Soldering Recommendations

[BrokenBasher]

Hey yall

I have to get ready to solder a new battery plug on an ESC and going to delete one plug from stock ESC as well.

I’ve got brazing experience with my job using oxygen/acetylene and turbo torches brazing and sweating anything from 1/8-1 1/2” copper and aluminum but never soldering irons. Im assuming it’s essentially the same practice, heat the underside of the joint, apply solder to the top of the joint and let it flow until you have a pretty/smooth solder joint all the way around. No bubblegum joints essentially.

I’m looking at this kit and won’t be used a whole lot but essentially a starter kit to do simple solders and want to know if it will be sufficient I don’t need a super rig. Also any tips are much appreciated thanks!

https://www.amazon.com/YIHUA-Soldering-194ºF-896ºF-Adjustable-Calibration/dp/B082F1WKP9

 

[gotnitro]

Soldering 101 gotnitro style:

Grab bullet
Heat bullet with torch
Fill bullet 3/4 with solder
Put wire in the torch heat while still keeping the bullet hot
Put wire in bullet

If the wire doesn’t heat up 2-3 inches above the joint to the point of not being able to touch it, you need to redo. Add in more solder till the joint is full. I don’t use irons anymore.

 

[jkflow]

Got an 80W soldering iron from Weller, not any soldering stations, they don't have enough mass to get enough heat to the connector.

 

[dure16]

I’ve been happy with this thing:

Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station FX-888D FX-888 (blue & yellow) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ANZRT4M?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_DWQPK10JBSF35YHK0RVB

 

[SrC]

Hey yall

I have to get ready to solder a new battery plug on an ESC and going to delete one plug from stock ESC as well.

I’ve got brazing experience with my job using oxygen/acetylene and turbo torches brazing and sweating anything from 1/8-1 1/2” copper and aluminum but never soldering irons. Im assuming it’s essentially the same practice, heat the underside of the joint, apply solder to the top of the joint and let it flow until you have a pretty/smooth solder joint all the way around. No bubblegum joints essentially.

I’m looking at this kit and won’t be used a whole lot but essentially a starter kit to do simple solders and want to know if it will be sufficient I don’t need a super rig. Also any tips are much appreciated thanks!

https://www.amazon.com/YIHUA-Soldering-194ºF-896ºF-Adjustable-Calibration/dp/B082F1WKP9

Looks to be a nice soldering station.
Use the large blunt tip for Lipo pack/ESC connectors for sure. Make sure to Pre-Tin any NEW soldering tip. A procedure for this. Very important. I usually get my Solder iron to 650F+ temps and work fast. If its taking too long to get the joint right, you are doing something wrong. Then stop and regroup. Preparation is 90% of the task for success. A jig or "Third Hand" will help greatly. Even a Vice-Grip will work. Pre-Tin all wires and connectors first. Seems you already have a good understanding already. Just this is much finer work than brazing. I usually wipe down the joints with a solvent or alcohol to remove any remaining excess Flux fro the solder's core. It is corrosive and not needed after the soldering is complete. Excess remaining Flux can appear as Brownish and it corrodes the wire leads over time. I always rather use a Leaded solder. Keep a fan nearby to draw the fumes away from you in a well ventilatated area. No children should be around. I think you know this already....The lead-free stuff is garbage IMHO. Needs higher temps. It is used in factory production. For us hobbyists Leaded is best. And Leaded solder also doesn't work well with lead-free solder. Some Food for thought.
We are hear if you get stuck. The Solder joints should appear very Shiny, not dull. If it's dull, then it is a "Cold Joint", NG. Can disconnect when heat flows along the wiring circuit or from impacts. Always tug on the joints to confirm they are well soldered. Or risk a fire.
Use shrink wrap where necessary over the joints depending on your chosen connector. I like my XT90's or the Anti-spark versions of the same for all my 3s-6s rigs.
Good luck.

 

[BrokenBasher]

Soldering 101 gotnitro style:

Grab bullet
Heat bullet with torch
Fill bullet 3/4 with solder
Put wire in the torch heat while still keeping the bullet hot
Put wire in bullet

If the wire doesn’t heat up 2-3 inches above the joint to the point of not being able to touch it, you need to redo. Add in more solder till the joint is full. I don’t use irons anymore.

I really like the torch approach but something in my gut tells me I’ll be making lead extensions, wire repairs, or soldering directly onto an ESC or motor connection in the future which I doubt a torch will be good for.

