Granite Hot Racing Shock Bodies - Now Available

[scv484]

Front - https://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=ATF155AF08;c=1345

Rear - https://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=ATF155AR08;c=1345

 

[sadlerbw]

Eeeeenteresting. So, you keep the shock shaft and the lower mount/spring perch. The picture seems to have a new piston and some shaft seals as well. I can't tell for sure, but it almost looks like the pistons aren't pre-drilled with any holes. Color me curious.

 

[olds97_lss]

Wonder if they use bladders in the caps or if they are emulsion type shocks.

 

[bicketybam]

If they are as good as their metal driveshafts, RUN AWAY AS FAST AS YOU CAN. Honestly, I really don't like any of the HR aftermarket for the 3S line. Even the 17mm hubs have issues and the alloy for their stuff is as strong as straw.

 

[scv484]

It's definitely an "interesting" way to go......

 

[BashingBrian]

The price is pretty reasonable ..??

 

[AimlessRC]

Anyone actually try these? All 4 of my shocks are leaking... even after rebuilding them with new o-rings.

Might pop on them and Guinea-pig a set.

 

[Jeremy in WI]

Anyone actually try these? All 4 of my shocks are leaking... even after rebuilding them with new o-rings.

Might pop on them and Guinea-pig a set.

I'm not trying to talk you out of trying these, but I rebuilt the shocks on 2 3s rigs using green slime on everything I could and had great luck with it. Here's the video I followed - https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/razorrc-granite-4x4-blx-build.8166/post-94381

If you do get the HR ones, post up your experience!

 

[AimlessRC]

I'm not trying to talk you out of trying these, but I rebuilt the shocks on 2 3s rigs using green slime on everything I could and had great luck with it. Here's the video I followed - https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/razorrc-granite-4x4-blx-build.8166/post-94381

If you do get the HR ones, post up your experience!

I did the exact same process, minus stabbing my thumb, and I used the "good stuff" Losi lube instead of green slime, and they still leak. The large o-ring at the base of the threads wont seal into the upper shock body. It's like the bottom of the shock body has spread, causing the leak. It's the same on all 4 shocks.

 

[Yonic]

I always use green slime when i re-fill my shocks, sometime it holds 6 month without leaking, sometime it leaks the next day, coudnt figure out a reliable way to seal it. I feel the issue is the auto bleeding gap in the thread, it compromising the seal, so the further from it the bond between the two halves of the shock body, the better is the seal.

I’ve ordered the HR bodies, i’m eager to test them. it’s the only replacement to the stock shocks that keeps the original properties of the shocks, as it uses the stock piston and spring. any other option changes settings

 

[Jeremy in WI]

I did the exact same process, minus stabbing my thumb, and I used the "good stuff" Losi lube instead of green slime, and they still leak. The large o-ring at the base of the threads wont seal into the upper shock body. It's like the bottom of the shock body has spread, causing the leak. It's the same on all 4 shocks.

Did you put anything on the threads when you reassembled? I did plumbers tape on 1 set and they leaked. 2nd go round I put slime on em, which was a great end result, but I don't do enough of these to say it's what soleved my issue. I still think that there are some pretty bad batches of arrma parts kickin around.

 

[AimlessRC]

Did you put anything on the threads when you
reassembled? I did plumbers tape on 1 set and they leaked. 2nd go round I put slime on em, which was a great end result, but I don't do enough of these to say it's what soleved my issue. I still think that there are some pretty bad batches of arrma parts kickin around.

Just the blue good stuff grease...

 

[AimlessRC]

Shock bodies arrived today, and my 4 year-old and I bashed the crap out of the Granite today, and we picked up some green slime. Going to try them out with 80w to start... there are no holes in the pistons but the oil travels around them.

 

[bicketybam]

Shock bodies arrived today, and my 4 year-old and I bashed the crap out of the Granite today, and we picked up some green slime. Going to try them out with 80w to start... there are no holes in the pistons but the oil travels around them.

80 seems really heavy. Let us know how it goes ??

 

[AimlessRC]

So yea... 80 is too high, or rather not needed on these shocks. Stock shocks have 70 in them now, and compared to the HR bodies, I was able to put 50 in them and get the same "feel". This is probably due to the leaks, and sucking air into them.

