Do Castle 1415 2400kv motors come with battery wires pre-soldered? If not, suggestions

[parcou]

Taking my first stab at a Castle motor here

Not good at soldering...hate it. Takes me forever to do a battery...it's messy when done and never a clean battery solder. The HW motors I have bought the motor wires are already on.

Do Castle motors come with the wires soldered? If not, any good videos to look at "if" I even tried.

Thx


How it is pictured but does not state if it comes this way

 

[N.Mango]

It does come how pictured
Though CC ESC's require soldering batt connector.

 

[Moirae]

Order the esc from radiocontrolpower.com and they will solder a connector of your choice for only the price of the connector.

 

[Diem Turner]

To be a little more precise when it comes to Castle motor, the three motor leads are pre-soldered to the tabs on the motor from the factory. The included three bullet connectors, however, are not and are in a separate baggie along with three pieces of shrink tubing.

 

[N.Mango]

To be a little more precise when it comes to Castle motor, the three motor leads are pre-soldered to the tabs on the motor from the factory. The included three bullet connectors, however, are not and are in a separate baggie along with three pieces of shrink tubing.

All my CC motors came with the bullets soldered from factory...

 

[Diem Turner]

All my CC motors came with the bullets soldered from factory...

lol...I knew that someone was going to say that. Interestingly, the XLX2 includes three pieces of pre-tinned 8AWG wire, three 8mm Castle bullets and three pieces of shrink tubing in a separate bag. I think this is just ot ensure that the custome has everything he needs to connect most any motor to the XLX2, irrespective of what leads are on that motor.

 

[N.Mango]

lol...I knew that someone was going to say that. Interestingly, the XLX2 includes three pieces of pre-tinned 8AWG wire, three 8mm Castle bullets and three pieces of shrink tubing in a separate bag. I think this is just ot ensure that the custome has everything he needs to connect most any motor to the XLX2, irrespective of what leads are on that motor.

I was going to get into that but he was talking about a motor that I have so didn't want to get too technical about the beast motors.
I need to dot my I's with you I tell you!

 

[Diem Turner]

I was going to get into that but he was talking about a motor that I have so didn't want to get too technical about the beast motors.
I need to dot my I's with you I tell you!

Yeah, dunno why I brought up the ESC. The question here was clearly about the motor and not any ESC.

Edit: Oh that's right, because 5 minutes earlier I had just seen the bag of 3 motor leads from one of my XLX2 lying on my work bench. I knew there was a reason for my deviation

 

[N.Mango]

Yeah, dunno why I brought up the ESC. The question here was clearly about the motor and not any ESC.

Prolly got big HP on your mind

 

[Diem Turner]

Prolly got big HP on your mind

Well when don't we? Most men I know don't sit around with a one and two fifths HP two stroke Piaggio scooter on their mind. They're usually thinking in more substantial terms.

 

[N.Mango]

Well when don't we? Most men I know don't sit around with a one and two fifths HP two stroke Piaggio scooter on their mind. They're usually thinking in more substantial terms.

Or how to turn that one and two fifths into 5 HP.

 

[Diem Turner]

Or how to turn that one and two fifths into 5 HP.

Allow me...think back to high school algebra and just take the reciprocal of one and two fifths, that's five and one half. BOOM. Done.

Edit: I know that's wrong nonsense, I was just remembering words and it sounded good for about a half second.

 

[N.Mango]

Allow me...think back to high school algebra and just take the reciprocal of one and two fifths, that's five and one half. BOOM. Done.

Edit: I know that's wrong nonsense, I was just remembering words and it sounded good for about a half second.

.

 

[SirCrashALot]

Taking my first stab at a Castle motor here

Not good at soldering...hate it. Takes me forever to do a battery...it's messy when done and never a clean battery solder. The HW motors I have bought the motor wires are already on.

Do Castle motors come with the wires soldered? If not, any good videos to look at "if" I even tried.

Thx


How it is pictured but does not state if it comes this way
View attachment 280033

I have the 1415-2400kv, the 1512-2650kv and the 1520-1650kv. They all came RTR. Their ESC's require a connector of choice to be soldered on.
I am with you on the soldering part. I tried for hours to solder EC5 connectors on the ESC's.
I know that an 80 Watts iron should do, but the tin took forever to melt, heating up the entire ESC, never melted right and kept falling off the wires.
I finally had enough. I cut the ruined parts off the wires. Then i got the plugs, put them in a vice, heated them with a torch, filled them up with tin and then pushed the wire end into that fluid tin bath and held it there to cool down. That worked for me.

 

[dure16]

The Castle 1415 is an incredible motor. It runs very strong and cool for its size.

It comes from the factory with the motor wires soldered on both ends - to the motor and to 4mm bullet connectors.

Which ESC and what voltage will you be running?

