Kraton Leopard 1480kv 4292 heat issues

[Rich Duperbash]

Nope... I'm going to tape up that body tonight and that will be the end of it.

Hey I meant to ask you earlier, did you swap for different body mounts??? Was thinking about using Prolines stands with caps but they'd have to be shaved a bit to fit in the MT mounts.

 

[Vanning]

Oh, that black old school Chevy looks so cool!
Yeah the truggy/buggy platform just speaks quality and upgrades and just makes sense. For a while when i wanted a monster I was looking at the savage but the whole design seemed unnecessary! And all the monsters are just rollover Queens!
I always wondered why someone didn't just build a basher based on a rock solid truggy/buggy platform then Bam, there was Arrma, so refreshing! And Kraton was a must have!
What I never liked about Traxxas is all the molded gray plastics? I think it looks cheap and unnecessary. That is the reason I never got a Revo, i would have dumped a bunch of money into one and then just sold it for a big loss once arrma came out as I have done with so many rc's before.
It's unfortunate for the X Maxx that you cant make your own shock towers and things like that?

Proprietary type of design and upgrades get expensive and complicated. It's simply an amazing design but all that plastic gets boring and it's hard to fit servos and motors that you like. Truggy's are more fun to tune and make better.

Hey I meant to ask you earlier, did you swap for different body mounts??? Was thinking about using Prolines stands with caps but they'd have to be shaved a bit to fit in the MT mounts.

I had a Pro-Line extended body post kit for my Kraton and the post slid right into the Tekno mounts. Seemed like a perfect fit. Maybe take a Dremal sanding drum and zip the square edges off the post but I recall it really wasn't necessary. I do recall that it was snug but not bad. The post look square and the mount looks like it has rounded corners maybe?

 

[Rich Duperbash]

Proprietary type of design and upgrades get expensive and complicated. It's simply an amazing design but all that plastic gets boring and it's hard to fit servos and motors that you like. Truggy's are more fun to tune and make better.



I had a Pro-Line extended body post kit for my Kraton and the post slid right into the Tekno mounts. Seemed like a perfect fit. Maybe take a Dremal sanding drum and zip the square edges off the post but I recall it really wasn't necessary. I do recall that it was snug but not bad.

Thanks much Vanning. I think I'll try that. Didn't take long for my body to get smashed up in the rear...Lol. Thinking some more flex and better fitment should help. That and not tail darting into mother Earth so much with big jumps gone bad...Lol. May try a bug body next when mine is obliterated.

 

[Vanning]

I killed my bug body.... had to retire it. It sure did take a good beating. It just won't hold up around the mounts any more. Fitting Slash mounts is brilliant. You did that on one of your rigs already. They are great body mounts if they can fit.

 

[Rich Duperbash]

I killed my bug body.... had to retire it. It sure did take a good beating. It just won't hold up around the mounts any more. Fitting Slash mounts is brilliant. You did that on one of your rigs already. They are great body mounts if they can fit.

Thanks Vanning, appreciate the pic and your solid feedback.

 

[Vanning]

Got the Extreme tape on the body. Nothing beats shoe goo but it just sucks to deal with. I've had good luck with Gorilla tape but it gets heavy. This tape here is much lighter. It's stuck on there pretty good. About as hard as as gorilla holds. May test it tomorrow.

 

[Rich Duperbash]

Got the Extreme tape on the body. Nothing beats shoe goo but it just sucks to deal with. I've had good luck with Gorilla tape but it gets heavy. This tape here is much lighter. It's stuck on there pretty good. About as hard as as gorilla holds. May test it tomorrow.

Looks good brother. I'm curious to see how it does. You'll have to share your opinion over time. You're right, Gorilla tape definitely adds weight no doubt.

 

[ParkRacing]

Got the Extreme tape on the body. Nothing beats shoe goo but it just sucks to deal with. I've had good luck with Gorilla tape but it gets heavy. This tape here is much lighter. It's stuck on there pretty good. About as hard as as gorilla holds. May test it tomorrow.

Looks like quality stuff

 

[ParkRacing]

Rich, Vanning you guys ever deal with this? I broke the rear diff last weekend and went ahead and installed the drill blanks while i was in there with both stock pins broken in three and a broken planetary gear. So I decided to do the front diff while I was at it and not wait for it to break while I was playing and both pins were broken in that also even tho it was working? Did your stock pins break all the time? Just curious because I have fixed them all now.

