Limitless How to setup your car for straight speed run?

[bkhlouf]

How to setup your car for straight speed run?
Any tips?, fall pits to avoid? Steps to setup the chassis, suspensions, height etc...

Please share your own experience, steps, videos...

 

[Prodrvr1]

I'd like to know as well.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

1. To avoid blow overs
Set the rear high and front low.
Set the rear spring pre-load as tight as possible.
Reduce the rear wing to lower drag and reduce the rear squat that may cause blow overs for your car.

2. Adjustments
Front and rear Camber should be close to zero or slightly negative leaning inwards, but not more than 1.5 deg.
Front toe should be slightly in but also just barely like 1-2 deg. As you get more skilled you can try adjusting to zero but this setting will be safer for getting started.
Rear toe follows the above. After getting some experience and reaching 130+ then look at reducing rear toe in with an aftermarket solution like EMP or others.

3. Balance and vibrations
Balance your GRP or Hoons tires (this is a must when over 100mph)
Put O-rings or nitro fuel tube in the outdrive cups to reduce the play in the dog bones (not too tight)

4. Practice practice practice
Never go out your first time and expect to hit 140
Gear for 80 then 100 then 120 etc.
I also recommend starting with GRP rubber tires until you get to 130mph then make the switch to foams.
Learn to read the data logs from the castle esc and post in the forum if you would like guidance.

I made a few short videos that go over some of these topics. Diff fluid is an open debate I have done locked, 500k, 1mill, 2 mill, and stock fluids.

 

[bkhlouf]

1. To avoid blow overs
Set the rear high and front low.
Set the rear spring pre-load as tight as possible.
Reduce the rear wing to lower drag and reduce the rear squat that may cause blow overs for your car.

2. Adjustments
Front and rear Camber should be close to zero or slightly negative leaning inwards, but not more than 1.5 deg.
Front toe should be slightly in but also just barely like 1-2 deg. As you get more skilled you can try adjusting to zero but this setting will be safer for getting started.
Rear toe follows the above. After getting some experience and reaching 130+ then look at reducing rear toe in with an aftermarket solution like EMP or others.

3. Balance and vibrations
Balance your GRP or Hoons tires (this is a must when over 100mph)
Put O-rings or nitro fuel tube in the outdrive cups to reduce the play in the dog bones (not too tight)

4. Practice practice practice
Never go out your first time and expect to hit 140
Gear for 80 then 100 then 120 etc.
I also recommend starting with GRP rubber tires until you get to 130mph then make the switch to foams.
Learn to read the data logs from the castle esc and post in the forum if you would like guidance.

I made a few short videos that go over some of these topics. Diff fluid is an open debate I have done locked, 500k, 1mill, 2 mill, and stock fluids.

Waooh!!! I was not expecting such detailed guidance. At least at my level of knowledge. This will help me to progress without any doubt. I will keep you updated on my progress

thank you so much

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Waooh!!! I was not expecting such detailed guidance. At least at my level of knowledge. This will help me to progress without any doubt. I will keep you updated on my progress

thank you so much

No problem, happy to help.

Speedrunning is hard and expensive. You have so many things working against you, at least I can help with a few of them.

Another thing I will mention is that the radio will be a limiting factor once you get up around 100mph. I have really been impressive with the radiolink RC6GS V2 found on Amazon for a very reasonable price. Better range than my Futaba 3PM or 3PV had.

 

[Prodrvr1]

No problem, happy to help.

Speedrunning is hard and expensive. You have so many things working against you, at least I can help with a few of them.

Another thing I will mention is that the radio will be a limiting factor once you get up around 100mph. I have really been impressive with the radiolink RC6GS V2 found on Amazon for a very reasonable price. Better range than my Futaba 3PM or 3PV had.

Being that I'm a stickler on this, what batteries do you run?

 

[bkhlouf]

Being that I'm a stickler on this, what batteries do you run?

ChinaHobbyLine CNHL or The Turnigy Graphene Panther

No problem, happy to help.

Speedrunning is hard and expensive. You have so many things working against you, at least I can help with a few of them.

Another thing I will mention is that the radio will be a limiting factor once you get up around 100mph. I have really been impressive with the radiolink RC6GS V2 found on Amazon for a very reasonable price. Better range than my Futaba 3PM or 3PV had.

I have the radiolink RC6GS V1. Any differences? Should I consider a range extender with this radio?

 

[LibertyMKiii]

ChinaHobbyLine CNHL or The Turnigy Graphene Panther

I have the radiolink RC6GS V1. Any differences? Should I consider a range extender with this radio?

From what I understand the dual antenna RX is the key to the range. If you have that RX I doubt you need anything more. I have heard of people pairing this RX with the other 4 channel radio and having excellent range. Same goes for Futaba radios evidently, but I like the price of these receivers and next day Amazon delivery for the RadioLink stuff.

Being that I'm a stickler on this, what batteries do you run?

In the Futaba 3PM-MX I was running a Turnigy nano-tech 3s lipo 2,500 mAh pack made for Futaba radios
On the RadioLink I have only run AAs so far and had no issues going to 1600 ft distance in one direction (3200ft total run) I am certain it will go further, but I couldn't see the car anymore.

For the car itself I have liked CNHL 70c packs. I think they should be the GoTo battery for any speed runner until you have reached your max and looking for that last 1-2 mph.

