Thinking of picking up a Chevy Nova... again.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

MrTitanium

Speak softly and carry a big stick.
Messages
2,857
Reaction score
15,048
Arrma RC's
  1. BigRock
  2. BigRock 4x4
  3. Granite Grom
  4. Kraton EXB
  5. Nero
  6. Infraction 4x4
I don't have many regrets. Back in early 90's I sold my 67 Chevy II and 74 Nova as I had gotten sponsored and wasn't enjoying myself anymore. Dana 60... Glide, tubbed, 10 point cage and SBC in the '67. Ford 9", 10 point cage, street tub, M22 Rockcrusher, SBC in the '74.

Anyhow. I miss them dearly.

Local guy has a '72 for sale. Non-SS:

Engine:
- 327 (OEM small journaled steel crank (turned .010/.010),
- 2 bolt main, studded bottom end (ARP throughout), aftermarket steel rods,
- 11:1 compression, runs pump gas,
- 034 bowtie steel heads (ported by reputable local speed shop), Bowtie intake, Holley 650DP (naturally aspirated),
- Solid roller Comp Cam (don't remember the lift/duration),

Drivetrain:
- M22 Autogear main case and Italian gears (from Paul Cangialosi at 5speeds.com),
- Lakewood scattershield,
- Centerforce clutch,
- 10 bolt (mehhhhh), 456, aftermarket axles (35T Moser, I believe), no c-clip eliminator (yousa!)
- 1350 yokes with HD seamless tubing driveshaft, safety loop,
- Caltrac traction bar setup on mono-leaf springs.

Misc.:
- 2 door (doors close nicely/don't sag),
- No cage/rollbar.
- No frame connectors installed.
- New carpeting included, but not installed,
- No cracks on the dash,
- Reconditioned front bench seat,
- Line-loc, converted to front disc brakes (with 2" dropped spindles) and power steering,
- Car runs mid-11s @ 116. Respectable.

Asking $32k. Decisions... decisions.



1678666136109.png
 
Last edited:
Price sounds good depending on body condition.

Unless your planning on using it only for the track or puting around your local area then I think minimum you need to either switch the rear gears to something like 3.08-3.42 or swap in a 6 speed with over drive.

If it has a hefty cam then watch your vacuum pressure for your brakes. If it's low then I would swap the master out for an electric boosted one.

Also remember to check the lash on the solid lifters at least once a year.

How was this running 11s without frame connectors?
Would definitely install a set of those plus some traction bars if it doesn't have already.


On a side note I'm planning on selling my hot rod project car for a pretty low price in the spring. If your think you might be interested pm me.
 
Last edited:
Try 22k. Is this from a shop? If so get them to put the frame together. That unibody will twist..I'm already seeing the spot welds pulled out from around the wheel arches..speaking of that 327. Get a stud girdle, 11:1 mechanical lifters, solid push rods, fact. Forged crank+rods, Mallory (give yourself a heart attack) magneto, o.g hillborn intake and fuels system. I think we had heads from a 302 on it aswell. 2 SPD power glide. Worked well considering valve float came in around 11k. Mid lift cam and super tight valve springs. 8.99 @ 136 . Any faster would have to change the cage....being a 1964 chassis built in Bakersfield, couldn't do it. Sold

download.jpeg

Want more pics?
 
Can't believe someone would go thru all that and stick with a c-clip 10 bolt lol... other than that, sounds Iike a nice combo. I grew up at the dragstrip, my old man ran a '67 ss/rs Camaro, 12:1 468 with a tunnel ram, 400th and a 12 bolt, car ran consistent 9.40s and as a kid, it was the most amazing sound I had ever heard when that thing was sitting at the line on the 2 step and he cut it loose, makes the hair on my neck stand up just thinking about... "old chevys never die, they just go faster". I say do it, you only live once and every day is a gift, ya can't take the money with you anyways😎
 
Last edited:
Can't believe someone would go thru all that and stick with a c-clip 10 bolt lol... other than that, sounds Iike a nice combo. I grew up at the dragstrip, my old man ran a '67 ss/rs Camaro, 12:1 468 with a tunnel ram, 400th and a 12 bolt, car ran consistent 9.40s and as a kid, it was the most amazing sound I had ever heard when that thing was sitting at the line on the 2 step and he cut it loose, makes the hair on my neck stand up just thinking about... "old chevys never die, they just go faster". I say do do it, you only live once and every day is a gift, ya can't take the money with you anyways😎

When I asked the guy about the diff,

he said, “10 bolt… 456…”.
I said, “Sh!t… ok. C-clip eliminator at least??”
“Nah… I know how to drive it”

I saw his videos and he doesn’t powershift. Ever. I asked him why and he said, “Cause I have to take it easy on the diff or I’ll lose an axle”.