Install is a breeze. Bleeding takes the most time. Turn and pump as you install the piston... cap it off... pump as much as you can... let it sit upright for 5 mins... take out the bleeder and compress slowly until no bubbles... pump again... let sit... pull the bleeder compress fully... install bleeder... done.

The shocks have about 10mm more travel than stock, which only helps if you land off-camber or are really pushing a corner. The bottom of the tires can lift about 12mm above the bottom of the chassis. This can be managed by not bottoming out the shocks when bleeding... but compressing oil only leads to blown o-rings or broken parts.

They look really nice... and adjustment for bash to offroad to street to track takes about twice as much time as fiddling around with clips. But the over-all build quality seems good!

I'll post up an install video in a week or two.
Oh! And for clarity. These shocks use the stock piston, washer and lock nut. The items pictured are a guide bushing for the opening of the bottom of the shock, 2 o-rings, and a white cap to keep the o-rings in place. The white cap sits at the base of the threads inside the shock body when fully assembled.

 

[ReDevil]

Copy pasta from other thread;

So I finally got around to building these. I used green slime anywhere there was an oring, and AE 55wt oil. Bashed it for a full pack yesterday, no leaks, very smooth. My ESC actually came unstuck for the first time, after some failed backflips, but no damage to the shocks. I think for the $40 I'd recommend them for a bolt on replacement alternative to $60 6s shocks.

Still haven't bashed the Granite more, it won't stop raining here lol
I do have it sitting on some clean cardboard, just to spot any leaks, but nothing yet.

 

[Yonic]

I’m pretty bummed about the extra travel, I assumed the point was to retain the original properties. You sure you didn’t used the rear shafts on the front bodies or something?

 

[AimlessRC]

I’m pretty bummed about the extra travel, I assumed the point was to retain the original properties. You sure you didn’t used the rear shafts on the front bodies or something?

Positive. Noticeable difference between front and rear. They are about 5mm shorter than the stock bodies, so you expose a lot more of the shaft as well.

Bashed it around the yard a bit today, then dropped it down to level the a-arms and tossed some Duratrax Picket STs on and ran it on the street pretty aggressively... they handle great! No leaks yet! I would imagine some limiting straps could be fabbed up if excess droop is a huge turn-off. Other than that I like having the extra travel for running through grass and jumping it.

They look so damn sexy too.

 

[olds97_lss]

Positive. Noticeable difference between front and rear. They are about 5mm shorter than the stock bodies, so you expose a lot more of the shaft as well.

Bashed it around the yard a bit today, then dropped it down to level the a-arms and tossed some Duratrax Picket STs on and ran it on the street pretty aggressively... they handle great! No leaks yet! I would imagine some limiting straps could be fabbed up if excess droop is a huge turn-off. Other than that I like having the extra travel for running through grass and jumping it.

They look so damn sexy too.

I like more travel on my trucks as well. Just be mindful of the fact that it's puts more strain on the u-joints/cvd's when at full extension.

 

[Wheels007]

So yea... 80 is too high, or rather not needed on these shocks. Stock shocks have 70 in them now, and compared to the HR bodies, I was able to put 50 in them and get the same "feel". This is probably due to the leaks, and sucking air into them.

Install is a breeze. Bleeding takes the most time. Turn and pump as you install the piston... cap it off... pump as much as you can... let it sit upright for 5 mins... take out the bleeder and compress slowly until no bubbles... pump again... let sit... pull the bleeder compress fully... install bleeder... done.

The shocks have about 10mm more travel than stock, which only helps if you land off-camber or are really pushing a corner. The bottom of the tires can lift about 12mm above the bottom of the chassis. This can be managed by not bottoming out the shocks when bleeding... but compressing oil only leads to blown o-rings or broken parts.

They look really nice... and adjustment for bash to offroad to street to track takes about twice as much time as fiddling around with clips. But the over-all build quality seems good!

I'll post up an install video in a week or two.
Oh! And for clarity. These shocks use the stock piston, washer and lock nut. The items pictured are a guide bushing for the opening of the bottom of the shock, 2 o-rings, and a white cap to keep the o-rings in place. The white cap sits at the base of the threads inside the shock body when fully assembled.

Well they are sexy looking...for shocks that is