The unofficial Losi Tenacity DB Pro thread by Alex.M. and slick2500.

[parcou]

Thank for all the detailed info!!

I do need to probably go through this whole thread

Take your time. It takes times time to get your feel for tires. I'm not a street guy for off-road rigs. I always have to sets for Kraton, Big Rock, etc for low traction and high traction for all 4x4s. I've lost a lot of money finding the right combination but I now know what I like.

Have fun with it stock tires are good just reglue them regardless of how well they look. Stock have a good balance of both my likes.

 

[Hypnotoad]

I run Proline Badlands MX buggy tires and some knock off Badland like tires I got on Amazon. The Amazon buggy tires are pretty good on grass and on the street. Surprisingly they don’t wear super fast either. Like @parcou, I like to drift into turns, and both of these sets of tires work great for drifting.

 

[stevenwm]

This is a hard one so keep asking and looking. I use the Proline 2.2/3.0 Beadlock rims with tires BUT with the 2650kv motor and 18T pinion, I had to add glue to the tires. Should not since they are Beadlock but I did to keep them from pulling out the bead. Working fine now....not what I expected to do.

Prior I used Proline MX Badline 2.8" belted tire worked great but in a turn bite too much and it flipped...I like to drift a turn so pulled those off. These came as full tire like most, no Beadlock.

For the grass and hard-packed dirt, I use PL Blockade on the rims above. Work great since I want slip-on high traction surface like grass.

When I need grip and bit, I use the Badland MX which we all know they grip and these are on the same rims mentioned above.

Love both sets for the locations I used them in or the conditions of the area I can pick. Some like the big truggy tires but not a fan of the big tires on this buggy or Typhon....that's me.

It's a lot of reading but I read this whole thread once but was a lot of good info on tires, etc and everything

MX Badland for grip on beadlocks
View attachment 225660


Love these on the grass or areas I need grip and slip on beadlocks....wonderful tire! Similar to the Typhon TLR tire
View attachment 225662


Belted ones I pulled off...not heavy worked great no ballooning...since they are belted and taller does not give in a turn and it rolled/flipped the RC. Otherwise I would put them back on but I like to drift my turns on all off-road RCs
View attachment 225663

I will be driving mostly hard and loose dirt

I’m also looking to drift into turns ...
Do you think these DuraTrax would work for that

 

[parcou]

I will be driving mostly hard and loose dirt

I’m also looking to drift into turns ...
Do you think these DuraTrax would work for that

View attachment 225958

Nice looking tire...I agree!

 

[Maxx. D]

The Exotek aluminum bell crank and a reciever box were my first upgrades on mine. I run mine on 4s with a Hobbywing Max 8 ESC and Leopard 3670 2400kv motor. Love this buggy!

Edit: forgot to mention I also run 17mm hexes and buggy wheels/tires on it.

How do the stock shocks hold up with all that added weight? Must bottom out like crazy.

 

[parcou]

How do the stock shocks hold up with all that added weight? Must bottom out like crazy.

I'm not running 4S like that person and using the stock 12mm hex but I did change my battery tray to run the longer and bigger China Hobby 3S 6200mah 90C batteries.

It's a DB and not a jumper so if you keep that mindset that it belongs on the ground with a few hills or slight terrain jumps the stock shocks work good with the weight.

I did need to modify the shocks for my needs. When refilling the shock I did not make it a dead shock. I did leave it where it has a slight rebound 1/3 of the piston push back out. It's had to do since they have no bleeder hole to get 4 to evenly rebound the same way...takes time. Once done it looks like the DB floats over the ground!

 

[Hypnotoad]

Stock shocks hold up well. It’s only a 5000mAh 4s pack. The leopard motor and hobbywing max 8 esc aren’t much bigger than the stock electronics. I don’t jump, except for the occasional 3 ft jumps I’ll take with it running through dirt fields, grave, grass and the occasional baseball diamond.

 

[Maxx. D]

Just ordered the scte hinge pin blocks, found a good deal that got me all four for just the price of a set. I know it is lighter, stronger and adds adjustability. My question is how does the adjustments affect the way the car drives? Going from 0 degrees to .5 what is it going to change?

