Kraton kraton 4s problems, diff and ball joints

[HansDampf]

i have had this kraton for about 2 months (one of which i was wasnt on parts so it wasnt used) and during this time i have ran about 8 batts though it (4s) and stripped 2 rear diffs (ring gear both times [i think im typing this just after my 2nd diff blew but it feels the same as last times]), and my steering has about 25 degrees of play so the truck is almost undriveable, my old rc which i had for about 3 years not and cost half as much has less play, the steering issue is due to the ball joints being warn down completely, not just the steering ones tho, all off the ball joints need replacing. Before people ask no im not driving in sand or mud, just dirt trails in the uk, ive cleaned the truck using an air compressor after each drive and given it a deep clean once.
oh also my batt leads get sucked into the drive shaft.

what can i do, when the truck is working i love it so much but it seems to be very fragile which seems to be the opposite of what all the reviews say.
are there ball joint upgrade packs, i don't want to buy stock ones again as its just going to happen again.
with the diff i asked about shimming and people told me i cant get better than stock so i didnt try, and i looked at hot racing parts but they are out of stock and have a hefty import tax on them as i live in the uk, please advise.

https://streamable.com/jptavd video of steering

 

[jondilly1974]

That play in the steering is more likely the servo saver. Hold the servo saver in place and then test for wiggle. The stock one appears to have been damaged. The spring isn’t tight anymore. Get a Kimbrough 124 extra large saver instead. It will need some minor trimming to fit.

As for the diffs, it should have a shim on the ring gear side pushing the ring gear towards the input gear. If you don’t have this, get some. You may have bad bearings too. Buy a new set. Also might be best to get a set of Hot Racing yokes. They are aluminum instead of plastic.

 

[HansDampf]

That play in the steering is more likely the servo saver. Hold the servo saver in place and then test for wiggle. The stock one appears to have been damaged. The spring isn’t tight anymore. Get a Kimbrough 124 extra large saver instead. It will need some minor trimming to fit.

As for the diffs, it should have a shim on the ring gear side pushing the ring gear towards the input gear. If you don’t have this, get some. You may have bad bearings too. Buy a new set. Also might be best to get a set of Hot Racing yokes. They are aluminum instead of plastic.

all hot racing stuff i cant get as they are out of stock, the bearings are good, i replaced the pair already as my stock ones came seized, also there is one shim in the rear diff that came stock

 

[jondilly1974]

all hot racing stuff i cant get as they are out of stock, the bearings are good, i replaced the pair already as my stock ones came seized, also there is one shim in the rear diff that came stock

If your bearings seized at some point it could have deformed your plastic yokes. Get a new one.

 

[RC-RAD]

i have had this kraton for about 2 months (one of which i was wasnt on parts so it wasnt used) and during this time i have ran about 8 batts though it (4s) and stripped 2 rear diffs (ring gear both times [i think im typing this just after my 2nd diff blew but it feels the same as last times]), and my steering has about 25 degrees of play so the truck is almost undriveable, my old rc which i had for about 3 years not and cost half as much has less play, the steering issue is due to the ball joints being warn down completely, not just the steering ones tho, all off the ball joints need replacing. Before people ask no im not driving in sand or mud, just dirt trails in the uk, ive cleaned the truck using an air compressor after each drive and given it a deep clean once.
oh also my batt leads get sucked into the drive shaft.

what can i do, when the truck is working i love it so much but it seems to be very fragile which seems to be the opposite of what all the reviews say.
are there ball joint upgrade packs, i don't want to buy stock ones again as its just going to happen again.
with the diff i asked about shimming and people told me i cant get better than stock so i didnt try, and i looked at hot racing parts but they are out of stock and have a hefty import tax on them as i live in the uk, please advise.

https://streamable.com/jptavd video of steering

Stripping your rear diffs could be associated to how tight your slipper clutch is. How tight do you have it?

I agree with upgrading your servo savor to the Kimbrough 124. I have that servo savor but I will mention that it has some slop in it as well. I'm not that concerned with steering slop since I'm just bashing around.

Regarding your the issue of your batt leads getting sucked into your drive shaft, I strap mine down with the battery straps so they down move around.

 

[HansDampf]

Get a Kimbrough 124 extra large saver instead

these don't seem to exist in the uk, do you know of any alternatives?

Stripping your rear diffs could be associated to how tight your slipper clutch is. How tight do you have it?

ever so slightly tighter than stock, im also rather gentle on the throttle as my last truck would strip its spur instantly if you where not careful.

Regarding your the issue of your batt leads getting sucked into your drive shaft, I strap mine down with the battery straps so they down move around.

im also doing this but the shape of my lipo has the leads right next to the drive shaft, the stock lipo blocks only have a cut out on the drive shaft size which is where my leads are, i tired it on its side but it roles over and then was loose and bounced about in the truck, bellow is the lipo im using but with ec5 connectors

 

[ph47mf]

This one?

 

[HansDampf]

This one?

its out of stock with no restock date

 

[jondilly1974]

Turn the lipo upside down so the leads are on the outside, not the middle

 

[HansDampf]

Turn the lipo upside down so the leads are on the outside, not the middle

i wish i could but i cant, the block spacer things are in the way, see below

 

[razorrc]

what can i do, when the truck is working i love it so much but it seems to be very fragile which seems to be the opposite of what all the reviews say.

Most reviewers don't know what they're talking about. I've said many times this is one of the most fragile cars Arrma has made.

i wish i could but i cant, the block spacer things are in the way, see below View attachment 87011

You could probably remove one of those plastic spacers and use a foam block instead.

 

[ph47mf]

I put my lipos in the other way, the wires pointing at the rear end, once connected I put it all under the strap and even put the strap through the loop connector to ensure it doesn't go anywhere.

And yes you can remove that block, or the block on the other end.

 

[HansDampf]

And yes you can remove that block, or the block on the other end.

yeah i know, i had to take one out for my batt to fit, as such the rear of the batt tray is not just flat with no notch for wires to go though, i have remove the rear one anyway as it was leaving a big old dent in my lipo.
sorry for being award

 

[DT892]

all hot racing stuff i cant get as they are out of stock, the bearings are good, i replaced the pair already as my stock ones came seized, also there is one shim in the rear diff that came stock

Pivots balls are shockingly bad, I had same steering issue; changed to new composite balls and steering was much improved. The other thing I did was to buy a set of Jim's bearings, includes steering bearings where Arrma supply the car with plastic shims. That def. helped. I must admit the stock diffs are ok until you touch them, seems that unless they're set perfectly they wear super quickly.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Pivots balls are shockingly bad, I had same steering issue; changed to new composite balls and steering was much improved. The other thing I did was to buy a set of Jim's bearings, includes steering bearings where Arrma supply the car with plastic shims. That def. helped. I must admit the stock diffs are ok until you touch them, seems that unless they're set perfectly they wear super quickly.

Get the hot rcing pivot balls with new rod ends or the team associated steel balls @MrTitanium knows the part number
I have found the kimbourgh 124 saver to be sorry trash its strong yes but the slop it has? i opened the stock saver and the kimbrought and switched the springs no play at all and still strong my 4s has a god good handling because of it while my outcast 4s has the kimbourgh 123 and has a lot more play than my k4s

 

[MrTitanium]

I installed ASC81398 steel pivot balls with good results to date. They snap in firmly and maintain their fit. Sold in packs of 4, so three packs are needed to complete one truck.