Senton Hd input shaft

[chazekxt46]

Xtreme RC is working with a local gear manufacturing facility to put out hardened steel gears for pinion, Spurs, and differential input gears.

any info?

 

[vps1900]

Thanks megasty made one today

 

[fmaramara]

Awwwww crap.. if its not 1 thing its another... i take it the slipper is not suppose to look like this? Did a 3s run, ran great with the new input gear for about 10 mins on wet surface but it started sounding like the slipper was loose so i tighten it up but its making a high pitched whirring sound. I thought it was the input gear again but after taking it apart the input was fine. I open up the slipper and find this. Should i get another stock slipper or go with a metal yeti spur gear since im already here. I was holding off coz i have a 27t pinion 48p that i haven't tried and was worried the metal yeti gear would be too heavy for 3s on my 3800kv motor.. plus id have to get new 14, 17 and 27 t pinions in 32 p The red aluminum shaft was so hot, I couldn't touch it, hotter then the motor! i guess the friction of the slipper spinning on the friction disk created a lot of heat

 

[Bellicose87]

Same thing happened to mine on 2S, might as well start assembling the spur gear mod. I’m just waiting on the aluminum slipper plates. I tried running it with some synthetic slipper plates, it lasted about 3 minutes before the spur ate it and turned it into confetti lol.

 

[Megasty]

Awwwww crap.. if its not 1 thing its another... i take it the slipper is not suppose to look like this? Did a 3s run, ran great with the new input gear for about 10 mins on wet surface but it started sounding like the slipper was loose so i tighten it up but its making a high pitched whirring sound. I thought it was the input gear again but after taking it apart the input was fine. I open up the slipper and find this. Should i get another stock slipper or go with a metal yeti spur gear since im already here. I was holding off coz i have a 27t pinion 48p that i haven't tried and was worried the metal yeti gear would be too heavy for 3s on my 3800kv motor.. plus id have to get new 14, 17 and 27 t pinions in 32 p The red aluminum shaft was so hot, I couldn't touch it, hotter then the motor! i guess the friction of the slipper spinning on the friction disk created a lot of heat

The original reason I did the Yeti mod was that I melted every last plastic part on the slipper when I ran it with the blx185 system on 4s. But in doing the Yeti mod I ran into the aluminum slipper plate breaking like yours. I chucked that up to my awful driving with the truck. So I replaced it & stopped driving it like it was the end of days. I have plenty of 6s BLX trucks for that treatment. The metal spur is also too heavy for any 1/10 motor I tried, just as you said. I would try the plastic 32p Yeti spur first. The 1/10 motor should be able to handle it.

 

[fmaramara]

The original reason I did the Yeti mod was that I melted every last plastic part on the slipper when I ran it with the blx185 system on 4s. But in doing the Yeti mod I ran into the aluminum slipper plate breaking like yours. I chucked that up to my awful driving with the truck. So I replaced it & stopped driving it like it was the end of days. I have plenty of 6s BLX trucks for that treatment. The metal spur is also too heavy for any 1/10 motor I tried, just as you said. I would try the plastic 32p Yeti spur first. The 1/10 motor should be able to handle it.

Thanks! Ill head over to my lhs and pick up a plastic 32p spur gear 56 or 60T, i don't think it will be that big a difference between the 2 will it?

 

[Jerry-rigged]

I used the 56t. The BLX185 has the power to turn it, but I'd worry it will overload a 3650 motor. I am thinking of dropping a smaller motor in mine for a while, and I will probably drop to either a 60T Yeti or the stock 91t when I do.

Stock = 14t/91 = 6.5
Current = 17t/56 = 3.29 - twice the gear!
with Yeti 60t and a 14t = 4.28

I've not broke any slipper plates, but I've had trouble making 10 minutes without blowing tires or something... I am really thinking of dropping back to a reasonable 2s power system, maybe something in a moderate kv(3000-3500kv), 3660 size motor. Also, I have a 3000kv F540 I want to try in the truck just for giggles. Should make more power than the stock brushed system, but maybe not by much.

 

[Megasty]

Right now, I have a 100a HW with a 1845kv motor. I think it's a 3672 can. It the system from my Basher Sabertooth, good for 2-4s. It's the perfect system for this car. My kids can run it on 2-3s, while I can let it loose on 4s every now & then, with the stock tires. Nothing has broken on it since I dropped that system in it & my kids do beat the crap out of it. I also gear it with the 60t Yeti spur. It's the exact same diameter as the stock spur. I grinded the race for the center hole much more even this time so the spur is completely balanced.