In the past with the Typhon and Kraton I used the Panther 6s packs and loved them.

I have used SMC True spec extreme V1 packs and had puffing issues. I am going to try the V2s now and fingers crossed they solved those problems, because the V1s didn't last much more than 8 months.

I use some Zeee 2s packs for my son's Traxxas Slash and even tried them in my Limitless for a 2s speed run.(2 of the 5,200 mAh 80c packs in parallel). For a short while it was the fastest 2s Limitless at 75mph but the Flo-Packs guy is now at 78mph. I plan to beat that record possibly this weekend or next (weather depending)

 

[bkhlouf]

From what I understand the dual antenna RX is the key to the range. I have heard of people pairing this RX with the other 4 channel radio and having excellent range. Same goes for Futaba radios evidently, but I like the price of these receivers and next day Amazon delivery

In the Futaba 3PM-MX I was running a Turnigy nano-tech 3s lipo 2,500 mAh pack made for Futaba radios
On the RadioLink I have only run AAs so far and had no issues going to 1600 ft distance in one direction (3200ft total run) I am certain it will go further but I couldn't see the car anymore.

For the car itself I have liked CNHL 70c packs. In the past with the Typhon and Kraton I used the Panther 6s packs and loved them.
I have used SMC True spec extreme V1 packs and had puffing issues. I am going to try the V2s now and fingers crossed they solved those problems, because the V1s didn't last much more than 8 months. I use some Zeee 2s packs for my son's Traxxas Slash and even tried them in my Limitless for a 2s speed run.(2 of the 5,200 mAh 80c packs in parallel). For a short while it was the fastest 2s Limitless at 75mph but the Flo-Packs guy is now at 78mph. I plan to beat that record possibly this weekend or next (weather depending)

?

 

[jondilly1974]

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

Ok I agree with 98% of what he says...

 

[rotauq]

1:23:12 he says that one word

 

[3d-rc.myshopify.com]

The radiolink v1 can be updated to the v2 firmware ?

 

[Notoriousone]

Nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

Ok I agree with 98% of what he says...

Raz's Speed Secrets video is like the holy grail of speedrun setup lol. I took notes watching it when it first came out, a lot of great info in there. The attached pics show how I setup my cars, pretty much the same deal as what others have said.. Get the front down and rear up using droop screws and preload, the lowest part of the front splitter on this car is around 7mm off the ground, the rear is about 15mm higher. Rear shock spring preload wound all the way down, pretty much firm as can be. the front springs about 60% firm as the rear. If the front splitter scrapes the ground just a little when you let off the throttle at speed its not a problem. I run 500k oil in the rear diff and 1 million wt. in the front diff. I feel this adds to the stability overall. Tires are a whole other topic, I'm just starting to get comfortable running foams after using GRP and the Hoons for awhile now. Heres a few pics of how my cars generally look with a speedrun setup

 

[SrC]

@LibertyMKiii Is the man.
Take heed in what he says. You will avoid the many pitfalls when speed running.
Raz Shifrin tells it like it is also. See ALL of his videos.

 

[rotauq]

@Notoriousone,
Love what you have done with the babyblue jaguar body. I would so much like to cut out my rear wheel arches, but aero above looks and this picture below kept me from it...

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Thanks @SrC for the kind words.

Another thing I'll add to this thread is that if money is tight, your money is best spent on a Caslte ESC and good LiPos (with good connectors).
I was able to hit 132mph on the stock BLX2050kv 6s motor running it on 8s with the MMX8s. I never got to reach full throttle, logs showed 94%!

From my perspective there is only 2 ESC options. MMX8s or XLX2

I don't have many images of it loaded up with Batteries, but this is one from a 119mph pass. 2 of the 4s CNHL 70c 6,000mAh packs in a Typhon GT
I have since upgraded to good connectors. I have seen people with xt-90s have them de-solder from heat. The BLX2050kv is very close to 1900kv and for speedrun uses it loves 8s!

Another example of the BLX2050kv running fast from Kenny:

 

[SrC]

Yes, that supposed 2050kv stocker is always around 1900kv on my motor analyzer. All of the ones I have. A great candidate for 8S running. I am using Hybrid Ceramics on 2 of them now. For high sustained RPM's, the stock motor bearings are the weak link out the box.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Yes, that supposed 2050kv stocker is always around 1900kv on my motor analyzer. All of the ones I have. A great candidate for 8S running. I am using Hybrid Ceramics on 2 of them now. For high sustained RPM's, the stock motor bearings are the weak link out the box.

Yep same here, I put those darn expensive Boca ceramics in it.
I have a routine of oiling the bearings after the 4th outing. Sometimes more often if it is going higher speeds. Adding synthetic bearing oil to any bearing makes a big difference.

I have seen a few people loose the rear shaft support bearings on the infraction/felony so I oil those between each outing. It is clear to see those make a lot of contact on the dogbone. (My Limitless started life as a Felony)

 

[SrC]

I'm just not a believer in the shaft support bearing. Well, I understand that it works, but I feel it's like a band-aid to an inherent problem being a long/too narrow rear shaft and all. Arrma should have revised the rear half shaft/Dog bone instead. But I guess a cheap bearing and plastic support was quick and cheaper to do.?‍ I just find that disappointing. I don't feel anything should touch a spinning driveshaft. You would never see that on a scale car.