Fireteam Fireteam...Well I thought I would get one, and give my Opinion and how I set mine up. Staying very stock'ish.

[SrC]

^^^
I ended up going with these braces. @parcou turned me onto these. He uses them. They shipped quick from a few miles away from me close by.
The price was way much better. And these are keyed to the chassis, and also clear the HB at the rear.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2345548425...pid=5337696215&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1

 

[SrC]

Mine was the same, center diff was grayish like that, I cleaned it out and did 300k .

Yeah FT Stock center oil is 200k.
Most other rigs get 100k as stock. Except for the Typhons if I am correct.
I ran out of 500k, so 300k it is for now. See how it goes. My gut feeling is 500k however. My Kraton, Mojave and Noto are all great with 500k.

 

[NorthernCrawlerado]

Is it possible the Arrma factory puts the RTR cars together out of junk or returned vehicle parts? The bent driveshaft and dirty center diff have me thinking that the Chinese are engaging in a little "creative market approaches" to RTR cars because RTR noobs won't notice they're getting factory-floor dregs.

 

[SrC]

Let me know if you find any premade ones. I’m too lazy to order some Kydex. I had a spare pair of TBone Mojave ones but they are too short for the Kraton arms of the Fireteam.

I did a custom 1/6 Buggy build with a Mojave chassis and Kraton arms last year. This was even before the FT was relaeased. I modded/ drill holes to a pair of RPM Mud guards designed for the V4 RPM Arms to fit the V5 rear Kraton arms. They are nice and wide. But lower than the T-Bones, that I also have. Work fine. They are as tall as the Camber links.

 

[parcou]

View attachment 261709

Front center driveshaft is bent..............

I posted a question a while back if that amount of wobble you have is bad or good...or OK to keep bashing with. So what did you do....warranty it for a replacement?

Since I've been posting in your thread, might as well keep going.

Man, I love this thing. Didn't think I would, but the size of it along with the ground clearance make it fun to drive around the neighborhood. I put an 18T pinion with the MAX6 combo and didn’t notice any excessive heat issues - but it is 40F out.

I am overjoyed so many are getting the FT. I am so happy with the post and new YT videos. For what it is, it's a good bashing rig. Hell, those who got it for $399....it was a steal!

Keep the post coming love to see all this feedback

Let me know if you find any premade ones. I’m too lazy to order some Kydex. I had a spare pair of TBone Mojave ones but they are too short for the Kraton arms of the Fireteam.

I put these on:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/154894725775

I am not as skilled as SRC, LOL

TBH, The $400. price tag is what made it for me. The pros and the cons I'll accept at this pricepoint.
I would have never ever gotten a FT otherwise .
The cheaped out SLT3 radio and Firma Electrics, was always a saw point for me. No bargain at the MAP original price.
I was always leaning to getting a FT Roller if it was ever available.

IKR....never gotten a FT. So glad you did... It's a fun rig can't wait until you get some bashes in!

 

[SrC]

Is it possible the Arrma factory puts the RTR cars together out of junk or returned vehicle parts? The bent driveshaft and dirty center diff have me thinking that the Chinese are engaging in a little "creative market approaches" to RTR cars because RTR noobs won't notice they're getting factory-floor dregs.

Hey at this point anything is possible.

Now that I see many have what appears to be used or broken in FT Metal Center diffs, that the factory must be testing these metal center diffs out or testing the Handbrake under Throttle perhaps??? That would surely cause the darkened oil. Manual states not to throttle with HB engaged?
I have spooled up diffs by hand in a drill before. To test them out, for a break-in of a tight diff, or for troubleshooting reasons. Maybe the factory does this. But why only the Center diffs? Not the front and rear diffs?

 

[NorthernCrawlerado]

Hey at this point anything is possible.

Now that I see many have what appears to be used or broken in FT Metal Center diffs, that the factory must be testing these metal center diffs out or testing the Handbrake under Throttle perhaps??? That would surely cause the darkened oil. Manual states not to throttle with HB engaged?
I have spooled up diffs by hand in a drill before. To test them out, for a break-in of a tight diff, or for troubleshooting reasons. Maybe the factory does this. But why only the Center diffs? Not the front and rear diffs?

My guess is that the production is so fast that they don't take the time to break in the diffs at the end of the vehicle, figuring out that they'll get slammed into a tree by some spoiled American 13-year-old 9 seconds after he discovers "FULL THROTTLE" means FULL EFFIN' THROTTLE like some squid on a GSXR1400 10 seconds after he leaves the dealership.

 

[slick2500]

I posted a question a while back if that amount of wobble you have is bad or good...or OK to keep bashing with. So what did you do....warranty it for a replacement?



I am overjoyed so many are getting the FT. I am so happy with the post and new YT videos. For what it is, it's a good bashing rig. Hell, those who got it for $399....it was a steal!

Keep the post coming love to see all this feedback



I put these on:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/154894725775

I am not as skilled as SRC, LOL



IKR....never gotten a FT. So glad you did... It's a fun rig can't wait until you get some bashes in!

