Kraton RPM or T Bone front bumper

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MrDuke, I might have a solution to the screws pulling thru. I take a 4mm flat head chassis screw and either put threaded part in the vise on a drill press or chuck it in the lathe and drill through the head with a #20 drill. the head breaks off the screw and stays on the drill. You are left with just the flat head and no screw. make up 4 of those and stick them in the countersinks in the chassis and screw your t bone on over it. Now the plastic has some support behind it. I haven't pulled any out since I've done this. Can't post pics atm because I'm at work but I think you get the idea.
If you check out the POS Racing Parts website, they include the exact type of spacers you made, with each of their bumper and skid plate sets. It's a great idea, and well thought out on your part.
 
MrDuke, I might have a solution to the screws pulling thru. I take a 4mm flat head chassis screw and either put threaded part in the vise on a drill press or chuck it in the lathe and drill through the head with a #20 drill. the head breaks off the screw and stays on the drill. You are left with just the flat head and no screw. make up 4 of those and stick them in the countersinks in the chassis and screw your t bone on over it. Now the plastic has some support behind it. I haven't pulled any out since I've done this. Can't post pics atm because I'm at work but I think you get the idea.
If you check out the POS Racing Parts website, they include the exact type of spacers you made, with each of their bumper and skid plate sets. It's a great idea, and well thought out on your part.

I'm one of the lucky ones here then as I'm in the UK and POS will ship to me..?

@Jimbobjr The diy spacer idea is great but I doubt many average guys could make them themselves which is a shame..?

Not if, but when I break my T-bone bumper I will just buy and fit POS, I can't warranty my T-bone anyway as I'm in the Uk and it took nearly 3 weeks to get to me originally..!!? who knows how long I would have to wait to get a replacement..???

In my opinion if POS supply their bumpers with those countersunk spacers and they are as strong as people say, then I think they will be the best on the market hands down..???
 
@Jimbobjr The diy spacer idea is great but I doubt many average guys could make them.
May be able to just use a power drill and hold the screw in a vise. Definitely easier in a drill press though.
The POS stuff is really nice. I hope they get an eBay store sometime and ship to other countries so more of us can give their stuff a try.
 
Bumper talk got me all questiony here... Are bumpers really necessary? Could a nose landing possibly break an A-arm or something? I see a lot of people running without (esp buggies) and they seem fine. Aside from hitting poles head on, they look like they can cause more trouble than they're worth.
 
May be able to just use a power drill and hold the screw in a vise. Definitely easier in a drill press though.
The POS stuff is really nice. I hope they get an eBay store sometime and ship to other countries so more of us can give their stuff a try.
After all this bumper talk last night, I emailed Stefan at POS. He replied this morning saying he will ship to Canada???. If anyone is really interested, you should go to the website and send him a message through the contact link there.
https://www.pos-modellbau.de/kontakt/. I suggest you turn on Google translate if you browse through chrome. Not sure what shipping will be, but he's requested I give a list and full address for a quote.
 
I'm not running a bumper on my Talion and so far so good. I even nose dived it into the ground from the berm at the BMX track. I think I am just going to run it bumperless.
 
Bumper talk got me all questiony here... Are bumpers really necessary? Could a nose landing possibly break an A-arm or something? I see a lot of people running without (esp buggies) and they seem fine. Aside from hitting poles head on, they look like they can cause more trouble than they're worth.
You make a great point Nino. I've been running my Noto with the little Typhon bumper ever since my T Bone broke. I think having The M2C chassis is the key here. On a stock bumper, I likely would have taco'd the front by now, but every front hit on the M2C seems to have no affect. Having the chassis skid that's part of most of these aftermarket bumpers is a huge plus though. I think I've been lucky though. The a arms are taking a lot of extra punishment in a roll or cartwheel, and it's just a matter of time. Bumpers deflect a lot of the energy in a roll, so right now, my wheels are the only thing making contact when it does.
 
You make a great point Nino. I've been running my Noto with the little Typhon bumper ever since my T Bone broke. I think having The M2C chassis is the key here. On a stock bumper, I likely would have taco'd the front by now, but every front hit on the M2C seems to have no affect. Having the chassis skid that's part of most of these aftermarket bumpers is a huge plus though. I think I've been lucky though. The a arms are taking a lot of extra punishment in a roll or cartwheel, and it's just a matter of time. Bumpers deflect a lot of the energy in a roll, so right now, my wheels are the only thing making contact when it does.
Bumpers are for the weak. And women ?
 
...well call me Nancy :ROFLMAO:

It is always a tough question to answer. Speaking only for myself after seeing some of the trees I have hit and nose darts I have landed, I can only presume it has been useful. I also suspect that it contributed to the screws flogging out the holes in the diff too
 
...well call me Nancy :ROFLMAO:

It is always a tough question to answer. Speaking only for myself after seeing some of the trees I have hit and nose darts I have landed, I can only presume it has been useful. I also suspect that it contributed to the screws flogging out the holes in the diff too
I think the spacers that @Jimbobjr mentioned, could be the solution to the problem. What he suggested isn't as difficult as it may seem. You can use vice grips to hold the screw, and just drill down the center. If you've ever had a screw head strip, this would be the same step you take to try to remove it. Sh!t, just thinking about it, I've done three already, and those heads went straight into the garbage. Gotta jump in my Delorean time machine and go back to pick them up.
 