 

[HZRDOS]

I have the 1415-2400kv, the 1512-2650kv and the 1520-1650kv. They all came RTR. Their ESC's require a connector of choice to be soldered on.
I am with you on the soldering part. I tried for hours to solder EC5 connectors on the ESC's.
I know that an 80 Watts iron should do, but the tin took forever to melt, heating up the entire ESC, never melted right and kept falling off the wires.
I finally had enough. I cut the ruined parts off the wires. Then i got the plugs, put them in a vice, heated them with a torch, filled them up with tin and then pushed the wire end into that fluid tin bath and held it there to cool down. That worked for me.

How do you like the 1512 2650kv? What do you run it in? I have a few 1515 2200kv, and have used the 1415 2400kv before, but will be first time with the 1512. About to put one in a build.

 

[dure16]

How do you like the 1512 2650kv? What do you run it in? I have a few 1515 2200kv, and have used the 1415 2400kv before, but will be first time with the 1512. About to put one in a build.

It’s not exactly what you’re asking, but I just took a 1515 out of my Typhon and installed a 1512 1800kv instead.

I like it better for a lightweight car. Less weight and less torque. Still plenty of speed. I geared it way up on 4S and it runs cool without a fan.

 

[SirCrashALot]

How do you like the 1512 2650kv? What do you run it in? I have a few 1515 2200kv, and have used the 1415 2400kv before, but will be first time with the 1512. About to put one in a build.

I have two Slashes. One has a Mamba X and the 1415 motor. The other a MMX6S and 1512 motor. While the 1415 has no problems moving the sct, the 1512 makes it overpowered.
The Slash is a bit heavier than the 1415 is rated for, but it still runs cool without problems.
I find the 1512 better suited and more fun in these cars.
Oh. I run both on 3S exclusively. I think 4S is likely to cause carnage, just like i run 4S in the Mojave instead of 6S.

 

[Diem Turner]

I have the 1415-2400kv, the 1512-2650kv and the 1520-1650kv. They all came RTR. Their ESC's require a connector of choice to be soldered on.
I am with you on the soldering part. I tried for hours to solder EC5 connectors on the ESC's.
I know that an 80 Watts iron should do, but the tin took forever to melt, heating up the entire ESC, never melted right and kept falling off the wires.
I finally had enough. I cut the ruined parts off the wires. Then i got the plugs, put them in a vice, heated them with a torch, filled them up with tin and then pushed the wire end into that fluid tin bath and held it there to cool down. That worked for me.

Your soldering iron wasn't the the problem. It was your solder. Give me once chance to try to change your mind about soldering. If this doesn't drastically improve your soldering experience, I will admit defeat and bother you with it no more (I won't bother you with it either way as I'm not particularly prone to haranguing, I just thought it had the ring of a neat and tidy bow to finalize the exchange).

I know it's more than just five bucks but I'm adamant that this is one of the most worthwhile investments in a quality tool that has the potential to wholesale change your relationship with soldering which, personally, I consider to be one of the core skills that anyone who works with electronic stuff on a regular basis should at least understand two or three basic concepts that will make that skill your tool and not your nemesis.

Do yourself a solid and order this 1lb. spool of Kester 63/37 solder. The 0.040" diameter is great for all RC needs and all your general soldering needs. It's slim enough to take care of smaller jobs but thick enough that you can still fill a QS8 connector cup fast enough that it isn't annoying. Kester makes great quality solder but this particular solder consisting of 63% tin and 37% lead is better than the rest due to its non-eutectic properties. I won't bore you with the details, but what that means in how it behaves when working with it is that, unlike a 60/40 solder which requires that the solder joint remains absolutely motionless after you remove the heat from the soldering iron and the solder has cooled and crystalized otherwise the possibility of cold solder joints rises drastically, 63/37 solder doesn't care, you can jiggle it about, move the wires into their final position while the solder crystalizes and you still get a nice shiny, solder joint virtually every time with no risk of producing a cold joint.

If you've never used leaded rosin-core solder before, I promise you that you will never use lead-free solder again unless you're in a life and death situation...and even then you'll think about it for at least half a second. Leaded solder with a rosin core has a lower melting point of 183°C which means it melts fast, it stays melted easier and, unlike lead-free solder which is the biggest PITA to re-flow once it has cooled and crystallized, no such problems with this solder. De-soldering lead-free solder jobs sucks. It's like it just doesn't want to melt again. Yeah sure, you can brute force it with a torch but, if you're soldering anything with plastic on it like battery connectors, forget about it. To say that this solder is life changing admittedly sounds a bit over the top. But even if you just solder one or two things a week, I don't think its hyperbole. Ok, maybe it doesn't "change your life", but at bare minimum you'll look forward to soldering things because it turns a chore into a joy.

