Kraton Hot Racing shock caps kinda suck

[turn2burn]

So I couldn't justify spending that much on m2c shock caps but maybe I should have.
I'v got them now on my rear shocks for my kraton. The seal sucks as its just an o ring between shock and cap, cap has thin edge.
But you can't tighten the caps on too much or the o ring will deform. So the caps I have on now are not tight at all.

Anyone else running HR shock caps for an emulsion setup? How does one tighten these with out deforming the o ring?

 

[Senton_Prime]

So I couldn't justify spending that much on m2c shock caps but maybe I should have.
I'v got them now on my rear shocks for my kraton. The seal sucks as its just an o ring between shock and cap, cap has thin edge.
But you can't tighten the caps on too much or the o ring will deform. So the caps I have on now are not tight at all.

Anyone else running HR shock caps for an emulsion setup? How does one tighten these with out deforming the o ring?

This might be a dumb question but are you putting it down in the cap?

 

[jkflow]

Stay with stock, GPM/Integy/HR suck or do nothing better than stock.
M2C is ok if you do crazy jumps, but will do little for the typical 20-30ft high jumps.
In my opinion, all these fall into the snake oil category but M2C does actually improve it a little.

 

[Greengaunja]

Just so it's clear, which cap? HR does the actual shock body for 3s and caps for 6s. But I wasn't aware they had emulsion caps as mine are bleeders. And yeah, I had the same issue. Get some red RTV high heat gasket maker. Wipe inside of cap out really good with a degreaser(I used gas). Line a fine bead and walk the bead up 3-4 layers until it covers the last three thread lines(don't cut the cap nozzle, you want it that small for this and other things you can use it on). Let it dry overnight. Part of the problem is it bottoms out or oring gets damaged. As for keeping it from deforming, rub some shock oil on it. It deforms and pops out when it "catches" on the turning cap. Oil will help it slip.

 

[Surchaufeur]

From what i understood emulsion shocks mixes air with the oil to make one... so in theory our rc shocks are not always 100% free of air specially out of the box always saw this as a negative but now thinking about all this emulsion thing maybe its a good thing you have the advantages of bladder and the advantage if emulsion all in one? A part of me believe all of the hype behind those expensive m2c shock caps is all placebo effect. I could switch the shocks without telling yoou only difference is one is emulsion the other isnt and i believe you wont be able to correctly tell me which one was the emulsion.

 

[Dan B.]

It’s definitely a personal preference thing. I don’t like emulsion setups because when they get hot they can cavitate. I also prefer to tune my shocks with rebound so they are consistent at all four corners, and that’s practically impossible with an emulsion setup unless you have a shock/spring dyno. Do those even exist at this scale?
Remember way back in the day when KONI introduced their first gas shocks? Double-tube low pressure gas dampers known as “Sports?” Those were an internal emulsion design (permanently mixed gas and oil) and track drivers would throw them in the trash and go back to Bilsteins because the shocks would start to cavitate and just go away after a few laps. For some reason they remained popular for years with Ricky Racer street guys. You know, the ones who gave us 5” fart mufflers and 5° of negative camber?
Interestingly, the original line of non-gas KONI’s (hydraulic only, adjustable valving) haven’t changed in many decades and are still an outstanding damper.
Until someone comes out with high-pressure monotube digressively valved dampers for our RC’s I’ll stick with the stock dampers and tune them with oil viscosity and rebound.

 

[Garcbomber]

I usually just paint HR in silver on my stock caps to get the placebo effect

 

[turn2burn]

O ring going on shock at bottom of threads. I like the smooth action of them but sometimes they don't rebound the same. I'm going with 100w for rear and fronts are bladder that I would have to convert. I don't like the rtv idea but have paper washers or the bladders I could cut for seal. The temp changing the action onthese might be the final nail in the coffin. I just had such a hard time getting equal rebound on bladders. Also I guess I can't use the emulsion oil as folks say it has micro bubbles I can't get out. I'm not planning on sending it, just using heavier springs to compensate for heavier can to bring rear up.

 

[Dan B.]

O ring going on shock at bottom of threads. I like the smooth action of them but sometimes they don't rebound the same. I'm going with 100w for rear and fronts are bladder that I would have to convert. I don't like the rtv idea but have paper washers or the bladders I could cut for seal. The temp changing the action onthese might be the final nail in the coffin. I just had such a hard time getting equal rebound on bladders. Also I guess I can't use the emulsion oil as folks say it has micro bubbles I can't get out. I'm not planning on sending it, just using heavier springs to compensate for heavier can to bring rear up.

I’m using heavy springs, 70wt, with the bladders and I’ve have good luck getting consistent rebound. The bubbles in emulsion setups are impossible to get rid of entirely. One of the reasons why I don’t go that route. Same problem with the 1:1 KONI Sports.

 

[Senton_Prime]

O ring going on shock at bottom of threads. I like the smooth action of them but sometimes they don't rebound the same. I'm going with 100w for rear and fronts are bladder that I would have to convert. I don't like the rtv idea but have paper washers or the bladders I could cut for seal. The temp changing the action onthese might be the final nail in the coffin. I just had such a hard time getting equal rebound on bladders. Also I guess I can't use the emulsion oil as folks say it has micro bubbles I can't get out. I'm not planning on sending it, just using heavier springs to compensate for heavier can to bring rear up.

Well imo you are incorrectly placing the o-rings but I guess I could be wrong!?

 

[turn2burn]

Hum the only place the o ring fits is on the bottom of the threaded portion of the shock. Theres no room or the right diameter for it to fit inside the hr cap. Is there a trick Im missing can you show me please.

 

[Senton_Prime]

Hum the only place the o ring fits is on the bottom of the threaded portion of the shock. Theres no room or the right diameter for it to fit inside the hr cap. Is there a trick Im missing can you show me please.

I'm wrong, do what @Greengaunja said

 

[turn2burn]

I just hop no air gos in, its not like the mc2 caps with two washers.Been bashing today with the caps in the front with 80w the rare are stock bladders. You can definitely the back bounces and the front doesn't. Putting mc2 pistons the hot racing in the back soon. I hav fire team shocks but still slaps from 5 ft ish or maybe less. Emulsion take the bumps better I think, by back end was all over the place bouncy, and front had nice slow rebound.
But now I hear people put heavier weight in front and lighter in rear (which I was going to put 100w in). Heavy can. I gotta open the front HR caps and most likely dump some more oil in.

 

[turn2burn]

Ok Hot Racing bleeder caps don't suck, user error once again. 100/80 R/F. This is my first rig this size, 1/12 is all I'v done up until now.
Emulsion seems amazing at taking all the little imperfections, bumps etc. It takes it so well I can go insanely fast. The problem is Im just not a good enough driver yet.