Yeah I've been thinking about his idea. Still mulling it around at the moment. The other problem I have is that the extra long screws you get with the wheelie bar have bent. I can try to hammer them out to a degree as part of that screw has no thread. The safe option is to see if I have any nuts that will fit and thread a bunch of them on and try hammering them straight otherwise I'll need to try and source replacements which is hard as I work long hours (9:45pm here and only on my way home now)
 
...well call me Nancy :ROFLMAO:

It is always a tough question to answer. Speaking only for myself after seeing some of the trees I have hit and nose darts I have landed, I can only presume it has been useful. I also suspect that it contributed to the screws flogging out the holes in the diff too
I was only kidding :ROFLMAO:
 
Bumper talk got me all questiony here... Are bumpers really necessary? Could a nose landing possibly break an A-arm or something? I see a lot of people running without (esp buggies) and they seem fine. Aside from hitting poles head on, they look like they can cause more trouble than they're worth.
Not sure if they are necessary, but I find when running in grass or soft dirt, having a longer bumper would take a lawn dart landing and turn it into a glancing blow. As we all know, the arrma (and most other non 7075 chassis) don't do well when all the energy of a dead stick landing is forced to be absorbed in the chassis itself. So, anything I can add to my truck to turn some of my less than stellar lawn dart landings into a rock skipping on a pond, I'll do it. Having the energy dissipate in forward motion makes it a lot less likely that you will snap arms, taco a chassis, rip packs out, tweak motor mounts, etc..

I'm a pretty awful driver so I like to do what I can to help mitigate that.

I run RPM front on my outcast and t-bone rear with arrma wheels on the TBR wheelie bar as I tore the tires off the TBR ones and shattered the arrma wheelie bar into bits, so figured I'd use the wheels for something.

I run TBR on my ERBEv1 front and rear, my stampede 4x4 front, my eJato front, both savages on the rear.

On the ERBEv1 and outcast, I put steel wear bars on the bottom where it screws to the chassis as both trucks drag their nose and ass when bashing in the skate parks on the face of the jumps. If I didn't have the wear bars, I'd chew through the skids/bumpers in a matter of a single bash session. That's a fact as I've done it. Used to do the same on my LST/aftershock as it did the same thing. The savage's don't see to dip that low and I should do it on my stampede, but haven't gotten around to it. I have steel wear bars on both of my nitro revos in the rear as well as they burn through rear skids badly.

With the TBR skids, where it mounts on my revo on the front bumper, I also put a plate so the screws wouldn't pull through as I ripped them through once. I also shattered the TBR front skid when I hit a tree at WOT in mid flight (see fore mentioned lack of driving skill). The impact also shattered my bulkhead into pieces. Got a replacement front skid from TBR in a matter of a few days.

On the rear of my outcast, I removed the block TBR includes that's used to space it/mount it to the rear bulkhead as it was ripping my screws out. I cut the remaining piece down, removed my sway bars, then repurposed the screw holes for the sway bars to hold the skid, then used longer screws on the diff cap. Has been fine since.

On the front of my stampede, I broke the TBR upper piece that ties the top of the bumper/skid to the truck a couple times. It's since been replaced with a piece of a heavy duty rubber bungee. I've also busted one of the bumper cross bars when I hit a steel pole (again, see above for driving ability).

In the end, TBR and RPM make better parts than I can. Even if I have to adjust them to work for my needs, I'll still buy them.
 
MrDuke, I might have a solution to the screws pulling thru. I take a 4mm flat head chassis screw and either put threaded part in the vise on a drill press or chuck it in the lathe and drill through the head with a #20 drill. the head breaks off the screw and stays on the drill. You are left with just the flat head and no screw. make up 4 of those and stick them in the countersinks in the chassis and screw your t bone on over it. Now the plastic has some support behind it. I haven't pulled any out since I've done this. Can't post pics atm because I'm at work but I think you get the idea.

@Jimbobjr .... that idea you suggested is just brilliant..???

I used some stainless steel screws as they are softer than 12.9's and being silver I can see them when I drop them on the floor..??

And here they are ? they need tidying up a bit as they are razor sharp in places..

Thx @Jimbobjr

IMG_2601.jpeg
 
I'm one of the lucky ones here then as I'm in the UK and POS will ship to me..?

@Jimbobjr The diy spacer idea is great but I doubt many average guys could make them themselves which is a shame..?

Not if, but when I break my T-bone bumper I will just buy and fit POS, I can't warranty my T-bone anyway as I'm in the Uk and it took nearly 3 weeks to get to me originally..!!? who knows how long I would have to wait to get a replacement..???

Just to say I've had some warranty replacements to the UK from them and they were pretty straight forward and about 10 days. My Outcast TBR bumper has been faultless but their V1 wing support was absolute junk, V2 looks better but sticking with the RPM units that bend...
 
I cant read all this

Is there any super good bumber now today ? = that is super durable
Need order them soon to one 2019 S6 Talion Truggy and also one 2019 S6 Outcast truck. Both is the latest versions As we speak here.
Something big and good that protects the front like awsome. Alot Backflips they must take some NOSE diving because of BEER sometimes.

I have RPM in other brand cars. Very happy with them.
 
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