Kraton EXB Rear Diff Discovery ---UPDATES!!

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An other solution is to use this and run it as a crawler :ROFLMAO:

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With that, shims and wear out gears is a past story :ROFLMAO:
 
I can imagien how fast the printed plastic will be shreded :ROFLMAO: Excepted if you use a brushed motor.
I was thinking a 380 brushed motor would be plenty
 
I think the best option is either go LSD in rear or shim the open style with 0.8mm of shims under each sun gear.
Ive seem som lsd videos and it doesn't appear to change handling too much.
TT
 
I had the problem even with the rear diff correctly shimmed.
I ended up making the rear LS by using the center diffs parts, then used a regular K6s diff in the center while I wait for a replacement for the rear diff.
 
I had the problem even with the rear diff correctly shimmed.
I ended up making the rear LS by using the center diffs parts, then used a regular K6s diff in the center while I wait for a replacement for the rear diff.
@ThoMz RC was it shimmed at 0.8 or 0.7mm under each sun? Was it two large one small? If so, that was 0.7mm.
 
So I ordered shims yesterday. I’ve had no problems for like 20 packs. I drive less then one minutes in front of my house and boom. Rear diff is no beuno lol. Look at where it was slipping on the sun gear. It was barely making contact. Now I get the joy of hh warranty center. Here is the diff taken apart for other people to see. I took the front and center apart and they look fine.
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So my decision is which would be best long term:

1) V4 rear diff and input
2) Add shims to rear open EXB diff
3) Add LSD plates to rear EXB diff

Are there any other options? How would you rank these personally?

I think I would go 3, 2, 1 myself. ?
3 or 1

The LS planetary gear isn't designed to be run without it sitting on the LS plates. Regardless of how many are used, the open diff shims don't sit on the full face of the gear. It's a design flaw. We'll need redesigned planetary gears with a flush face to work in this new diff cup, or switch to LSD for the rear
 
Guys this is amazing information. I haven’t even gotten my Notorious or EXB (ordered both from LHS) but this community is phenomenal. You guys rock. Thank you for the great detective work and information. I am learning a ton and I appreciate each of you.
I don't even have one myself ? (yet!) I knew what the issue was as soon as I saw a picture of the underside of the new planetary gear
 
I
@ThoMz RC was it shimmed at 0.8 or 0.7mm under each sun? Was it two large one small? If so, that was 0.7mm.
Yeah two large and one small on each side.
0.1mm is one heck of a small tolerance though.
You're going to wear 0.1mm off of shims and gears in no time.
Anyone measure the LSD total spacing yet, including the slip plates?
READ:
I built a LSD when the stock started skipping using the parts from the center diff and now it's clicking!
I put it together flawlessly, with one big and one small shim just like the picture shows... I even used all the planetary and satellite gears from the center (the others were mangled).
I'll update when I get it apart.
Think this issue might be more that just a shim problem. ?
Other thought: I was curious why they didn't go with a LSD stock in the rear, I figured just cost, but now I'm wondering if they had issues with the rear being a LSD and decided to just shim it instead??
 
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Other thought: I was curious why they didn't go with a LSD stock in the rear, I figured just cost, but now I'm wondering if they had issues with the rear being a LSD and decided to just shim it instead??
Arrma only would have chosen an open diff in the rear to benefit the handling characteristics
 
For you guys that are rebuilding the diffs. What weight oil are you putting in the front and rear diffs? I think im eventually going to put 200-500k in the center. But i’m not sure about the front. I know a lot run 50/30. But i want to be able to wheelie on demand But still handle ok. don't want the back end to fish tail under full power and speed.

I did order the limited slip diff plates for the rear. Now i’m going to order some shims and diff oil.
 
It’s .1 on each side of the diff. So it’s missing a whole shim basically and that is enough to make a difference. On diffs that only have one shim like the outside of the 4s Kraton is you forget it the diff is toast in 5 minutes. The sun gears teeth are small they don’t mesh together very far.

for the comment about needing a smooth back to the sun gear that is incorrect. That’s why the open diff only gets one extra shim. People have said that can’t be right, how can one shim equal all the discs. Well now that I’ve seen it, it makes sense. The first two Discs sit in the back of the sun gear indents and only one dish is actually between the sun gear and outside diff piece. That’s why the one shim replaces the one disc. I’ll try to show in a picture. Also you need a disc type lsd tighter. The friction from spinning faster on one side is what tightens up and actually puts power back to that side. This is my observation
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Drove my truck for about ten minutes on 4s and the diff was destroyed. Took it apart and I had six of the .2 mm shims.
Arrma must not drug test and gets that labor on the cheap cheap.
 
Yeah this is pretty bad. Thank god for this forum cuz I don’t know if I would’ve realized this for a while. Probably would have rebuilt them with the wrong shims for a while.
 
Nice find.

BTW, Jason mentioned the shimming should be 0.7-0.8mm depending on the individual diff cup. The thermal expansion/contraction of the plastics as they're manufactured is not 100% predictable and consistent batch to batch, so that's why shims exist on nearly every 4wd vehicle. We're talking 0.1mm here.

My front diff is also not shimmed correctly on the ring/pinion gear, it's not a big deal. I ordered up all 3 shim types and will spend tomorrow afternoon shimming my diffs properly. I'll probably make a video on how to set it.
 
I understand what you are saying but if they know there is varying degree why do they all end up with .7 so far and not some with .8 and some with .7. Can you share what is going on with your front. It might help someone avoid a huge problem. The fronts show one of each shim so hows is yours different? Also what is the third shim you are taking about ordering is it a external shim? most people want to take care of this so you don’t end up spending money and wasting time so please elaborate and help us.

Also yes is only .1 but again thats on each side and they mesh the same gear assembly. Anyone who knows how finicky these dang diffs are knows leaving out an entire .2 shim CAN make the difference. Maybe not every single time but yes .2 in a diff like this with huge power motors being installed does make a difference. I think if it didn’t make a difference they would not have released a statement about it on Facebook I think they would just tell you to shim as needed. FYI I normally don’t post much but this has turned into a pain for a lot of people who just spend some good money on a new truck so this is important
Also the .7 OR .8 is something he posted after the fact on Facebook. If you look in the manual that comes in the box it specifically shows the 3 shims of two different part numbers that equal up to .8. It doesn’t say Anything about different combos or anything
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