Kraton Those expensive fans - is it worth it.

[slick2500]

Yes with the others above, the aluminum fans are worth it. If you're breaking fan blades from rocks (or as it happened in my case, wires), then you need to do something to protect the fan blades like using screen mesh or a fan cover.

FWIW, i saw these on amazon just recently. It looks to be your standard, generic, 16000rpm 40mm fans for a good price.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FLXHD82

I bought 3 of those fans a few months ago, I only have 1 left because the blades broke off. All 3 had covers on them so I know it wasn't rocks.

All good advice above.... find what you like.

For me, it is about planning and fans are in my build plan. Rigs that have a low body like the Typhon TLR limit me to the smaller fan but 40mm. I have a temp prob on all my rigs to see active temps. Those fans work great on the TLR.

When it comes to the Talion it has a low body and took some planning to get a 40mm tall fan in there but did find a way about that build. I'm impressed with the fans because while bashing I can see the active temps so pleased to see how well they do over the stock stuff. Even if one stopped, it will be replaced.

TLR low-profile
View attachment 304206


Talion EXB low body
View attachment 304207
View attachment 304208

I just saw this https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-4...&pd_rd_r=599a3d27-0885-4157-be9f-43b758af612e then realized we could do the same thing but for voltage.

 

[Hector_Fisher]

I bought 3 of those fans a few months ago, I only have 1 left because the blades broke off. All 3 had covers on them so I know it wasn't rocks.


I just saw this https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-4...&pd_rd_r=599a3d27-0885-4157-be9f-43b758af612e then realized we could do the same thing but for voltage.

It wouldn't surprise me if the thinner fans don't stand up to shock loads as well.

The thicker server style fans have more meat connecting the blades to the center, so it would follow that they would hold on longer.

 

[Relimar]

Homemade.... I stole the idea from Jae-Tee from one of his videos on his Limitless. Amazon temp probs and used those to place on the motor to get temps.

I did the same. On my HW ESC, I JB Weld it to the ESC. On the motor, I use thermal tape on the back of the motor. But @Tex Koder created a holder for me for the 36mm motor, but waiting on one for the 40mm motor then the tape will not be needed. Now it is not exact I am aware of that no different from a temp gun. I never see this happen...but if temps were going over 170F motor and 150F ESC I can stop bashing... easy check to drive it by me and look and keep bashing. Works great for me...maybe not others.

Temp probs here


View attachment 304218


View attachment 304214

That's friggin awesome. so useful

 

[SrC]

Homemade.... I stole the idea from Jae-Tee from one of his videos on his Limitless. Amazon temp probs and used those to place on the motor to get temps.

I did the same. On my HW ESC, I JB Weld it to the ESC. On the motor, I use thermal tape on the back of the motor. But @Tex Koder created a holder for me for the 36mm motor, but waiting on one for the 40mm motor then the tape will not be needed. Now it is not exact I am aware of that no different from a temp gun. I never see this happen...but if temps were going over 170F motor and 150F ESC I can stop bashing... easy check to drive it by me and look and keep bashing. Works great for me...maybe not others.

Temp probs here

View attachment 304213
View attachment 304218


View attachment 304214View attachment 304215
View attachment 304217

You don't play around... nice setups you have there..
You got this down to a science...

The biggest issue with aluminum structure fans is the fragile light gauge wiring while bashing constantly bending the strands eventually severing.

I glue the exit from the board bottom/heat shrink and ensure no sharp turns in routing, several heavy bash rigs have over a year on rocket/knockoff manufacturer alloy fans. Only had to replace plastic housings on dozens of total fan applications.

I sometimes use Wire braiding over the Fan wires, with good results. Usually always with a solder connector job, I do this. Its easier to cover the wires this way. 1/8" braiding.

 

[SrC]

All good advice above.... find what you like.

For me, it is about planning and fans are in my build plan. Rigs that have a low body like the Typhon TLR limit me to the smaller fan but 40mm. I have a temp prob on all my rigs to see active temps. Those fans work great on the TLR.

When it comes to the Talion it has a low body and took some planning to get a 40mm tall fan in there but did find a way about that build. I'm impressed with the fans because while bashing I can see the active temps so pleased to see how well they do over the stock stuff. Even if one stopped, it will be replaced.

TLR low-profile
View attachment 304206


Talion EXB low body
View attachment 304207
View attachment 304208

Really nice Tally there.

 

[RC-Dude]

@parcou - thanks for your input.

I made some mounts for

• XMaxx
• XRT
• Street Mojave
• Felony on rear tower. (open small hole in body to see from the outside)
• Might add a mount for the Kraton 8s but I think that should be visible from outside. Not sure yet. Want to make sure it fits more than one body type. Stock and 1956 Ford Proline without adjustments.

XRT and XMaxx bodies are easily removed without so I figured the displays might stay inside.
Felony and Street Mojave do run pretty hot and too often I did not take the temperature gun along.
All printed in TPU. Display fits nice and tight that way. Here on Thingiverse.

Street Mojave (think too exposed for a basher):

Felony, pretty hidden from the outside. Just need to file the edges nicer:

X-Maxx:

XRT (where I put the switch would also work with the XMaxx mount:

 

[parcou]

@parcou - thanks for your input.

