An other solution is to use this and run it as a crawler
With that, shims and wear out gears is a past story
With that, shims and wear out gears is a past story
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I think I could 3D print that block ??????An other solution is to use this and run it as a crawler
View attachment 92544
With that, shims and wear out gears is a past story
I think I could 3D print that block ??????
I was thinking a 380 brushed motor would be plentyI can imagien how fast the printed plastic will be shreded Excepted if you use a brushed motor.
I was thinking a 380 brushed motor would be plenty
@ThoMz RC was it shimmed at 0.8 or 0.7mm under each sun? Was it two large one small? If so, that was 0.7mm.I had the problem even with the rear diff correctly shimmed.
I ended up making the rear LS by using the center diffs parts, then used a regular K6s diff in the center while I wait for a replacement for the rear diff.
3 or 1So my decision is which would be best long term:
1) V4 rear diff and input
2) Add shims to rear open EXB diff
3) Add LSD plates to rear EXB diff
Are there any other options? How would you rank these personally?
I think I would go 3, 2, 1 myself. ?
I don't even have one myself ? (yet!) I knew what the issue was as soon as I saw a picture of the underside of the new planetary gearGuys this is amazing information. I haven’t even gotten my Notorious or EXB (ordered both from LHS) but this community is phenomenal. You guys rock. Thank you for the great detective work and information. I am learning a ton and I appreciate each of you.
Yeah two large and one small on each side.@ThoMz RC was it shimmed at 0.8 or 0.7mm under each sun? Was it two large one small? If so, that was 0.7mm.
Arrma only would have chosen an open diff in the rear to benefit the handling characteristicsOther thought: I was curious why they didn't go with a LSD stock in the rear, I figured just cost, but now I'm wondering if they had issues with the rear being a LSD and decided to just shim it instead??
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