Typhon Destroying tires within 20 min... Help please.

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Comptrekkie

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I am a newb still learning about all this stuff. Used to be into RC cars in the early 2000's. Lots of change, also never had this much power. I have a Typhon 6s BLX. The tires that came with the car lasted 3 runs then they all started separating and one threw all the foam out. I did not even realize I needed to watch for this so it may have been happening since the first time then boom. I thought it was just bad tires so after some research I bought Badlands MX M2's. Within 20 min the back tire was 1/4 unglued, was taking it easier and before I even finished the battery the front tire was more than half unglued. Made sure to keep an eye out this time and they are currently drying from being reglued.

Is this normal? Are 6s batteries just too much? I have seen youtuber's not having issue with these tires and 6S. They are bashing the cap out of them. Am I cornering too hard? IS grass just much harder on the wheels? I like running full speed, drifting in the grass, and hitting small ramps getting maybe 2-3ft air. I do on occasion pop up on the left or right side of tires and come back down. Flips a lot in grass, plan to add Kraton hubs to help with stance and run bigger wheels. I am mostly running in grass. Just seems crazy that tires that cost $20 each unglue after 20-30 min.

Any advice would be great. really want to enjoy this car, it is awesome to play with. just seems to unglue tires way too fast.
 
Its funny cause i just posted in the "5s" thread about typhon and senton 6s vehicles. They are best ran on 5s. Yes 6s will blow tires a lot if youre hard on the throttle. Either have restraint or use less S's

You can also buy these on amazon and do this. Or do this with any tire. This has been done by many RC enthusiasts for decades. This is my exact wheel choice for 6s Typhon and Senton and you can throttle to your hearts content.

Tires:
https://www.amazon.com/RC-Station-Wheels-Preglued-Inserts/dp/B09ZP61KHR/ref=sr_1_7?crid=3L4N0HGMVNKOH&keywords=buggy+17mm+tires&qid=1702342632&s=toys-and-games&sprefix=buggy+17mm+tires,toys-and-games,83&sr=1-7&th=1

 
Hello,

Biggest thing is to watch your driving style and the diff starts to diff out meaning it basically sends all the power to the side with the least weight. When that happens and you are hard on the throttle, that tire will spin much faster than its suppose to be and blow up.

What type of driving are you doing?

On-road or Off-road?

For on road I reccomend the GRP tires as they are cost effective and have a good lifespan

There are many Off-road tires and i would reccomend the MX-28


As I said before you have to be carefull with non belted tires like the MX-28. They will blow up on you. I would also reccomend changing the diff oil in your truck for better handling and to minimize "diffing out".
40k front, 200k center and 20k rear
Here is what he reccomends. Deffinitley trustable and I would give this a shot!
 
Its funny cause i just posted in the "5s" thread about typhon and senton 6s vehicles. They are best ran on 5s. Yes 6s will blow tires a lot if youre hard on the throttle. Either have restraint or use less S's

You can also buy these on amazon and do this. Or do this with any tire. This has been done by many RC enthusiasts for decades. This is my exact wheel choice for 6s Typhon and Senton and you can throttle to your hearts content.

Tires:
https://www.amazon.com/RC-Station-Wheels-Preglued-Inserts/dp/B09ZP61KHR/ref=sr_1_7?crid=3L4N0HGMVNKOH&keywords=buggy+17mm+tires&qid=1702342632&s=toys-and-games&sprefix=buggy+17mm+tires,toys-and-games,83&sr=1-7&th=1

Thank you, I will look at this. Was just sitting down to do some research.
 
Hello,

Biggest thing is to watch your driving style and the diff starts to diff out meaning it basically sends all the power to the side with the least weight. When that happens and you are hard on the throttle, that tire will spin much faster than its suppose to be and blow up.

What type of driving are you doing?

On-road or Off-road?

For on road I reccomend the GRP tires as they are cost effective and have a good lifespan

There are many Off-road tires and i would reccomend the MX-28


As I said before you have to be carefull with non belted tires like the MX-28. They will blow up on you. I would also reccomend changing the diff oil in your truck for better handling and to minimize "diffing out".

Here is what he reccomends. Deffinitley trustable and I would give this a shot!
Interesting. I like to punch it full throttle a lot, did not realize it was causing my issue. I did notice that it was one side this time that separated. Can't remember if it was left or right. I wonder if it was the lighter side without the battery. I do see them ballooning a lot, especially when it is in the air for a bit.
 
Every tire has an rpm limit. Centrifugal force expands them and the beads/tires can only take so much.
My guess is that when your turning on throttle in grass your over driving the inside tires and expanding them to much. Diff out.
If your geared for 60 and hold 1 rear tire still the other will try to spin at 120mph.
 
Always always always check your tires with a new rig.......or after each run. It never hurts to run a bead of tire glue on a new tire before you run it. I find in general that new tires always need glue before I run them. Keep in mind that the factory glue job is most likely sub par.
 
You'll eventually start to get a feel for when the car is diffing out. If you lose traction, let off the throttle every time or you will diff out. Not necessarily fully off throttle, but definitely back off a bit. If you think the car should be going faster than it is, let off the throttle until you regain traction. Full throttle needs to be slowly worked up to, not just mashed on or you will diff out. You'll start to get a feeling for when you can apply full throttle, but honestly on 6s you need to be really careful about throttle control or as you've already seen you will blow tires. If you're noticing you're diffing out constantly, make sure the tires you're running are suited to the terrain you're running. Some tires are better than others for loose dirt versus hardpack versus grass versus pavement etc.

Clues that you're diffing out are obviously just seeing one side spinning faster, but also hearing high pitched whines from the rig. It really becomes second nature that it's happening eventually, keep practicing and driving and you'll start to see it immediately.
 
