Outcast Outcast 4s chassis broken at front hinge pin

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vabeachnewb

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new member here.

Picked up a new “v2.5” outcast last week from local hs. Unfortunately we experienced chassis failure at front lower hinge pin area. Seems like this has been an ongoing problem with these vehicles. This has been submitted for warranty I will update with outcome. Hopefully RPM releases some updated arms for this truck as the old v2’s are different. I will probably get the new M2C hinge pin retainer for when it all goes back together. Wondering if I should have gone with the Maxx at this point.
 
Kraton 6s is always the best way to go because you can always run on 4s if you want but what you could do us ditch the 4s get a new or used kraton 6s got mine got 350 there basically indescribable box stock
 
Welcome to the club. Just replace with factory parts and as you learn how far you can push these without breakage, developing better driver skills, you will have more fun and less downtime wrenching.
4s line is what it is. And is too new yet. The first ones were a disaster. Takes years to refine a model. 6s is way better. A Very mature platform at this point and run fine with 4s packs as well. Not telling you to get the 6s version now instead. But........

What parts specifically broke? You can upgrade it till the cows come home. What little is available....Throwing much $$ at it. In the end they are only so durable and have their limits. YT influencers make sending it look realistic . Much is just BS. Stock Parts are fine in the beginning until you figure out what battles are worth fighting with your wallet. Many are not $worth$ it. Only you can decide what works for you.
Better get used to going to JennysRC.com for OE parts. Your wallet will thank you.
If you are hitting objects , then you need more wide open space till your skills get better.
Don't jump it all that far and high as well in the beginning. Don't do a KT with your rig. Takes hundreds of hours of wheel time to be a star. And even the YT stars break their stuff. Much being edited out sometimes. .:ROFLMAO:
 
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I don’t mind fixing things. In hindsight I should have done a little more research first I guess. I just wonder if there is really a fix for the problem . So the lower A arm ripped off and took the hinge pin with it breaking the chassis in the process. Also sheared the aluminum block that goes across under the front skid plate to hold the hinge pins.Point of this post being I guess is there is still an inherent problem with this design that needs refinement.
 
Sorry that it took out your chassis. No upgrade can truly resolve that Plastic chassis issue. Is what it is. You will learn much about wrenching when you go to swap out the chassis for a new one. A big teardown process, doing it by assembly removal fashion..:(
Arms and hinge pins would be normal inexpensive common parts to replace. Most any RC model
What you would expect to replace if anything.
 
Oh yeah. At least it’s enjoyable to work on. It baffles me when I see these guys sending their xmaxx 20 plus feet straight up and reporting no damage
 
I don’t mind fixing things. In hindsight I should have done a little more research first I guess. I just wonder if there is really a fix for the problem . So the lower A arm ripped off and took the hinge pin with it breaking the chassis in the process. Also sheared the aluminum block that goes across under the front skid plate to hold the hinge pins.Point of this post being I guess is there is still an inherent problem with this design that needs refinement.

I’m assuming you ran into something hard or launched it 10ft plus and landed on a front corner? That will break the chassis.

You can launch an RC car high, but if you’re not landing on the tires you’re likely to break something (on most any car).
 
Oh yeah. At least it’s enjoyable to work on. It baffles me when I see these guys sending their xmaxx 20 plus feet straight up and reporting no damage

Yes, sending it 20ft up is not the problem.
Landing on all Four wheels... That's a different story.


Not saying your driving skills are not up to par..
 
Well when something is advertised as a stunt truck, And you go through two lower a arms, and a rod end, and a chassis in the first week, it makes you wonder exactly to what extent of stunt is it really capable
And yes. Not arguing about the driving skills definitely need to be developed
 
Well when something is advertised as a stunt truck, And you go through two lower a arms, and a rod end, and a chassis in the first week, it makes you wonder exactly to what extent of stunt is it really capable
And yes. Not arguing about the driving skills definitely need to be developed

This is what it’s capable of—


I jumped it about 25x in a row with a few 20ft+ double backflips and landed it every time, no damage. Then I jumped it 15ft high and landed on a corner and broke a shock shaft. That’s basically how RC works.
 
That's not fair @razorrc , you are a ringer, been a track pro for some years.:LOL:
 
Guess it’s just the cost of doing business. Expensive education right?

You don't need to go straight to the end boss right out of the gate. Drive on 3S with some 3-5ft jumps. Master that and then move onto some 8ft jumps. Add in a backflip, etc.
That's not fair @razorrc , you are a ringer, been a track pro for some years.:LOL:

What's really interesting, is driver skill is not as important as you think. I have a few very experienced buddies that seem like they drive like complete poop. Like they couldn't get through half a pack without breaking their cars. I gave them my cars to drive, and they were driving like pros doing huge backflips and stuff. They just didn't know how to set up their cars to drive properly.

Same thing at a track -- my buddy had never driven before, couldn't get through a corner without crashing the rental Slashes and flipping over. I gave him my car, and he was instantly turning laps no problem. Zero experience.

Car setup is so important, completely uncharted territory for most people.
 
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Also I hope rpm makes the arms that fit this new version. Seems like if the arms would break away it would spare the carnage
 
You don't need to go straight to the end boss right out of the gate. Drive on 3S with some 3-5ft jumps. Master that and then move onto some 8ft jumps. Add in a backflip, etc.


What's really interesting, is driver skill is not as important as you think. I have a few very experienced buddies that seem like they drive like complete poop. Like they couldn't get through half a pack without breaking their cars. I gave them my cars to drive, and they were driving like pros doing huge backflips and stuff. They just didn't know how to set up their cars to drive properly.

Same thing at a track -- my buddy had never driven before, couldn't get through a corner without crashing the rental Slashes and flipping over. I gave him my car, and he was instantly turning laps no problem. Zero experience.

Car setup is so important, completely uncharted territory for most people.
This is good advice. I still run my electric cars, one step down from max "s" rating, usually due to space constraints. That said, I'm usually running a HW combo, for anything over 3s. Only place I can see needing to go full 6-8s is maybe dunes. Guys on YT are testing to destruction, and they are busting up cars for clicks/money. That don't work for me. I like to see what a car will take, but I'm not good enough to send a new $800 plus machine 20+ feet high, until I'm confident I can put it on the rubber, at least 8 out of ten times. Like he said-incremental advancement. :cool:(y)
 
Car setup is so important, completely uncharted territory for most people.
So true.
Couldn't agree more.
Doing a quality race kit build for a track, just one time, will really break you in fast. The fundamentals of a good setup at least.
(y)
 
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