Looks to be a nice soldering station.
Use the large blunt tip for Lipo pack/ESC connectors for sure. Make sure to Pre-Tin any NEW soldering tip. A procedure for this. Very important. I usually get my Solder iron to 650F+ temps and work fast. If its taking too long to get the joint right, you are doing something wrong. Then stop and regroup. Preparation is 90% of the task for success. A jig or "Third Hand" will help greatly. Even a Vice-Grip will work. Pre-Tin all wires and connectors first. Seems you already have a good understanding already. Just this is much finer work than brazing. I usually wipe down the joints with a solvent or alcohol to remove any remaining excess Flux fro the solder's core. It is corrosive and not needed after the soldering is complete. Excess remaining Flux can appear as Brownish and it corrodes the wire leads over time. I always rather use a Leaded solder. Keep a fan nearby to draw the fumes away from you in a well ventilatated area. No children should be around. I think you know this already....The lead-free stuff is garbage IMHO. Needs higher temps. It is used in factory production. For us hobbyists Leaded is best. And Leaded solder also doesn't work well with lead-free solder. Some Food for thought.
We are hear if you get stuck. The Solder joints should appear very Shiny, not dull. If it's dull, then it is a "Cold Joint", NG. Can disconnect when heat flows along the wiring circuit or from impacts. Always tug on the joints to confirm they are well soldered. Or risk a fire.
Use shrink wrap where necessary over the joints depending on your chosen connector. I like my XT90's or the Anti-spark versions of the same for all my 3s-6s rigs.
Good luck.

This is definitely good stuff man I really appreciate it. Never looked into tinning but seems simple enough. The catching fire is my biggest fear with this because as you said bad joint leads to a broken wire and that is no good.

 

[Dan B.]

Hey yall

I have to get ready to solder a new battery plug on an ESC and going to delete one plug from stock ESC as well.

I’ve got brazing experience with my job using oxygen/acetylene and turbo torches brazing and sweating anything from 1/8-1 1/2” copper and aluminum but never soldering irons. Im assuming it’s essentially the same practice, heat the underside of the joint, apply solder to the top of the joint and let it flow until you have a pretty/smooth solder joint all the way around. No bubblegum joints essentially.

I’m looking at this kit and won’t be used a whole lot but essentially a starter kit to do simple solders and want to know if it will be sufficient I don’t need a super rig. Also any tips are much appreciated thanks!

https://www.amazon.com/YIHUA-Soldering-194ºF-896ºF-Adjustable-Calibration/dp/B082F1WKP9

Watch some RC specific soldering videos on YouTube. It ain’t the same as brazing. I came from the same background and it was steep learning curve.

Got an 80W soldering iron from Weller, not any soldering stations, they don't have enough mass to get enough heat to the connector.

I don’t know what soldering stations you’re referring to, but mine is a damned site better than an 80wt Weller. Under $60.00 and adjustable up to 900°. It works very well, and has replaced a Hakka station I used for years. Puts more heat than you need into those big 8mm connections, has a ceramic element that rebounds very quickly, and has been dead-nuts reliable. I’d recommend it highly.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RVMZNYR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Dan B.]

https://www.amazon.com/YIHUA-Soldering-194ºF-896ºF-Adjustable-Calibration/dp/B082F1WKP9

That’s a little underpowered for not much difference in price.

 

[BrokenBasher]

Watch some RC specific soldering videos on YouTube. It ain’t the same as brazing. I came from the same background and it was steep learning curve.

I don’t know what soldering stations you’re referring to, but mine is a damned site better than an 80wt Weller. Under $60.00 and adjustable up to 900°. It works very well, and has replaced a Hakka station I used for years. Puts more heat than you need into those big 8mm connections, has a ceramic element that rebounds very quickly, and has been dead-nuts reliable. I’d recommend it highly.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RVMZNYR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I like that one too. Just a more powerful version of the one I linked above. The tips you get with it sufficient for what you have done so far? I like the helping hands but I have various hobby vices and Clamps I can use to hold things while I solder.

Also I have a bunch of scrap wire I was going to practice on to get the hang of it before I do the plug.

That’s a little underpowered for not much difference in price.

Exactly what I was just thinking, only “benefit” is the helping hands but they are probably cheap and will break and I’ll be back to vices and clamps.

 

[Dan B.]

I like that one too. Just a more powerful version of the one I linked above. The tips you get with it sufficient for what you have done so far? I like the helping hands but I have various hobby vices and Clamps I can use to hold things while I solder.

Also I have a bunch of scrap wire I was going to practice on to get the hang of it before I do the plug.

Exactly what I was just thinking, only “benefit” is the helping hands but they are probably cheap and will break and I’ll be back to vices and clamps.

