Kraton MM2 heat issues and bad fan - maybe

[maxgasmekl]

Hi - here comes a lot of maybe stupid questions…
Issue 1:
I have just installed a MM2 esc in my Kraton. Its paired to a 2000kv Lazer motor with a 14t pinion. I have soldered on 10awg Castle wire 6.5 bullets on the esc-side to the 4mm Castle bullets to connect to the motor. Using EC5 connectors to the batteries (gensacearespammers 120c 6800 mah bashings) Also I have soldered on 18cm 10awg wire for the batteries as the original wire was i hair too short. The thing is that the electronics get veryvery hot - even after just 5 mins of soft bashing on hard gravel (lots of wheelspin though). The wires are around 70degrees celsius measured with a tempgun and the same goes for the motor and the esc itself. I have made a good soldering job with very solid joints, so this should be the problem. The car runs very well with no deag or binding in the driveline at all. I have LSD plates in all my diffs with 50k in the front, 100k center and 20k in the rear. But still the thing managed to melt the solder on the batteryside of the esc and in one of my ec5 connectors. I have put on a dualfan 30mm on the motor and the stock fan on the esc. Its 25 degrees celsius outside here in Denmark. Are these temps normal or is something wrong? Its very hot and it kind of annoys me to think so much about heat that I have to pause my bashing every 5 mins.
Issue 2:
After bashing with the truck the fan in the MM2 esc began to slow down. Nothing wrong with the wires, but it seemed a little hard to turn by hand. I took it apart and pressed the fan together as the “house” had came loose from the shroud. Now after just a few easy jumps it comes loose again when hitting the ground and sometimes make the system not want to boot at all. Are the a way to maybe fix the fan or should i just replace it? I occured after the second run. Can a fan that doesn't spin freely make the esc not able to boot? Like completely dead.

Sorry for all my questions…

 

[K-BASH]

Have you went into data logging an adjust any settings??is it faster in rev than foward..1st thing I'd do is switch any 3 of the motor leads around..you may need to reverse rotation of motor..you maybe running in reverse instead of foward...did motor come out of a car where it sat in chassis other direction??

 

[Senton_Prime]

Are you running 3s lipo's?

 

[dure16]

Have you went into data logging an adjust any settings??is it faster in rev than foward..1st thing I'd do is switch any 3 of the motor leads around..you may need to reverse rotation of motor..you maybe running in reverse instead of foward...did motor come out of a car where it sat in chassis other direction??

Are you sure the MM2 does data logging?

 

[K-BASH]

Are you sure the MM2 does data logging?

It doesn't do data logging..I mean did he adjust any settings..I know alot of castle escz have 15 degrees timing as default setting.

 

[RC Steve]

I own 2 of those ESCs and the fans do suck. Try running a higher quality fan in the shroud. I run Team Brood fans on mine and it makes a difference. Also you need to run your BEC at 7v for the high end fans to work right. My MM2 ESCs are almost 5 years old, treat them right and they'll run forever.

 

[maxgasmekl]

Have you went into data logging an adjust any settings??is it faster in rev than foward..1st thing I'd do is switch any 3 of the motor leads around..you may need to reverse rotation of motor..you maybe running in reverse instead of foward...did motor come out of a car where it sat in chassis other direction??

I have only changed the steering servo voltage to 7v via Link. I did switch the two outer motorwires around as the car went backwards when I pulled the forward throttle. Should i switch them back and change this setting into reverse vis link or my dx5 instead? Punch setting is on default and brake is set to 50% and rearspeed to 40%

Thanks

It doesn't do data logging..I mean did he adjust any settings..I know alot of castle escz have 15 degrees timing as default setting.

Im a little noob her - what do you mean by 15 degrees timing? Punchsetting? Everything is standard says Link

It doesn't do data logging..I mean did he adjust any settings..I know alot of castle escz have 15 degrees timing as default setting.

Im a little noob her - what do you mean by 15 degrees timing? Punchsetting? Everything is standard says Link

I own 2 of those ESCs and the fans do suck. Try running a higher quality fan in the shroud. I run Team Brood fans on mine and it makes a difference. Also you need to run your BEC at 7v for the high end fans to work right. My MM2 ESCs are almost 5 years old, treat them right and they'll run forever.

I did change the voltage to 7v. Yes the standard fan seems a little weak. Ill look into the fans you mention. Thanks

 

[maxgasmekl]

Are you running 3s lipo's?

Yes x2

 

[K-BASH]

I have only changed the steering servo voltage to 7v via Link. I did switch the two outer motorwires around as the car went backwards when I pulled the forward throttle. Should i switch them back and change this setting into reverse vis link or my dx5 instead? Punch setting is on default and brake is set to 50% and rearspeed to 40%

Thanks

Im a little noob her - what do you mean by 15 degrees timing? Punchsetting? Everything is standard says Link

Im a little noob her - what do you mean by 15 degrees timing? Punchsetting? Everything is standard says Link

I did change the voltage to 7v. Yes the standard fan seems a little weak. Ill look into the fans you mention. Thanks

I would go back into link set reverse to 10%.1st make sure your going faster in foward than reverse...timing at 0 ,punch turned down to 10%...if it's going faster in reverse then either switch wires or switch rotation of motor till its fastest going foward...

