Fireteam Fireteam...Well I thought I would get one, and give my Opinion and how I set mine up. Staying very stock'ish.

[SrC]

@slick2500, no Film on the body like you would see on a Clear paintable body, if that is what you mean.
Out the box it had a loose plastic layed over for packaging protection, FWIW?

FT Update.

- Rebuilt all 3 diffs. All 3 diffs were low on oil as usual. Factory used one shim ( main gear side) on each F and R diff. I easily fit 2 shims each. Using the included bagged spare shims
I used 60K Fr/300k C/30k Rr.

>>>>One disturbing issue I noticed was with the Center diff:<<<

The oil was dark like it was USED already! See the pix below.


The stock satellite gear shims were scored and worn. How could this be?
The F and R diff oils were clear like new, as unused diffs would appear. Not the center one!
It was never run before! At least by me.

Reading the manual it clearly states that you never operate the Handbrake when throttling ( For or Rev) This will ruin the center diff causing undue wear/shock loads to it.
I can clearly see why Arrma installed the Metal diff at the center. I am sure including the Metal diff was an afterthought Necessity part after testing it and before production. Arrma never includes the Option Part Metal diff with their RTR's because they are so nice and gracious, IMHO. HB does a number on the center diff.
That HB is not any great revelation. HB is not even needed for off road use. Simple Throttling and Steering can yield the same results IMO. Per the many Reviews. Some reviews never even mention the HB. Other said it was removed completely. At the very least, I will try it. Then unplug the HB servo till I get a proper C block. HB mount is integral with a HB specific C-block.
Has anyone noticed how badly the plastic HB mount twists and distorts when operated? And there is no provision for setting the 3rd Channels's Endpoints with the SLT3. What a crappy HB!!!! Also I can hear a buzzing whine when the Brake is not engaged while you have it throttled. Sounds like my Nitro rigs Brake. The braked disc spins fast between the Brake shoes, causing a high pitched buzzing frequency. All FT's uniquely sound like this.

-I noticed my Rear Bulk head was stripped at the bottom ( 2 M4 chassis FH screws), unfortunately nothing new here .

-It is wise to use longer M3 FH screws backed with nuts at the leading and trailing edges/ends of both L and R chassis side guards.
One Review stated that the short screws pull out in these areas. Makes sense. What I did.

- The Firma 2050 motor is garbage. It screams violently sitting unmeshed to the Spur. Horrible. Sounds like it's an old well used motor ready to die. I will Warranty that absolutley. I am getting a HH warranty list together.
I suggest to anyone to check theirs. While the motor is unmeshed. BLX motors should always Hum very quietly. At least when new.
Despite lubing it and checking it over, no change. Motor is junk. Again it's New and never ran before.
It sounds horrible. I am tempted to show a video in regards. It is that bad.

-My FT droop screws have 2 washers on each and were bottomed out. I felt the need to adjust my droop. Or the Shocks End's will absolutely snap off. Basically I made all 4 droop screws threaded ends "even"/level with the top of the arms. My better judgement says Droop needs to adjusted, despite how they come from the factory. Should be set up like any Kraton rig.

- I didn't want to do it, but I will top off the shocks. Maybe even rebuild all 4 for what its worth. Staying with stock Oil and pistons.
They are all low on oil. I can hear the air squishing within all 4 of them at only half Compression stroke.

I can see that the the FT has been a mixed bag, assembly wise, for many. Just what I come to expect these days with Arrma.
I won't cry much about it. I only paid $400.
Getting a long list together for HH.
Nothing new here.


Below is the Center metal diff with OIL that looked like it was used. The satellite gear shims, were worn and well scored. Clearly not a new unused diff here.

Below is the center diff with 300k oil bleeding out air inside my Tamiya Shock pump.

 

[slick2500]

@slick2500, no Film on the body like you would see on a Clear paintable body, if that is what you mean.
Out the box it had a loose plastic layed over for packaging protection, FWIW?

FT Update.

- Rebuilt all 3 diffs. All 3 diffs were low on oil as usual. Factory usd one shim on each F and R diff. I easily fit 2 shims each. Using the inlcuded bagged spare shims
I used 60K/300k/30k.

