Try the torx bit man! Find one that is JUST to big... tap it in solid... I'll bet you that it comes out! No need to try more drastic measures until you exhaust the easy ones!
Kraton I need help, motor slider screw stripped!!!
- Thread starter Sea Fury
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Just a hobby
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If you have a old L shaped allen wrench,( same size as stuck screw) with pliers heat it till it glows red. Then just hold to that stuck screw for a few minutes, should be enough to get a out with a good allen wrench.Holey crap
Yall are amazing, so many good idea's and I don't have time to quote you all!
THANK YOU!
Now I have a list of things to try, and upgrades to bolts to make, I will have to try the wing bolt setup, can't believe I didn't see that myself on youtube.
To the RPM wing mount suggestion, I already bought that at a local hobbyshop last week but when I got home realized it won't work with my wheelie bar, or my metal rear skid plate, so it's wasted money now, I may try to return it idk....
I wish it worked for me because it looked like it could help.
I just did another stock mount and 1 battery later both bolts snapped again.
Granted I was bashing at a wooden public skatepark doing back flips and what not on big ramps.
First removal attempt I am going to see if I can get vice grips on the motor bolt, but I highly doubt it will hold that thin button head screw.
I will also heat it first, with something.... I think I have a lighter lying around from when I quit smoking last Dec.......torch I don't have, soldering iron is packed away.....somewhere in a box, in my trailer
If that doesn't work, I'll go on to try heat and drill (on hand) and speed out/easy out/remover.
Hopefully that's as far as it goes.
Will replace with cap head screws, any strong brand recommended?
Drill bit,size correction 3/32 cobalt
Drill bit size correction, 3/32 cobalt bit. My bad
Sea Fury
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Update.
After replacing the pinion, I found I was wrong.
I did not pay close enough attention when I previously disassembled the entire rear end and dif.
There is a known issue with stripping the output drive gear.....
Now I have like 3 pinions I don't really need, though mine was looking pretty bad so it can't hurt to replace it.
I will throw the 13t on it when it comes next week, that should make the truck a tiny bit faster over the 12t right?
The real problem is the rear diff output drive gear and spiral spur on the diff.
The 10t output gear is worn down, as is the spiral spur gear on the dif, but does not look that bad compared to pics I've seen of others.
I figured it out by turning the center driveshaft cup on the rear diff with pliers while holding the rear wheels and it grinds and skips.
Of course, the rear diff spur gear is not available on Amazon at all, but the upgraded hardened steel output drive gear is Prime 2 day.
I want to do both to ensure a good new repair.
Ordered the Spur from Arrma directly, expedited shipping, hopefully it doesn't take forever with their shipping bs issues.
It says it will arrive by end of next week so we shall see.
Now I have my Kraton entire engine and rear end apart taking up all my new tiny work table.
And I still need to put the new 3s/4s ESC in the pos Senton to get it up and running.
Gonna look for more info on it's issue first....
After replacing the pinion, I found I was wrong.
I did not pay close enough attention when I previously disassembled the entire rear end and dif.
There is a known issue with stripping the output drive gear.....
Now I have like 3 pinions I don't really need, though mine was looking pretty bad so it can't hurt to replace it.
I will throw the 13t on it when it comes next week, that should make the truck a tiny bit faster over the 12t right?
The real problem is the rear diff output drive gear and spiral spur on the diff.
The 10t output gear is worn down, as is the spiral spur gear on the dif, but does not look that bad compared to pics I've seen of others.
I figured it out by turning the center driveshaft cup on the rear diff with pliers while holding the rear wheels and it grinds and skips.
Of course, the rear diff spur gear is not available on Amazon at all, but the upgraded hardened steel output drive gear is Prime 2 day.
I want to do both to ensure a good new repair.
Ordered the Spur from Arrma directly, expedited shipping, hopefully it doesn't take forever with their shipping bs issues.
It says it will arrive by end of next week so we shall see.
Now I have my Kraton entire engine and rear end apart taking up all my new tiny work table.
And I still need to put the new 3s/4s ESC in the pos Senton to get it up and running.
Gonna look for more info on it's issue first....
Sea Fury
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Update:
Kraton V5 6S
Still waiting on that spiral diff gear from Arrma.....
Finally found one on Amazon (Part numbers changed making it confusing)
Will be returning the Arrma gear, since they are so gd slow....
Got the new gear from Amazon today.
Went to disassemble the rear diff and found the pin on gear cup broken in 3 tiny pieces....
Another order to Amazon lol.
Once those pins come tomorrow, I will FINALLY be able to put it back together.
Other news:
Since this all started I bought a Big Rock (new) to go along with the pos Senton BLX I never should have bought.
