Fireteam Driveshaft pins

[parcou]

I noticed the pins at the ends of the driveshaft to the outdrive are wearing flat. I am aware there is a tool to do this process see a video posted a while back. What I like to know can anyone point me to the size of the pins for the 6S and where to find the pins?

On my Kraton, the pins are wearing on those as well but those are M2C driveshafts. So I need to contact them to see what is the size of those.

 

[jkflow]

I believe the originals are 14.5mm but these work really well:
Mugen/SEIKI Pin C0271 3x13.8
https://www.ebay.com/itm/233529662902

These work as well but it gets really tight and fiddly
Mugen/SEIKI Pin C0270 12.8mm


You can get creative and cut 3mm drill bits. Just cut off the end. The shaft will do but price is about the same as above, plus when you cut they do fling into the furthest corner.

Note: A tool is essential, don't try pliers etc, will not work. Even the right tool can have problems in case of a real tight fit. Tool is expensive, take a look at how often you need to do this vs just buying new shafts from Jennys.

 

[nathanlow]

replace pins with Table clamp

 

[jkflow]

replace pins with Table clamp

Don't do it, you will kill yourself after a couple attempts, as it's frustrating as heck. You will fling that mofo all across the shop if you are just slightly off.

 

[Surchaufeur]

replace pins with Table clamp

I did that yesterday
I had to out my own weight on top of the vice.. it was a real workout lmao

 

[nathanlow]

I did that yesterday
I had to out my own weight on top of the vice.. it was a real workout lmao

i think the key is to use a large bench vise..i did about 6 drive shafts..it was easy

 

[Sandracer_NL]

I also have Mugen Seiki C270 and C271 to replace for pins. I also have a replacement tool, but even with that it’s takes a lot of blood, tears and sweat to get the original pin out. I used heat, because it feels like the original pins are superglued or permanent locktite or something. Once there are out, replacing them (I did not use locktite or glue) it’s relatively easy to get the new ones in (no locktite or superglue), but man getting the original out is literally a fight and that was with the pin tool in a vise with a nut driver they use in the car industry. Without the tool I wouldn’t even bother and just buy new shafts or CVD’s.
With only a vise like some Youtube vids show…

 

[Surchaufeur]

i think the key is to use a large bench vise..i did about 6 drive shafts..it was easy

I have a rrgular sized vise and i use a metal tube to give extra leverage.
Another thing is if ur vise is bolted into a big heavy table mike is on the garage floor atm

I also have Mugen Seiki C270 and C271 to replace for pins. I also have a replacement tool, but even with that it’s takes a lot of blood, tears and sweat to get the original pin out. I used heat, because it feels like the original pins are superglued or permanent locktite or something. Once there are out, replacing them (I did not use locktite or glue) it’s relatively easy to get the new ones in (no locktite or superglue), but man getting the original out is literally a fight and that was with the pin tool in a vise with a nut driver they use in the car industry. Without the tool I wouldn’t even bother and just buy new shafts or CVD’s.
With only a vise like some Youtube vids show…

Yeah the new ones go in pretty easy

 

[jkflow]

Trick for the old ones is to grind down a little on the still visible section to reduce the diameter. These are press fit and no glue etc is in play.
Still a pita on initial push out but with reduced diameter it gets easier as it comes out.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Trick for the old ones is to grind down a little on the still visible section to reduce the diameter. These are press fit and no glue etc is in play.
Still a pita on initial push out but with reduced diameter it gets easier as it comes out.

Mine were half gone still was a pain

 

[jkflow]

If it's not a pain, you have to throw away that driveshaft (no joke). I had a pin fall right through after getting the old one out = new driveshaft.

 

[Surchaufeur]

If it's not a pain, you have to throw away that driveshaft (no joke). I had a pin fall right through after getting the old one out = new driveshaft.

When i said it was pretty easy i meant it took less swearing and sweat to get it in lol, i still had to put a lot of leverage on the vice.. a 1 meter metal tube

 

[parcou]

I also have Mugen Seiki C270 and C271 to replace for pins. I also have a replacement tool, but even with that it’s takes a lot of blood, tears and sweat to get the original pin out. I used heat, because it feels like the original pins are superglued or permanent locktite or something. Once there are out, replacing them (I did not use locktite or glue) it’s relatively easy to get the new ones in (no locktite or superglue), but man getting the original out is literally a fight and that was with the pin tool in a vise with a nut driver they use in the car industry. Without the tool I wouldn’t even bother and just buy new shafts or CVD’s.
With only a vise like some Youtube vids show…

Thx

All has been great feedback. One set that needs pins replaced is MC2 for my KEXB. Avery told me today in an email they warranty up to 3x at 50% of the cost for new ones. Since he warranties his M2C parts at 50% cost replacement, I am going that way.

I had no idea of that warranty...

 

[Surchaufeur]

How i see it is would i rather spend 50 cents and a bit of time changing the pins for superior ones or spend 20-25$ on a apir of new axles or a sibgle one knowing it will wear the pins the same way and just as fast?

 

[Garcbomber]

When you’re running big boy long fireteam shafts, you learn to do these on your own

Green loctite or a tack weld in place if the hole gets oblong. GPM center shafts have had the toughest pins(no flat spots) I’ve seen, I weld my diff cups back to fill once those egg out and they just laugh at the hardness.

 

[parcou]

All good feedback on my post. I will soak it all iin...

What gets me in all this on the Kraton EXB 6S has the M2C driveshafts and M2C outdrives from day 1. However, I did go from 6S to all 4S, keeping the same HW 4985 & Max6 combo with a larger pinion. Before going 4S I did have rear bearings that locked and drag that did occur on the rear could have aided in the waer. I will warranty the dogbones

KEXB with M2C stuff has the eaten dogbones all around and only the rear outdrives show wear

When it comes to the Fireteam it is all STOCK. The dogbone pins look great, all 4! It is the rear only stock outdrives that are bad. So do I go M2C when Kraton stuff was all M2C on the rear outdrives? I'm keeping the stock driveshafts.

Pic above is an example of the Fireteam stock outdrives but perfect pins.

 

[Garcbomber]

Lots of miles left on that outdrive IMO, I don’t weld them back up until it’s near full pin diameter deep. Your rig though

 

[parcou]

Lots of miles left on that outdrive IMO, I don’t weld them back up until it’s near full pin diameter deep. Your rig though

Hard call never had pin issues. Most all sides look like this..then there is a lot of play/space more than norm before the meet and turn

Then the front looks like this

On the Fireteam they look like new pins but stock has eaten into rear outdrives

 

[joshludden]

Hard call never had pin issues. Most all sides look like this..then there is a lot of play/space more than norm before the meet and turn

View attachment 290805


Then the front looks like this
View attachment 290806


On the Fireteam they look like new pins but stock has eaten into rear outdrives

You can also swap the outdrives L/R to get some more use outta them

 

[Garcbomber]

Landing on power snap pinging that flat or flicking the throttle when it unloads the rear. I weld cups right on the diff assembly and smooth them with a thin wheel on a dremel.