Outcast Constant slipper clutch issues...

[D0F1X3Rr]

As much as I love the Outcast 4S, I can't help get frustrated with the constant tweaking of the damn slipper clutch! If I put it on too tight, I either pop a U-joint OR strip the diff + input gear. If too loose, the discs completely slip out just on its first pack. I can't seem to win with this truck. And I notice this happens exclusively on 4S. I tried going completely compressed then a quarter turn back with Loctite applied as well resulting in a *snap* or *pop* on a part. I feel like the truck was really designed for 3S...

Anyone else have any luck with getting that sweet spot? Suggestions?

 

[ph47mf]

I did have the same issue then followed this video made by a fellow member and totally stopped the issue. Probably 10 packs in now and no issues.

 

[RC-RAD]

A quarter turn is way too tight. I also had slipper issues in the beginning resulting broken diffs and input gears. I tried the method above where you wait for the tires to start skidding but that was still too tight.

My sweet spot is 1.25 turns from tight and I loctite the other other side of the slipper clutch (as shown in the above video). I did this to my K4S and O4S and I have had no issues for the last 2 months running my cars 3-4 times a week on 4S. I have had horrible landings and crashes, my diffs hold up and my u-joints have stayed in place.

Best of luck in solving your slipper clutch issues. I know its a pain.

 

[Armarookie43]

As much as I love the Outcast 4S, I can't help get frustrated with the constant tweaking of the damn slipper clutch! If I put it on too tight, I either pop a U-joint OR strip the diff + input gear. If too loose, the discs completely slip out just on its first pack. I can't seem to win with this truck. And I notice this happens exclusively on 4S. I tried going completely compressed then a quarter turn back with Loctite applied as well resulting in a *snap* or *pop* on a part. I feel like the truck was really designed for 3S...

Anyone else have any luck with getting that sweet spot? Suggestions?

I was afraid of this when I pulled the trigger on my 4s Kraton today (probably bought one of the few left at all) . Hopefully I can find the sweet spot too ??

 

[arrmadillo]

I hate slippers!

 

[RC-RAD]

I was afraid of this when I pulled the trigger on my 4s Kraton today (probably bought one of the few left at all) . Hopefully I can find the sweet spot too ??

Once you get it dialed in. The 4s line up are lots of fun to drive. Looking back when I had my slipper issues. I’d say it’s better to start loose then tighten as necessary. I believe factory is 1.5 turns from tight. Start there, loctite the slipper screw, wait for loctite to cure (24hrs), then give it a spin. Get a feel of the throttle and how the car responds.

How tight the slipper is can be personal preference and driving style so it may take a couple runs for you to dial in the slipper.

I hate slippers!

I understand the hate for slipper clutches they can be such a headache.

I’m eventually going to pick up a 6s when I can make up my mind between a Notorious or Kraton 6s.


I see you have both the K6S and O6S. Do you have a preference over one or the other? I’m sure the differences are similar between the K4S and O4S.

 

[arrmadillo]

Once you get it dialed in. The 4s line up are lots of fun to drive. Looking back when I had my slipper issues. I’d say it’s better to start loose then tighten as necessary. I believe factory is 1.5 turns from tight. Start there, loctite the slipper screw, wait for loctite to cure (24hrs), then give it a spin. Get a feel of the throttle and how the car responds.

How tight the slipper is can be personal preference and driving style so it may take a couple runs for you to dial in the slipper.


I understand the hate for slipper clutches they can be such a headache.

I’m eventually going to pick up a 6s when I can make up my mind between a Notorious or Kraton 6s.


I see you have both the K6S and O6S. Do you have a preference over one or the other? I’m sure the differences are similar between the K4S and O4S.

Yes both lines are similar but I perfer the LWB Kratons, just a personal preference. The Outcasts are wheelie prone which is fun but gets old. Wish I never bought the OCs because I have a Granite for that.

 

[RC-RAD]

Yes both lines are similar but I perfer the LWB Kratons, just a personal preference. The Outcasts are wheelie prone which is fun but gets old. Wish I never bought the OCs because I have a Granite for that.

Thanks for confirming. I’m leaning towards the K6S now since I prefer my K4S over my outcast.

 

[arrmadillo]

Thanks for confirming. I’m leaning towards the K6S now since I prefer my K4S over my outcast.

Don't get me wrong I love the OC but Man on 6s it's animal, even the 4s OC on 4s is a handful, we drive that truck on 3s a lot and it's still crazy. If I knew a 4s OC was in the works probably would have went with that one over OC6s, really like the looks of that little truck.

 

[GRC]

A quarter turn is way too tight. I also had slipper issues in the beginning resulting broken diffs and input gears. I tried the method above where you wait for the tires to start skidding but that was still too tight.

My sweet spot is 1.25 turns from tight and I loctite the other other side of the slipper clutch (as shown in the above video). I did this to my K4S and O4S and I have had no issues for the last 2 months running my cars 3-4 times a week on 4S. I have had horrible landings and crashes, my diffs hold up and my u-joints have stayed in place.

Best of luck in solving your slipper clutch issues. I know its a pain.

1.25 is the sweet spot for me as well. Any tighter caused too much stress and the loc-tite would not hold. Definitely want to loctite the other side. I haven't had a problem since I did this either. I see no reason to use the skid method because you have to remove the slipper to put loctite on the other side anyway. Once the slipper is removed, it's much easier to work with. You can put loc-tite on the screw while keeping the spring clean. Tightening and loosening the slipper is a flick of the wrist. To use the skid method, you have to loc-tite the screw, get it in without getting loc-tite on the spring, drag it across the floor, then take the slipper out to put loc-tite on the other side.