Be careful with YT, much is edited out. Breakages and all.

With the Typhon (TLRT), I run only 4s packs. So my drivetrain stays fairly durable enough for me.
With 4s packs and full running weight the Typhon is very balanced L-R out the box. As tested on my Digital Crossweight scale. If you diff bleed at one corner, ( wheel) much is driver input, and the rest is Diff oil selection at that axel's diff. I generally double my oil thickness of the fronts compared to the rear. My K6s, for example runs 60kf, 500k, 30k. The SWB Typhon is much lighter, so I use thinner oils, this with 4s packs. Oil thckness is subjective. Just have to start somewhere and dial it in to how you like it. My 6s FT- 60k/1mil/30k, 6s Mojave-60k/300k/30k. Each rig drives differently, so I experimented with what works best for each. I don't try to make one drive like the other.
I have bins full of oil here. Oil is not cheap. But good to have a selection on hand. Good to buy bottles of 20k,30k 60k, 500k and 1Mil. for bashing uses. 500k and I mil for the center diff. Sometimes I will mix 500k with 1 mil. I mil does not pour out, So use a knife or similar to scoop it.
For confined track use (4s), 3k,7k is a good start. 3k fr and rear . 7k at center.
Always check new tires and add CA if you question the factory gluing. I usually find one that needs CA. I then vent and balance all my wheels. I get the most out of my tires this way over the years. RC tires is one of the expensive costs in RC. Keep them dry, otherwise the foams rot with mold, disintegrates and wear out, tires blows out. Diff'ing out exacerbates this.
 
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Interesting. I like to punch it full throttle a lot, did not realize it was causing my issue. I did notice that it was one side this time that separated. Can't remember if it was left or right. I wonder if it was the lighter side without the battery. I do see them ballooning a lot, especially when it is in the air for a bit.
Buggies with Buggy tires were meant for 4s packs on the track. Geared for speeds of only 35-40mph on confined tracks.
Running 6s in a 1/8 buggy for bashing use , geared to well over 60mph, will tear tires up real fast . It's just a thing.
 
Run these if you want to run 6s on your Typhon. Ran them on mine before I made it a street basher snd they held up to 6s better than any other tire I ran including Badlands.

https://www.powerhobby.com/powerhobby-armor-buggy-tries.html

6s is still rough on them and they will need glue occasionally., but not as bad as the others. As mentioned above, 4s is way easier on the tires than 6s.
 
^^^ Nice find. Might consider them myself.
PH has some good stuff, and unkike PL wont break the bank.
I picked up a set of some DXT Knobby buggy tires, on clearance. Non belted. Should have bought many sets of them in retropspect. Were so stupid cheap. Haven't run them yet . DTX is no more as a brand. HH owns both DTX and PL brands. So PL remained the front runner. What I heard through the grapevine.
 
Thank you, I will look at this. Was just sitting down to do some research.
Drop your ESC Punch setting Down "some", your Throttle finger and drivetrain and Tires will thank you. Especially with liittle wheel time experience, it's hard to control all that 6s wheelspin in the beginning .;) Dropping Punch down basically limits ESC Amp delivery. Softens the Throttle acceleration. Focus on that. Should help for sure. Takes hundreds of hours of Wheeltime to get familar and very comfortable with The Radio of your RC's.
Why its always best to have that one Multimodel Upgrade radio. Getting very used it, the ergonimics, trigger's Latency response, and all... for any and all your rigs. And most any decent Upgrade radio offers Throttle Exponential and Throttle Speed adjustments as well. No RTR Radio will have these features.
The Radiolink RC6GS ($80.ish) or RC4GS ($60.ish) are great Upgrade radios that won't break the bank. Some food for thought as you progress down this RC rabbit hole...
:cool:

Edited.
 
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I am a newb still learning about all this stuff. Used to be into RC cars in the early 2000's. Lots of change, also never had this much power. I have a Typhon 6s BLX. The tires that came with the car lasted 3 runs then they all started separating and one threw all the foam out. I did not even realize I needed to watch for this so it may have been happening since the first time then boom. I thought it was just bad tires so after some research I bought Badlands MX M2's. Within 20 min the back tire was 1/4 unglued, was taking it easier and before I even finished the battery the front tire was more than half unglued. Made sure to keep an eye out this time and they are currently drying from being reglued.

Is this normal? Are 6s batteries just too much? I have seen youtuber's not having issue with these tires and 6S. They are bashing the cap out of them. Am I cornering too hard? IS grass just much harder on the wheels? I like running full speed, drifting in the grass, and hitting small ramps getting maybe 2-3ft air. I do on occasion pop up on the left or right side of tires and come back down. Flips a lot in grass, plan to add Kraton hubs to help with stance and run bigger wheels. I am mostly running in grass. Just seems crazy that tires that cost $20 each unglue after 20-30 min.

Any advice would be great. really want to enjoy this car, it is awesome to play with. just seems to unglue tires way too fast.
Normal. Get belted and don't limit your appetite lol. get better tires and send ittttttt!!!
 
I got a hell of a deal on these tires a long time ago. Belted Proline "2.8 Trenchers I believe" I can pick up the car and hold 6s power full trigger for as long as you want haha, 0 explodies.

 
Wanted to give an update that the advice here helped a lot. Set punch to 3, been listing to the Diffs, watching for tires to balloon. Also glued all tires before use. Not sure what one did it, but I have had no issues for several runs now. even after truggifying and using big 3.8 badlands. Thanks all.

Also, I realized it was mostly happening much more with the new 6800 MAH -120C Bashing battery. I wanted more run time, did not realize it allows more power delivery as well. I definitely notice it. I have to be more careful on the throttle using this battery. Well worth the extra runtime, and power when I want it.
 
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