Limitless Obession

[httuner]

I wanted to share my journey building my limitless, I'm really not an R/C guy or so I tell myself but I am an automotive enthusiast and anything with wheels and tons of power is my addiction.

What started out as a $240 dollar brand new limitless deal off of FBmarketplace is now an obsession that is costing me more than a used Honda Civic.

I apologize as none of the photos are in order lol; I've been fighting to organize it and can't seem to make it work so I'd just be okay with it like this. (There are more photos but I'm limited to just 15 in one post lol)

Lots of titanium bolts in places that don't require much strength yet reducing weight ; Regular black steel screws in places it needs the strength; some stainless here and there just for looks.

I am not done yet; I have more things planned and will take better proper photos later on. More details to come. There is probably a lot I am missing here but its all I can think of right now; more recent photos to come! Thank you for stopping by.

Parts List;
ScorchRC Limitless V1 Tailored Chassis (Custom Drilled for V2 driveshaft assembly)
ScorchRC Limitless V2 Pinnochio Spool w/Trident Front Shaft & Scorch Rear shaft
ScorchRC Input Drive Cup (Rear)
ScorchRC Front Hubs / Scorch Titanium Pillow Balls
ScorchRC Rear Hubs
ScorchRC Titanium CVD Axles Front & Rear
ScorchRC CF Top Deck
ScorchRC Motor Mount
ScorchRC Servo Mount
ScorchRC Front & Rear Limitless Skid Plates
ScorchRC Servo Saver Eliminator Kit
ScorchRC Battery Strap Tie Downs

HotRacing F/R GearBoxes
HotRacing Typhon rear wing mount bracket
HotRacing Wing Brace / Mounts
HotRacing Wheel nut (Polished)

PerfectPass Carbon Fiber Kit
1Up Racing Titanium Bolts Misc.
ProTekRC Titanium Bolts Misc.
Acer Racing Bearing Kit
ProTekRC Servo Arm (Not pictured)
TLR Typhon Lower Control Arm Blocks F/R (So I can adjust Toe in the rear) Lots of tuning options (Polished)
Acer Racing Titanium TurnBuckles
Arrma EXB Upper Hinge Pin w/Hinge pin holders (Strip the red and Polished)
Arrma Typhon Receiver box
Rear Team Associated RC8 +2mm rear wheel hex/ 3mm Wheel Hex Pins (Drilled out the axle stub to fit 3mm pins)
SagaCustoms Battery Straps
Mugen MBX8R Servo Link
Mugen MBX8R Steering Turnbuckle Tie Rods

Front Control Arm Setup:
Team Associated End Caps with Custom Titanium M6 Washers
Team Associated RCB3.2 Front Upper Control Arms w/
Avid Racing 1mm Carbon Fiber Insert / ProTek M3x8 Titanium Screws
Team Associated RCB4 Lower Control Arms w/ Avid Racing Titanium Dome Droop Screws / 1Up LowPro M3x6 Titanium Screws (Originally the lower inserts are to be used with a M2.5x6 screw but I drilled them to work with M3)
Avid Racing 2mm Carbon Fiber Insert / Avid Titanium Shock Pins / Team Associated Sway Bar Link Kit
(** You'd need to shim an extra 1mm on each side for the upper control arms; Use the mugen caster shim kit) On the bottom you'd have to shim 1mm on the back to push the lower control arm forward(Use the same caster shims on the upper control arms on the bottom)

Rear Control Arm Setup:
Mugen MBX8R Carbon Fiber Inserts (Modified to fit Arrma Arms/ Mounted with 1up titanium screws)
Team Associated Sway Bar Link upper mount
Avid Racing Titanium Shock Mount Screw


Diff Setups;
500k Fluid Front / 200k Fluid Rear
Arrma Metal Case w/ Arrma Internals
Low Profile Titanium Bolts w/ Mugen Outdrives and pins (The Mugen outdrives are polished for smoother operation)

Suspension Setup;
2k Fluid / Perfect Pass Springs
Hot Racing Shock Caps
Hot Racing Shock Collars
Polished Arrma shock bodies.

