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Anthony jaques

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I'm doing a build on fireteam has anybody got any experience pairing a different brand motor to the spektrum 150 stock ecs specifically a 2000kv leopard motors I want to kv down gear up a little for torque less heat thank you in advance for any help
 
Welcome to AF!
Nice To Meet You Nicolas Cage GIF by Nordisk Film Finland
 
I'm doing a build on fireteam has anybody got any experience pairing a different brand motor to the spektrum 150 stock ecs specifically a 2000kv leopard motors I want to kv down gear up a little for torque less heat thank you in advance for any help
Welcome to AF 🤟
 
I'm doing a build on fireteam has anybody got any experience pairing a different brand motor to the spektrum 150 stock ecs specifically a 2000kv leopard motors I want to kv down gear up a little for torque less heat thank you in advance for any help

Welcome to the forums.

And to answer your question, yes you can use any non spectrum brand motor thats at least 4s capable, though I think the smallest motor I’ve seen paired with stock spectrum 150a esc is a 4268 motor.

Lower kv and gearing up is one way to help control motor temps, make sure you also get some fans for your motor as well.
 
Welcome to the forums.

And to answer your question, yes you can use any non spectrum brand motor thats at least 4s capable, though I think the smallest motor I’ve seen paired with stock spectrum 150a esc is a 4268 motor.

Lower kv and gearing up is one way to help control motor temps, make sure you also get some fans for your motor as well.
I'm actually thinking of going with the 4029 1730kv been seeing good stuff on it max amps is 140 and 22 v on motor just need to drill and tap to an m4 I like stock motor but I'm used to it even set punch up to7 I'm going through the whole thing and yes going with 2 40 mm on engine one 40 mm on ecs all on 12 v separately juiced at 3s for fans prob dkky 40×40×30. Pull pinion up to 14 maybe 18 and a 50k-500k-30k front center rear diff oils thank you for the help if you notice anything off with the above info let me know what you think I will post some picks as I build I've also seen people looking for alt body shells I'm taking a different approach with my own lexan sheets and a bit of hydro dripping
 
1730kv is the better option. The Leopard motor wont be much of any change at all. Work with the stocker 2050 motor first. I tested many stocker 2050 motors and they are only 1930 kv's +/-. FWIW.
I make sure to open Clean out and lube the motor BB's well. Regularly after 10-15 runs at a minimum. Your mileage will vary.
But I think you are better off dropping your gearing down and use some decent double motor Fans, 40mm, No heatsink at all. Toss that garbage. And use just a double Fan mount. Fans blowing directly at the Motor. (y)Motor itself is a heatsink by design anyway. A HS just slows down thermal cooling efficiency anyway. Giving much slower cool downs. Replace the ESC stocker Fan with a better one, while you are at this. Alloyed framed High speed upgrade fans are best.
I think maybe you failed to drop some Punch and Motor timing lower at the ESC's setting parameters. Have you overlooked this method of tuning??? Motor timing by default Is set way too high out the box IMHO. Higher motor Timing = higher motor temps, Fundamental things to do before even considering changing motors and all. The FT is the heaviest of all the 6s models. Drawing much amps, So heat is more critical.
You will get lower temps just doing the above. Summer temps make everything hotter. Hopefully you made sure you are running better Diff oils. Or at least topped them off when it was brand new. I run 60k fr/500k center Minimum/ 20-30k Rr. diff Oils.
Also the Center diff will normally run very hot due to its size and weight, and this contributes to hotter motor and ESC temps, due to thermal transfer through the Motor mount to the motor. My FT Center diff, even with 700k cst, gets as hot as 240F+. Get yourself a Temp Gun if you have not already. The ony way to check temps. Using your fingers is fruitless. Just guessing.
Need to be deliberate and precise when it comes to temps and assessing positive cooling results.
Keep the motor below 140-150F and the ESC below 140F. Your target for best results. Sometimes you just need to stop driving and allow a few minutes of cool downs You want to avoid The ESC from Thermal cutting. The ESC will flash steady Green when it does a Thermal cut off. Failsafe ESC protection. Once cooled down the ESC will reinitialize, and will drive. Just let it sit there with the fans running.

