis stuck between spur and battery box.
I'm tossing the battery box, what a ridiculous design with the battery strap positioned in line with the spur gear.

Typhon 3s melted 4 center shafts in 3 months, Typhon 6s fried a motor from a rock creating just enough friction on the center diff to not notice a power loss but still stress the motor. Smelled the motor on the Typhon when it passed me and stopped to check and motor was 248 degrees

I know dust covers create air flow issues, I don't care about blocking dust, I need to keep the rocks out!!!

Are you having any problems with overheating? Have you checked motor temps? I'm afraid to gear mine that high.

 

[sumguy75]

The 22/46 has been fine with the 1480kv Hobbystar motor. I ran it on 4s a few times now with no fans and was around 140. Ran it on 6s with no fans once with no problems but it was wet with a lot of puddles, temps were 90 after a full 6s pack lol. Outside temps have been mostly in the 40s so no real heat challenge yet, I have fans ready to plug and mount in the next week or so, just haven't needed them yet.

Got a pic of the rock problem here...

My real issue is my bash spots that aren't grass are completely full of rocks like those, they love to get wedged between the battery box and center diff.

 

[sumguy75]

Took it out again today and ran 2 full packs of 6s,,,no rock problems!!

I've put a lot of work into it and didn't want to take it easy at all so I didn't. Ran it hard at one of my roughest bash spots and it ate it up and asked for more, lol. Even got the nerve to try a little air on a small dirt hill and managed to nail a solid backflip 3 times in the first 3 tries, never done that before, lol. Kept on moving and ran it wide open across a dirt and rock field about the size of a football field and would loop back around for a run across the roughest part at about half throttle. This thing just absorbed/bounced/jumped/high sided/etc. and somehow always seemed to be easier regain control than I thought anything could be on ground that rough.

I did brace the rear body mounts together like @SrC suggested but used a standoff spacer had handy and happened to be the perfect length.

Also added a kydex plate to the truck bed to keep it from getting destroyed without a wing.

Seems pretty solid to me so far. This being a crawler body and being a good bit thicker than most Proline bodies already makes it a solid choice. I think with a few reinforcements this body will be very durable.

 

[sumguy75]

Jconcepts Fling Kings adde, now it looks more like a monster truck lol.

 

[sumguy75]

M2c chassis is here! Im feeling pretty lazy about wrenching so it might be a few days before i do anything with it.

 

[sumguy75]

Customizing the stock body approximately 82.57% complete...

 

[KnowAir]

Took it out again today and ran 2 full packs of 6s,,,no rock problems!!

I've put a lot of work into it and didn't want to take it easy at all so I didn't. Ran it hard at one of my roughest bash spots and it ate it up and asked for more, lol. Even got the nerve to try a little air on a small dirt hill and managed to nail a solid backflip 3 times in the first 3 tries, never done that before, lol. Kept on moving and ran it wide open across a dirt and rock field about the size of a football field and would loop back around for a run across the roughest part at about half throttle. This thing just absorbed/bounced/jumped/high sided/etc. and somehow always seemed to be easier regain control than I thought anything could be on ground that rough.

I did brace the rear body mounts together like @SrC suggested but used a standoff spacer had handy and happened to be the perfect length.
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Also added a kydex plate to the truck bed to keep it from getting destroyed without a wing.
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Seems pretty solid to me so far. This being a crawler body and being a good bit thicker than most Proline bodies already makes it a solid choice. I think with a few reinforcements this body will be very durable.

Those larger holes are there to clear the shocks and tower? I had to do similar with the Shredder body to get it "hunkered down"..
Do you have a cage supporting the body in the cab area? I used the Kraton cage, had to add quite a bit of padding to get a good contact with the body. My Wolverine has been holding up well thus far. Needs FT springs, or a diet.. depends on what I want to use it for I guess.. track or bash. Track needs a diet, and appropriate tires..bash needs heavier springs..

 

[sumguy75]

Yeah I ended up overtrimming the front of the Silverado body and lowered it to compensate which made me have to trim a hole for the rear shocks/tower. No cage in it, the lexan is thicker than any shell I've painted before and I've painted a lot of different bodies, lol. Its landed upside down pretty hard a few times and no issues other than scratches. Still not a bad idea to reinforce since its such a heavy rig and I bought some polycarbonate tubes on Amazon to see if I can make something custom sized for the double cab. At the very least I can line the cab frame with the tubes and shoe goo them into place. Will definitely make it stronger, I just have no idea how much.
Yeah I'm having an identity crisis with my FT. I don't have room for anymore rigs and this is my only 6s rig. I want it to be everything from a lightweight Talion like speedster to a big bruising monster buggy, lol. Gotta narrow that down at least a little bit!

 

[KnowAir]

Yeah I ended up overtrimming the front of the Silverado body and lowered it to compensate which made me have to trim a hole for the rear shocks/tower. No cage in it, the lexan is thicker than any shell I've painted before and I've painted a lot of different bodies, lol. Its landed upside down pretty hard a few times and no issues other than scratches. Still not a bad idea to reinforce since its such a heavy rig and I bought some polycarbonate tubes on Amazon to see if I can make something custom sized for the double cab. At the very least I can line the cab frame with the tubes and shoe goo them into place. Will definitely make it stronger, I just have no idea how much.
Yeah I'm having an identity crisis with my FT. I don't have room for anymore rigs and this is my only 6s rig. I want it to be everything from a lightweight Talion like speedster to a big bruising monster buggy, lol. Gotta narrow that down at least a little bit!

Identity crisis, yes, that's what I meant about my Wolverine (Kraton XL).. I have a plethora of 1/8 truggies that fill my track needs.. so, MT the Wolverine shall be. Thanks, you pointed out what I knew all along but didn't realize.
The Wolverine is donning BF MT's at the moment, but I think I prefer the Kronos tires honestly, they're so much lighter and more grip I feel..
So the Fling Kings ended up on the FT instead of the Kraton?

 

[sumguy75]

Finally finished working on the stock body! Pretty happy with the result.

I ditched the rear panels after one broke. I used .020 polycarbonate to make some rear fenders, its VERY flexible. I just cut it close to the size i neededand drilled the holes one at a time started at the bottom and trimming excess material so it would lay over the next hole to be drilled.

The windshield was a pain, its 2 pieces of polycarbonate and 1 piece of kydex with screws, zip ties. Took way too long!

Overall im happy with it. Next its time to take it out bashing.

 

[KnowAir]

Finally finished working on the stock body! Pretty happy with the result.

I ditched the rear panels after one broke. I used .020 polycarbonate to make some rear fenders, its VERY flexible. I just cut it close to the size i neededand drilled the holes one at a time started at the bottom and trimming excess material so it would lay over the next hole to be drilled.

The windshield was a pain, its 2 pieces of polycarbonate and 1 piece of kydex with screws, zip ties. Took way too long!

Overall im happy with it. Next its time to take it out bashing. View attachment 300057View attachment 300058

Look's pretty sweet! I'd like to see that done with a 1:1 monster truck!! Might have to send a pick of that to them Anderson boys!? Would be bad azz!