 

[Alex.tali.1]

Wish l could find a place like that in New Mexico or had some rc friends at least, well I do have rc friends but they are crawlers, poor guys!!!
How are you liking the bigger scale stuff?

Dude im from new mexico i live in Albuquerque hit me up some time if u want we can bash it up

 

[Vanning]

Yeah... they snap and stay jammed in there. I didn't break many at all. I mostly broke front shocks. I also don't sky my stuff like Rich. I hit many jumps but never sent it to the moon like Rich does.

 

[ParkRacing]

Rich, Vanning you guys ever deal with this? I broke the rear diff last weekend and went ahead and installed the drill blanks while i was in there with both stock pins broken in three and a broken planetary gear. So I decided to do the front diff while I was at it and not wait for it to break while I was playing and both pins were broken in that also even tho it was working? Did your stock pins break all the time? Just curious because I have fixed them all now.

Dude im from new mexico i live in Albuquerque hit me up some time if u want we can bash it up

Cool dude. Rarely make it down that way without the wife and kids but I will keep you in mind. Do you race? I like going to the track in White Rock

Yeah... they snap and stay jammed in there. I didn't break many at all. I mostly broke front shocks. I also don't sky my stuff like Rich. I hit many jumps but never sent it to the moon like Rich does.

Rich is a little crazy I think!

 

[Rich Duperbash]

Rich, Vanning you guys ever deal with this? I broke the rear diff last weekend and went ahead and installed the drill blanks while i was in there with both stock pins broken in three and a broken planetary gear. So I decided to do the front diff while I was at it and not wait for it to break while I was playing and both pins were broken in that also even tho it was working? Did your stock pins break all the time? Just curious because I have fixed them all now.

Yes I have broken a few pins, as you described, but it hasn't been a chronic issue. It's crazy how the diff can keep going despite broken gears and pins sometimes.

 

[Vanning]

Well...I hope park got his Kraton figured out. Now I'm pissedI lost screws and bearings today. I was having so much fun also. Lol.
Today I ran my 410 and skyed a few big jumps. I can't say enough good about this rig. It's light, fast, and strong. Handles unbelievably well. So I managed to lose a screw in the steering and a few bearings. I took a picture of it. It's a brand new rig...it happens. So I secured it differently and this is for Rich. I drilled out the special collar, ran a slightly longer button head up from the bottom and put a nylon nut on top. You have to slightly clearance under the plastic that holds the bell cranks. I made a temporary collar to fit into the steering but I lost a bearing anyway. So basicly I'm not relying on loctite to hold that steering rack screw. There is just enough room to get a nut and bolt to work. Then there is a pic of some rear shock tower bracing.

 

[Rich Duperbash]

Well...I hope park got his Kraton figured out. Now I'm pisses I lost screws and bearings today. I was having so much fun also. Lol.
Today I ran my 410 and skyed a few big jumps. I can't say enough good about this rig. It's light, fast, and strong. Handles unbelievably well. So I managed to lose a screw in the steering and a few bearings. I took a picture of it. It's a brand new rig...it happens. So I secured it differently and this is for Rich. I drilled out the special collar, ran a slightly longer button head up from the bottom and put a nylon nut on top. You have to slightly clearance under the plastic that holds the bell cranks. I made a temporary collar to fit into the steering but I lost a bearing anyway. So basicly I'm not relying on loctite to hold that steering rack screw. There is just enough room to get a nut and bolt to work. Then there is a pic of some rear shock tower bracing.

Sorry to hear that Vanning. I had a rough first couple bashes myself and found the Tekno supplied threadlocker is perhaps lacking. My motor mount screws came loose among other initial issues. I really should get that M2c rear brace. Definitely seems like a weak area. My rear diff case cracked in the same area, but my first bash was without a tower to tower in place. Its held up since. Nice lathe work!!! Glad you got a taste for this awesome fun rig. Hopefully you'll get the kinks worked out and finish your full run next go my friend.

 

[ParkRacing]

Well...I hope park got his Kraton figured out. Now I'm pisses I lost screws and bearings today. I was having so much fun also. Lol.
Today I ran my 410 and skyed a few big jumps. I can't say enough good about this rig. It's light, fast, and strong. Handles unbelievably well. So I managed to lose a screw in the steering and a few bearings. I took a picture of it. It's a brand new rig...it happens. So I secured it differently and this is for Rich. I drilled out the special collar, ran a slightly longer button head up from the bottom and put a nylon nut on top. You have to slightly clearance under the plastic that holds the bell cranks. I made a temporary collar to fit into the steering but I lost a bearing anyway. So basicly I'm not relying on loctite to hold that steering rack screw. There is just enough room to get a nut and bolt to work. Then there is a pic of some rear shock tower bracing.