Yes I contacted Horizon Hobby about it, the are sending me a set of drive shafts. But I am pretty sure that it is the diff cup. So once I get done checking the rear diff and shocks I'll tear out the front gearbox since it's junk with the stripped out hole for the cover and replace it with an old style diff cup.

 

[RCbuzz]

@slick2500, no Film on the body like you would see on a Clear paintable body, if that is what you mean.
Out the box it had a loose plastic layed over for packaging protection, FWIW?

FT Update.

- Rebuilt all 3 diffs. All 3 diffs were low on oil as usual. Factory used one shim ( main gear side) on each F and R diff. I easily fit 2 shims each. Using the included bagged spare shims
I used 60K Fr/300k C/30k Rr.

>>>>One disturbing issue I noticed was with the Center diff:<<<

The oil was dark like it was USED already! See the pix below.


The stock satellite gear shims were scored and worn. How could this be?
The F and R diff oils were clear like new, as unused diffs would appear. Not the center one!
It was never run before! At least by me.

Reading the manual it clearly states that you never operate the Handbrake when throttling ( For or Rev) This will ruin the center diff causing undue wear/shock loads to it.
I can clearly see why Arrma installed the Metal diff at the center. I am sure including the Metal diff was an afterthought Necessity part after testing it and before production. Arrma never includes the Option Part Metal diff with their RTR's because they are so nice and gracious, IMHO. HB does a number on the center diff.
That HB is not any great revelation. HB is not even needed for off road use. Simple Throttling and Steering can yield the same results IMO. Per the many Reviews. Some reviews never even mention the HB. Other said it was removed completely. At the very least, I will try it. Then unplug the HB servo till I get a proper C block. HB mount is integral with a HB specific C-block.
Has anyone noticed how badly the plastic HB mount twists and distorts when operated? And there is no provision for setting the 3rd Channels's Endpoints with the SLT3. What a crappy HB!!!! Also I can hear a buzzing whine when the Brake is not engaged while you have it throttled. Sounds like my Nitro rigs Brake. The braked disc spins fast between the Brake shoes, causing a high pitched buzzing frequency. All FT's uniquely sound like this.

-I noticed my Rear Bulk head was stripped at the bottom ( 2 M4 chassis FH screws), unfortunately nothing new here .

-It is wise to use longer M3 FH screws backed with nuts at the leading and trailing edges/ends of both L and R chassis side guards.
One Review stated that the short screws pull out in these areas. Makes sense. What I did.

- The Firma 2050 motor is garbage. It screams violently sitting unmeshed to the Spur. Horrible. Sounds like it's an old well used motor ready to die. I will Warranty that absolutley. I am getting a HH warranty list together.
I suggest to anyone to check theirs. While the motor is unmeshed. BLX motors should always Hum very quietly. At least when new.
Despite lubing it and checking it over, no change. Motor is junk. Again it's New and never ran before.
It sounds horrible. I am tempted to show a video in regards. It is that bad.

-My FT droop screws have 2 washers on each and were bottomed out. I felt the need to adjust my droop. Or the Shocks End's will absolutely snap off. Basically I made all 4 droop screws threaded ends "even"/level with the top of the arms. My better judgement says Droop needs to adjusted, despite how they come from the factory. Should be set up like any Kraton rig.

- I didn't want to do it, but I will top off the shocks. Maybe even rebuild all 4 for what its worth. Staying with stock Oil and pistons.
They are all low on oil. I can hear the air squishing within all 4 of them at only half Compression stroke.

I can see that the the FT has been a mixed bag, assembly wise, for many. Just what I come to expect these days with Arrma.
I won't cry much about it. I only paid $400.
Getting a long list together for HH.
Nothing new here.


Below is the Center metal diff with OIL that looked like it was used. The satellite gear shims, were worn and well scored. Clearly not a new unused diff here.
View attachment 261710

View attachment 261711
Below is the center diff with 300k oil bleeding out air inside my Tamiya Shock pump.
View attachment 261713

Thanks for the update @SrC! I know this sounds odd but your center diff looking used out of the box is becoming a normal thing. I can't help but wonder if they are testing that diff at the factory somehow. Maybe because of the HB or maybe because of out of box center diff failures in the past?

How did the front and rear diff rebuild go (internals?). Was really hoping to see your process for when I crack into mine .

Also, the factory stripped out the stock gearbox case!?!? This is really frustrating, I didnt even know this was a thing... And let me guess, when the user rips out the gearbox on the second run it was excessive wear

 

[Dan B.]

. Uses the smaller 3mm screw. I just flipped the FT EXB top plate upside down using the smaller 3mm hole in the Top plate. I could have drilled out and tapped a 4mm screw. But didn't care to do that. Not going the extra mile with this rig.