>>>>One disturbing issue I noticed was with the Center diff:<<<

The oil was dark like it was USED already! See the pix below.
The stock satellite gear shims were scored and worn. How could this be?
The F and R diff oils were clear like new, as unused diffs would appear. Not the center one!
It was never run before! At least by me.

Reading the manual it clearly states that you never operate the Handbrake when throttling ( For or Rev) This will ruin the center diff causing undue wear/shock loads to it.
I can cleary see why Arrma installed the Metal diff at the center. I am sure including the Metal diff was an afterthought part after testing it and before production. Arrma never includes the Optin Part Metal diff with their RTR's because they are so nice and gracious, IMHO.
That HB is not any great revelation. HB is not even needed for off road use. Simple Throttling and Steering can yield the same results IMO. Per the many Reviews. Some reviews never even mention the HB. Other said it was removed completely. At the very least, I will try it. Then unplug the HB servo till I get a proper C block. HB mount is integral with a HB specific C-block.

I noticed my Rear Bulk head was stripped at the bottom ( 2 M4 chassis FH screws), unfortunately nothing new here .

It is wise to use longer M3 FH screws backed with nuts at the leading and trailing edges/ends of both L and R chassis side guards.
One Review stated that the short screws pull out in these areas. Makes sense. What I did.

- The Firma 2050 motor is garbage. It screams violently sitting unmeshed to the Spur. Horrible. Sounds like it's an old well used motor ready to die. I will Warranty that absolutley. I am getting a HH warranty list together.
I suggest to anyone to check theirs. While the motor is unmeshed. BLX motors should always Hum very quietly. At least when new.
Despite lubing it and checking it over, no change. Motor is junk. Again it's New and never ran before.
It sounds horrible. I am tempted to show a video in regards. It is that bad.

-My FT droop screws have 2 washers on each and were bottomed out. I felt the need to adjust my droop. Or the Shocks End's will absolutely snap off. Basically I made all 4 droop screws threaded ends "even"/level with the top of the arms. My better judgement says Droop needs to adjusted, despite how they come from the factory. Should be set up like any Kraton rig.

- I didn't want to do it, but I will top off the shocks. Maybe even rebuild all 4 for what its worth. Staying with stock Oil and pistons.
They are all low on oil. I can hear the air squishing within all 4 of them at only half Compression stroke.

I can see that the the FT has been a mixed bag, assembly wise, for many. Just what I come to expect these days with Arrma.
I won't cry much about it. I only paid $400.
Getting a long list together for HH.
Nothing new here.

Front center driveshaft is bent..............

 

[dure16]

The F and R diff oils were clear like new, as unused diffs would appear. Not the center one!

New FT here as well. And I saw the exact same thing - F/R diffs had clear oil but center diff oil looked dirty/used.

Maybe it has something to do with the manufacturing process for the aluminum housing. Leftover machine oil not cleaned off.

 

[slick2500]

Idk how people have issues contacting Horizon Hobby. I just got on the live chat and within 5 minutes had an email from them where to send all the info they needed to get the warranty claim going for a new center driveshaft. It took me longer than that to upload that video to Youtube.

 

[3x9rtse]

Mine was the same, center diff was grayish like that, I cleaned it out and did 300k .

 

[SrC]

^^^
@dure16 ,
I have many Arrma metal diffs here purchased as option parts separatly. Ie like them as center diffs. I cannot see how the oil would be Dark at all.
The Metal diffs are Anodized Red. So its not from the Diff carrier case. Oil darkening is from Gear metal wear. Normal with a diff, only if it was "Used" in some fashion. The Fr and Rr plastic diffs had clear clean oil in them.

Were all your oils also low?

View attachment 261709

Front center driveshaft is bent..............

Could that oscillation be from those crappy Safe-D input cups? A known issue with them. Have you removed the D shafts and rolled them on a flat surface? Mine were straight as an arrow. Might need the legacy older input cups to resolve that issue??? IDK. $M2C's$ being the better option.
The rear input cup appears to be the older legacy style due to the Handbrake Disk being mounted/floating onto it. Front has the Safe-D style. I notice the same wobble in my Front shaft. Rear one is slightly off. But both appear to have no clearance issues. Still not feeling it however.
I'll be on the chat soon enough myself . I have a long list.