 

[Riko]

Finally some some snapshots of Losi after last Wednesdays hot run, 40 minutes in total, around 20 minutes first pack, than 17 minutes on the pack, is was his first real day outside after actually 10 months of gathering dust.

Very happy with my aluminum upgrades and the RPM bottom pieces front and rear.
Because I will try to upload some videos, with nice jumps but also some painful crashes

And today also got a motor fan, because in retrospect, it was perhaps not such a good idea to take a first go at temps above 30°C...
Engine temps were the worst, after some riding, I noticed them to be above the healthy 80°C...

So, fans are a must, and it took some adjustment work and fiddling to make it fit.
Much dremeling was needed.

Apparently it wasn't foreseen to fit a fan since everything is quite compact on that 1/10 chassis, but it worked!

The pics.

 

[Riko]

Only thing that irritates me is my Traxxas receiver box, its wobbling around and just held in place by the other components and a very small bit of double sided tapes that 'works' all the rest has failed.

Will have to find a solution for that, because that slight wobble also causes the receiver inside to move, wich in that case also has an influence on the AVC stability control since it reads the movement of the receiver itself.

 

[Riko]

the crashes

some jumps

haven't ridden in years, so quite happy that I picked up so fast, than again, this is an easy handling kit
AVC is on 50% steering with 100% priority

 

[Riko]

can somebody confirm if the front shock tower sits at an angle backwards?

I believe thats normal as the body posts wouldnt fit and the front bulkhead looks fine too, as does the chassis, nothing abnormal.

but just one some confirmation lol

thx!

 

[parcou]

can somebody confirm if the front shock tower sits at an angle backwards?
View attachment 234712

I believe thats normal as the body posts wouldnt fit and the front bulkhead looks fine too, as does the chassis, nothing abnormal.

but just one some confirmation lol

thx!

Yes Sir...

It does have an angle back added in a metal ruler to help see that as well

 

[Riko]

thanks a lot sir!

I did notice today that that same tower had a little bit of play: left-right....I first feared it was due to the crashing since its first seen a track
But after I tightened the 4 screws that hold it into place, it seems solid....those four screws were screwed in, but not thát tight

 

[Riko]

I noticed this from the start and I assume its so normal on these kind of cars in the budget they are in, that nobody bothers to correct this or make it perfect?

Talking about the play you have at the wheels, especially the fronts, where the hex meets the outer cup in the hubs:

 

[parcou]

I noticed this from the start and I assume its so normal on these kind of cars in the budget they are in, that nobody bothers to correct this or make it perfect?

Talking about the play you have at the wheels, especially the fronts, where the hex meets the outer cup in the hubs:

It is normal on all these rigs.... We add some shims behind the nut to remove the slop. Just want the right size shim or washer that rest on the rim of the bearing and not on the rubber shield to not eat it up.
@Riko

Took a pic... the rear, I have two shims but on the front, I have none... so I place them where I have that back/forth slop. They fit perfectly and rest on the inner rim of the bearing as well as over the axle shaft perfectly.

Edited one more...with the two shims on

 

[Riko]

aha, good to know and thanks again for the tip!

 

[Riko]

Managed to secure the Traxxas receiver box with some Sugru, will have to wait and see if and how long that will hold, but now its dry, the box is firm and secure in place.

Also, I was riding with toe-in all this time lol, now I managed to set up the buggy as it should: -2° camber all around, and 2° toe-out for the front (2° toe-in at the rear is fixed that way it seems) using an app and my smartphone as tool.

Had some xtreme rake as well, just liked the look of it, and now its kinda neutral, maybe with a slight rake angle.
Also adjusted the front springs to 10mm, before I had them at 5 or 6 mm (distance between the bottom of the cap and the top of the spring), I wanted the front to be a bit firmer.

Cant wait to see what the new adjustments will do about handling and tomorrow I'll upload those last riding vids with the Tekno's...

 

[Riko]

Here a summary of the last track day with those ex pro Dutch guys and their Tekno 1/8 buggys

 

[Riko]

shot my rear bulkhead and have to rebuild it

edit: no need for diff oil, the diff housing needs replacing, not the diff itself lol
pictures of the damage will follow, just looking into where to buy spares...

thx!