GRP Xm7 Revo stiff wheels; also have a set of Xm7 slicks(Gone Banana Foams maybe in the future)

Electrics;
PerfectPass Servo
Castle XLX2 w 2028 1100kv (Saga 34T Spur/SpeedTek 40T Pinon)
Futaba GYC470 Gyro
Flysky Receiver modded with dual antennas.

This is a custom skid plate I created with the original plastic limitless splitter; I originally tried to source a skid plate that would work but turns out I could just double-side tape the original splitter on by cutting it; this way the plastic is what hits the ground and not the carbon fiber which will fray and break.

Stripped the red off the shock bodies and rebuilt them; I since removed the green nitro tubing that I used as limiters since the Perfect pass springs are super stiff; The front shocks I cut some plastic tubing to about 6mm and placed them inside the shock shaft to limit down-travel to limit my ride height. Car is sitting 10mm off the ground from the skid plate I created for the splitter to the ground.

 

[SrC]

WOW, that blows me away.
Yeah I could see that costing way more than a Honda Civic as a Play toy.
Just, no gas or car Insurance is required with your Lim.

 

[Diem Turner]

That's tight man, nice work. I particularly dig the side body panels to cover the "battery holes" and my favorite touch is probably the ingenious suspension arm infills. Top notch

 

[Tex Koder]

I wanted to share my journey building my limitless, I'm really not an R/C guy or so I tell myself but I am an automotive enthusiast and anything with wheels and tons of power is my addiction.

What started out as a $240 dollar brand new limitless deal off of FBmarketplace is now an obsession that is costing me more than a used Honda Civic.

I'm going to post some photos first and details about it later since I'm at work and can't really get into it too much. I apologize as none of the photos are in order lol; I've been fighting to organize it and can't seem to make it work so I'd just be okay with it like this. (There are more photos but I'm limited to just 15 in one post lol)

Lots of titanium bolts in places that don't require much strength yet reducing weight ; Regular black steel screws in places it needs the strength; some stainless here and there just for looks.

I am not done yet; I have more things planned and will take better proper photos later on. More details to come.


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Now That'S some BOLD customization!!

Love how you chopped the body to accommodate the Lipos and make the custom covers
(Are they actual Carbon Fiber panels or vinyl wraped plastic sheets??)

And those front suspension arms inlays are mint
Did you cut those by hand , yourself?




*****************


I Sub'd to see More!!!

 

[httuner]

I’ve been working on the rear end now that the front is complete;

Basically the same diff setups as the front
Arrma Metal cases, Mugen outdrives with pins, Arrma internals, 1up low profile titanium screws and Acer Racing bearings.

A photo of how I mounted the Gyro**

 

[LibertyMKiii]

I wanted to share my journey building my limitless, I'm really not an R/C guy or so I tell myself but I am an automotive enthusiast and anything with wheels and tons of power is my addiction.

What started out as a $240 dollar brand new limitless deal off of FBmarketplace is now an obsession that is costing me more than a used Honda Civic.

I'm going to post some photos first and details about it later since I'm at work and can't really get into it too much. I apologize as none of the photos are in order lol; I've been fighting to organize it and can't seem to make it work so I'd just be okay with it like this. (There are more photos but I'm limited to just 15 in one post lol)

Lots of titanium bolts in places that don't require much strength yet reducing weight ; Regular black steel screws in places it needs the strength; some stainless here and there just for looks.

I am not done yet; I have more things planned and will take better proper photos later on. More details to come.


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These are not Arrma arms, what brand of Arms are these? (looks more like Team associated)

 

[httuner]

Now That'S some BOLD customization!!

Love how you chopped the body to accommodate the Lipos and make the custom covers
(Are they actual Carbon Fiber panels or vinyl wraped plastic sheets??)

And those front suspension arms inlays are mint
Did you cut those by hand , yourself?




*****************


I Sub'd to see More!!!

The body covers I made out of Lexan sheets and wrapped in 3M CF Vinyl I had laying around.

These are not Arrma arms, what brand of Arms are these? (looks more like Team associated)

I got the idea after a lot of research; in fact I saw a photo of the Team Associated RC8B3.2 and notice they had the coolest looking control arms. I dug around and discovered that the arms off a Mugen would indeed work on the Typhon(essentially a Limitless but shorter). The associated car is basically a mugen copy? But I don't want to get into that battle; all I needed to know is if it bolted up and worked and it did!

