Kraton New version hot racing diff cups? Worth it?

[spence]

Hi guys, in the process of reviving my kraton v2 again. I'm a little torn if I should stay with the stock diff cups and just replace them more frequently, or get the new version hot racing diff cups.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-Racing...238159?hash=item3fcf9eeacf:g:IRwAAOSwKtBdscVy


I have the old black version of the HR cups, didn't like them really. The new version has a steel bush inside and is cheaper than the previous version. The issue with the plastic cups is that there is a finite amount of times you can take it apart before the ring gear will pull the screws right out under power (blew a center diff this way). But really once you get it assembled there is really no need to take them apart.

On the other hand with the aluminum cups was that the screws would always let loose, and let the magic goo out, as well as contaminate the diff fluid with ground up aluminum. Tried threadlocker didn't really work, the stock cups have that threadlocker way about them cause they're plastic.


I'm just curious what you guys do. I'm thinking of sticking with the stock cups cause they're only $10 a piece


Thanks-
Spence

 

[adidas303]

Consensus from the members state the HR cups aren't all that great and the Arrma brand metal cups are better. Although as most use the stock cups with little to no issues! If your bashing pretty hard, lots of jumps, drive in a lot of dirtier areas, then I would recommend the metal ones for the durability. It will help fend off lil rocks that hit or grind against the cup and still seal up just as good as stock! ?

 

[slick2500]

I have the Hot Racing 3 piece diff cups and the only issue I had with them was trying to get the mesh right between the crown gear and the diff pinion gear, but I also have the Hot Racing gearbox cases. Getting the seal on properly is a giant pain the rear as well.

 

[spence]

Consensus from the members state the HR cups aren't all that great and the Arrma brand metal cups are better. Although as most use the stock cups with little to no issues! If your bashing pretty hard, lots of jumps, drive in a lot of dirtier areas, then I would recommend the metal ones for the durability. It will help fend off lil rocks that hit or grind against the cup and still seal up just as good as stock! ?

Wow! The arrma upgrade cups are waaaay better than that of the hot racing period. The face plate is separate and all steel The diff case is aluminum, and the price is good, under $20 a piece Cool

Should work fantastic

 

[Blownupcr125]

I use the gpm aluminum cup and have had pretty good luck with them as long as the o rings are good and gasket with just the right amount of fluid in it and they are almost half the price

 

[spence]

Consensus from the members state the HR cups aren't all that great and the Arrma brand metal cups are better. Although as most use the stock cups with little to no issues! If your bashing pretty hard, lots of jumps, drive in a lot of dirtier areas, then I would recommend the metal ones for the durability. It will help fend off lil rocks that hit or grind against the cup and still seal up just as good as stock! ?

I have a question though, would the stock diff cup pin retainers/metal reinforcers work with the beefed up Arrma cups?

 

[Blownupcr125]

Wow! The arrma upgrade cups are waaaay better than that of the hot racing period. The face plate is separate and all steel The diff case is aluminum, and the price is good, under $20 a piece Cool

Should work fantastic

I was checking them out and considering trying one also they do look well designed

 

[bicketybam]

I've only had an issue with my center diff cup when a rock got stuck next to it and wore a groove into it. I own all the 6S bashers and that has been my experience. Next had a front or rear cup fail. The ones in my Kraton are almost 2 years old.

 

[Blownupcr125]

I've only had an issue with my center diff cup when a rock got stuck next to it and wore a groove into it. I own all the 6S bashers and that has been my experience. Next had a front or rear cup fail. The ones in my Kraton are almost 2 years old.

Loo did it look kind of like this

 

[slick2500]

I use the gpm aluminum cup and have had pretty good luck with them as long as the o rings are good and gasket with just the right amount of fluid in it and they are almost half the price

Problem with the GPM cups is the same as the old style Hot Racing cups, they lack a steel insert where the drive cup goes through, over time the drive cups will hog out that hole, that was what happened to my GPM cup anyway.

 

[bicketybam]

Loo did it look kind of like this

Yes it did. It was my Mojave and it happened when I was running it without the body. Totally my fault. But you should get into the habit of turning your truck upside down periodically while bashing and shaking all the crap out.

 

[Blownupcr125]

Problem with the GPM cups is the same as the old style Hot Racing cups, they lack a steel insert where the drive cup goes through, over time the drive cups will hog out that hole, that was what happened to my GPM cup anyway.

Yea I haven’t had that problem with them yet but definitely makes sense

Yes it did. It was my Mojave and it happened when I was running it without the body. Totally my fault. But you should get into the habit of turning your truck upside down periodically while bashing and shaking all the crap out.