 

[maxgasmekl]

I would go back into link set reverse to 10%.1st make sure your going faster in foward than reverse...timing at 0 ,punch turned down to 10%...if it's going faster in reverse then either switch wires or switch rotation of motor till its fastest going foward...

But I am already going maxfast way in forward than reverse where its set to 40%…

 

[jkflow]

What is ambient for you? Driving in 40C or -20C?

70C = 158F, sounds normal to myself in 30C (85F) weather
Go with bigger gauge wires if you feel like it, but this is nominal with 14T, solder will melt.
My motor is usually in the 180F range with fans installed but using larger bullets and QS8.

The ESC fan is under powered and very restricted, might want to put a better fan on it.

Also, go down to 13T, this is too much for what you have.

 

[SrC]

Have you checked over the motor at all. Opened it up, inpsected it, cleaned it out BB's and all , with drop of Synthetic oil on the BB's?
Because it Sounds like you are incurring extreme Amp draw there, With melted soldering and all. And a 14T Pinion shouldn't even be an issue quite honestly, running a mere 2000kv motor. Dropping down one tooth could help, however may just be a band-aid approach, for something occuring for other reasons.
A replacement Upgrade ESC fan is an absolute given. No getting around that. Run the ESC and new fan without any Stock shroud on it. Best IMHO. How I fly with many ESC's. Just need a good upgrade fan that fits . Doesn't even have to be a huge monster one at all.
Your motor's fan setup could be way better IMHO.
Toss the Motor Heatsink altogether. And run (2) 40x40mm fans using a Motor double fan mount blowing directly at the bare motor. The motor is already a Heatsink by design. Quicker cool downs will result.
The motor is what I would focus on. May even need 2 new BB's, especially if you never opened and maintained it well at all. Just dirty dry and well worn out Motor BB's alone will ruin a wet dream. Friction from the BB's alone can wreak havoc. Often overlooked until the Motor seizes up, and is bricked completely. BB's need regular replacing . I prefer Ceramics when I do change them out. Better luck with them. And not tragically that much more $$. I maintain my motors and they treat me fine. Will last for so many years this way. I never really had heat issues and never had solder joints melt apart. You are damaging all the electrics this way. Excessive amp draw....
My 3 cents.

 

[maxgasmekl]

Have you checked over the motor at all. Opened it up, inpsected it, cleaned it out BB's and all , with drop of Synthetic oil on the BB's?
Because it Sounds like you are incurring extreme Amp draw there, With melted soldering and all. And a 14T Pinion shouldn't even be an issue quite honestly, running a mere 2000kv motor. Dropping down one tooth could help, however may just be a band-aid approach, for something occuring for other reasons.
A replacement Upgrade ESC fan is an absolute given. No getting around that. Run the ESC and new fan without any Stock shroud on it. Best IMHO. How I fly with many ESC's. Just need a good upgrade fan that fits . Doesn't even have to be a huge monster one at all.
Your motor's fan setup could be way better IMHO.
Toss the Motor Heatsink altogether. And run (2) 40x40mm fans using a Motor double fan mount blowing directly at the bare motor. The motor is already a Heatsink by design. Quicker cool downs will result.
The motor is what I would focus on. May even need 2 new BB's, especially if you never opened and maintained it well at all. Just dirty dry and well worn out Motor BB's alone will ruin a wet dream. Friction from the BB's alone can wreak havoc. Often overlooked until the Motor seizes up, and is bricked completely. BB's need regular replacing . I prefer Ceramics when I do change them out. Better luck with them. And not tragically that much more $$. I maintain my motors and they treat me fine. Will last for so many years this way. I never really had heat issues and never had solder joints melt apart. You are damaging all the electrics this way. Excessive amp draw....
My 3 cents.

Ok many thanks for your 3 cents the motor is brand new. And the car spins fine when free wheeling. So I don't think the bbs in the motor are broken. Do you have any advise on what fan I should by and put on the esc and the motor? I have thought about the heatfins on the motorfanmount don't really do that much as the motor already have a few heatfins on it.

 

[SrC]

Buy a stock size 30 x30mm x 10mm Alloy framed Turbo HS fan. Yeah that ESC would have been better with a 35m ESC fan. Like most newer ESC's of that size have.

https://www.amazon.com/Motor-Cooling-Heatsink-28000RPM-Brushless/dp/B08FJ9QD8N/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2GBKLVE1HXOZB&keywords=rc+30mm+fans&qid=1687567188&sprefix=rc+30+mm+fnas,aps,119&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

And these finger guards for grills. These have little to no air restriction.
Remove the plastic OE shroud altogether if you can. You don't need it or want it.

https://www.amazon.com/30mm-Black-Finger-Grill-Packs/dp/B07DGWCZG8/ref=sr_1_3?crid=H13RY1GPGS9J&keywords=rc+30mm+finger+guard&qid=1687567295&sprefix=rc+30mm+finger+guard,aps,85&sr=8-3
A 30mm to 40mm fan adapter will get you a larger 40mm fan, if you can fit it. Shroud must come off in this case.

I only have 1 cents left.
Enjoy it.