The only two other things I'd mention briefly regarding soldering that is a basic part of good practice that don't cost you any time but make it all work even better. Always make sure to turn the temperature up high enough if you have an iron with a thermostat (it's better if it's a little hotter than a little cooler and you'll know if you're pushing the temperature a bit high if your solder looks like evaporating off the tip of your iron as you touch the solder to it) and keep the tip of your iron clean by wiping it off either on a wet sponge or in a copper brillo pad briefly before you touch the iron to your work and after you're finished heating the solder joint. Last thing is always put a tiny dab of solder on the tip of the iron before you hold it to your work to heat it as this increases the contact patch across which the heat can flow by 10 or 100 fold. The difference in heat transfer is amazing.

That's it. Oh right, here's the solder. It's $40 for a 1lb spool but that spool should last you at least two or three years, probably a lot longer. https://amz.run/6Pfv

 

[SirCrashALot]

I have two Slashes. One has a Mamba X and the 1415 motor. The other a MMX6S and 1512 motor. While the 1415 has no problems moving the sct, the 1512 makes it overpowered.
The Slash is a bit heavier than the 1415 is rated for, but it still runs cool without problems.
I find the 1512 better suited and more fun in these cars.
Oh. I run both on 3S exclusively. I think 4S is likely to cause carnage, just like i run 4S in the Mojave instead of 6S.

Forgot to add.
Castle log says the 1415 pulls around 700 Watts and the 1512 almost 900 Watts. I use 6500mah Gens and runtime with the 1512 is about 30 minutes. My daughter is easier on the throttle and a bit more careful than j and she manages to get more runtime than i.

Your soldering iron wasn't the the problem. It was your solder. Give me once chance to try to change your mind about soldering. If this doesn't drastically improve your soldering experience, I will admit defeat and bother you with it no more (I won't bother you with it either way as I'm not particularly prone to haranguing, I just thought it had the ring of a neat and tidy bow to finalize the exchange).

I know it's more than just five bucks but I'm adamant that this is one of the most worthwhile investments in a quality tool that has the potential to wholesale change your relationship with soldering which, personally, I consider to be one of the core skills that anyone who works with electronic stuff on a regular basis should at least understand two or three basic concepts that will make that skill your tool and not your nemesis.

Do yourself a solid and order this 1lb. spool of Kester 63/37 solder. The 0.040" diameter is great for all RC needs and all your general soldering needs. It's slim enough to take care of smaller jobs but thick enough that you can still fill a QS8 connector cup fast enough that it isn't annoying. Kester makes great quality solder but this particular solder consisting of 63% tin and 37% lead is better than the rest due to its non-eutectic properties. I won't bore you with the details, but what that means in how it behaves when working with it is that, unlike a 60/40 solder which requires that the solder joint remains absolutely motionless after you remove the heat from the soldering iron and the solder has cooled and crystalized otherwise the possibility of cold solder joints rises drastically, 63/37 solder doesn't care, you can jiggle it about, move the wires into their final position while the solder crystalizes and you still get a nice shiny, solder joint virtually every time with no risk of producing a cold joint.

If you've never used leaded rosin-core solder before, I promise you that you will never use lead-free solder again unless you're in a life and death situation...and even then you'll think about it for at least half a second. Leaded solder with a rosin core has a lower melting point of 183°C which means it melts fast, it stays melted easier and, unlike lead-free solder which is the biggest PITA to re-flow once it has cooled and crystallized, no such problems with this solder. De-soldering lead-free solder jobs sucks. It's like it just doesn't want to melt again. Yeah sure, you can brute force it with a torch but, if you're soldering anything with plastic on it like battery connectors, forget about it. To say that this solder is life changing admittedly sounds a bit over the top. But even if you just solder one or two things a week, I don't think its hyperbole. Ok, maybe it doesn't "change your life", but at bare minimum you'll look forward to soldering things because it turns a chore into a joy.

The only two other things I'd mention briefly regarding soldering that is a basic part of good practice that don't cost you any time but make it all work even better. Always make sure to turn the temperature up high enough if you have an iron with a thermostat (it's better if it's a little hotter than a little cooler and you'll know if you're pushing the temperature a bit high if your solder looks like evaporating off the tip of your iron as you touch the solder to it) and keep the tip of your iron clean by wiping it off either on a wet sponge or in a copper brillo pad briefly before you touch the iron to your work and after you're finished heating the solder joint. Last thing is always put a tiny dab of solder on the tip of the iron before you hold it to your work to heat it as this increases the contact patch across which the heat can flow by 10 or 100 fold. The difference in heat transfer is amazing.

That's it. Oh right, here's the solder. It's $40 for a 1lb spool but that spool should last you at least two or three years, probably a lot longer. https://amz.run/6Pfv
View attachment 280046

Thanks. I appreciate that very much.
What you said about lead free solder is exactly what i experienced. Unfortunately, anything lead containing is pretty much prohibited and thus hard to get from normal hard wear stores.
I may try that Kester stuff.