My xt90 connectors will be here maybe tomorrow and I should be able to test Saturday.
I love Tekno stuff

 

[ParkRacing]

Well...I hope park got his Kraton figured out. Now I'm pissedI lost screws and bearings today. I was having so much fun also. Lol.
Today I ran my 410 and skyed a few big jumps. I can't say enough good about this rig. It's light, fast, and strong. Handles unbelievably well. So I managed to lose a screw in the steering and a few bearings. I took a picture of it. It's a brand new rig...it happens. So I secured it differently and this is for Rich. I drilled out the special collar, ran a slightly longer button head up from the bottom and put a nylon nut on top. You have to slightly clearance under the plastic that holds the bell cranks. I made a temporary collar to fit into the steering but I lost a bearing anyway. So basicly I'm not relying on loctite to hold that steering rack screw. There is just enough room to get a nut and bolt to work. Then there is a pic of some rear shock tower bracing.

Well Vanning and Rich...... results are in
love the XT90 connectors the fit, finish and usability are great, like them much better than the Castle 6.5.
Fresh solder on all connectors, even removed the connectors that came on the motor and resoldered. went with your gearing Vanning 20/50. Motor was 170 running around the back yard mostly 1/2 throttle. So I got out my old Duratrax Flashpoint temp gauge just to compare and it said it was at 140? the battery felt fine and so did the esc so I decided I would go with the lower number. went ahead and ran it until the battery was drained went to check the temps and the bigger thermometer said the motor was 228.7, the esc was almost to hot to touch and the almost new lipo is puffy!!!!!!!!! the Duratrax tempgauge said the motor was only 181 however the chassis was so hot I could almost not touch it, and I spit a littile on the motor and it instantly sizzled off??????

to be completely honest the reason you guys had not heard from me in months was because I have not been able to get this thing right and just gave it a break. I really have not been able to use the truck because I cannot get the electronic kinks out.
Please help!

 

[Vanning]

I would have also bench tested the motor after the new solder. Before running it. Duratrax stuff....if I recal, not the best. Sucks that it wasn't just the solder. Could also be resistance under a load only. I see temps go up if my motor gear mesh gets cocked. Mostly from bad bearings. It's why I now just run with telemetry. You have had your share of heat issues. Bad run of luck. I've never had such issues....try looking at the motor and see if you can get any bad readings. The setup should run fine if all is healthy. I had a Leopard that wasn't good before. It ran hot when others had complete success with theirs.

Park....I forgot to mention. I had a Leopard that ran real hot. Others had complete success with theirs.

 

[Rich Duperbash]

Well Vanning and Rich...... results are in
love the XT90 connectors the fit, finish and usability are great, like them much better than the Castle 6.5.
Fresh solder on all connectors, even removed the connectors that came on the motor and resoldered. went with your gearing Vanning 20/50. Motor was 170 running around the back yard mostly 1/2 throttle. So I got out my old Duratrax Flashpoint temp gauge just to compare and it said it was at 140? the battery felt fine and so did the esc so I decided I would go with the lower number. went ahead and ran it until the battery was drained went to check the temps and the bigger thermometer said the motor was 228.7, the esc was almost to hot to touch and the almost new lipo is puffy!!!!!!!!! the Duratrax tempgauge said the motor was only 181 however the chassis was so hot I could almost not touch it, and I spit a littile on the motor and it instantly sizzled off??????

to be completely honest the reason you guys had not heard from me in months was because I have not been able to get this thing right and just gave it a break. I really have not been able to use the truck because I cannot get the electronic kinks out.
Please help!

View attachment 11348

Not saying to throw in the towel on your motor, but have you considered trying a Hobbystar 1730? They are priced rather cheap with good specs and end bell is already tapped for 3 and 4m.

 

[Vanning]

I talk to a group of 1/5 scale people. They swear by the Hobbystar stuff.

Before I had the 1480kv on my Kraton....I hade a 1730kv Leopard or so. Lots of people were having great success. Mine was sizzling quick after a few mins. I swapped in the 1480, had perfect temps and very long run times. I never did figure out what was going on previously. It's high resistance some place is all I can say. That could be tires, gears and weight also causing the high amps. At this point... the motor is looking suspicious. Like Rich said...see if you can find out why but don't throw in the towel. Very frustrating Park. You got gremlins for sure.