Kraton What Do I Gotta Do To Get A Pinion Gear To Last!?

[SrC]

What Do I Gotta Do To Get A Pinion Gear To Last!?​

What do you mean? Are they coming loose or are they just wearing quicker than you think they should. Your post does not tell us what your problem is. Why do you have to re-install them?

If it's coming loose, file a small flatspot onto the motor shaft where the grub screw sits when it's tightened if it doesn't have one?

+1
This....
There is something you are doing wrong there. Need to rethink your procedure.
I have never eaten any pinion, Stockers or any of my Teknos. Mine never come off or loosen. Has happened to all of at some point. But is very, very rare for me. I cant remember the last time it happened for me. And I only use Blue TL. The stocker pinions are garbage FWIW.
Pinions teeth can normally wear out at some point, faster if the mesh is set too loose. The smaller 11-13T pinions seem to wear out the fastest. Any pinion can get bricked if you run in the sand or pebbly areas. This chews up the Teeth.
As far as Grub screws... They are consumables at some point, Have spares on hand. Like @1coopgt stated above, grind a roughened flat spot in the Grub screw. I do this also. I've done this for years. It does work.
A good Hand hex driver is key for proper torque.
I hope you are not using the "L" wrenches!!!!!!!!!!
Will be a fail always.
>> I set my Pinion's Mesh always on the tighter side. For the greatest Tooth angle contact between the spur and Pinion.
Yet always with the slightest "Tick" of backlash.
Pinions and Grub screws and the Armatures Shaft "Flat" need to be very clean, for the TL to work well. Then let cure.
I use Blue 243 TL. It works around Oily screws better than Blue 242. But I still clean all very well. Using a torch will remove any old TL that remains.

>>>>Definitely grind down the Grub screw a bit before installing. Even better if you don't reuse the old grub screw after several removals. Or is questionable, because it loosened already. Have spares on hand.

 

[Daywalker_27]

I've never had one come loose.. I tighten the grubs with an L wrench and use the long side to crank it as hard as it will go without stripping it... I've had buddies use hand drivers and think they were tight... then have them come off... Not enough torque with just a handle..

A good Hand hex driver is key for proper torque.
I hope you are not using the "L" wrenches!!!!!!!!!!
Will be a fail always.

Seriously!?

I’ve been using hand tools all along, I’ve never tried using L wrenches. I’d use whatever one would work best, if we could come up with what works best here?

Definitely grind down the Grub screw a bit before installing. Even better if you don't reuse the old grub screw after several removals. Or is questionable, because it loosened already. Have spares on hand.

I have spares arriving by the mail.

 

[Boggs3010]

That could vary well be the problem, I’ve been setting up the mesh with the slightest amount of play but made sure there was in fact some play.

Too loose and you break teeth. The balancing game we play.

 

[Bustedaw11]

Seriously!?

I’ve been using hand tools all along, I’ve never tried using L wrenches. I’d use whatever one would work best, if we could come up with what works best here?

I have spares arriving by the mail.

We each have different ideas and methods for what works for us. I say L, @SrC Says not to use L. And that's okay.

So For Me-- I'm a mechanic and have sore wrists and pretty sure arthritis in my hands even though I'm 37.. been turning wrenches since I was 16. I have issues getting enough torque through a screwdriver handle to tighten them to a good torque.. by using the L its like putting a cheater pipe on the situation. Instead of just turning the handle I've got 6 inches of "cheater" I'm pulling on to multiply the torque..
My suggestion to use the L is based of yours coming loose. To me it seems obvious your having the same issue as me as far as getting enough torque to get it tight. I believe with the longer L you'll get it torqued more and maybe eliminate your issue.. make since?

 

[Daywalker_27]

To me it seems obvious your having the same issue as me as far as getting enough torque to get it tight. I believe with the longer L you'll get it torqued more and maybe eliminate your issue.. make since?

I’ve got quite a few good suggestions here to my issue. After checking the replies here my mesh being set to tight is a possibility that’s causing my problem.

From here on in I’ll be making sure grub screws are flat and I’m gonna try both the L and hand drivers to see which torques more for me.

I honestly do appreciate all of the advice given, the amount of replies received I should have this resolved.

 

[SrC]

We each have different ideas and methods for what works for us. I say L, @SrC Says not to use L. And that's okay.

So For Me-- I'm a mechanic and have sore wrists and pretty sure arthritis in my hands even though I'm 37.. been turning wrenches since I was 16. I have issues getting enough torque through a screwdriver handle to tighten them to a good torque.. by using the L its like putting a cheater pipe on the situation. Instead of just turning the handle I've got 6 inches of "cheater" I'm pulling on to multiply the torque..
My suggestion to use the L is based of yours coming loose. To me it seems obvious your having the same issue as me as far as getting enough torque to get it tight. I believe with the longer L you'll get it torqued more and maybe eliminate your issue.. make since?

