Outcast Outcast 1/5 Scale EXB Build

[abennie8]

Saw some budget oriented builds and have been using it to plan my build, so far I have a list compiled to hopefully get it ready to slap some batteries in and rip. Here’s what I have so far:
Hobbywing Max 5 with their 800kv motor
M2C Bell Crank kit once it’s back in stock
Primal Raminator Servo
Still undecided on radio system
Is there any other suggestions or parts I should look into or things you guys have found are just haves on these trucks?

 

[Raginbull74]

Your discovery of gearing options dependent on motor kv mixed with your driving style or evolving driving styles will be a fun journey. There are TONS of gearing/motor threads on here. I would drive it once it's together first unbiased. As far as parts...etc...I would replace the 20mil in the center with silicone ear plugs...then go drive it. Replace things as they break if this is your maiden voyage with arrma 1/5 scale. I will say, with the 800 it would be a good start to go with the 39t spur. You will inevitably get multiple pinions to find out what works best for you.
Good luck!

 

[abennie8]

Your discovery of gearing options dependent on motor kv mixed with your driving style or evolving driving styles will be a fun journey. There are TONS of gearing/motor threads on here. I would drive it once it's together first unbiased. As far as parts...etc...I would replace the 20mil in the center with silicone ear plugs...then go drive it. Replace things as they break if this is your maiden voyage with arrma 1/5 scale. I will say, with the 800 it would be a good start to go with the 39t spur. You will inevitably get multiple pinions to find out what works best for you.
Good luck!

Yeah, sounds like that’ll be what will happen. Hoping to get some more replies for more insight on fan set ups I should look into etc. I say guys recommending Radio Control Power for that stuff so that’ll be where my esc and motor comes from, probably end up running whatever fan set ups are recommended from them as well. I was using the search feature to gather information initially but was hoping to get a lot of info contained into one location.

 

[Matt05]

Looks like you’ve got a great start. The EXBs are pretty solid in my opinion stock. I’d swap the diffs to 1million in the front, ear plugs in the center and 500k in the rear.

Gearing you’re probably going to be 34T-39T pinion with the 39T spur. I run the upgraded aluminum Arrma diff cups on my Kraton 8s, but I’ve had luck with the plastic ones on my Outcast. Switching them to aluminum when I go through the diffs. I’ve got a 980kv in my Outcast and run 30/39, which is probably down on power a little, but I don’t like to run fans unless I have to.

I run my Outcast with the dumbo x6, but I also have a Radiolink RC6GS which is pretty budget minded and has model memory.

Get a @3d-rc.myshopify.com front bumper spring, because you will undoubtedly break that pretty quick.

I put carbon fiber tube over the red tower to tower braces to add some strength and cause I hate red.

Otherwise I’d just rip it and fix stuff as needed.

 

[abennie8]

Looks like you’ve got a great start. The EXBs are pretty solid in my opinion stock. I’d swap the diffs to 1million in the front, ear plugs in the center and 500k in the rear.

Gearing you’re probably going to be 34T-39T pinion with the 39T spur. I run the upgraded aluminum Arrma diff cups on my Kraton 8s, but I’ve had luck with the plastic ones on my Outcast. Switching them to aluminum when I go through the diffs. I’ve got a 980kv in my Outcast and run 30/39, which is probably down on power a little, but I don’t like to run fans unless I have to.

I run my Outcast with the dumbo x6, but I also have a Radiolink RC6GS which is pretty budget minded and has model memory.

Get a @3d-rc.myshopify.com front bumper spring, because you will undoubtedly break that pretty quick.

I put carbon fiber tube over the red tower to tower braces to add some strength and cause I hate red.

Otherwise I’d just rip it and fix stuff as needed.

You referring to the weight of the diff oil and what do you mean by ear plugs in the center? New to this and confused by quite a bit of terminology.

 

[Matt05]

You referring to the weight of the diff oil and what do you mean by ear plugs in the center? New to this and confused by quite a bit of terminology.

Yes diff oil weights. By ear plugs I mean regular old silicone ear plugs. Just tear them up and cram them into the center diff as tightly as you can.

 

[abennie8]

My Outcast showed up a couple weeks ago, been working some crazy hours and in the process of remodeling my house but getting ready to order the rest of the stuff to build it.
Bought a Hota F6+ charger
Radio link RC6GSV3 and a R7FG
M2C bellcrank kit
Waiting to order the rest of the electronics and batteries then I’ll put it together.
Have to say, this thing already looks awesome.

 

[harith7oe]

Check out my Outcast 8S budget build that's been running strong for nearly a year now:

Kit:
I got the kit as a used roller from a buddy for a sweet deal of $550. Originally, it was a BLX, but he already convert it into an EXB with some M2C parts – that includes the chassis, hinge pin block, front and rear CVDs, and rod end.


ESC:
Initially, I was thinking of going with an unbranded MAX5 ESC rated at 200A, priced at $100. But lucky me, my go-to local hobby shop was having a sale, so I snagged the MAX5 for just $120.

Motor:
I went straight to the source and ordered the motor from China. My initial plan was to grab the 1090kv 5593 Surpass motor, but somehow, I ended up with the 780kv 56112, which I kinda regret because it's a bit on the heavy side. The motor set me back $85, including shipping.

Servo:
For the servo, I went with the JX Servo PDI-HV2070MG because it was the cheapest one I could find. Again, I ordered it directly from China, and it cost me $25.

Miscellaneous:
I grabbed a few more unbranded parts from China:

• Aluminum diff cases for both the front and rear at $10 each.
• There's also the motor mount for big-can motors, and it came complete with a plate, all for $20.
• I even got myself a pair of 7mm thick CVDs with 4mm pins, complete with a diff cup. I stuck these on the rear side since I managed to snap both rear MC2 CVD pins. ($40)
• Surpass hobby heat sink + fan mount (40mm fan)

Tires:
I ended up rolling with Louise Mt-Pioneer tires for $65, but to be honest, I'm leaning more towards the stock ones. They're lighter and provide better cushioning for those rough landings.

Currently Im running with 40/47 gearing seems like the sweet spot for me. I don't like how it behave on 39/39 to much torque and I keep on snapping the CVD pins.

Keep in mind, I'm living in Asia, and that's why I always go straight to China for parts – it's the wallet-friendly way to do it.
Hope this helps - PEACE-

 

[abennie8]

What’s everyone doing for bodies? Reinforcing a stock one, basher body, Probody? My stock one is cooked at this point as I have not been nice to this thing. It’d be cool if they made the bodies as strong as the trucks themselves.

 

[harith7oe]

What’s everyone doing for bodies? Reinforcing a stock one, basher body, Probody? My stock one is cooked at this point as I have not been nice to this thing. It’d be cool if they made the bodies as strong as the trucks themselves.

Good ol shoe goo and drywall tape , my body somehow managed to tough it out for nearly two years of rough handling. I just gotta keep an eye out for any cracks, and when I spot one, slap some drywall tape and shoe goo on it. Don't leave it unattended, or it'll only get worse