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Thats what i was thinking just to solder one EC5 connector on!The problem is the size of the male bullets off the xt90 which is a tad too small to make a perfect connection with the female ec5 plug. While these two plugs may work together; there is potential for problems later on.
You can solder just one EC5 connector on; if your not using 2 EC5 batteries.
I'd recommend watching some soldering tutorials on Youtube if you have no experience before proceeding so that you understand the basics of how to ensure that you get a good bond/penetration and how to recognize it. Power leads that need to withstand a few hundred amps are not the place where you want a poor solder joint.Thats what i was thinking just to solder one EC5 connector on!
Is it easy enough to solder on with no soldering experience ?
You may be at a cross road there and need to think about what connectors are best as you buy more lipos. Committing to one type. XT90s are less expensive and also available in Anti Spark types (XT90-S) which are cross compatible to standard XT90's. I feel they are more mainstream.
All of the batteries i have so far are EC5 just because the first car i had (typhon 3s) has an EC5 connection on the ESC. Then my 2nd car came with XT90 connection. I don't use any spektrum smart.You may be at a cross road there and need to think about what connectors are best as you buy more lipos. Committing to one type. XT90s are less expensive and also available in Anti Spark types (XT90-S) which are cross compatible to standard XT90's. I feel they are more mainstream.
I would leave the XT90 on the ESC. And use them on the Lipos as well. Don't use any adapters! And don't get used to connecting EC's to XT's! NG as stated above.
I feel XT's are easier to solder. I feel the only reason you would want Spektrum EC/IC connectors are for Smart Spektrum compatibility. If you are ALL in with that fluff.
Just my opinion.
Yessir. Best thing is to have everything with the same connectors. It'll make your life a lot easier.All of the batteries i have so far are EC5 just because the first car i had (typhon 3s) has an EC5 connection on the ESC. Then my 2nd car came with XT90 connection. I don't use any spektrum smart.
So would i be best to change my batteries to XT90 and typhon 3s to XT90 then any other lipos i get in future just get XT90 ?
Yes. What I would do.All of the batteries i have so far are EC5 just because the first car i had (typhon 3s) has an EC5 connection on the ESC. Then my 2nd car came with XT90 connection. I don't use any spektrum smart.
So would i be best to change my batteries to XT90 and typhon 3s to XT90 then any other lipos i get in future just get XT90 ?
If I were to nitpick, I'd say make the type of connector dependent on what kind of current you're expecting to see. I run QS8 on 3S as well, but that's more as a result of what I do with the car. I'm regularly seeing 500-600A and I'd be a bit uneasy about doing that with any other connector. But generally speaking, spot on the .Yes. What I would do.
All XT90's from the start. And don't look back. Future 6s rigs as well.
Sucks to have a mix of rigs with all different connectors.
I have 17 rigs here. All XT60's for my 2s 1/10 rigs. And the rest are all XT90's. ( 1/8 -1/6 rigs) All 6s rigs.
With 8s rigs I would move up to QS8 connectors..
Thanks for the replyI'd recommend watching some soldering tutorials on Youtube if you have no experience before proceeding so that you understand the basics of how to ensure that you get a good bond/penetration and how to recognize it. Power leads that need to withstand a few hundred amps are not the place where you want a poor solder joint.
Some tips I can give you to get started and to make it easier. Generally speaking:
Some RC specific tips:
- Make sure your soldering iron has at least 45W for 10AWG, 60W for 8AWG, and 100W if you're soldering QS8s.
- If you can, use rosin core leaded solder of the 63/37 variety.
- If you can only get 60/40, make sure that the solder joint remains absolutely still during crystallization so that you don't get a cold solder joint.
- If you can only get lead-free solder, increase the wattage above by 10-15W as it's difficult to reflow the solder once it crystallizes.
- Put a tiny bit of soldering flux inside the cup for better adhesion and solder flow.
- Apply a tiny bit of solder to the tip to increase contact area of the iron and press it onto the wire. Apply the solder to the wire, not the iron. Otherwise the solder may just sit on top of the wire instead of penetrating into it.
- A third hand of some kind comes in very handy to help hold wires where you need them to be.
Hope this helps. Hop on Youtube and watch 2 or 3 videos. If you have any questions beyond that, don't hesitate to ask.
- Put the opposite connector on the end of the one you're soldering. This will prevent the pins from moving should the plastic get softened from the heat.
- Make sure the contacts of this are covered when soldering batteries so that you don't accidentally short the battery when making contact with something made of metal.
- If you're soldering pins that go into a connector (such as EC5 for example) get yourself a piece of wood and drill a hole in it so that the pin is a snug fit. This makes it much easier to hold the pin and the wood won't suck the heat out of your solder joint like something made of metal.
Sure thing bro. No, should not be a problem. I've never had an issue with it anyways. If it's adjustable, I typically turn my soldering iron up to maximum as this reduces the length of time you need to hold the iron to the material before you get proper solder penetration (unless I'm soldering thin little wires, then I'll turn it down to 300-350°C).Thanks for the reply
I have had a watch of a few videos so im going to give it a go need to get a soldering iron and all the bits first…..
when soldering a connector onto the ESC i wont damage anything in the ESC with the heat going down the cable ?
Done properly, soldering flow is done fast. So heat should not pose a problem.Thanks for the reply
I have had a watch of a few videos so im going to give it a go need to get a soldering iron and all the bits first…..
when soldering a connector onto the ESC i wont damage anything in the ESC with the heat going down the cable ?
you gotta remember, those esc wires were soldered to the esc at some point. the heat from the opposite end of the wires wont do anything to the esc.Thanks for the reply
I have had a watch of a few videos so im going to give it a go need to get a soldering iron and all the bits first…..
when soldering a connector onto the ESC i wont damage anything in the ESC with the heat going down the cable ?
What Deim said, don't mix and match connectors. This is what happens when they don't seat correctly. This was a matching connector, connected by an idiot (me).Don't try to mix connectors. If you don't have a tight fit you run serious risk of arcing, melting and, possibly, fires. Settle on one kind of connector and then put that on everything you have.
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