 

[jondilly1974]

I’ve also noticed recently that if I set my slipper using one set of tires, say the Minokawas, and then later swap to the Backflip LPs, the slipper will be too tight. This is due to the BLPs having more traction. I recently popped a u-joint after being lazy and running BLPs on pavement. I usually swap to the Minos if not on dirt. Now I have a shaft to swap in addition to tires.

Lesson learned, set your slipper with your lowest traction tires.

edited for typo

 

[Armarookie43]

Thanks for confirming. I’m leaning towards the K6S now since I prefer my K4S over my outcast.

Get the k6s. It breaks less than the Notorious/outcast. I have both.

 

[GRC]

I’ve also noticed recently that if I set my slipper using one set of tires, say the Minokawas, and then later swap to the Backflip LPs, the slipper will be too tight. This is due to the BLPs having more traction. I recently popped a u-joint after being lazy and running BLPs on pavement. I usually swap to the Minos if not on dirt. Now I have a shaft to swap in addition to tires.

Lesson learned, set your slipper with your highest traction tires.

Using your highest traction tires will make the slipper even TIGHTER. Using a manual method and finding the exact number of turns you prefer to loosen is always repeatable and removes the variability of tire traction.

 

[jondilly1974]

Using your highest traction tires will make the slipper even TIGHTER. Using a manual method and finding the exact number of turns you prefer to loosen is always repeatable and removes the variability of tire traction.

Oops I meant to say least traction tire ??‍ I should make a rule, never post before coffee. ?

 

[A_Basher]

When you guys say to turn X turns from fully tight, does fully tight means you turn the screw all the way in till you can't turn it anymore, then turn it back X amount of turns?
When I do this, it always feels much too tight for me, and then I open it 1/2-3/4 turns more.

 

[jondilly1974]

When you guys say to turn X turns from fully tight, does fully tight means you turn the screw all the way in till you can't turn it anymore, then turn it back X amount of turns?
When I do this, it always feels much too tight for me, and then I open it 1/2-3/4 turns more.

Yes they mean all the way tight. You risk breaking the brass bushing out of the front hub or smashing the spring doing so. It’s a really bad idea.

 

[GRC]

When you guys say to turn X turns from fully tight, does fully tight means you turn the screw all the way in till you can't turn it anymore, then turn it back X amount of turns?
When I do this, it always feels much too tight for me, and then I open it 1/2-3/4 turns more.

Full tight means until it stops, not until you can't physically turn it anymore. Like screwing into plastic without risking stripping. Arrma recommends you turn back 1.5 turns. I found this too loose, 1.25 is good for me. Some like really tight response enough to accept potential damage, but I'd say 3/4 is minimum to avoid damage.

Yes they mean all the way tight. You risk breaking the brass bushing out of the front hub or smashing the spring doing so. It’s a really bad idea.

Full tight doesn't mean you try to smash it. Just screw it in till it stops. It gets there quite easily. The initial pressure that stops the screw is not going to smash a brass bushing through or break a spring. Has anyone actually done this? I know you prefer the drag method, but doing it manually is a perfectly good way to do it as well. In the last post we discussed this, 2 of us believed the drag method gets you to full tight (in a new vehicle). Nothing is going to break tightening with the drag method either.

 

[jondilly1974]

Yes, full tight is too tight, Arrma recommends you turn back 1.5 turns. I found this slightly too loose, 1.25 is good for me. If you want instant wheelies, 1.25 may be too loose.


Full tight doesn't mean you try to smash it. Just screw it in till it stops. It gets there quite easily. You think the initial pressure that stops the screw is going to smash a brass bushing through or break a spring? Has anyone actually done this? I know you prefer the drag method, but doing it manually is a perfectly good way to do it as well.

Yes I have broken the front hub twice trying to get it fully tight. The hub broke before the screw stopped turning. I’ve also smashed a spring with that method. It is also a poor method because not all springs will give the same tension. Also depending on the power level you are using and the size of tires in use, you will need different tightness levels on a slipper. The amount of traction a set of tires has is also a factor. On my K4S, Backflip LPs have so much more grip than Minokawas that they end up breaking u-joints where other lower traction tires like the Minos and Road Rage do not. Smaller tires will also work fine on a tighter slipper too. So it’s not a one size fits all. With enough time you will come to the same realization.

 

[GRC]

The level of power, size of tires will not be correctly adjusted for using the drag method. Tire traction will certainly make the drag method variable. That is why I think the manual method is better. You can know exactly how tight you got it. If you need to adjust, you know how much will make it tighter or looser. You've obviously had to go through it alot. But that doesn't necessarily demonstrate you've found the best method. Like I've said before, I've never had to worry about it since I loc-tite'd the screw, then loc-tite'd it from the back, then backed off at least one full turn. Less than one full turn gets me better response, but it doesn't hold. The exact amount others back off will definitely depend on their power/tires/preference and how much they are willing to sacrifice performance for less maintenance.

 

[jondilly1974]

The level of power, size of tires will not be correctly adjusted for using the drag method. Tire traction will certainly make the drag method variable. That is why I think the manual method is better. You can know exactly how tight you got it. If you need to adjust, you know how much will make it tighter or looser. You've obviously had to go through it alot. But that doesn't necessarily demonstrate you've found the best method. Like I've said before, I've never had to worry about it since I loc-tite'd the screw, then loc-tite'd it from the back, then backed off at least one full turn. The exact amount others back off will definitely depend on their power/tires/preference.

It’s the going full tight that I take issue with. I’m far from the only one who’s broken hubs using that method.