A couple of small pairs of locking pliers will replace the helping hands all day long. They hold everything firmly and allow you to keep your hands free to solder. Most “helping hands” I’ve tried are now in the trash because they don’t have enough tension to hold things firmly enough.
Something like these work well:
https://www.amazon.com/FASTPRO-4-Pi...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Also, use flux and really good solder. These will make you look like a hero with just a little bit of practice:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004X4KS7O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MR49JY1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
In regard to your previous question, the tips that come with the soldering station I recommended are “adequate” but can of course be upgraded with others for not much money. I found that it’s key to clean the tips thoroughly (wet sponge and/or brass wool) while hot and tin them before storage. Otherwise they corrode. I’m still using the tips that came with the station almost a year later, though.
And if you decide to order that station, be sure and throw the included solder in the trash immediately upon receipt. Never use lead free solder for this application.

 

[SrC]

I like that one too. Just a more powerful version of the one I linked above. The tips you get with it sufficient for what you have done so far? I like the helping hands but I have various hobby vices and Clamps I can use to hold things while I solder.

Also I have a bunch of scrap wire I was going to practice on to get the hang of it before I do the plug.

Exactly what I was just thinking, only “benefit” is the helping hands but they are probably cheap and will break and I’ll be back to vices and clamps.

Yeah I got a few Third hands and the cheapos from AMZ, and the others suck. They tip over and the clips break apart. Always happens while you are soldering.... I cursed those dam things many times during soldering... Vice grips or a midget vice is way better.

 

[BrokenBasher]

A couple of small pairs of locking pliers will replace the helping hands all day long. They hold everything firmly and allow you to keep your hands free to solder. Most “helping hands” I’ve tried are now in the trash because they don’t have enough tension to hold things firmly enough.
Something like these work well:
https://www.amazon.com/FASTPRO-4-Piece-Locking-Pliers-Included/dp/B07VPTSHSZ/ref=sr_1_27_sspa?crid=3NO33R7MWVH50&keywords=needle+nose+vice+grips&qid=1682536002&sprefix=needlenose+vice+brips,aps,103&sr=8-27-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzNTZMWEozM0lPVUhOJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDE0NjQxM0MxWFI1WUNGR01UViZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMzY2MzMwMk9aUlpIOExIQkxIRCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX210ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Also, use flux and really good solder. These will make you look like a hero with just a little bit of practice:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004X4KS7O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MR49JY1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
In regard to your previous question, the tips that come with the soldering station I recommended are “adequate” but can of course be upgraded with others for not much money. I found that it’s key to clean the tips thoroughly (wet sponge and/or brass wool) while hot and tin them before storage. Otherwise they corrode. I’m still using the tips that came with the station almost a year later, though.
And if you decide to order that station, be sure and throw the included solder in the trash immediately upon receipt. Never use lead free solder for this application.

Those were the next things I was going to be looking into. If you have brazed too it’s like 15% vs 5% silver solder. Both do the job but 15% gives waaay better results, quality is worth it.

Yeah I got a few Third hands and the cheapos from AMZ, and the others suck. They tip over and the clips break apart. Always happens while you are soldering.... I cursed those dam things many times during soldering... Vice grips or a midget vice is way better.

between scrap wood, scrap sheet metal to plate the wood and various vices and wood clamps I’ve got an idea for a soldering jig I’ll fab up.

 

[SrC]

I feel a basic Temp controlled Digital soldering station is a good investment for any RC'er or even a DIY guy who tinkers with electronics in general. In 35 years, I've been through several. I just need one here at all times. Doesn't have to be the best. But a middle of the road one. My next one might be a "Rework'" station, that has a heat blower.

 

[gotnitro]

I really like the torch approach but something in my gut tells me I’ll be making lead extensions, wire repairs, or soldering directly onto an ESC or motor connection in the future which I doubt a torch will be good for.

It's great and easy for making bullet connections but yes, you'll need a soldering iron for ESC connections. BUT, there are only a small amount of ESC's that require that today, mainly for racing i.e., Tekin.

 

[dure16]

I've posted this before, but I think reading this post is worth the time for everyone in this hobby:

https://www.rctech.net/forum/radio-electronics/336870-how-solder-correctly-not-so-brief-lesson.html

 

[BrokenBasher]

I've posted this before, but I think reading this post is worth the time for everyone in this hobby:

https://www.rctech.net/forum/radio-electronics/336870-how-solder-correctly-not-so-brief-lesson.html

Thank you for this! Time to do some reading!

 

[Jchammbone]

80w weller iron here.... homemade "holders" 3rd hand etc. Works for me.
Just pre tin everything like mentioned before.