I just feel that L wrenches don't afford the best leverage and actually are way less ergonomic to handle and use effectively. And the Included Arrma L wrenches are just garbage, FWIW. Toss them. Or keep them in your car trunk as emergency backups in a "pinch" , if at all. No seasoned Hobbyist uses them exclusively. MIP Hex hand drivers are up there on my list. What I been using for 25+ years. But most any Hand Hex driver will be better than L ( Allen ) wrenches. Especially with torquing/removing fine 2mm-3mm Grub screws properly. And without stripping them.
I could be wrong , but Most here on AF seem to agree on this. I like to Work smarter, Not harder. Was a Toy. Dealer tech for 8 years. Was in the Car Repair industry for 14 years in all. A/B and all.
But whatever works for you, I always say.

I’ve got quite a few good suggestions here to my issue. After checking the replies here my mesh being set to tight is a possibility that’s causing my problem.

From here on in I’ll be making sure grub screws are flat and I’m gonna try both the L and hand drivers to see which torques more for me.

I honestly do appreciate all of the advice given, the amount of replies received I should have this resolved.

Dude, it's no question that using L wrenches are/will be your problem.
Just stop using them. You came here to learn something. I think my point is more than just my opinion.
Its just common sense.
If not sure how to set Gear mesh, look to videos in regards. Tight"er" is best. Just not slammed completely tight, where there is Zero Backlash.
Yes, Either Too loose or Zero backlash will damage most any gearset.

>>>Start by pushing the Pinion tight against the Spur... Then back off a hair, so there is that slightest audible "Tick of Play" ( Backlash)

Good luck. Let us know how it goes.

 

[Bustedaw11]

I just feel that L wrenches don't afford the best leverage and actually are way less ergonomic to handle and use effectively. And the Included Arrma L wrenches are just garbage, FWIW. Toss them. Or keep them in your car trunk as emergency backups in a "pinch" , if at all. No seasoned Hobbyist uses them exclusively. MIP Hex hand drivers are up there on my list. What I been using for 25+ years. But most any Hand Hex driver will be better than L ( Allen ) wrenches. Especially with torquing/removing fine 2mm-3mm Grub screws properly. And without stripping them.
I could be wrong , but Most here on AF seem to agree on this. I like to Work smarter, Not harder. Was a Toy. Dealer tech for 8 years. Was in the Car Repair industry for 14 years in all. A/B and all.
But whatever works for you, I always say.

Dude, it's no question that using L wrenches are/will be your problem.
Just stop using them. You came here to learn something. I think my point is more than just my opinion.
Its just common sense.
If not sure how to set Gear mesh, look to videos in regards. Tight"er" is best. Just not slammed completely tight, where there is Zero Backlash.
Yes, Either Too loose or Zero backlash will damage most any gearset.

>>>Start by pushing the Pinion tight against the Spur... Then back off a hair, so there is that slightest audible "Tick of Play" ( Backlash)

Good luck. Let us know how it goes.

Smh

 

[razorrc]

Ok…

There is nothing inherently wrong with L wrenches, although if you can’t get enough torque on a standard wrench (and don’t have a disability), then something is wrong…!

BUT — almost all the L wrenches that come with an RC car are low quality metal, so I would not advise using them.

 

[nathanlow]

Not sure if the OP has solved the problem. I would like to share my experience.

Sometimes, there is leftover hardened threadlock in the lower threads of the pinion.
I usually take the grub screw and tighten it all the way through, while looking through the hole in the pinion.

This has happened to me many times, for pinions, input cups etc. When u thought it was really tight, it must have touched the shaft, then you stop turning. It has not..

 

[Daywalker_27]

Not sure if the OP has solved the problem. I would like to share my experience.

I’m two packs in with new wheels and no issues… yet.

 

[Hector_Fisher]

I think there is something worth saying about the quality of the metal/grubscrew. On my big bashers, i've had traxxas and arrma pinions come loose. I have yet to have a Tekno pinion come loose. The m5 grub screw it comes with, and the quality steel go miles for making sure you have proper thread bite for the grub, good overall contact with the motor shaft, and more surface area on the threads for loctite. As an added bonus, you get the 2.5mm hex, which makes it easier to torque higher and easier to remove.

Just my $0.02.

 

[SrC]

never had any trouble with pinion gears coming loose all i do is put a bit of blue threadlocker on the shaft and on the screw and a small bit on the threads

Blue TL (243) is all I use for ALL my pinions in the 30+ years doing RC. . If you think you need stronger Red, Green, Purple, Gold, Red with white poco dots etc, or Pink TL..... then it is simply user wrenching error. All the TL in the world will not help you!
Use Hand hex drivers, and NOT L wrenches!
Also, toss that stocker E-clip and Crush sleeve behind the pinion. They suck and cause more issues than anything. The E clips are "one use" only, and rarely stay back on once removed. And potentially will get sucked into the spur and pinion. That spells carnage right there.
Been there.