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On Sunday I did a little parking lot drive and tested the rear wing. I cut together some "highlights" and a little comparison of the different driving behaviors with and without the wing. Hope you find it interesting
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Looks fun. Ideally if you could do repeat runs with the car at 100% around a high speed turn and compare the setups. A GoPro hero5 or newer will show speed and G-force to compare the data.On Sunday I did a little parking lot drive and tested the rear wing. I cut together some "highlights" and a little comparison of the different driving behaviors with and without the wing. Hope you find it interesting
View attachment 259706
That's exactly how I want to test. But I don't have a GoPro for telemetry. So maybe compare the times through the turn via my (runcam thumb pro) footage.Looks fun. Ideally if you could do repeat runs with the car at 100% around a high speed turn and compare the setups. A GoPro hero5 or newer will show speed and G-force to compare the data.
The reason the GoPro would be nice is that on video you could see entry speed into the turn and exit speed which would be helpful. (along with the g-meter)That's exactly how I want to test. But I don't have a GoPro for telemetry. So maybe compare the times through the turn via my (runcam thumb pro) footage.
And I could try setting the skyrc GPS to a 100-meter run, then I would have a graph of the speed I was doing.
Is there any way to measure G-force without a GoPro?
I actually prefer swan necks and chicken wings...
What about something like this?The reason the GoPro would be nice is that on video you could see entry speed into the turn and exit speed which would be helpful. (along with the g-meter)
I am not certain how you could capture similar data with another device although I am sure they exist. I think the SkyRC only captures g-meter for drag runs and likely wouldn't work out for this use case.
I came across this when doing some research on the forum. What FM Panasonic caps did you use?
And what is the voltage rating all about? 35v seems still ok for 8s lipo since castle uses them...
But I bought 50v caps because I read in a FPV copter guide that they use 35v minimum for 6s and 50v minimum for 8s. Or is 35volts ok since we use higher capacitance in the cars than in the drones.
https://oscarliang.com/capacitors-mini-quad/#Capacitor-Gets-Hot-After-Flight
I feel ya. Without a proper Venturi tunnel I have my my own questions as to the effectiveness of diffusors in terms of generating downforce on these RC cars. If I'm not mistaken, neither James McCoy nor Tony Ingalls run diffusors on their GT cars.Hey, short update:
I made a 35v cap pack 9x 680uF Fm panasonic.
And a new suspension mounted diffuser. It has extra long vertical strakes to shield the diffuser from tire turbulence.
However, I am not sure wether it produces meaningful downforce.
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Hey, short update:
I made a 35v cap pack 9x 680uF Fm panasonic.
And a new suspension mounted diffuser. It has extra long vertical strakes to shield the diffuser from tire turbulence.
However, I am not sure wether it produces meaningful downforce.
View attachment 289492
View attachment 289493
View attachment 289494
Yeah, but not since 1982.That turned out really nice! It appears your angle is far more realistic than the 25 deg. that Arrma used on the Limitless/Infraction/Felony.
I am in that same school of thought that the air gap under the car is too tight to allow enough airflow. There will be a boundary layer interaction with the bottom of the car and another with the ground. I don't think there is enough gap between those two for an under-car venturi to be useful.
BUT I have been wrong before
It seems like the 1717 you get is either going to fail early or live forever if I take a cross section of the reports of people's experience with their 1717. But I'm with you on the reporting bias. I've made the same argument in previous threads. It appears as though we hear a lot more about grenading motors but, yeah....that's just kind of obvious. Most content providers/creatos don't post videos titled, "Yep, motor still works". Parts failure is just a natural spectator sport of most tech oriented hobbies.@Lennart Don't worry about the 1717. You hear about all the 5 people that grenaded them but you don't hear about the 10,000 people that haven't had any issues.
I've run my at 55K RPM for speed runs with no issues, with that said, it could blow into pieces at any time. But it is what it is and I will run it till it doesn't work anymore. It's not something I worry about. Would I bash with tall gears and high RPM - ah probably not.
As for the temp 65°C is fine and shouldn't be even close to anything damaging. There's also a difference between running temp and resting (storage) temp. When I do a speed run, I might see 75-80°C when the run is done. If I let it sit, the temp gets much higher which tells me the temp sensor is starting to read the true temperature or the sensor is out of range and doing weird stuff. Either way it's just sitting there with no stress on it.
Their isn't much in the motors (magnets, coils and some sensors) I don't believe it's an electronics issue. Which leads me to believe the temperature issue (others pleases chime in) is mechanical. The first is the bearings and lubrication. The second is the thermal expansion. The third might be any insulation or bonding material thermal limits. But, again hot is different than hot under stress.
BTW I'm sure (or at least I hope) that Castle tests every motor that goes out the door for max RPM to make sure it doesn't fly a part.
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