Fireteam Someone help talk me out of this Castle combo…

[Tyrus]

I just went through a sensor problem with the 2028 1100kv in my kraton 8s. I've been dealing with weird problems for I don't know how long and I could never figure it out. The last time I took it out it was the worst it's ever been. It started cogging and cutting off and was undriveable. When I got home I finally got the bright idea to try removing the sensor cable and the rig worked amazingly well after that. I was kicking myself for not trying it sooner. Granted I haven't tried a new cable yet so I guess it's possible it's just the cable but for some reason I doubt it. Haven't had a problem in a 1717 yet though and I think I have 4 of them.

I had the same issues with my Mamba X and sensored 1410 motor in one of my cars early on and unplugging sensor cable worked as well. What I found was that I’d gotten it wet where the sensor cable plugs into the esc and the sensor wires were shorting and making things act reallllly weird. The components are waterproof but I guess the connections on the esc are not and I had to seal with dielectric grease (and where it plugs into the motor for good measure) to keep that from happening every time I drove through a puddle. Never had it happen since. Apologies if you’ve already tried that, it could most definitely be a bad motor.

 

[Surchaufeur]

The more I consider it, the more I think I’d feel the same. I do think I would like it but it would probably bother me knowing it isn’t exactly what I wanted. I’ve bought a fair amount of rc stuff just because it was a good deal then it sits around and I wonder what I was thinking.

What do you mean by their sensor sucking? I have a couple 3S sensored combos and they seem great but I also haven’t owned any other sensored brands so I can’t compare.

The price is so goood. If I can convince my LHS to match Amazon I might get it. (Because I’m lazy and trash and don’t want to solder my own connectors into it, SO SUE ME!)

The sensor is known for failing. so you lose the sensorless feature.

 

[Garcbomber]

On a road basher and especially an over-geared top speed seeker it’s nice to crawl around and not have the motor cycle and ratchet at low speeds. On an off-road basher the sensor is only a benefit for temp and load failsafes.

 

[Moirae]

On a road basher and especially an over-geared top speed seeker it’s nice to crawl around and not have the motor cycle and ratchet at low speeds. On an off-road basher the sensor is only a benefit for temp and load failsafes.

They sound nice too!

Listen to that beautiful 1717 1650kv combo

 

[dure16]

On an off-road basher the sensor is only a benefit for temp and load failsafes.

I like the smooth power delivery in off-road bashers as well.

 

[Tyrus]

I like the smooth power delivery in off-road bashers as well.

I’m with dure, I like sensorless everywhere. I know there’ve been some sandy spots where I was able to slow crawl my stuff out of situations where I probably would have dug myself in at the lowest speed on a sensorless start.

 

[Tyrus]

We’re safe!!!! Sale is over and I didn’t buy! Keeping eyes peeled for a 1650 combo, got the new body for Fireteam build painted this morning so it’ll be time to put stock 6S system back to work.

 

[fredw90]

Damn that was a good sale. Didn’t realize retail was actually 380 lol. 1260 may not be perfect but I think I’ll be content with it lol

 

[Tyrus]

Damn that was a good sale. Didn’t realize retail was actually 380 lol. 1260 may not be perfect but I think I’ll be content with it lol

I could have lived with it too, it’s a rock solid combo I bet. I’ll have to jump on the next deal!

 

[Dan B.]

They sound nice too!

Listen to that beautiful 1717 1650kv combo

That does sound great! And it looks like you hit at least 60mph! . (JK, nice passes.)

 

[Moirae]

That does sound great! And it looks like you hit at least 60mph! . (JK, nice passes.)

it had to be at least 70!!!!

 

[Tyrus]

NOOOO! Not as good a deal as the 1260 but it’s the right motor. I don’t think I can resist this one boys….

 

[Ron Burgandy]

I had no idea !!!!

Next to the XLX2
It’s Soooooo frikin cute !!!!

 

[Dan B.]

I had no idea !!!!

Next to the XLX2
It’s Soooooo frikin cute !!!!

View attachment 320924

IKR? That’s the MMX8s, right? They fit a whole lot better into SWB builds for sure. That’s what’s going into an upcoming 328mm speed build I’ll be doing soon.

 

[SrC]

I had the same issues with my Mamba X and sensored 1410 motor in one of my cars early on and unplugging sensor cable worked as well. What I found was that I’d gotten it wet where the sensor cable plugs into the esc and the sensor wires were shorting and making things act reallllly weird. The components are waterproof but I guess the connections on the esc are not and I had to seal with dielectric grease (and where it plugs into the motor for good measure) to keep that from happening every time I drove through a puddle. Never had it happen since. Apologies if you’ve already tried that, it could most definitely be a bad motor.

I say 99% of the time it is a bad Sensor lead, or even a bad Pin Out on the Motor or ESC side.
It is less common for the 3 Hall Effect PCB sensors to fail inside the motor. But is also a thing. Especially if you don't maintain and clean your motor often enough. Dirt can alter the Hall Effect sensor's signals to the ESC. Hence Undue Cogging.
Corrosion and dirt gets the best of these pin outs. Been there numerous times. Always have spare Sensor lead(s) on hand. It is just a thing with Sensored Setups.
And always check first by running in Sensorless mode, without any lead to determine that. The Very first thing to try.
The sensor lead itself is rather delicate and hard to find tears or damage. Look closely. Keep the Pin Outs and connectors clean as well. Use an electrical contact Spray only.
Water/mositure and Sensored setups don't work well together. Govern yourself accordingly.
Don't try and use any water proof Dielectric grease at the Pin Outs or connectors. This screws up the very low voltage signalling. Been there/done that.
Clean and dry is best. Good idea to use "shielded" sensor leads or Wire braid to cover them. Bare leads are so delicate.
HW's solution with the G2 ESC's, uses a different type of strong round Proprietary Sensor lead FWIW.


Edited.

 

[Ron Burgandy]

IKR? That’s the MMX8s, right? They fit a whole lot better into SWB builds for sure. That’s what’s going into an upcoming 328mm speed build I’ll be doing soon.

Yes sir MMXtrasmall 8s 1717 1260 motor
Not that I’m starting another build or anything……
Cause I definitely havnt finished the first build !!!
@King blitz would not approve..

 

[Tyrus]

I had no idea !!!!

Next to the XLX2
It’s Soooooo frikin cute !!!!

View attachment 320924

That is a CRAZY size difference! I got to watch an XLX2 burn up in person, which is also amazing (in a bad way.) Guy was bashing the 1721-2400 speed run motor in a Sledge after we warned him not to. Sure enough, filthy gray smoke started rolling and we were lucky enough to get the packs unplugged before it toasted the whole rig. 2/3 motor leads de-soldered themselves from the esc, as did a battery lead.

 

[SrC]

2400kv alone in a Sledge...NG.

 

[Dan B.]

Yes sir MMXtrasmall 8s 1717 1260 motor
Not that I’m starting another build or anything……
Cause I definitely havnt finished the first build !!!
@King blitz would not approve..

Send him an FC100 body and he’ll forgive you.

 

[Tyrus]

Suspicious X clearly visible through the window. I talked myself out of the 1260kv but then something else went on sale…