Attn speed runners.how much toe are you guys using?

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King blitz

Don't just modify . customize .
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Arrma RC's
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Curious to know what some of you speed runners are setting your toe ..what seems to be your go to settings to get your car straight?
 
I try to keep the car away from my toes 🤷‍♂️
+1 I rather keep my toes!

On a side note…
I’m using factory specs. Scorched and EMP offer 0 degrees. If my mind serves me right, you’re better off leaving it alone.

Edit

EMP

0 TOE IN 0 TOE OUT

Scorched
2.7 degrees (Stock setting) all the way down to zero degrees.
 
So you guys like your tires tilted towards the inside a tad bit? I've been keeping mine at 0 also but see some bring there toe in a little.seems like my suspension is very sensitive to even a slight pebble on the road.goes straight but the slightest un even road sends my car off track and makes me adjust stearing as I'm doing my pass ..also since now it's cold out seems like my slicks don't warm as much so that can also have a factor as why my passes are not as straight as it was when it was warm out.
 
Zero to Neg 5 degrees as stated above for front Toe. Yeah the rear is fixed because of the C and D block angles of the Hinge pins.
 
I set everything up to maximize the tire patch while going straight.
0 toe
0 camber
factory caster - but I will try putting more in to keep it tracking straighter.
You can only adjust the rear front camber toe, there is factory rear toe that cannot be changed.

Edit: See above.
 
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I don't have a toe gauge .can someone take a pic of your set up so I can try to imitate the same degree..?
So here is another question..so I installed short arms in the front and left the long arms in the rear.i tryed it last night and I seems like when I had the front and rear with the long arms it was going straighter longer during the passes.what would happen if I reversed it and put longer arms in the front and short in the rear? Wouldn't that just give me better stearing? Or would it give a straighter pass? Or what if I just put in all short arms front and rear .then what..? I figured I'd ask before I try these ideas first.maybey someone else has thought of this.feed back plz .thank you my arrma brothers 👍😁
 
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Measure the distance between front of the tires and the distance between the back of tires. If want to be precise use a piece of stiff plastic instead of your wheel. Although it will never be perfect and the numbers on full size cars are very small and scaling that down is very difficult. If you have to err for toe in or out, you can use toe in for straight line and toe out for cornering.



1669570610531.png
 
Ok so how I've been doing it is with full load .meaning lipo is in and I turn the transmitter on then receiver (obvious) then on the front wheels I put them at 0 negative .so now I should turn them in a few mm.the bottom of the wheels are flat covering all surface pad.so by turning them in a few mm or 1/16 what will that do? Is that for a straighter pass?
 
They are at negative 0 .so now I'll turn them in by a few mm .and then I'll do a few speed passes and see what the difference is . hopefully it makes it better.im limited to this stock spectrum transmitter.i might use my FS -GT5 . I only use it for my RC boats but since I can program up to 10 models on it I'll add this one to it also.probably get better range to.

IMG_20221127_205938895.jpg


IMG_20221127_210159066.jpg


IMG_20221127_205634029.jpg


16696016266866311006734662984305.jpg


166960168524671723415614283258.jpg
 
Question from the back ✋

What does negative zero mean? Zero is neither negative nor positive. It's just zero.

I don't understand what your transmitter or its limitations has to do with the toe-in of your vehicle. Could you elaborate?

From this picture I get the sense that you're showing us the camber of your front wheels as it's not possible to see toe-in when a single wheel is viewed from the front. You can only really see it in context with the wheel on the other side when viewed from above. More on this below.
1669602706777.png

Ok so how I've been doing it is with full load .meaning lipo is in and I turn the transmitter on then receiver (obvious) then on the front wheels I put them at 0 negative .so now I should turn them in a few mm.the bottom of the wheels are flat covering all surface pad.so by turning them in a few mm or 1/16 what will that do? Is that for a straighter pass?
This further leads me to believe that you're confusing toe-in with camber as toe-in has no effect on the contact patch of the tire.

I think part of the problem is that this picture here muddied the waters and you may have thought it was a head on picture of the wheels. It isn't. It's a view from above.
1669602606294.png


Toe-in is the measure of how "pigeon toed" your car is. If you look at the rear wheels of your Big Rock from above, you'll notice that the part of the tire facing forward is pointed towards the center of your car whereas the rear facing part of the tire is pointing outward. This is called toe-in.

Here's an illustration to help clarify. The red arrows are pointing to the rear wheels which have 2-3° of toe-in. The blue arrows are pointing to the front wheels which, if I had to guess, have 1.5-2° of toe-out.
1669603267122.png


Let's focus on the rear wheels for a moment. What toe-in does is increase straight line stability as it drives the wheels towards the centerline of the vehicle as illustrated below.
1669603434053.png


So what does toe-in/toe-out do when it comes to the front wheels? If you're running a little bit of toe-in on the front, this will increase straight line stability at the cost of steering response. If you're running a bit of toe-out on the front, you sacrifice straight line stability for a higher steering response.

