insomnia77
Active Member
Hey guys is there anything I should check before I bring this out for a run. For example do I need to check diff fluids? I'm already traumatized from whole exb rear diff ordeal lol but I'll do what I need to do.
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Hey guys is there anything I should check before I bring this out for a run. For example do I need to check diff fluids? I'm already traumatized from whole exb rear diff ordeal lol but I'll do what I need to do.
No, all good. The rear tires are supposed to tow in a little.
Strangely I noticed the rear wheels bow inward. They are not straight like the front. Is that another adjustment that should be made?? It might be hard too see in pics.
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He is correct....see the image I attached off Amain site for the Granite... It helps it to drive straight from what I read hear as a newbie some time back...
Looking over my new BR today...yes diffs fluids can be topped off and bit more grease in the outer diff housing. Arrma is bad about diff fluids on all their RCs so if you are going to be doing some serious running of it...at some point check this ASAP.
I also found that the set screw that holds the 14mm hex on the tire hubs:
1. Not all were tight snug...two were very loose
2. None had any loctite being metal to metal
I like the longer 3x4mm set screws over the small ones that come with it...regardless check yours for tightness and add some loctite.
I do not think you have any suspension binding but still check it...take the tires off, remove the lower shock screw only and see if the suspension arm drops freely when you lift it and not stick or hang...
View attachment 100878
Oh mine don't bow like that. Mine bow inward from the center - top of the wheels. The bottom of the wheels bow out. So it looks like the inner part of the wheel will wear out sooner.
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Set steering end points, you will have to look up the procedure in the SLT3 manual online. Mine were not set correctly.
I would set the camber (bowing you refer to) to approximately 1 degree inward.
Check the slipper setting, mine was about 3/4 turn too tight.
Might want to set Punch to 5. Personal preference.
That's negative camber, they are supposed to be like that. It helps grip when turning. If you drove straight all the time, the inner part would wear out sooner. But when you turn, the car tilts. That negative camber keeps more tire on the surface. I adjusted mine when I first got the Granite, but over months of use, I re-adjusted according to tire wear. The result is I'm right back to factory settings. It will depend on your driving style, but I don't think there's reason to adjust unless you notice uneven wear.Oh mine don't bow like that. Mine bow inward from the center - top of the wheels. The bottom of the wheels bow out. So it looks like the inner part of the wheel will wear out sooner.
That's negative camber, they are supposed to be like that. It helps grip when turning. If you drove straight all the time, the inner part would wear out sooner. But when you turn, the car tilts. That negative camber keeps more tire on the surface. I adjusted mine when I first got the Granite, but over months of use, I re-adjusted according to tire wear. The result is I'm right back to factory settings. It will depend on your driving style, but I don't think there's reason to adjust unless you notice uneven wear.
If you decide to adjust, you should make sure the turnbuckles are all aligned. If you look closely, there is a line on one side of the turnbuckles. Make sure they are all on the left side (when looking down at the truck from the top). Arrma is a bit sloppy in this regard. My Granite did not come with all the turnbuckles aligned. Once they are all on the left, turning the turnbuckle wrench towards the front of the car will make the turnbuckle shorter (more camber), turning towards the back of the car will make them longer (less camber).
I would check diff fluids, like many others, my Arrma came with very little diff fluid. I also set the ESC punch to 5.
Camber doesn't affect the ability to pull out the diff.
Camber adjustments are millimeters, adjusting camber won't help. Just remove the screw that goes through the piece below the turnbuckle (the rod end). Then it will be entirely disconnected, you'll have infinite slack. Removing the screw that holds the top of the shock will also make it easier to take out the diff.
Check the slipper setting, mine was about 3/4 turn too tight.
Yep that would have diffed out and possibly blew a tire. Good catch ??I got diff out by removing screw for each turnbuckle. I opened the rear diff......basically no fluid!
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