Typhon Rear diff full of dirt

[slick2500]

I just use general purpose grease, the cheap stuff they sell at walmart that comes in those long tubes that go in a grease gun.

 

[SrC]

Have a magnet? You could find out....

I was thinking a magnet also.

I just use general purpose grease, the cheap stuff they sell at walmart that comes in those long tubes that go in a grease gun.

Yes wally world
.A tube of marine grade is also cheap. My choice.

 

[JvG]

I had the same issue because the rear end of the chassis was bent so the bulkhead didn't completely cover the chassis.

 

[SrC]

i never used grease for sealing the diff. doesn't that atract a lof of dust? I usually try to keep my kraton as cleaner as possible... if i'd see a chink of dirt around the diff cups i would start crying... lol

also i'll definetely buy those tekjo gaskets!

What happened is you did not keep your diff housing bolts tight after use. Dirt will ingress. It's fine because only finer dirt entered the housing. And it got refined with your gears. Go to JennysRC and get new. It's all shot. Replace new. A gasket is an option, but a smear of water proof grease or any thick grease at the base will prevent that by sealing it. Wipe off extra grease that oozes out. But you don't need much. Gasket, grease, or nothing, this will result again if you don't keep the 4 chassis tight. They loosen with impact. Normally seen. I am sure there is some metal in the mess. But a moot point. It all needs to be replaced now. This is nothing out of the norm. No surprises here.
Also if you used your rig in water excessively. The water brings in fine dirt then the water dries leaving fine dirt.. In my Crawler diff. which I run through some streams has looked like this in the past. I use grease on the pumpkin cover, it minimizes the issue greatly. Has your rig been in deep water much? It only takes one time to cause this. I would inspect both front and rear housings together. This may be happening at both diff housings.

 

[MrQQ]

What happened is you did not keep your diff housing bolts tight after use. Dirt will ingress. It's fine because only finer dirt entered the housing. And it got refined with your gears. Go to JennysRC and get new. It's all shot. Replace new. A gasket is an option, but a smear of water proof grease or any thick grease at the base will prevent that by sealing it. Wipe off extra grease that oozes out. But you don't need much. Gasket, grease, or nothing, this will result again if you don't keep the 4 chassis tight. They loosen with impact. Normally seen. I am sure there is some metal in the mess. But a moot point. It all needs to be replaced now. This is nothing out of the norm. No surprises here.
Also if you used your rig in water excessively. The water brings in fine dirt then the water dries leaving fine dirt.. In my Crawler diff. which I run through some streams has looked like this in the past. I use grease on the pumpkin cover, it minimizes the issue greatly. Has your rig been in deep water much? It only takes one time to cause this. I would inspect both front and rear housings together. This may be happening at both diff housings.

The op diff is not mine. is from @Typhon6smax ?

Your point about the water is something to keep in mind...

 

[SrC]

I just use general purpose grease, the cheap stuff they sell at walmart that comes in those long tubes that go in a grease gun.

Yes wally world
.A tube of marine grade is also cheap. My choice.

 

[Typhon6smax]

Looks chewed up to me ? This is my input gear. I'll definitely buy a new one and also check the diff itself. I believe there is a warranty on this? I've never opened it up before.

 

[MrQQ]

Looks chewed up to me ? This is my input gear. I'll definitely buy a new one and also check the diff itself. I believe there is a warranty on this? I've never opened it up before.

View attachment 43506View attachment 43507

Yeah it's pretty worned. But that's normal. Sometimes I wonder how they last so long considering the brutal pressure it suffers. You can send it to warranty but keep in mind that this kind of problem is normal...

 

[jondilly1974]

Looks chewed up to me ? This is my input gear. I'll definitely buy a new one and also check the diff itself. I believe there is a warranty on this? I've never opened it up before.

View attachment 43506View attachment 43507

You can buy the whole diff from JRC for $25

 

[Typhon6smax]

You can buy the whole diff from JRC for $25

View attachment 43517

But I don't need the whole diff. I think I only need a new input gear, the diff and the crown wheel look good for now.

 

[nino]

It's good practice to change both gears at once (same as chain and cogs on a bike), and the extra parts you get from Jennys makes it worth IMO.

 

[jondilly1974]

But I don't need the whole diff. I think I only need a new input gear, the diff and the crown wheel look good for now.

Those parts new cost more than a whole diff from a parts breaker ??‍

 

[SrC]

Yeah it's pretty worned. But that's normal. Sometimes I wonder how they last so long considering the brutal pressure it suffers. You can send it to warranty but keep in mind that this kind of problem is normal...

This is pretty much normal wear and tear. Not uncommon in any brand of rig using input and ring gears like these.

 

[Typhon6smax]

Those parts new cost more than a whole diff from a parts breaker ??‍

Okay, but I live in Europe so that is not an option for me. I know they have International shipping but I don't want to wait that long. I'll buy it from my LHS

 

[SrC]

Okay, but I live in Europe so that is not an option for me. I know they have International shipping but I don't want to wait that long. I'll buy it from my LHS

That's what I thought and why I asked if you are emailing Arrma direct in the UK. HH USA is not an option for you. HH US will not honor international, only domestic. The regions are clearly defined.
Please let us know how the warranty process works where you are. I am very curious if you actually get knowledgeable tech support in addition to simple parts replacement through your local Arrma venue. Tech. supp. and parts support are two different things. Great post.
Enjoy.

Those parts new cost more than a whole diff from a parts breaker ??‍

@jondilly1974 is correct. Heed his advice.

 

[Primarrma]

There was a UK parts breaker I thought? Anyone know the name?

 

[jondilly1974]

Okay, but I live in Europe so that is not an option for me. I know they have International shipping but I don't want to wait that long. I'll buy it from my LHS

There are European breakers on eBay as well. Same value.

 

[crimsonfancy]

This is the grease I bought. Looked at way too many reviews and learned much more about grease than I'll ever need.
The white lithium is what I have in my 3s diff housings. The WD-40 stuff is for 6s.

 

[slick2500]

This is the grease I bought. Looked at way too many reviews and learned much more about grease than I'll ever need.
The white lithium is what I have in my 3s diff housings. The WD-40 stuff is for 6s.

View attachment 43577

I have some of that Lucas lithium grease and it does okay on diffs, it usually turns brown or black after a few runs.

 

[SrC]

I played around with white lithium grease years ago. I always felt it was too thin and thinned out more with high temps and with very cold temps it tends to harden up right away. I use marine grade synthetic grease types like the picture. Being more temp. stable at extremes. But what ever works for you. I could be wrong. Traxxas uses lithium grease on their gears. Maybe that is not saying much? I know that lithium grease is very inexpensive in general.