I made some mounts for

• XMaxx
• XRT
• Street Mojave
• Felony on rear tower. (open small hole in body to see from the outside)
• Might add a mount for the Kraton 8s but I think that should be visible from outside. Not sure yet. Want to make sure it fits more than one body type. Stock and 1956 Ford Proline without adjustments.

XRT and XMaxx bodies are easily removed without so I figured the displays might stay inside.
Felony and Street Mojave do run pretty hot and too often I did not take the temperature gun along.
All printed in TPU. Display fits nice and tight that way. Here on Thingiverse.

Street Mojave (think too exposed for a basher):

View attachment 305739

Felony, pretty hidden from the outside. Just need to file the edges nicer:

View attachment 305740

View attachment 305744


X-Maxx:
View attachment 305741

XRT (where I put the switch would also work with the XMaxx mount:
View attachment 305742

Man!!!

Those mounts are so cool...which I could 3D print. Never thought of asking Tex or anyone for some of those. Better than the E6000 I am using. Well done looks good!

 

[slick2500]

Man!!!

Those mounts are so cool...which I could 3D print. Never thought of asking Tex or anyone for some of those. Better than the E6000 I am using. Well done looks good!

There are so many times I wish I had a 3d printer.

 

[RC-Dude]

Printing is in many ways totally overrated. Quality of surface is dismal. Many materials can't stand heat. Most materials can't handle shock.
But in our case with RC cars it may make sense to get a simple printer. So much free stuff around and with a few hours on tinkercad training you can design simple stuff like above. A direct extruder make sense with RC cars as TPU is a material that can handle beeing on a hot brushless motor and can handle shock RC car treatment. A bowden extruder (the filament is pushed instead of pulled) does work with TPU but the surface is not so nice.

Bowden printing with TPU is a bit like a guy who is pulling rope behind himself on the road. Someone comes up and asks why he is pulling the rope. He says:" Tried to push it but it doesn't work so well."

On the other hand - a simple roof rail that actually works well - printed on a 3D printer, I have not found a material that convinces me. PETG and PLA just burst on impact. Nylon I have not tried - too smelly. TPU might work but does not really skid on pavement. Printing suspension arms - not found a good material yet that even remotely matches the stock Arrma suspension arms.

I you don't like the process of learning to print, failures etc. - don't do it. There is a learning curve and comes with some frustration at times when you try to figure out settings in a slicer.

 

[Evil Jim]

I you don't like the process of learning to print, failures etc. - don't do it. There is a learning curve and comes with some frustration at times when you try to figure out settings in a slicer.

I was looking into printing again, recently...it having been many years since the first time, when the idea of hobby/enthusiast printing first hit the scene...and the best summation of 3D printing I came across was the distinction between it being a tool, versus a hobby.

Think of an RC car...especially a nitro...compared to a hex driver.

Someone who is expecting to simply "buy a printer and make stuff" (buying a tool) is likely to be disappointed, frustrated...and maybe really annoyed...at "wasting their money" in the end. Because what they really bought, was an introduction to another hobby.

While there have been strides made, it's just not quite there yet.

EJ

 

[SrC]

Yes!

That is the one. There could be better, but it works well for me. At the end of the power wire, I cut it off. Then I take a JST end if I am using a y-splitter or JR connection if I plug it in the receiver and solder it on. When I build a rig, it is in the planning for lights, fans, etc. For each rig, I power differently depending on the layout and placement.

Once I have an end on it, it gets power from the RC. My goal with these is not to know the EXACT temp yet to know when I am going into a danger zone with heat for my ESC/Motor and I can stop. Compared to bashing it and not knowing the motor is 200F and the ESC 210F. Or bashing it too long before bringing it back to check temps. Or, the pain of taking to the body on/off.

Does this Only give you Centigrade degrees?
Is this switchable to F. degrees?

 

[parcou]

Does this Only give you Centigrade degrees?
Is this switchable to F. degrees?

Yes, it is changeable and mine reads F. Just remove the dip switch plug

 

[RC-Dude]

Very impressed with the taller fans - thanks for the input! 15kv at 12V so about 7000 - 8000kv at 6V and 7,2V.

Also very happy with the temperature sensor setup. Temperature got to max 52deg C at outside temp of about 17deg C in Kraton 8s. XRT at max 43 deg C.

34,8 deg Celcius motor temp.
43,6 deg Celcius ESC.

 

[SrC]

Yes, it is changeable and mine reads F. Just remove the dip switch plug

This a must have. I was using an OG MIP Nitro engine Temp guage for mine, tuned to keep my motor engine at 200F-212F steadily and also tried it on my Electric motors. It is not available any longer from MIP. Mounted externally visible like you did. I just may have to buy several of them for my Hot setups.
Geat idea!
I'm following you now.

 

[parcou]

Very impressed with the taller fans - thanks for the input! 15kv at 12V so about 7000 - 8000kv at 6V and 7,2V.

Also very happy with the temperature sensor setup. Temperature got to max 52deg C at outside temp of about 17deg C in Kraton 8s. XRT at max 43 deg C.

34,8 deg Celcius motor temp.
43,6 deg Celcius ESC.
View attachment 306373

At a glance works so well. Like that setup with those Amazon gauges and your 3D mount is so sweet!

@SrC feel ya anything that helps keep an eye on temps actively is a win!

 

[ColosTommy]

That's a great idea @parcou . Love it.
Think i might steal this idea and make a couple for my rig

 

[RC-Dude]

Yes, very helpful on the Street Mojave.