 

[slick2500]

^^^
@dure16 ,
I have many Arrma metal diffs here purchased as option parts separatly. i like them as center diffs. I cannot see how the oil would be Dark at all.
The Metal diffs are Anodized Red. So its not from the Diff carrier case Oil darkening is from Gear metal wear. Normal with a diff, only if it was "Used" in some fashion. The Fr and Rr pastic diffs had clear clean oil in them.

Were all your oils also low?


Could that oscillation be from those crappy Safe-D input cups. Have you removed the D shafts and rolled them on a flat surface? Mine were straight as an arrow. Might need the legacy older input cups to resolve that issue??? IDK.
The rear input cup appears to be the older legacy style due to the Hanbrake Disk being mounted onto it. Front has the Safe-D's. I notice the same wobble in my Front shaft. Rear one is slightly off. But both appear to have no clearance issue. Still not feeling it however.
I'll be on the chat soon enough myself . I have a long list.

I will find out for sure once I get to checking the center diff.

 

[dure16]

Could that oscillation be from those crappy Safe-D input cups. A known issue with them. Have you removed the D shafts and rolled them on a flat surface? Mine were straight as an arrow. Might need the legacy older input cups to resolve that issue??? IDK. $M2C's$ being the better option.

I've had several crooked center dogbone cups. Best replacement option IMO is from the MT410. Fits perfectly. Part number TKR5075.

 

[SrC]

Tekno's input cups actually Fit???
I have an MT. Never thought of that.....
TY.

 

[dure16]

Tekno's input cups actually Fit???
I have an MT. Never thought of that.....
TY.

They sure do. I run them on a few of my Arrma 6S rigs. Way better than the stock part - always straight.

 

[slick2500]

I will find out for sure once I get to checking the center diff.

It's the diff cup........................

They sure do. I run them on a few of my Arrma 6S rigs. Way better than the stock part - always straight.

I think I have some of these. The old style diff cups were always straight, I haven't seen a single SafeD output cup that was straight.

Welp off to see if I can get these cheap assed red thread locked screws out of the motor mount.

@slick2500, no Film on the body like you would see on a Clear paintable body, if that is what you mean.
Out the box it had a loose plastic layed over for packaging protection, FWIW?

FT Update.

- Rebuilt all 3 diffs. All 3 diffs were low on oil as usual. Factory used one shim ( main gear side) on each F and R diff. I easily fit 2 shims each. Using the included bagged spare shims
I used 60K Fr/300k C/30k Rr.

>>>>One disturbing issue I noticed was with the Center diff:<<<

The oil was dark like it was USED already! See the pix below.


The stock satellite gear shims were scored and worn. How could this be?
The F and R diff oils were clear like new, as unused diffs would appear. Not the center one!
It was never run before! At least by me.

Reading the manual it clearly states that you never operate the Handbrake when throttling ( For or Rev) This will ruin the center diff causing undue wear/shock loads to it.
I can clearly see why Arrma installed the Metal diff at the center. I am sure including the Metal diff was an afterthought Necessity part after testing it and before production. Arrma never includes the Option Part Metal diff with their RTR's because they are so nice and gracious, IMHO. HB does a number on the center diff.
That HB is not any great revelation. HB is not even needed for off road use. Simple Throttling and Steering can yield the same results IMO. Per the many Reviews. Some reviews never even mention the HB. Other said it was removed completely. At the very least, I will try it. Then unplug the HB servo till I get a proper C block. HB mount is integral with a HB specific C-block.
Has anyone noticed how badly the plastic HB mount twists and distorts when operated? And there is no provision for setting the 3rd Channels's Endpoints with the SLT3. What a crappy HB!!!! Also I can hear a buzzing whine when the Brake is not engaged while you have it throttled. Sounds like my Nitro rigs Brake. The braked disc spins fast between the Brake shoes, causing a high pitched buzzing frequency. All FT's uniquely sound like this.

-I noticed my Rear Bulk head was stripped at the bottom ( 2 M4 chassis FH screws), unfortunately nothing new here .

-It is wise to use longer M3 FH screws backed with nuts at the leading and trailing edges/ends of both L and R chassis side guards.
One Review stated that the short screws pull out in these areas. Makes sense. What I did.