Lol yea I do it just happens so quick that’s what originally made me upgrade to the aluminum cups

Yea I haven’t had that problem with them yet but definitely makes sense


Lol yea I do it just happens so quick that’s what originally made me upgrade to the aluminum cups I only run them on the center diff considering how much strain gets put on them that’s probably why people have so many problems with them leaking they get pretty toasty when running hard

 

[MrTitanium]

I ditched my stocks diffs before I even ran my Infraction. I installed the HR AON1101 diff cups (front and rear) and the Arrma ARA020050 unit (for the center)... all with Mugen gears and shims and have had zero issues with fits and clearances with either the HR or the Arrma unit. It’s all about attention to detail and taking the time to deburr, shim and dry assemble everything before adding the oils. Devil is in the details ??

Looking to buy a Kraton 6S sometime this week and I’ll be doing the exact same setup.

If you have the cash, I say go for it.

 

[Jimbobjr]

I guess I don’t mind the grooves in my center dif. I only had one center dif fail being ground through with a rock out of 6 6s Arrmas. Adding rotating weight to the drive train isnt worth it to me not to mention just the weight of the steel caps and aluminum housings. Anyone ever compare them? I bet they are double the weight.

 

[SrC]

I ditched my stocks diffs before I even ran my Infraction. I installed the HR AON1101 diff cups (front and rear) and the Arrma ARA020050 unit (for the center)... all with Mugen gears and shims and have had zero issues with fits and clearances with either the HR or the Arrma unit. It’s all about attention to detail and taking the time to deburr, shim and dry assemble everything before adding the oils. Devil is in the details ??

Looking to buy a Kraton 6S sometime this week and I’ll be doing the exact same setup.

If you have the cash, I say go for it.

Attention to fit and finish is important. I agree. Trial fit all parts several times. Check for rough machining and deburr and polish as necessary. Use some grease on the dog bone cups before re-assembly into the diff. carrier. Use a silicone grease lube on the O-rings. The small details matter on these diffs.. It appears there's no margin for error with these diffs. A quick slap it together diff rebuild will brick quickly. From my exp. I rebuilt diffs more than 30 times in 3 years. Many were defective out the box and from Jenny's/had to rebuild them new. To me its the worst part about these 6S rigs. And diff fluid is not cheap doing it 30+ times. I get better durability now. Its a learning curve. I follow Tekno's manual for doing Arrma diffs. My TeknoMT diffs have never failed in 3 years. Obviously more precision. Feel like new by comparison to my Arrma rigs.

Edit: Yesterday discovered my new Limitless has a rear blown diff. out the box. Spooled up for the first time just on the bench to dial in the electrics. Fluid blew out onto the arms. The diff is locked. Here we go again. Honestly, I don't feel like being a slave anymore to these Arrma 6S diffs. I may have to go Mugen diff parts in the end. Not cheap though to retro all my Arrma diffs in this way.

 

[bicketybam]

Attention to fit and finish is important. I agree. Trial fit all parts several times. Check for rough machining and deburr and polish as necessary. Use some grease on the dog bone cups before re-assembly into the diff. carrier. Use a silicone grease lube on the O-rings. The small details matter on these diffs.. It appears there's no margin for error with these diffs. A quick slap it together diff rebuild will brick quickly. From my exp. I rebuilt diffs more 30 times in 3 years. I get better durability now. Its a learning curve. I follow Tekno's manual for doing Arrma diffs. My TeknoMT diffs have never failed in 3 years. Obviously more precision. Feel like new by comparison to my Arrma rigs.

My Kraton internals are almost 2 years old, running more than the stock power. I think a lot of it comes down to driving technique ???

 

[jkflow]

Problem with the GPM cups is the same as the old style Hot Racing cups, they lack a steel insert where the drive cup goes through, over time the drive cups will hog out that hole, that was what happened to my GPM cup anyway.

All you need to do is add a shim between the pin and the cup. 5x18x0.2 mm
Same with the HR cups, no shim and the hard steel pin will grind it into dust.

 

[slick2500]

All you need to do is add a shim between the pin and the cup. 5x18x0.2 mm
Same with the HR cups, no shim and the hard steel pin will grind it into dust.

You mean like this? Those marks are from the shim not the pin. GPM on the left Hot Racing on the right.

 

[Blownupcr125]

You mean like this? Those marks are from the shim not the pin. GPM on the left Hot Racing on the right.
View attachment 73319

Looks like those diffs were shimmed a little to tight to me

 

[slick2500]

Looks like those diffs were shimmed a little to tight to me

Not mine a pic someone posted on the Bookface.