Kraton Pinion change

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What about a soldering iron?
Works too if you have a tip that can get enough surface area in the right spot and an iron that gets hot enough. I've done that before without issue just takes longer because you obviously aren't going to be able to use solder to help transfer the heat faster.
 
Did any of you have a hard time getting the screws loose on the sliding motor mount? I broke a hex driver today on mine.
Motor mount was tough, pinion even worse. Thing wouldn't budge, even with the grub screw already out. Warmed it up with a lighter for a few mins, until it finally came off...
 
Motor mount was tough, pinion even worse. Thing wouldn't budge, even with the grub screw already out. Warmed it up with a lighter for a few mins, until it finally came off...
I've always thought about getting something like this or making something like it but never have. Would make it a lot easier.
pinion_puller.jpg
 
Those generally don't work on the Arrmas because of the motor mounting plate.
Ah yeah I can see that. Would have to pull the motor out which would ultimately be impossible with a big pinion on thus defeating the purpose. Maybe make my own
 
Have to ask , why do you have to use a bearing and shims ? Once you take off the stock "D" pinion and use one that has a grub screw , why would you be putting the "C" clip back on as you would line up the pinion to the spur and tighten the grub screw and that is what will hold it there?
Also , still want to know , can/should I use the 20t that came w my Mojave ? Or are you guys going with Tekno/Robinson because of hardness ?
 
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Have to ask , why do you have to use a bearing and shims ? Once you take off the stock "D" pinion and use one that has a grub screw , why would you be putting the "C" clip back on as you would line up the pinion to the spur and tighten the grub screw and that is what will hold it there?
Also , still want to know , can/should I use the 20t that came w my Mojave ? Or are you guys going with Tekno/Robinson because of hardness ?
People are using bearings and shims in order to have a surface against which to press with the C clip because the C clip adds an extra retaining system if the pinion comes loose. Even if you are not using a safe-d5 pinion, but are still using the C clip in the method described, the pinion cant come off even if the grub screw loosens. I would recommend going bigger than 20t, like a 23-25t depending on how fast you want to go, because even if you aren't concerned with breaking 50mph, using a 24 or 25t will make in air control significantly better during jumps. Main reason people use robinson and tekno is hardness, and also tekno pinions have a giant fatty grub screw which is virtually impossible to strip out.
 
People are using bearings and shims in order to have a surface against which to press with the C clip because the C clip adds an extra retaining system if the pinion comes loose. Even if you are not using a safe-d5 pinion, but are still using the C clip in the method described, the pinion cant come off even if the grub screw loosens. I would recommend going bigger than 20t, like a 23-25t depending on how fast you want to go, because even if you aren't concerned with breaking 50mph, using a 24 or 25t will make in air control significantly better during jumps. Main reason people use robinson and tekno is hardness, and also tekno pinions have a giant fatty grub screw which is virtually impossible to strip out.
Thank you , the reason I had said 20t was I have one , but won't use now because I see it is half as thick as the pin/spur on the K8S. Speed is ok with the stock 17t , figured 20t would make it a little faster without being concerned with motor temps . I am leaving the stock electronics for now , where thought everyone I've seen put in the 23T's , had changed their electronics . Do you think putting a 23T on the stock electronics will be OK ? Of course I wouldn't mind the extra speed , so maybe I'll just wait a few more days until that D 23T pinion comes out from Arrma .
 
Thank you , the reason I had said 20t was I have one , but won't use now because I see it is half as thick as the pin/spur on the K8S. Speed is ok with the stock 17t , figured 20t would make it a little faster without being concerned with motor temps . I am leaving the stock electronics for now , where thought everyone I've seen put in the 23T's , had changed their electronics . Do you think putting a 23T on the stock electronics will be OK ? Of course I wouldn't mind the extra speed , so maybe I'll just wait a few more days until that D 23T pinion comes out from Arrma .
Yeah no issues I'm on stock electronics 24t temps don't even break a sweat.
 
speed , so maybe I'll just wait a few more days until that D 23T pinion comes out from Arrma .

Ugh. I’ve been waiting for this pinion for the last 3 weeks, but they keep pushing it back. It was “Mid Dec”, then “Late Dec” and now shows as “backordered” on Horizons site.

I ordered a Tekno 23T this morning to try. I like the extra security of the D lock and clip design, but man, how long does it really take to get pinions in stock guys.

I’m really excited to see what it will do with a 23T. I’ve seen videos on YouTube and it looks to be a game changer that way.
 
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