Vorteks Vorteks Boost unboxing and build thread šŸ˜

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Wooo hooo front arms and composite links came happy days get these fitted tonight I think šŸ¤”

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Wooo hooo front arms and composite links came happy days get these fitted tonight I think šŸ¤”

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Staying with stock rear arms if I remember right? Hope so. RPM arms, especially the longer typhon/big rock ones, warp badly. The rears are the worst so I went back to stock for those on a couple of my cars. Fronts are not as bad but they still warp.

They can be swapped left to right or boiled if real badā€¦but I havenā€™t bothered to try either. They just start to bend again in a matter of weeks. Make sure to keep your car wheels up when not running. I use foam yoga blocks and small boxes. Iā€™m sure it helps some to reduce the issue. The stock ones will also eventually start to warp, but it takes months rather than weeks.

I have an all stock ā€˜parts binā€™ Typhon that I recently put together and used my last set of new RPM arms. Itā€™s 5-6 weeks old with around 25 runs. Iā€™ve not jumped it at all, just ground bashing. The rears are definitely beginning to bow and the fronts just slightly. It doesnā€™t significantly affect handling far as I can tell but it does reduce ground clearance as they get worse.

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Staying with stock rear arms if I remember right? Hope so. RPM arms, especially the longer typhon/big rock ones, warp badly. The rears are the worst so I went back to stock for those on a couple of my cars. Fronts are not as bad but they still warp.

They can be swapped left to right or boiled if real badā€¦but I havenā€™t bothered to try either. They just start to bend again in a matter of weeks. Make sure to keep your car wheels up when not running. I use foam yoga blocks and small boxes. Iā€™m sure it helps some to reduce the issue. The stock ones will also eventually start to warp, but it takes months rather than weeks.

I have an all stock ā€˜parts binā€™ Typhon that I recently put together and used my last set of new RPM arms. Itā€™s 5-6 weeks old with around 25 runs. Iā€™ve not jumped it at all, just ground bashing. The rears are definitely beginning to bow and the fronts just slightly. It doesnā€™t significantly affect handling far as I can tell but it does reduce ground clearance as they get worse.

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That's right buddy stock Typhon rears and RPM front . Thanks for the heads up as I was contemplating aluminium C Hubs but might just leave those standard now .
Any suggestions on which front bumper to use also as the Vorteks bumper isn't great and was toying with a few but can't make my mind up .
 
That's right buddy stock Typhon rears and RPM front . Thanks for the heads up as I was contemplating aluminium C Hubs but might just leave those standard now .
Any suggestions on which front bumper to use also as the Vorteks bumper isn't great and was toying with a few but can't make my mind up .
Sure thing man. Stock Granite bumper is good and much more solid then the Vorteks bumper.

If I was to try anything alloy with the suspension it would be front hub carriers as I break those most. But then the shock will just travel and take out the c hub or arm. So I keep all the suspension parts, arms etc stock except for 6s shocks (way better) and Traxxas turnbuckles from the Rustler or slash (way stronger and have metal balls).
 
Sure thing man. Stock Granite bumper is good and much more solid then the Vorteks bumper.

If I was to try anything alloy with the suspension it would be front hub carriers as I break those most. But then the shock will just travel and take out the c hub or arm. So I keep all the suspension parts, arms etc stock except for 6s shocks (way better) and Traxxas turnbuckles from the Rustler or slash (way stronger and have metal balls).
Awesome stuff buddy thanks for the idea .
Would you change the rear hub carriers for alloy as well ??
 
Awesome stuff buddy thanks for the idea .
Would you change the rear hub carriers for alloy as well ??
Iā€™ve never really broke any on the rear, mostly just wear out eventually. Without the plastic flex Iā€™d be worried of breaking an arm. Other upgrades Iā€™ve done are m2c motor mount/braces, 130amp spectrum escs, larger can motors (3670, 3674 and 4068), rear metal diffs, hot racing diff yokes. Not to all my cars though. Iā€™ve kept a couple light with mostly stock parts for fun and jumping. When you add metal to these cars you add weight which leads to more breakage. It also changes how they drive. The ones that have all the heavier upgrades are mostly ground bashers built for speed, low natural jumps and tearing up the dirt.
 