 

[fmaramara]

Cool I'll go the 60T route if they have it, I guess it will depend on whats in stock or i might run stock till it blows up lol. I don't mind it breaking coz i like working on the car as much as i do driving it. I just hate paying for parts... those small cheap parts add up quick! I started back into RC's in February and ive been to the hobby shop almost every weekend that they take one look at me and whip out the Arrma box before I get the the counter, lol.

 

[fmaramara]

Ok so i did the spur gear mod in metal, i looked for a plastic yeti spur but the one the guy showed me was too big so i ended up getting a 60t 32p metal gear. Man it has some weight to it, gonna keep an eye on my engine and esc temps. I ended up fabricating my own spacer from a metal part of an ikea cabilet and a large washer. Welded them together then chopped down the thickness till it was about 5mm. Drilled out the inside till it was a bit loose on the plastic sleeve. Installed the slipper disc on both sides, did jerryriggeds alluminum can spacer popped that pin in using the inside of a pen i chopped awhile back to use as spacers for my custo. Wheelie bar which exploded btw after a few jumps. The pen trick is mu h easier then the magnet. Pop the tip of the pin is and then thread it , pich the pin and pull out the pen. I installed a 14t pinion ut grabbed a 17t if it wheelied too much. Test fit everything and buttoned her up, took her outside for a test run ald boom just a spi ning noise... i forgot to tighten the pinion!!! Take 2 and super spin but little movement, slipper was loose! Took it in tightened the slipper and went out.. it was too dark.. damn. Ran inthe house and wow its real torky im gonna burn out these wheels. So everything went smooth so far but well see tomottoe. I saw the alluminum slipper disc but thought it may be too heavy but now i think i have to go back and pick it up tomorrow. Thanks for all the info megasty , jerryrigged and everone else for pioneering ahead and making it possible for guys like me to smoothly do this mod without wasting time and money. Build time including fab of spacer approx 2.5 hours.

 

[fmaramara]

Went out for a test run. This is uncontrollable! Idid a few runs on the street couldnt do full throttle as the truck wont track straight. Cartwheels and wheelies no matter what speed, moving or launching. Snapped another input gear from the looks of it. Gonna loosen the slipper a bit. But temps wer really good.

 

[fmaramara]

Damage ....

 

[Jerry-rigged]

Dang!

As a side though - when these trucks were released, pretty much everyone (including me) were whining about the plastic diffs, saying how crappy they were gonna be, never stand to brushless power. Now here we are running 1/8 scale brushless systems. Blowing inputs, stripping spurs, cracking slippers, blowing tires up, but those diffs are SOLID! I have seen less than a handful ring/gear failures all across the interwebs...

Same for the plastic drive shafts. Lots of whining about those plastic sliders and u-joints initially, but I don't think I have seen a single one of those fail.

 

[fmaramara]

Made a new input gear. Welded a solid piece of steel from a screw of the same diameter as the axle after cutting off the screws on on the axle end. So the axle is the entire length of the input gear before chopping off the plastic part that normally snaps off. Then i cut the end off the input gear like in megastys mod and drill out the hole , then i slide the axle shaft all the way through into the drilled out input gear and drill 2 holes where each bearing rests on the input gear, one horizontal and the other verticle straight thru the welded shaft so instead of 1 axle pin i put 2 for more strength. I then assemble as per megastys mod. I spun the setup on the drill before fjnal assembly to make sure there was not too much wobble and it looked pretty straight and balanced after i heated the axle and adjusted it. Changed the bearings to sealed bearings from a traxxas kit. It was a bit tighter so i had to sand down the input gears plastic shaft to get it to fit. I assembled it but its too dark now to test it. Question about the metal spur gear and pinion, i noticed that its harder to push the truck than when i had the plastic spur in. I also noticed that its noisey as compared to the plastic spur, is this because its 32p or is my meshing too tight? Sorry i didnt take pics as i was trying to finish it so i could run tom.

 

[Bellicose87]

Snapped my input gear, think I’m just going to wait for the arrma version since it should be shipping mid may. Metal spur gear is just louder over all.

 

[chazekxt46]

Xtreme RC is working with a local gear manufacturing facility to put out hardened steel gears for pinion, Spurs, and differential input gears.

guess this is a no go?

 

[hattrick300]

@XtremeRCLadsonSC Any updates on the progress of the new gears?

 

[fmaramara]

The arrma hardened gear is suppose to be in lhs by now??? I just came from my lhs and they said any time now...

 

[chazekxt46]

we know this

 

[E36Mtek]

Had my first attempt at this mod last night and was pretty easy. Gonna have some fun today!! Thank you @Megasty