- The Firma 2050 motor is garbage. It screams violently sitting unmeshed to the Spur. Horrible. Sounds like it's an old well used motor ready to die. I will Warranty that absolutley. I am getting a HH warranty list together.
I suggest to anyone to check theirs. While the motor is unmeshed. BLX motors should always Hum very quietly. At least when new.
Despite lubing it and checking it over, no change. Motor is junk. Again it's New and never ran before.
It sounds horrible. I am tempted to show a video in regards. It is that bad.

-My FT droop screws have 2 washers on each and were bottomed out. I felt the need to adjust my droop. Or the Shocks End's will absolutely snap off. Basically I made all 4 droop screws threaded ends "even"/level with the top of the arms. My better judgement says Droop needs to adjusted, despite how they come from the factory. Should be set up like any Kraton rig.

- I didn't want to do it, but I will top off the shocks. Maybe even rebuild all 4 for what its worth. Staying with stock Oil and pistons.
They are all low on oil. I can hear the air squishing within all 4 of them at only half Compression stroke.

I can see that the the FT has been a mixed bag, assembly wise, for many. Just what I come to expect these days with Arrma.
I won't cry much about it. I only paid $400.
Getting a long list together for HH.
Nothing new here.


Below is the Center metal diff with OIL that looked like it was used. The satellite gear shims, were worn and well scored. Clearly not a new unused diff here.
View attachment 261710

View attachment 261711
Below is the center diff with 300k oil bleeding out air inside my Tamiya Shock pump.
View attachment 261713

Mine looks like that too but emptier.

 

[fozzy71]

....
BTW, This will be my winter rig and will probably trash this one. I never had a beater rig per se. This will be it. A cheap budget RC for me.

Ditto. I don't care for the body looks or weight but it does a good job of keeping the junk out of the chassis.

 

[SrC]

You know I felt the same. The Body is nice and tight fitting to the chassis. Will keep much of the muck out of the chassis.

Edit:
I need to make a set of rear arm mud guards.

 

[dure16]

Ditto. I don't care for the body looks or weight but it does a good job of keeping the junk out of the chassis.

The trade off for that is usually less airflow. Have you run into heat issues?

 

[Engineer]

Since I've been posting in your thread, might as well keep going.

Man, I love this thing. Didn't think I would, but the size of it along with the ground clearance make it fun to drive around the neighborhood. I put an 18T pinion with the MAX6 combo and didn’t notice any excessive heat issues - but it is 40F out.

 

[KevinC]

I really dig the angular panel look of the body.

 

[SrC]

I plan on running the 15t Speed gear, but I dropped the ESC Timing down to 3.7 degrees in anticipation of the resulting heat. It's fairly cold out right now, weather wise. Might not be an issue. I need a direct fan mount and 40x20mm Fan(s). The HS and stocker 35mm fan is lame IMHO. WIll run it for now. Hardly any CFM's. You can't even feel any air flow from it. ESC also needs a better fan.

Many reviews stated to Move the Lipo tray rearward. How I did it. @Rich Duperbash did this when he demo'ed his FT a year ago.
The Body is very heavy and the rig tends to nose dive a lot more in it's stock configuration.
I think nose dives will get the best of this body/cage. The rear bumper is very stout and rigid. While the front one so soft? Arrma should have designed the same Rear bumper to be used at the front.
I like how the cage slots/keys into the Front and Rear Shock towers. The body is structural to the chassis, unlike most other RC rigs.
Imagine driving the FT in full scale?

 

[Engineer]

Edit:
I need to make a set of rear arm mud guards.

Let me know if you find any premade ones. I’m too lazy to order some Kydex. I had a spare pair of TBone Mojave ones but they are too short for the Kraton arms of the Fireteam.

 

[SrC]

TBH, The $400. price tag is what made it for me. The pros and the cons I'll accept at this pricepoint.
I would have never ever gotten a FT otherwise .
The cheaped out SLT3 radio and Firma Electrics, was always a saw point for me. No bargain at the MAP original price.
I was always leaning to getting a FT Roller if it was ever available.

 

[KevinC]

I like how the cage slots/keys into the Front and Rear Shock towers. The body is structural to the chassis, unlike most other RC rigs.
Imagine driving the FT in full scale?

Yes, a nice feature.
The body can be tricky to fit if the chassis suffers even the slightest of bends. Fitting the pylons into the body skeleton……It’s good you’re going with the EXB braces.