To explain this a little further, if you imagine the front with toe-in (both wheels pointed inwards), it requires you to steer further to the left or right before both wheels are pointed in the direction you want to go. If, on the other hand, they're already pointed outward slightly (toe-out), one of your wheels is already pointed in the direction you want to turn in making it more responsive. I hope this makes sense.

As to the question of camber (tires leaning in or out from a front/rear view), this is really only relevant to a car's ability to turn corners and of no consequence to speed running. All it does is give you uneven tire wear since you would always be riding on the inside edge of your tire if you were to run negative camber (and on the outside edge if you were running positive camber).
1669604001907.png


Hope this helps.
 
I run factory rear (which is toe in around 2 deg.)
On the front I run about 1 deg of toe in. Now.... how much it moves under full throttle is unknown.

My camber angle is neutral. You can clean the tires and then roll the car on the ground to see where the contact patch is. I adjust till it's down the center slightly to the inside.

I have been 127 mph on 3s with a heavy 1/7 scale so I'd say that config works fine.
 
They are at negative 0 .so now I'll turn them in by a few mm .and then I'll do a few speed passes and see what the difference is . hopefully it makes it better.im limited to this stock spectrum transmitter.i might use my FS -GT5 . I only use it for my RC boats but since I can program up to 10 models on it I'll add this one to it also.probably get better range to.

View attachment 258926

View attachment 258927

View attachment 258928

View attachment 258930

View attachment 258931
From the pics (take it for what it's worth) it look like a bit of toe out an positive camber. If you want 0 camber you can use a speed square. It's probably one of the easier adjustments.
1669609119142.png


If you're interested my alignment is in post #14 of my build log. There are also a few YT videos that have more details. The key it to take your time. Between ride height front/rear and all the alignment adjustments it can take a while.
 
It's funny a stock car setup as far as caster, camber and toe do the same thing in the cars I raced back in the day.
 
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Question from the back ✋

What does negative zero mean? Zero is neither negative nor positive. It's just zero.

I don't understand what your transmitter or its limitations has to do with the toe-in of your vehicle. Could you elaborate?

From this picture I get the sense that you're showing us the camber of your front wheels as it's not possible to see toe-in when a single wheel is viewed from the front. You can only really see it in context with the wheel on the other side when viewed from above. More on this below.
View attachment 258936

This further leads me to believe that you're confusing toe-in with camber as toe-in has no effect on the contact patch of the tire.

I think part of the problem is that this picture here muddied the waters and you may have thought it was a head on picture of the wheels. It isn't. It's a view from above.
View attachment 258935

Toe-in is the measure of how "pigeon toed" your car is. If you look at the rear wheels of your Big Rock from above, you'll notice that the part of the tire facing forward is pointed towards the center of your car whereas the rear facing part of the tire is pointing outward. This is called toe-in.

Here's an illustration to help clarify. The red arrows are pointing to the rear wheels which have 2-3° of toe-in. The blue arrows are pointing to the front wheels which, if I had to guess, have 1.5-2° of toe-out.
View attachment 258946

Let's focus on the rear wheels for a moment. What toe-in does is increase straight line stability as it drives the wheels towards the centerline of the vehicle as illustrated below.
View attachment 258948

So what does toe-in/toe-out do when it comes to the front wheels? If you're running a little bit of toe-in on the front, this will increase straight line stability at the cost of steering response. If you're running a bit of toe-out on the front, you sacrifice straight line stability for a higher steering response.

To explain this a little further, if you imagine the front with toe-in (both wheels pointed inwards), it requires you to steer further to the left or right before both wheels are pointed in the direction you want to go. If, on the other hand, they're already pointed outward slightly (toe-out), one of your wheels is already pointed in the direction you want to turn in making it more responsive. I hope this makes sense.

As to the question of camber (tires leaning in or out from a front/rear view), this is really only relevant to a car's ability to turn corners and of no consequence to speed running. All it does is give you uneven tire wear since you would always be riding on the inside edge of your tire if you were to run negative camber (and on the outside edge if you were running positive camber).
View attachment 258949

Hope this helps.
The reason for showing the transmitter that I'd like to use is that it has a better option to adjust my stearing much more than the stock big rock transmitter.all I have on the stock is a dial .left and right and neutral..not really accurate..on the other one I can dial it in better I believe maybey it will help .that's what I'm thinking.i did show a pic of both wheels.maybey the pics ain't all that great but I set the wheels as straight as I could .I used a t square like mentioned to use and I don't know what else to do .
Setting the to neutral on stock isn't accurate.i beleive it's not digital like my gt one
 
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Thx diem for a good explanation of toe in..that was my main question.how it affects straight line passes. Something else is wrong then because almost every pass after I look at my wheels and the front change from where they were when I first started..my stearing links are tight .nothing loose but yet wheels have a slight play .I don't get it.this vehicle has allways giving me issues with getting straight passes.im constantly adjusting as I'm doing a run.its pissing me off .I upgraded the suspension thinking it would be better .which it is but I still have issues.
 
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