Kraton V4 Upgrade Fails (due to inexperience)! HELP Request

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Best case is the cracking will be gone but I won't be able to point to anything as the culprit. Worst case is the cracking will still be there and I won't have a clue about what to try next.
If you can, take some video of it so we can hear it. Might help with diagnosing.

I had a heck of a time recently with my wife explaining an issue with her car via text. She leaves for work before I do and she sent me a text saying the car started slow. After 7 back and forth texts, I still didn't know if she meant the time between when she turned the key and the starter motor started spinning or if the engine was turning over, but taking abnormally long to start. Even talking with her about it for 30 minutes after I got home from work... still no clue what it was she experienced, other than it's been fine since. Regardless, the end result is I have an uneasy feeling about it as does she because whatever it was is no longer present.

But, if I had heard it myself, then I'd at least have a better idea what the possibilities were.
 
I did take a video last night before I removed the front end. I did too much yapping at the beginning, but I guess the only way to post videos to here is to put it on YT then share the link?
 
Here's the edited video from yesterday. Thanks for any advice.
Huh. Now I want to take my outcast outside and see what it sounds like. lol!

I'm not hearing the popping I've heard on mine when the pinion is hopping teeth on the ring gear. It's a much more pronounced POP POP POP under heavy braking (front, usually)/acceleration (rear, usually). To me, yours just sounds like it doesn't have any grease on the ring/pinion and they are spinning dry with the sound being just metal on metal. You hear it more on acceleration because your front tires are lifting and spinning in the air (losing traction) as that is where your center diff is sending the power.

Then you picked up the rear and pushed/pulled it on the ground, then the front and pushed/pulled it on the ground...

I think I'd drive it as it is and ignore the noise until it catastrophically fails... whatever it is. Unless someone else can point you in a direction.
 
Huh. Now I want to take my outcast outside and see what it sounds like. lol!

I'm not hearing the popping I've heard on mine when the pinion is hopping teeth on the ring gear. It's a much more pronounced POP POP POP under heavy braking (front, usually)/acceleration (rear, usually). To me, yours just sounds like it doesn't have any grease on the ring/pinion and they are spinning dry with the sound being just metal on metal. You hear it more on acceleration because your front tires are lifting and spinning in the air (losing traction) as that is where your center diff is sending the power.

Then you picked up the rear and pushed/pulled it on the ground, then the front and pushed/pulled it on the ground...

I think I'd drive it as it is and ignore the noise until it catastrophically fails... whatever it is. Unless someone else can point you in a direction.
I'll post another video once I get her put back together with the new bearings.
When I was pulling the bushings (#&@$ bushings!?!?) from the bell crank the one under the servo saver was locked in place and didn't budge at all...had to pry it out with a Phillips. That's probably not right. Oh well, replacing with a bearing so see what difference that makes.
 
I'll post another video once I get her put back together with the new bearings.
When I was pulling the bushings (#&@$ bushings!?!?) from the bell crank the one under the servo saver was locked in place and didn't budge at all...had to pry it out with a Phillips. That's probably not right. Oh well, replacing with a bearing so see what difference that makes.
Yeah, replacing those with bearings was something I did before I ran my outcast. Crazy that they have bushings this day in age.
 
Any shims recommended at crown gear? Put the cup back on and it's very tight no play between gear and cup. With fast Eddy bearings the crown gear spins much easier. After a quick spin by hand (fingers) it'll free spin about 1/2 rotation. With stock bearings it stopped immediately.
 
I know, I've been reluctant/lazy but have found it's not as difficult as I thought once I start...what really bothers me is I think I like wrenching too much, especially when it results in a positive solution. Freud's anal retention theory comes to mind for some erotic reason...??

So I got it apart and replacing bearings. Still not seeing what may be causing the cracking as nothing seems broken. However I'm curious about the center see pic. It looks like exposed ball bearings. They look fine just curious if they can be replaced??View attachment 38789
That cracking sound you heard, might have been the metal shield that's supposed to be on that bearing. @bicketybam noticed it too. If the shield came free, it might have got chewed up by the pinion and crown gear. Should be good to go with the new sealed bearings.
 