Iā€™ve never really broke any on the rear, mostly just wear out eventually. Without the plastic flex Iā€™d be worried of breaking an arm. Other upgrades Iā€™ve done are m2c motor mount/braces, 130amp spectrum escs, larger can motors (3670, 3674 and 4068), rear metal diffs, hot racing diff yokes. Not to all my cars though. Iā€™ve kept a couple light with mostly stock parts for fun and jumping. When you add metal to these cars you add weight which leads to more breakage. It also changes how they drive. The ones that have all the heavier upgrades are mostly ground bashers built for speed, low natural jumps and tearing up the dirt.
Thanks for some suggestions buddy I really appreciate it.
Just going to work out what to do next with it .
I definitely think a motor mount is a good suggestion as I do want to add a larger motor when I add the front diff etc .
 
Thanks for some suggestions buddy I really appreciate it.
Just going to work out what to do next with it .
I definitely think a motor mount is a good suggestion as I do want to add a larger motor when I add the front diff etc .
Go slow. Get the car to a certain point and enjoy it for a while. Youā€™ll figure out the direction you want to go. Donā€™t put too much money into it right off. Somebody said once on the forum a year or more back; ā€˜Everybody here has spent an exorbitant amount of money on their cars and want you to as well.ā€™
Itā€™s somewhat true šŸ˜‚
 
What a great thread! Looking good!

How are you liking that Surpass 80A ESC?
Hey buddy thanks and yes it's so far great no issues at all , I've got a surpass programming card that should be here any day now so I'll be able to fine tune it .
But as for the 80amp yeah no issues , it seems punchy and braking seems decent , and for the money it's hard to say no as company's like hobbywing are so expensive to start off with .
Remember though should you get the surpass your also going to need a receiver.
 
Hey buddy thanks and yes it's so far great no issues at all , I've got a surpass programming card that should be here any day now so I'll be able to fine tune it .
But as for the 80amp yeah no issues , it seems punchy and braking seems decent , and for the money it's hard to say no as company's like hobbywing are so expensive to start off with .
Remember though should you get the surpass your also going to need a receiver.
Ok so tested the car this morning with one of my batteries out in the street and one thing I've noticed is that the amount of front camber was unacceptable for me .
I've go no issues with the toe out but front camber with the composite links wasn't good , so came back in the house and wrenched again .
So now I've installed the adjustable turnbuckles for the camber and now running -1 on front seems much more stable and progressive on turning in .
Just waiting on my batteries now to finish charging before I go out for a bash at my local park .
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Mud is fun but plays havoc with bearings and just a little water in the wrong spot can kill the esc. Looks like you had a blast though man! Make sure to clean it up and get those bearings dry or theyā€™ll get crunchy.
Hey buddy , yes I did it took ages to get it clean mind and some elbow grease but it's not finally had to take some parts out to get it all out mind šŸ¤¦ā€ā™‚ļøšŸ¤¦ā€ā™‚ļøšŸ¤¦ā€ā™‚ļøšŸ¤¦ā€ā™‚ļø. And they used a soft cloth and sprayed some WD40 on the cloth and wiped the whole car down missing any bearings etc , then used some Avid bearing oil on the bearings .
I'm quite OCD with stuff like that anyways and happy to strip a car to clean it , little habit I picked up from racing when we did weekenders.
Ok so today's

Finally My new GPM 7mm width by 12mm diameter hexes came today so I was able to now finally fit my new Proline Trenchers LP 28 M2 .
Got to say love the look of these on the Vorteks Boost and should definitely give me some much better traction. šŸ˜Žā¤ļøā¤ļøā¤ļøā¤ļø

Bonus note the Dboot Katrars are not good at all in my opinion and wear out way to fast last picture is only after a months use.

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Hey Chris, I enjoyed looking your build! You did a lot of improvements! I (re)started with the hobby two years ago and started tuning to brushless my 1/10 SCT(s). One on 4x4 with a Surpass 120A combo with 3674 2200KV (max 6S! but it took too many crashes) an on 4x2 80A and 3660 4300KV (I think). Both have been working good but I havenĀ“t been playing more than 5% of what you have already I think xD xD. The only thing was that the 3660 has no cooling fan because itĀ“s in the rear (of the axle) and there is no place. It goes quite hot but I havenĀ“t ran it for hours either. I did not change the receiver, I just changed the plug from the ESC. Was that your problem?