I put a new 3S/4S Smart Spektrum ESC in the Senton BLX, it's working again!
Then I noticed the DS rear control arm is ridding higher than the rest of them.
That explains why it handles like dog poop and likes to spin out constantly!
Seems the shock is somehow shorter than all the rest, took them all off and measured them, they are all in the right place.
Tried to take the shock apart, and I stripped the shock body cap, and shaft cap keyed thing which is a pos design.
It won't open, pos.
Ordered new stock prefilled rear shocks from Amazon coming tomorrow.....
I NEVER should have bought this pos Senton, it's done nothing but cost me more money!
The Big Rock is ok, but I should not have purchased or played with it either, to late to send it back now....
It's just a Senton with different tires and arms really.
It does get a LOT less debris in the chasses when running on gravel/sand.
I should have got another 6S size vehicle....
I do plan to put the new 3S/4S ESC in the Big Rock later and eventually sell the Senton with the Big Rocks pos BLX ESC installed to get some of my money back on it.
Ordered cheap dust covers from Amazon for 2 Sentons to cover it and the Big Rock since they suck up debris like a vacuum in this swamp I live in now.
Also broke down and ordered an Xmaxx which got here 2 days ago and been waiting for my 4s batteries and accessories to arrive late.
It's all here now, roof skid, Traxxas light kit, dumbass Traxxas to EC5 adapters, and dust cover.
I run all Spektrum EC/IC type battery plugs (But almost entirely other cheaper brands batteries) and parallel charging equipment with my icharger DUO 308 (Love this setup!!!)
Not about to change to a new battery plug type with all my parallel charging gear.
Still deciding if I want to keep the Xmaxx or return it after all the video's I've watched showing it really needs a new ESC and steering servo at the least.
This thing is MASSIVE and cool as poop, but looks more and more like a money pit and I'm already $1450 into it just to buy it.
If it needs another $300-500 worth of ESC, motor, servo, and fans why the hell did I pay $1000 for it, also the radio is even cheaper trash than the Arrma RTR ones, if that's even possible lol.
Decisions decisions.....
Kraton V5 6S
Still waiting on that spiral diff gear from Arrma.....
Finally found one on Amazon (Part numbers changed making it confusing)
Will be returning the Arrma gear, since they are so gd slow....
Got the new gear from Amazon today.
Went to disassemble the rear diff and found the pin on gear cup broken in 3 tiny pieces....
Another order to Amazon lol.
Once those pins come tomorrow, I will FINALLY be able to put it back together.
Other news:
Since this all started I bought a Big Rock (new) to go along with the pos Senton BLX I never should have bought.
I put a new 3S/4S Smart Spektrum ESC in the Senton BLX, it's working again!
Then I noticed the DS rear control arm is ridding higher than the rest of them.
That explains why it handles like dog poop and likes to spin out constantly!
Seems the shock is somehow shorter than all the rest, took them all off and measured them, they are all in the right place.
Tried to take the shock apart, and I stripped the shock body cap, and shaft cap keyed thing which is a pos design.
It won't open, pos.
Ordered new stock prefilled rear shocks from Amazon coming tomorrow.....
I NEVER should have bought this pos Senton, it's done nothing but cost me more money!
The Big Rock is ok, but I should not have purchased or played with it either, to late to send it back now....
It's just a Senton with different tires and arms really.
It does get a LOT less debris in the chasses when running on gravel/sand.
I should have got another 6S size vehicle....
I do plan to put the new 3S/4S ESC in the Big Rock later and eventually sell the Senton with the Big Rocks pos BLX ESC installed to get some of my money back on it.
Ordered cheap dust covers from Amazon for 2 Sentons to cover it and the Big Rock since they suck up debris like a vacuum in this swamp I live in now.
Also broke down and ordered an Xmaxx which got here 2 days ago and been waiting for my 4s batteries and accessories to arrive late.
It's all here now, roof skid, Traxxas light kit, dumbass Traxxas to EC5 adapters, and dust cover.
I run all Spektrum EC/IC type battery plugs (But almost entirely other cheaper brands batteries) and parallel charging equipment with my icharger DUO 308 (Love this setup!!!)
Not about to change to a new battery plug type with all my parallel charging gear.
Still deciding if I want to keep the Xmaxx or return it after all the video's I've watched showing it really needs a new ESC and steering servo at the least.
This thing is MASSIVE and cool as poop, but looks more and more like a money pit and I'm already $1450 into it just to buy it.
If it needs another $300-500 worth of ESC, motor, servo, and fans why the hell did I pay $1000 for it, also the radio is even cheaper trash than the Arrma RTR ones, if that's even possible lol.