That cracking sound you heard, might have been the metal shield that's supposed to be on that bearing. @bicketybam noticed it too. If the shield came free, it might have got chewed up by the pinion and crown gear. Should be good to go with the new sealed bearings.
Anyone have a picture handy of the shield? Or I can wait until I rebuild my diffs on the Typhon, Noto and Outcast...work work work.
The bearings did have a "wavey" shield that fit directly on top of the bearings just inside the casing. Hard to see in my pic. Could that be the shield?
 
Anyone have a picture handy of the shield? Or I can wait until I rebuild my diffs on the Typhon, Noto and Outcast...work work work.
The bearings did have a "wavey" shield that fit directly on top of the bearings just inside the casing. Hard to see in my pic. Could that be the shield?
The bearing is supposed to look like this:

20190521_123242.jpg
 
Unfortunately it's the same way on both sides. The shield must have came off and gotten chewed up.
I agree, which is actually good news for me as far as figuring out what was causing the cracking noise. Hopefully it's resolved and I'll have my old Kraton back. Thanks!!
 
Took a picture of the front end before I took it out. Notice anything missing? No grease!! The rear had some, but not the front.

Front:

IMG_20190510_210458638.jpg


Rear:

IMG_20190511_154141919.jpg
 
Update:
Got Kyosho shims in and put the front end back together with plenty Grim Racer grease and Fast Eddy bearings everywhere. I decided while I've got the Kraton "in the shop" I'd go ahead and upgrade the rear bearings. Much simpler to open up. PROBLEM: Arrma loktited the snot on the set screw for the cup on the main drive. I was able to get it out but the darn cup is "welded" to the crown gear shaft...it won't budge. I hit with break cleaner and waited hoping it would break down the LT and pried and pulled with flat head and pliers with no joy! I mean it won't budge! The front cup was tight but was able to pry it off. Any tricks on getting that thing off?!?
I inspected the bearing and I can see the cover on the bearing and haven't had any issues with the rear. just wanted to upgrade the bearings. If there isn't a trick and I can't get it off I'll just put it back together and start bashing her again...it's been too long! Any help is much appreciated!
 
Update:
Got Kyosho shims in and put the front end back together with plenty Grim Racer grease and Fast Eddy bearings everywhere. I decided while I've got the Kraton "in the shop" I'd go ahead and upgrade the rear bearings. Much simpler to open up. PROBLEM: Arrma loktited the snot on the set screw for the cup on the main drive. I was able to get it out but the darn cup is "welded" to the crown gear shaft...it won't budge. I hit with break cleaner and waited hoping it would break down the LT and pried and pulled with flat head and pliers with no joy! I mean it won't budge! The front cup was tight but was able to pry it off. Any tricks on getting that thing off?!?
I inspected the bearing and I can see the cover on the bearing and haven't had any issues with the rear. just wanted to upgrade the bearings. If there isn't a trick and I can't get it off I'll just put it back together and start bashing her again...it's been too long! Any help is much appreciated!
Heat, heat and heat. Then punch the pinion out with a punch or appreciate sized screwdriver. I use a mini torch. Always heat loctited screws and the like.
 
Update:
Got Kyosho shims in and put the front end back together with plenty Grim Racer grease and Fast Eddy bearings everywhere. I decided while I've got the Kraton "in the shop" I'd go ahead and upgrade the rear bearings. Much simpler to open up. PROBLEM: Arrma loktited the snot on the set screw for the cup on the main drive. I was able to get it out but the darn cup is "welded" to the crown gear shaft...it won't budge. I hit with break cleaner and waited hoping it would break down the LT and pried and pulled with flat head and pliers with no joy! I mean it won't budge! The front cup was tight but was able to pry it off. Any tricks on getting that thing off?!?
I inspected the bearing and I can see the cover on the bearing and haven't had any issues with the rear. just wanted to upgrade the bearings. If there isn't a trick and I can't get it off I'll just put it back together and start bashing her again...it's been too long! Any help is much appreciated!
I had to hit mine with a torch to get it to come off the diff pinion on my rear diff. I just used a small pencil torch directly on the side of the cup so I wasn't blowing heat all over the place. Once well heated (not red hot, just hot), the locktite smokes and was able to back the screw out and pull the cup off easily.
 
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