Kraton Grinding while braking

Darvid

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Hi just seeing if anyone had had clicking noise when putting on the brake
Sounds like possible diff

However

All good under acceleration
Pinion teeth look good
No binding while turning the wheels by hand
Only while under braking

Before I tear the car down just seeing if there was a quick fix.
 

Diem Turner

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Hi just seeing if anyone had had clicking noise when putting on the brake
Sounds like possible diff

However

All good under acceleration
Pinion teeth look good
No binding while turning the wheels by hand
Only while under braking

Before I tear the car down just seeing if there was a quick fix.
Check your front diff. Under braking the weight of the car shifts forward and leans heavily on the front diff. It may need to be shimmed. You can move the pinion closer to the ring gear by putting some 8x12x0.1mm or 8x12x0.2mm shims behind the large bearing the input pinion sits on. If that's not enough, shim it from the side with 13x16x0.1mm shims (there should have been some included with the car if you bought it new). Try to get as much play out of the mesh ring/pinion as you can. You can test which diff it is by lifting the rear of the car up and moving it back and forth quickly to see if you hear any clicking. The same procedure as above would apply to the rear diff. Hope this helps :)
 

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Check your front diff. Under braking the weight of the car shifts forward and leans heavily on the front diff. It may need to be shimmed. You can move the pinion closer to the ring gear by putting some 8x12x0.1mm or 8x12x0.2mm shims behind the large bearing the input pinion sits on. If that's not enough, shim it from the side with 13x16x0.1mm shims (there should have been some included with the car if you bought it new). Try to get as much play out of the mesh ring/pinion as you can. You can test which diff it is by lifting the rear of the car up and moving it back and forth quickly to see if you hear any clicking. The same procedure as above would apply to the rear diff. Hope this helps :)
Great explanation bud!!! Love the details! 👍 😁 ✌️
 

Tex Koder

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Check your front diff. Under braking the weight of the car shifts forward and leans heavily on the front diff. It may need to be shimmed. You can move the pinion closer to the ring gear by putting some 8x12x0.1mm or 8x12x0.2mm shims behind the large bearing the input pinion sits on. If that's not enough, shim it from the side with 13x16x0.1mm shims (there should have been some included with the car if you bought it new). Try to get as much play out of the mesh ring/pinion as you can. You can test which diff it is by lifting the rear of the car up and moving it back and forth quickly to see if you hear any clicking. The same procedure as above would apply to the rear diff. Hope this helps :)

Great explanation bud!!! Love the details! 👍 😁 ✌️

Hear , hear!
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Darvid

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Check your front diff. Under braking the weight of the car shifts forward and leans heavily on the front diff. It may need to be shimmed. You can move the pinion closer to the ring gear by putting some 8x12x0.1mm or 8x12x0.2mm shims behind the large bearing the input pinion sits on. If that's not enough, shim it from the side with 13x16x0.1mm shims (there should have been some included with the car if you bought it new). Try to get as much play out of the mesh ring/pinion as you can. You can test which diff it is by lifting the rear of the car up and moving it back and forth quickly to see if you hear any clicking. The same procedure as above would apply to the rear diff. Hope this helps :)
Thank you ! Very helpful
 

dure16

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Check your front diff. Under braking the weight of the car shifts forward and leans heavily on the front diff. It may need to be shimmed. You can move the pinion closer to the ring gear by putting some 8x12x0.1mm or 8x12x0.2mm shims behind the large bearing the input pinion sits on. If that's not enough, shim it from the side with 13x16x0.1mm shims (there should have been some included with the car if you bought it new). Try to get as much play out of the mesh ring/pinion as you can. You can test which diff it is by lifting the rear of the car up and moving it back and forth quickly to see if you hear any clicking. The same procedure as above would apply to the rear diff. Hope this helps :)
Any tips for sourcing shims? I always have a hard time finding the right sizes.
 

Diem Turner

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Any tips for sourcing shims? I always have a hard time finding the right sizes.
Here's something to get you started. I just punched

8x12x0.1mm Shim​

into Google.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/sab-goblin-8x12x0.1mm-shim-4-sabhc462-s/p427892.
Any tips for sourcing shims? I always have a hard time finding the right sizes.
Oh that's right. Forgot where I got mine. I found them in the accessories section of a large scale ball bearing outlet. Under accessories they only had two things: shims and circlips.
 

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parcou

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Any tips for sourcing shims? I always have a hard time finding the right sizes.
All good tips above...

Here is a pic one of my 6S rigs where the input is shimmed...actually it is that way stock but I always check it when I put the diff back in. Check it for good mesh and remove excessive slop it you have any. Then add shims on the crown/ring gear side if needed as you put the diff back in to help move it closer to the input gear.

Shim in behind the input
1674426055674.png




AJ has a good video explaining shimming and talking about the above
 
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