Decisions decisions.....
Last edited:
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My senton is a tank and prolly the most reliable
.. man that's crazy, also the blx's are work horses.. sorry about all your troubles, damn!! 
Sea Fury
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Come one Tex, tell me how you really feel 
I don't doubt it's overall toughness, but the BLX is NOT waterproof.
I ran 1 battery through it in soggy grass holding water, then hosed it off and dried it out.
Two days later the ESC is toast and I tried everything to bring it back to life.
It worked for 1 min each day then starts the hercky jerks and barely moves.
I figured for $10 more might as well get 3S/4S compatibility of the Firma 120A instead of another BLX 3S.
I just think this Senton doesn't like me, even after I drove over an hour away to buy it and give it life again so it could run free in the sand!
If, and it's a BIG IF I keep it, it has to get bigger wheels and a maybe another type of body, this ones wore out and it's like so big and floppy.
No clue what I was thinking buying a racing truck when I just bash
Thanks for the support!My senton is a tank and prolly the most reliable
I don't doubt it's overall toughness, but the BLX is NOT waterproof.
I ran 1 battery through it in soggy grass holding water, then hosed it off and dried it out.
Two days later the ESC is toast and I tried everything to bring it back to life.
It worked for 1 min each day then starts the hercky jerks and barely moves.
I figured for $10 more might as well get 3S/4S compatibility of the Firma 120A instead of another BLX 3S.
I just think this Senton doesn't like me, even after I drove over an hour away to buy it and give it life again so it could run free in the sand!
If, and it's a BIG IF I keep it, it has to get bigger wheels and a maybe another type of body, this ones wore out and it's like so big and floppy.
No clue what I was thinking buying a racing truck when I just bash
Last edited:
RCbuzz
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To be fair none of them are really waterproof. In fact, these RC's go to completeCome one Tex, tell me how you really feel
Thanks for the support!
I don't doubt it's overall toughness, but the BLX is NOT waterproof.
I ran 1 battery through it in soggy grass holding water, then hosed it off and dried it out.
Two days later the ESC is toast and I tried everything to bring it back to life.
It worked for 1 min each day then starts the hercky jerks and barely moves.
I figured for $10 more might as well get 3S/4S compatibility of the Firma 120A instead of another BLX 3S.
I just think this Senton doesn't like me, even after I drove over an hour away to buy it and give it life again so it could run free in the sand!
If, and it's a BIG IF I keep it, it has to get bigger wheels and a maybe another type of body, this ones wore out and it's like so big and floppy.
No clue what I was thinking buying a racing truck when I just bash
when you run them in the wet, rusty seized bearings, rusty screws, electrical issues....You might get lucky and have that 1 in 20 ESC that was sealed up real good at the factory and handle more water. I don't run them in the wet and just use an air compressor and a brush to clean them off. It seems if you hose them down water always gets into the diff housings and other places it shouldn't.
Beach driving is fun but I would only take the RC's I care the least about (or don't mind rebuilding) to the dunes, they won't last long, especially the 3S line without sealing the power module first (lots of examples on the forum).
Just my 2 cents.
Tex Koder
2D , 3D Not a problem. I'll take that Challenge.
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Everything on my Typhon 3S breaks, except for my Hobbywing Max10 STC ESC and Hobbywing 3360 3200kv motor. Can highly recommend that Hobbywing kit.Come one Tex, tell me how you really feel
Thanks for the support!
I don't doubt it's overall toughness, but the BLX is NOT waterproof.
I ran 1 battery through it in soggy grass holding water, then hosed it off and dried it out.
Two days later the ESC is toast and I tried everything to bring it back to life.
It worked for 1 min each day then starts the hercky jerks and barely moves.
I figured for $10 more might as well get 3S/4S compatibility of the Firma 120A instead of another BLX 3S.
I just think this Senton doesn't like me, even after I drove over an hour away to buy it and give it life again so it could run free in the sand!
If, and it's a BIG IF I keep it, it has to get bigger wheels and a maybe another type of body, this ones wore out and it's like so big and floppy.
No clue what I was thinking buying a racing truck when I just bash
I did the Traxxas 5525 / 5529 conversion and she steers like a racecar now, that I can also highly recommend, but I think that is only applicable for the Big Rock.
Did you run the stock tie rods with the 5525 rod ends? I wasn't sure if folks were doing that or the whole slash 4x4 tie rod assembly
12.9 bolts have a higher yield and ultimate tensile strength compared to Ti Gr5.
Lighter yes, more expensive yes, stronger no.
I used the Arrma turnbuckles 4x48mm for my Typhon:
