Granite Jerry-rigged's Granite Mega 4x4

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I was running it for a while with a 17t pinion, and had no issues - at least not with the diff. I was blowing tires every run, though. A battery ago, I swapped to a 15t pinion to get the wheel speed down - trying to keep the tires intact. At the start of this run, I was having issues with the slipper - I could not get it to stop slipping, so I locked it. Bad idea, as soon as I gave it a full trigger it started popping... I said screw it and ran anyway. for the first 5 minutes, if I stayed off of WOT, it was OK. A few jumps later, though, and it was popping all the time... and a few minutes after that, Front Wheel Drive. LOL
 
4s. I did try 2s and 3s when I first dropped in the BLX185, but 2s was barely faster than stock, 3s was fun, but not wild (plus my 3s batteries suck). 4s feels great. Enough power to get wild, but not as crazy as my Kraton on 6s. But I gotta bite the bullet and buy some good tires...
 
So would it be safe to assume that a Titan 775 or Dewalt 12v motor could be shoved into one of these? Asking for a friend.
 
Jerry-rigged said:
46mm diameter is pretty big. I'll need to double check how much clearance the 40mm motor has, but I'd guess that I don't have 3mm extra.
Click to expand...
I just pulled those measurements off Google, that includes the torque ring, without the torque ring it is 42mm.
You smell what I'm steppin in? Not really a Titan 775 but it's the same dimensions as my burned up 12v Dewalt motor.
5XpIS9vl.jpg
 
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My advice? You are not comfortable, only because you don't do it. :D So go do it, and gain confidence. (Yeah, my kids probably kind of hate me LOL)

But seriously. If you don't want to try it right away, then just buy some spare diff inputs, set the punch low on the ESC, set the slipper right, and hopefully you won't break them every other run. Plus after you have a broke one, there is no harm trying to drill on a junk part, right? :) Can't screw up something that is already junk. Part of the beauty of this conversion is you can do it to the broke part - no need to ruin a good input. And if you get it done right, then no worries about breaking the new plastic part first run.

For the pin, a Dremel with a abrasive cut off wheel will make short work of it. It was only tough for me because my Dremel died and I have not replaced it, so I was trying to use a hacksaw blade in a saws-all - Classic wrong tool for the job issue.

The HD input is really a pretty easy job. But it is something you can put off till you break a few of the plastic inputs, if you don't mind fixing the truck.

As far as the factory HD part - it was originally listed back in January / Febuary, with a Mid-May delivery. And still no sign of it. IMHO, I think the double hit of the Hobbico bankruptcy first stalled it, and now the (hopefully) looming BLX4s release has it delayed more. (The BLX4s takes this part to 100% metal, instead of metal shaft, plastic gear) The Tower leak showed the BLX4s release to be Mid July, so hopefully soon.
 
Jerry-rigged said:
My advice? You are not comfortable, only because you don't do it. :D So go do it, and gain confidence. (Yeah, my kids probably kind of hate me LOL)

But seriously. If you don't want to try it right away, then just buy some spare diff inputs, set the punch low on the ESC, set the slipper right, and hopefully you won't break them every other run. Plus after you have a broke one, there is no harm trying to drill on a junk part, right? :) Can't screw up something that is already junk. Part of the beauty of this conversion is you can do it to the broke part - no need to ruin a good input. And if you get it done right, then no worries about breaking the new plastic part first run.

For the pin, a Dremel with a abrasive cut off wheel will make short work of it. It was only tough for me because my Dremel died and I have not replaced it, so I was trying to use a hacksaw blade in a saws-all - Classic wrong tool for the job issue.

The HD input is really a pretty easy job. But it is something you can put off till you break a few of the plastic inputs, if you don't mind fixing the truck.

As far as the factory HD part - it was originally listed back in January / Febuary, with a Mid-May delivery. And still no sign of it. IMHO, I think the double hit of the Hobbico bankruptcy first stalled it, and now the (hopefully) looming BLX4s release has it delayed more. (The BLX4s takes this part to 100% metal, instead of metal shaft, plastic gear) The Tower leak showed the BLX4s release to be Mid July, so hopefully soon.
Click to expand...

I'll admit it. It's more about being lazy than lacking skill, lol. If the part was $20, I'd drill away. But for $5? But since it's not available I am sure I will being doing your mod at some point. And I have a decent Dremel :)

Noob question. What is BLX4? Are they going to make a brushless version of the Granite 4x4?
 
bicketybam said:
Noob question. What is BLX4? Are they going to make a brushless version of the Granite 4x4?
Click to expand...

In Arrma speak - "Mega" has always meant "Brushed", and BLS/BLX was Brushless. (At one point, Arrma had a "regular" and "extreme" versions of brushless, plus the mega - so three power options for each 1/10 car) So we kind of have been expecting a brushless "Granite BLX" from day one.

A while back, Tower (probably accidently) listed a bunch of parts for "Kraton/Outcast BLX4s". The pictures for the parts matched up with the mega 4x4 parts - but upgraded. CVD's, metal gears for the diffs, upgraded slipper with M0.8 gear, metal motor mount, seemed like everything needed to make the truck driveline bulletproof. Most parts had availability listed as Mid-July - So I am hoping for a late July announcement for the BLX4s trucks. After a day or two, the listings were pulled, so all we have now are a few screenshots. I wish I would have screen shot the motor mount and diff gears...
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/new-model-alert-kraton-outcast-blx4s.7076/
 

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Hello everyone! I just bought a Senton 4x4 and have the same spur gear issue as everyone else. I did watch the video jerry-rigged make using the yeti spur and slipper. My only question is, did any of you guys find a bearing with the id and the width he talked about in the video? I have only found 10mm id bearing with around a 9mm width which would be way to wide. If I can source that parts the rest should be easy!
 
If you go to a place like AVID-RC, you can order bearings by size. $1 a bearing, plus $5 shipping.

Also, I bought a pair of ECX 10x15x4 bearings off Amazon, . 2 bearings for about $7.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003KSNXU8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
My current slipper build, I am using one of the inner races from this bearing as a spring spacer, and the M10 washer. Also, that same race *almost* fits inside the spur - if you drill out the spur a tiny bit, the second bearing inner race could work as a spur spacer. Heck, it is close enough to a fit that a vice or maybe a big pair of plyers could make it a press fit spacer.
 
I wonder if McMaster Car has a bushing that you could use as an adapter. Or if an adapter could be 3D printed.
 
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