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What happened to yours? Never thought those could fail.
You can get them here, and you get the hexes as a bonus
https://jennysrc.com/products/arrma...s-16-5mm-adaptors-outcast-kraton-red-ar106014
That’s easier done for the pins in the diff cups as they are 2.25. The hub pin is 2.5 and it allowed for minor slop. And I don’t have a local source for the numbered drill bits to find one of thoseMeasure the length and diameter and cut down a drill bit. Haven't tried it, but heard a lot of people do.
That’s because you also need the Kraton/Outcast hubs. They are wider to fit the longer knuckleI didn’t remember reading anywhere that I needed to add shims between the knuckle and the wheel hex
I bought the outcast hubs, outcast outer shafts, I noticed that they could move in just enough to let the pin go. I'll take the one side a part and take picsThat’s because you also need the Kraton/Outcast hubs. They are wider to fit the longer knuckle
Thanks for that!!!You can find 2.5mm dia. steel (or SS) rod on Amazon and make your own.
I noticed the issue when I cycled the arm up and down and decided to add the washers to keep some of the slop out and possibly loosing a pinThat’s because you also need the Kraton/Outcast hubs. They are wider to fit the longer knuckle
Not the hex pin, cvs pin Look at the pics with and without the washers you will see that without the washers the cvs pin can fall outOh, you’re talking about the CVD pin maybe? All this time I was sure you are talking about the hex pin
Frig. Duh..... as soon as I read it that hit me. Since it’s just under 1/4” gain total I might just stick with using the Typhon hexes. Thanks for the infoOk.
So that’s because you’re using the typhon hexes (part #AR310447) and not the wider hexes which are part #AR310484. They are 2.9mm wider.
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