My local track guys all mostly run AE cars; so I went there and bought the arms, The RC8B3.2 upper arms are much stiffer than the RC8B4 thus I went that route; however the lower control arm is from the RC8B4 (Which allows the carbon fiber plate to be top mounted) Given I had to adjust the caster proper with shims and adjust the camber with washers which are hidden inside of the blue caps you see at the end. It looks flawless i.m.o.
I am working on the rear right now and have a set of Mugen MBX8R rear control arms coming with carbon fiber inserts too(Much stiffer than the Arrma arms) The reason I went with the MBX8R arms is that they run a narrow C & D block(Older MBX6 also does too)(MBX7-8 will not work; the arms are shorter from all my research) which the TLR typhon also run narrow C & D Blocks so the arm lengths are longer. I don't know if it'll work but I'm willing to throw money at it and try.

Besides more carbon fiber is always nicer lol. The idea is to have stiffer control arms without having to go Aluminum; I do not like the weight of aluminum arms; reduces performance by adding unnecessary unsprung weight.

 

[chris adams]

Beautiful build and great creativity man. Job very well done.

 

[EJunlimited]

That looks great! Love all the CF.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

I got the idea after a lot of research; in fact I saw a photo of the Team Associated RC8B3.2 and notice they had the coolest looking control arms. I dug around and discovered that the arms off a Mugen would indeed work on the Typhon(essentially a Limitless but shorter). The associated car is basically a mugen copy? But I don't want to get into that battle; all I needed to know is if it bolted up and worked and it did!

My local track guys all mostly run AE cars; so I went there and bought the arms, The RC8B3.2 upper arms are much stiffer than the RC8B4 thus I went that route; however the lower control arm is from the RC8B4 (Which allows the carbon fiber plate to be top mounted) Given I had to adjust the caster proper with shims and adjust the camber with washers which are hidden inside of the blue caps you see at the end. It looks flawless i.m.o.
I am working on the rear right now and have a set of Mugen MBX8R rear control arms coming with carbon fiber inserts too(Much stiffer than the Arrma arms) The reason I went with the MBX8R arms is that they run a narrow C & D block(Older MBX6 also does too)(MBX7-8 will not work; the arms are shorter from all my research) which the TLR typhon also run narrow C & D Blocks so the arm lengths are longer. I don't know if it'll work but I'm willing to throw money at it and try.

Besides more carbon fiber is always nicer lol. The idea is to have stiffer control arms without having to go Aluminum; I do not like the weight of aluminum arms; reduces performance by adding unnecessary unsprung weight.

It is pretty clear you had a vision in mind on what you wanted to do and became obsessed on finding the solution.

Great job!

 

[RedondoBeachRC]

Can’t wait to see videos of it driving!

Are you going to bash with it, track racing, or speed runs?

 

[Dan B.]

Beautiful job, man. The control arm info should be very helpful to guys who don’t want to go aluminum. Very, very nice build.

 

[goretro77]

It's almost too nice to run!! Almost...Beautiful model.

 

[httuner]

Can’t wait to see videos of it driving!

Are you going to bash with it, track racing, or speed runs?

Some friends and I do parking lot autocross runs for fun; nothing competitive. I'd probably aim to do a few speed runs with it; overally I really do enjoy the building process a lot more.

Beautiful job, man. The control arm info should be very helpful to guys who don’t want to go aluminum. Very, very nice build.

Definitely! The front arms definitely do not flex with the carbon fiber inserts, I went with the thickest insert option they offer. I'm waiting next week for my rear Mugen arms to show up to test fit them and will report back with my findings.

 

[SrC]

The body covers I made out of Lexan sheets and wrapped in 3M CF Vinyl I had laying around.




I got the idea after a lot of research; in fact I saw a photo of the Team Associated RC8B3.2 and notice they had the coolest looking control arms. I dug around and discovered that the arms off a Mugen would indeed work on the Typhon(essentially a Limitless but shorter). The associated car is basically a mugen copy? But I don't want to get into that battle; all I needed to know is if it bolted up and worked and it did!

