3s ring/input stripped

[Velodromed]

So I stripped out the rear ring and input gears in my granite. It’s an easy fix but…why did it strip to begin with? In over a year I’ve yet to strip one. I recently installed cvds on the rear and a week ago put in a 3670 motor. I’ve been running hot racing yokes for a couple months.

I put a new one in last night but decided to pull it apart again this morning and check the mesh because I couldn’t stop thinking about it last night. I’d also forgotten to fill it so did that as well. Good thing as it was only 1/4 full from the factory. I filled it up with 20k, I’m running 30k up front.

Maybe with the combination of cvds and the hot racing yoke it needs a tighter mesh? Thinking this, I swapped the shim to the ring side and it was way to tight. So I removed the shim altogether and it seems good. A little tight but good.

I ran it a bit ago and all seems well. I’ll run it again tomorrow then pull it apart to check everything. Trial and error…

 

[grihn]

I wonder if with the combination of everything the gear is now the weak point? If it continues to strip, perhaps try one of the CNC crown gears.

 

[K-BASH]

Combination of all that,I'd say..never used the cvds.but the stock axles have alot of play an flex,taking alot off the the power shock off the diffs,new 3670?did ya adjust slipper clutch after installing motor,landing granites under power will also do it....I've tore out 4,5 rears,never a front.....

 

[GRC]

Many people say being too hard on the throttle/brake is what strips diffs. If this is the reason you are stripping diffs, loosening the slipper may help. Minimizing drastic changes in speed by not jamming too hard on the throttle/brake would also help. Landing jumps on throttle also cause a sharp change in speed. But I've never stripped a diff because of these reasons.

I've also never had a problem with the front diff. But I started to strip rear input gears and diffs more and more once I started doing higher jumps. Every time was after landing a hard landing. I don't land on throttle, so I think hard landings flex the chassis, especially in the rear. The rear chassis probably flexes most right where the input gear and ring gear meet. I think they get thrown out of alignment and grind each other up.

The Hot Racing yoke definitely helped. But I still managed to strip diffs. I added the 4s center brace. It definitely reduces chassis flex. You can feel it if you try to press both shock towers towards each other. So far so good, I haven't stripped a rear diff since. The CNC gears may be the most direct solution. I've seen nothing but good reviews of them. But I'd like to avoid the extra weight if I can.

 

[Velodromed]

It was the rear diff. Thanks for the ideas and thoughts…I’m still thinking on it. Right now I think that the mesh needs to be very tight to handle the other upgrades. It was getting old and I should have removed or swapped the shim over. Yup I may end up going metal on the rear diff eventually. But I’d rather try get it dialed in as is.

It was the rear diff. Thanks for the ideas and thoughts…I’m still thinking on it. Right now I think that the mesh needs to be very tight to handle the other upgrades. It was getting old and I should have removed or swapped the shim over. Yup I may end up going metal on the rear diff eventually. But I’d rather try get it dialed in as is.

Good idea, I’ll loosen the slipper a bit. It’s perfect the way it was but the new motor and cvds…yeah I’ll loosen it a little.

 

[JPWSRC]

So I stripped out the rear ring and input gears in my granite. It’s an easy fix but…why did it strip to begin with? In over a year I’ve yet to strip one. I recently installed cvds on the rear and a week ago put in a 3670 motor. I’ve been running hot racing yokes for a couple months.

I put a new one in last night but decided to pull it apart again this morning and check the mesh because I couldn’t stop thinking about it last night. I’d also forgotten to fill it so did that as well. Good thing as it was only 1/4 full from the factory. I filled it up with 20k, I’m running 30k up front.

Maybe with the combination of cvds and the hot racing yoke it needs a tighter mesh? Thinking this, I swapped the shim to the ring side and it was way to tight. So I removed the shim altogether and it seems good. A little tight but good.
I ran it a bit ago and all seems well. I’ll run it again tomorrow then pull it apart to check everything. Trial and error…

Hey man, when I rebuilt my BRCC after cracking my chassis I could tell it was only a matter of time for the rear diff/input/crown to go. I fully contribute its demise to hard jumps at the Skate park ( bad choices) and the GPM axles. Got tired or replacing the axles at 20 a pop and eventually the diff gave out. Still running the GPMs and am on my second diff. I haven't been running it much however lately because I'm having so much more fun with my 4S rigs.

Edit:
After reading your latest post. Shimming the crown side is a bad idea, if you ask me the mesh is too tight already. If you install the CNC gears you "will" have to shim the crown side. It is better for the metal parts to be a little tight and wear in. Not all all true for the Composite gear set.

 

[VinnyMac]

i did the same thing today to my granite, I put it down to dozens of hard jumps including plenty of backflips so sometimes landing under throttle.

 

[Velodromed]

Hey man, when I rebuilt my BRCC after cracking my chassis I could tell it was only a matter of time for the rear diff/input/crown to go. I fully contribute its demise to hard jumps at the Skate park ( bad choices) and the GPM axles. Got tired or replacing the axles at 20 a pop and eventually the diff gave out. Still running the GPMs and am on my second diff. I haven't been running it much however lately because I'm having so much more fun with my 4S rigs.

Edit:
After reading your latest post. Shimming the crown side is a bad idea, if you ask me the mesh is too tight already. If you install the CNC gears you "will" have to shim the crown side. It is better for the metal parts to be a little tight and wear in. Not all all true for the Composite gear set.

Hey man. Yep, it was way too tight when I put the shim on the crown side so I remove the shim together as it was loose with it on the non-ring gear side. It’s a bit tight but not too tight. I ran it yesterday and it seems pretty spot on. I’ll run it again today then will pull it apart to look at the wear.

I expected this honestly. Just like anytime I’ve upgraded a part there seems to be a small chain reaction lol.