Welcome to AF.:cool:
 
Last edited:
1730kv is the better option. The Leopard motor wont be much of any change at all. Work with the stocker 2050 motor first. I tested many stocker 2050 motors and they are only 1930 kv's +/-. FWIW.
I make sure to open Clean out and lube the motor BB's well. Regularly after 10-15 runs at a minimum. Your mileage will vary.
But I think you are better off dropping your gearing down and use some decent double motor Fans, 40mm, No heatsink at all. Toss that garbage. And use just a double Fan mount. Fans blowing directly at the Motor. (y)Motor itself is a heatsink by design anyway. A HS just slows down thermal cooling efficiency anyway. Giving much slower cool downs. Replace the ESC stocker Fan with a better one, while you are at this. Alloyed framed High speed upgrade fans are best.
I think maybe you failed to drop some Punch and Motor timing lower at the ESC's setting parameters. Have you overlooked this method of tuning??? Motor timing by default Is set way too high out the box IMHO. Higher motor Timing = higher motor temps, Fundamental things to do before even considering changing motors and all. The FT is the heaviest of all the 6s models. Drawing much amps, So heat is more critical.
You will get lower temps just doing the above. Summer temps make everything hotter. Hopefully you made sure you are running better Diff oils. Or at least topped them off when it was brand new. I run 60k fr/500k center Minimum/ 20-30k Rr. diff Oils.
Also the Center diff will normally run very hot due to its size and weight, and this contributes to hotter motor and ESC temps, due to thermal transfer through the Motor mount to the motor. My FT Center diff, even with 700k cst, gets as hot as 240F+. Get yourself a Temp Gun if you have not already. The ony way to check temps. Using your fingers is fruitless. Just guessing.
Need to be deliberate and precise when it comes to temps and assessing positive cooling results.
Keep the motor below 140-150F and the ESC below 140F. Your target for best results. Sometimes you just need to stop driving and allow a few minutes of cool downs You want to avoid The ESC from Thermal cutting. The ESC will flash steady Green when it does a Thermal cut off. Failsafe ESC protection. Once cooled down the ESC will reinitialize, and will drive. Just let it sit there with the fans running.

Welcome to AF.:cool:
So what I'm hearing you say is I won't notice a big diff in the 1730 vs stock 2050 clean motor bearings every 15 or so runs no heatsink. Even with thermal paste?better alloyed mounted ecs fan I was going for 40×40×30mm dkky12v same on motor have really nice heat sink but u say it works better with fans only I do have a temp gun and diffs will be set at 50k front 500k center 30k rear my inquiry into the motor was interested in more torque my punch is at 7 and I would need tips or do research on timing as I did not mess with it the leopard 1730 had some good reveiws and it's longer so fits my duel heatsink 80 mm little tight on the 2050 but your saying it tests lower kvs? Did I understand thT all correct thank u very much for your input it will definitely slow me down a bit on this build more time to think it's funny you mention the lower kv cause Amazon's site does say 7000 rpm wich would be more in the 1700 kv interesting any more tips always appreciated
 
So what I'm hearing you say is I won't notice a big diff in the 1730 vs stock 2050 clean motor bearings every 15 or so runs no heatsink. Even with thermal paste?better alloyed mounted ecs fan I was going for 40×40×30mm dkky12v same on motor have really nice heat sink but u say it works better with fans only I do have a temp gun and diffs will be set at 50k front 500k center 30k rear my inquiry into the motor was interested in more torque my punch is at 7 and I would need tips or do research on timing as I did not mess with it the leopard 1730 had some good reveiws and it's longer so fits my duel heatsink 80 mm little tight on the 2050 but your saying it tests lower kvs? Did I understand thT all correct thank u very much for your input it will definitely slow me down a bit on this build more time to think it's funny you mention the lower kv cause Amazon's site does say 7000 rpm wich would be more in the 1700 kv interesting any more tips always appreciated
1700 rpm sorry
 
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