My local track guys all mostly run AE cars; so I went there and bought the arms, The RC8B3.2 upper arms are much stiffer than the RC8B4 thus I went that route; however the lower control arm is from the RC8B4 (Which allows the carbon fiber plate to be top mounted) Given I had to adjust the caster proper with shims and adjust the camber with washers which are hidden inside of the blue caps you see at the end. It looks flawless i.m.o.
I am working on the rear right now and have a set of Mugen MBX8R rear control arms coming with carbon fiber inserts too(Much stiffer than the Arrma arms) The reason I went with the MBX8R arms is that they run a narrow C & D block(Older MBX6 also does too)(MBX7-8 will not work; the arms are shorter from all my research) which the TLR typhon also run narrow C & D Blocks so the arm lengths are longer. I don't know if it'll work but I'm willing to throw money at it and try.

Besides more carbon fiber is always nicer lol. The idea is to have stiffer control arms without having to go Aluminum; I do not like the weight of aluminum arms; reduces performance by adding unnecessary unsprung weight.

Did those TA ams remove some of the inherent Positive scrub radius that the Arrma arms have? This affects roll center on PB front ends.
Was never a fan of the Arrma PB hubs (uprights). I feel they are dated by todays geometry RC standards.

 

[httuner]

Did those TA ams remove some of the inherent Positive scrub radius that the Arrma arms have? This affects roll center on PB front ends.
Was never a fan of the Arrma PB hubs (uprights). I feel they are dated by todays geometry RC standards.

I can't say forsure since I haven't really looked at too closely yet. I'd have to do some measurements when I get around to it.

 

[httuner]

I went and did the 3mm Team Associated Pins, Broken one 3mm drill bit trying to drill out the Arrma axle stubs, they are pretty tough. I really didn't have to do this part but I bought the Team Associated +2mm wheel hexes already(since they were cheaper compare to other options) and I later found out Arrma uses 2.5mm pins compare to the 3mm on the Team Associated ones. I really didn't want to not use them since it'll be waste so I drilled away.

Lets just say it adds a little beef to the drivetrain lol; I wanted to match the rear track width to the front and these +2mm did the trick. Excuse the little bit of de-burring I had to do.

 

[httuner]

Wanted to show more details on the end-caps on the arms; Inside of the upper blue cap contains 2 x .5mm thick stainless washers, the thickness of the endcap itself + the custom titanium washer on the outside brings the camber to an exact 1 degree negative. I like running 1 degree negative camber in the front for some steering stability (tested on my typhon to work really well) for me.

I had some Titanium M3x18 screws laying around to which I replaced the bolt for the sway bar link attachment to the control arms (Originally I had a stainless screw here with a M3 countersunk washer) Figure why not right?

ScorchRC recently released a rear spacer for their top deck since you no longer use the rear brace that attaches to the Chassis; I thought it'll look neat, its the fine details that matters right? lol Anyhow a trick I want to show here is that with the scorch deck, you eliminate the need for the original Arrma Top brace mount, It leaves behind an ugly attachment part that is not used; I couldn't find a viable solution until I accidentally bought the HotsRacing wing mount base that mounts to the gear box for the Typhon. Turns out its been the solution all along, really cleans up that rear end.

I built a custom servo link setup here from using the Traxxas rod ends and a M3 long grub screw some aluminum spacers ect. I'm still working on a viable solution here since the Traxxas end links have too much play. All the other aluminum choices available are not too good either, too much play or the balls are held in with o-rings which will eventually fail. I've been thinking the solution would be to remount the servo with the arm towards the back of the car and running a longer servo link arm I'm thinking about using the Mugen link here, its plenty long and Mugen quality is so much nicer (No play in the rod end balls) A better solution to come in the future.

 

[King blitz]

I wanted to share my journey building my limitless, I'm really not an R/C guy or so I tell myself but I am an automotive enthusiast and anything with wheels and tons of power is my addiction.

What started out as a $240 dollar brand new limitless deal off of FBmarketplace is now an obsession that is costing me more than a used Honda Civic.

I apologize as none of the photos are in order lol; I've been fighting to organize it and can't seem to make it work so I'd just be okay with it like this. (There are more photos but I'm limited to just 15 in one post lol)

Lots of titanium bolts in places that don't require much strength yet reducing weight ; Regular black steel screws in places it needs the strength; some stainless here and there just for looks.