Your Vorteks looks insane with that new wheels! Great the amount of work you put in by improving and cleaning! :D
Ahh, and 4x2 with brushless and big pinion is indeed really difficult to drive in loose terrain. I upgraded some Spektrum with AVC. Before I also changed the back differential to fixed (for crawlers) but it broke.
 
Hey buddy , yes I did it took ages to get it clean mind and some elbow grease but it's not finally had to take some parts out to get it all out mind šŸ¤¦ā€ā™‚ļøšŸ¤¦ā€ā™‚ļøšŸ¤¦ā€ā™‚ļøšŸ¤¦ā€ā™‚ļø. And they used a soft cloth and sprayed some WD40 on the cloth and wiped the whole car down missing any bearings etc , then used some Avid bearing oil on the bearings .
I'm quite OCD with stuff like that anyways and happy to strip a car to clean it , little habit I picked up from racing when we did weekenders.
Ok so today's

Finally My new GPM 7mm width by 12mm diameter hexes came today so I was able to now finally fit my new Proline Trenchers LP 28 M2 .
Got to say love the look of these on the Vorteks Boost and should definitely give me some much better traction. šŸ˜Žā¤ļøā¤ļøā¤ļøā¤ļø

Bonus note the Dboot Katrars are not good at all in my opinion and wear out way to fast last picture is only after a months use.

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Your car is looking very nice man!

My favorite way to clean the bearings is to pull the rubber shields off each side using a new very sharp X-Acto blade point. Degrease and inspect them or throw them in my sonic cleaner if I have time, clean them up, put one of the shields back on and then fill it with no more than half of super lube grease. Iā€™ve seen some people fill a third fall and some 2/3 full I just do half. Point is to keep the seals from blowing and losing your grease.

I donā€™t bother doing this stock bearings. Just good ones I buy. Stock bearings are the ones I put in for running at the beach or something similar.

WD-40 is evil by the way for the most part with RC cars. Get yourself a good electronic contact cleaner and brake cleaner. Thatā€™s what you need for cleaning. And simple green. Superlube is my favorite for oil and grease lubricants. Itā€™s a mostly odorless, food grade synthetic silicone. Itā€™s really easy on plastics unlike lithium which better metal on metal I understand.

Everywhere something like that is needed I use superlube. Also I use a spray on dry silicon lube, like you would use on a bike chain in dry conditions, for plastic arm/pin connection or plastic things in other areas that get squeaky. Just a little. Doesnā€™t take much.
 
Well finally th rain stopped and wanted to try the car with the upgrades and then this bloody happened , so glad I've ordered the parts for the 0.8 mod and some new shocks also.
Fair shout the 48dp spur is like chocolate.
Also Schumacher pinions are total cack I've never seen a pinion wear like that on a composite spur before .
Lucky I've got spare until the new 0.8 spur and 32dp pinion comes

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Well after fixing the spur , we took the car to the skate park yesterday and had a great time , really enjoyed sending it to the moon it took it great , butttttttttttt !!!!!!!
We had a failure, nothing to do with the chassis or Arrma parts because I was very impressed with that .
But my 3m tape gave out on me on a landing and the ESC came loose !
Well the signal wire coming from the ESC cut and we'll luckily enough my neighbour is big in to his crawlers and is currently fixing it for me .

Also got the 0.8 mod gears on the way as I got fed up of replacing the 48dp 91tooth spur .
Hopefully this will totally improve it .

And got some ZD racing shocks coming also .
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Well after fixing the spur , we took the car to the skate park yesterday and had a great time , really enjoyed sending it to the moon it took it great , butttttttttttt !!!!!!!
We had a failure, nothing to do with the chassis or Arrma parts because I was very impressed with that .
But my 3m tape gave out on me on a landing and the ESC came loose !
Well the signal wire coming from the ESC cut and we'll luckily enough my neighbour is big in to his crawlers and is currently fixing it for me .

Also got the 0.8 mod gears on the way as I got fed up of replacing the 48dp 91tooth spur .
Hopefully this will totally improve it .

And got some ZD racing shocks coming also . View attachment 249345View attachment 249346
Sad to see, but it isnĀ“t too bad...
That grinded spur doesnĀ“t look good :S

Enjoy your repaired rocket :)
 
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