So, I’m thinking that first thing would be dropping a small fortune on a Currie Ford 9”… that huge meatball diff sitting under my ‘74 looked right at home. Not fond of Chevy diffs. Dana60 is way too heavy.
ive had a 70 nova 350 and a 72 ss 327 i wouldn't pay 32k but that's just me
I agree that the price is very high. That’s why I’m still on the fence.
 
First car was a 75 nova. Not my favorite year but still love all novas. Wanna say it had a small 8, 262ci if I remember correctly.
 
Try 22k. Is this from a shop? If so get them to put the frame together. That unibody will twist..I'm already seeing the spot welds pulled out from around the wheel arches..speaking of that 327. Get a stud girdle, 11:1 mechanical lifters, solid push rods, fact. Forged crank+rods, Mallory (give yourself a heart attack) magneto, o.g hillborn intake and fuels system. I think we had heads from a 302 on it aswell. 2 SPD power glide. Worked well considering valve float came in around 11k. Mid lift cam and super tight valve springs. 8.99 @ 136 . Any faster would have to change the cage....being a 1964 chassis built in Bakersfield, couldn't do it. Sold
Oh… I know that frame needs to be connected ASAP. I was surprised when he (private seller, not a shop) told me it wasn’t. Unibody twist like Coke cans when dropping the clutch at 6000 on slicks.
 
I was going to say he must be easy on that thing when he launches or he's really quick/good at changing shafts lol... the old man's car was a narrowed 12 bolt with good shafts and no c clips turning 15" wide tires with roughly 750hp, held up great
 
Price sounds good depending on body condition.

Unless your planning on using it only for the track or puting around your local area then I think minimum you need to either switch the rear gears to something like 3.08-3.42 or swap in a 6 speed with over drive.

If it has a hefty cam then watch your vacuum pressure for your brakes. If it's low then I would swap the master out for an electric boosted one.

Also remember to check the lash on the solid lifters at least once a year.

How was this running 11s without frame connectors?
Would definitely install a set of those plus some traction bars if it doesn't have already.


On a side note I'm planning on selling my hot rod project car for a pretty low price in the spring. If your think you might be interested pm me.
Nah… 456 is manageable for me. No issue with vacuum as cam installed is mild (114 255/262 @ .050 and .576 lift).

No need for traction bars as Caltracs are installed.

9D56A67B-A105-4CBE-994B-DAF4B67177BE.jpeg
 
Then there’s this local guy selling a ‘75.

408CID. Full cage. Glide. 12 bolt. No papers so cannot be run on the street… strictly drag. Not crazy about the year, to be honest, and it has to be street-legal (Canadian automotive laws suck).

$18k


B0904B68-703E-4D53-9088-DEDF0AB12616.jpeg


4C4D27A3-C0E2-4FF7-87AF-8EF7AD39FD7F.jpeg


BE0351B5-1A0E-42BC-B17E-DB7FDB0863D3.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I don't have many regrets. Back in early 90's I sold my 67 Chevy II and 74 Nova as I had gotten sponsored and wasn't enjoying myself anymore. Dana 60... Glide, tubbed, 10 point cage and SBC in the '67. Ford 9", 10 point cage, street tub, M22 Rockcrusher, SBC in the '74.

Anyhow. I miss them dearly.

Local guy has a '72 for sale. Non-SS:

Engine:
- 327 (OEM small journaled steel crank (turned .010/.010),
- 2 bolt main, studded bottom end (ARP throughout), aftermarket steel rods,
- 11:1 compression, runs pump gas,
- 034 bowtie steel heads (ported by reputable local speed shop), Bowtie intake, Holley 650DP (naturally aspirated),
- Solid roller Comp Cam (don't remember the lift/duration),

Drivetrain:
- M22 Autogear main case and Italian gears (from Paul Cangialosi at 5speeds.com),
- Lakewood scattershield,
- Centerforce clutch,
- 10 bolt (mehhhhh), 456, aftermarket axles (35T Moser, I believe), no c-clip eliminator (yousa!)
- 1350 yokes with HD seamless tubing driveshaft, safety loop,
- Caltrac traction bar setup on mono-leaf springs.

Misc.:
- 2 door (doors close nicely/don't sag),
- No cage/rollbar.
- No frame connectors installed.
- New carpeting included, but not installed,
- No cracks on the dash,
- Reconditioned front bench seat,
- Line-loc, converted to front disc brakes (with 2" dropped spindles) and power steering,
- Car runs mid-11s @ 116. Respectable.

Asking $32k. Decisions... decisions.



View attachment 284968
I would never get rid on mine.

Screenshot_20170621-192831.png
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top