I am not done yet; I have more things planned and will take better proper photos later on. More details to come. There is probably a lot I am missing here but its all I can think of right now; more recent photos to come! Thank you for stopping by.

Parts List;
ScorchRC Limitless V1 Tailored Chassis (Custom Drilled for V2 driveshaft assembly)
ScorchRC Limitless V2 Pinnochio Spool w/Trident Front Shaft & Scorch Rear shaft
ScorchRC Input Drive Cup (Rear)
ScorchRC Front Hubs / Scorch Titanium Pillow Balls
ScorchRC Rear Hubs
ScorchRC Titanium CVD Axles Front & Rear
ScorchRC CF Top Deck
ScorchRC Motor Mount
ScorchRC Servo Mount
ScorchRC Front & Rear Limitless Skid Plates
ScorchRC Servo Saver Eliminator Kit
ScorchRC Battery Strap Tie Downs

HotRacing F/R GearBoxes
HotRacing Typhon rear wing mount bracket
HotRacing Wing Brace / Mounts
HotRacing Wheel nut (Polished)

PerfectPass Carbon Fiber Kit
1Up Racing Titanium Bolts Misc.
ProTekRC Titanium Bolts Misc.
Acer Racing Bearing Kit
ProTekRC Servo Arm (Not pictured)
TLR Typhon Lower Control Arm Blocks F/R (So I can adjust Toe in the rear) Lots of tuning options (Polished)
Acer Racing Titanium TurnBuckles
Arrma EXB Upper Hinge Pin w/Hinge pin holders (Strip the red and Polished)
Arrma Typhon Receiver box
Rear Team Associated RC8 +2mm rear wheel hex/ 3mm Wheel Hex Pins (Drilled out the axle stub to fit 3mm pins)
SagaCustoms Battery Straps

Front Control Arm Setup:
Team Associated End Caps with Custom Titanium M6 Washers
Team Associated RCB3.2 Front Upper Control Arms w/
Avid Racing 1mm Carbon Fiber Insert / ProTek M3x8 Titanium Screws
Team Associated RCB4 Lower Control Arms w/ Avid Racing Titanium Dome Droop Screws / 1Up LowPro M3x6 Titanium Screws (Originally the lower inserts are to be used with a M2.5x6 screw but I drilled them to work with M3)
Avid Racing 2mm Carbon Fiber Insert / Avid Titanium Shock Pins / Team Associated Sway Bar Link Kit
(** You'd need to shim an extra 1mm on each side for the upper control arms; Use the mugen caster shim kit) On the bottom you'd have to shim 1mm on the back to push the lower control arm forward(Use the same caster shims on the upper control arms on the bottom)

Diff Setups;
500k Fluid Front / 200k Fluid Rear
Arrma Metal Case w/ Arrma Internals
Low Profile Titanium Bolts w/ Mugen Outdrives and pins (The Mugen outdrives are polished for smoother operation)

Suspension Setup;
2k Fluid / Perfect Pass Springs
Hot Racing Shock Caps
Hot Racing Shock Collars
Polished Arrma shock bodies.

GRP Xm7 Revo stiff wheels; also have a set of Xm7 slicks(Gone Banana Foams maybe in the future)

Electrics;
PerfectPass Servo
Castle XLX2 w 2028 1100kv (Saga 34T Spur/SpeedTek 40T Pinon)
Futaba GYC470 Gyro
Flysky Receiver modded with dual antennas.
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This is a custom skid plate I created with the original plastic limitless splitter; I originally tried to source a skid plate that would work but turns out I could just double-side tape the original splitter on by cutting it; this way the plastic is what hits the ground and not the carbon fiber which will fray and break.
View attachment 295904
Stripped the red off the shock bodies and rebuilt them; I since removed the green nitro tubing that I used as limiters since the Perfect pass springs are super stiff; The front shocks I cut some plastic tubing to about 6mm and placed them inside the shock shaft to limit down-travel to limit my ride height. Car is sitting 10mm off the ground from the skid plate I created for the splitter to the ground.
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What a beautiful machine awesome job .built with love.i admire the detail

 

[BudUMfan]

Subbed. Cause I have no words. It’s off the charts innovative, fast and sexy. I’m way to irresponsible and poor to have that masterpiece. Sweet Hesus. It’s awesome.