I was on my 4th 6s Arrma before I realized the top plate could be flipped over for the different size braces. I drilled and tapped on the first occasion and then replaced the other top plates entirely. I had a serious eye roll situation when I discovered your trick. One of the many things a noob will find difficult to figure out without being told. That’s why this is such an outstanding forum, so much knowledge and experience here. A truly invaluable resource for any Arrma owner.

 

[SrC]

Yes I contacted Horizon Hobby about it, the are sending me a set of drive shafts. But I am pretty sure that it is the diff cup. So once I get done checking the rear diff and shocks I'll tear out the front gearbox since it's junk with the stripped out hole for the cover and replace it with an old style diff cup.

Been there so many times with other 6s Arrma rigs.....
My TLRT was absolutely the best example of their 6s rigs. Near perfect. I was dumbfounded. Like how could this be?
Like it was a prototype built by JD himself at Arrma, Uk.
A fluke. Probably built on a Wednesday at best.
Maybe even built in Taiwan at The Losi Factory.
If only every Arrma rig was built that well. I just got lucky.....

Edited.

 

[slick2500]

Been there so many times with other 6s Arrma rigs.....
My TLRT was absolutely the best example of their 6s rigs. Near perfect. I was dumbfounded. Like how could this be?
Like it was a prototype built by JD himself at Arrma, Uk.
A fluke. Probably built on a Wednesday at best.
Maybe even built in Taiwan at The Losi Factory.
If only every Arrma rig was built that well. I just got lucky.....

Edited.

I'm working on my own thread because my list of issues is getting rather long.

 

[SrC]

I don't mind if you hijack my thread.

Def. link your thread here.

FWIW, regarding the Crappy Safe-D input cups, they destroy the Outer and Inner input gear's BB's real fast, because they Wobble "off-center" so badly.
Literally Melted the plastic of a whole Bulkhead due to this. The BB's were fairly new TRBRC's and personally well lubed.

Weebles Wobble and they all fall down.

Edited.

 

[RCbuzz]

I'm working on my own thread because my list of issues is getting rather long.

Kind of nice to see all the issues together

Are we really that unlucky? I am thinking places like JennysRC would suffer big time since they just break them down and sell the parts. But pretty much all the parts I have ever bought from them were .

 

[SrC]

I have gotten bad diffs/bulkhead assy's from JennysRC before. And some stripped parts as well. A bad DOA BLX 150 ESC as well. Ted at Jennys made good on it. Not Jennys fault. JennysRc is well aware of Arrma's limited quality.
I always open up and examine all the diffs, gear by gear. And replace the oil, cleaning out everything first. Starting from scratch. I toss the crappy soft metal stocker Satellite and Sun gear shims and use the Mugen Seiki's. Durabilty increases twofold, just doing this. The Mugen Sun gear shims are as wide as the Sun gear. Having the same diameter. That alone means alot. And less chance for the Sun gear's Pins to snap/bend. The Sun gears won't rock. Gears stay aligned better under high loads.
Just topping off a new diff with oil is not enough. Can't be lazy about this. I got burned this way.

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/...ear-diff-causing-the-diff-cup-to-break.15168/

 

[slick2500]

I don't mind if you hijack my thread.

Def. link your thread here.

FWIW, regarding the Crappy Safe-D input cups, they destroy the Outer and Inner input gear's BB's real fast, because they Wobble "off-center" so badly.
Literally Melted the plastic of a whole Bulkhead due to this. The BB's were fairly new TRBRC's and personally well lubed.

Weebles Wobble and they all fall down.

Edited.

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/slicks-fireteam-6s-blx.58080/

I still have all these old style ones.

 

[SrC]

I would run them. No issue.
If you plan on removing the HB at at some point, use it at the rear also.

 

[slick2500]

Yes I contacted Horizon Hobby about it, the are sending me a set of drive shafts. But I am pretty sure that it is the diff cup. So once I get done checking the rear diff and shocks I'll tear out the front gearbox since it's junk with the stripped out hole for the cover and replace it with an old style diff cup.

Driveshaft still wobbles not the SafeD cup.

 

[SrC]

For guys Not moving the FT Lipo tray rearward, you will find that the center Cross velcro strap is too close for comfort directly against the Spur gear. And the strap can get all chewed up. Happened to my Mojave which I chose to keep the Lipo tray in the forward stock position. The best way around this is to loop the center strap from within the lipo tray, not outside of it. Problem solved. My FT has the tray rearward now.
I'll show pix of my Mojave if anyone needs to see this better.

 

[slick2500]

For guys Not moving the FT Lipo tray rearward, you will find that the center Cross velcro strap is too close for comfort directly against the Spur gear. And the strap can get all chewed up. Happened to my Mojave which I chose to keep the Lipo tray in the forward stock position. The best way around this is to loop the center strap from within the lipo tray, not outside of it. Problem solved. My FT has the tray rearward now.
I'll show pix of my Mojave if anyone needs to see this better.

I noticed this, the only thing that really kept it away from the spur was the center diff top cap.