Soooo it’s safe to say that....

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I lost track of how many arms BB has been through. Yeah RPM's if its a priority for them right now.
I don't have a K8 yet. But watching very closely what the upgrade necessities will be.
M2C SWB chassis for sure. IMO. It should have been a SWB OC/Noto 8S rig to begin with.
Then arms whoever does them first. Bent shock shafts and rod ends. The cracking wheels seem to be a problem too. But very cold temps contribute much to the plastic issues? 1/5 big air Bashing seems to be new territory.
 
I've broken a total of 4 arms: two front lowers and two rears. Both fronts are on me. I ran it into my fire pit for one breakage and dropped it out of the sky onto the front wheel for the other. The rears (both the same side) were just from my normal bashing.
 
How about letting Arrma know about the Arms too. They should be revised IMO. The plastic composition and all.
In this case I don't feel we can exclusively rely on RPM. I wouldn't hold my breath, that's all.
It may be a while. Hope not.
 
Someone should make a proper email that we can all copy and paste to send them.
Maybe then they will get the hint... ?

I’m not very good at not being vulgar. ?

Even if they offered an upgraded set, I’d be fine with purchasing them.
 
Sometimes un published revisions are made without us even knowing. Sometimes QC is addressed at production during Mfr.
And we end up with better parts. Slop at the arms hinge pin holes should be addressed for instance. Maybe its a plastic molding issue?
And it is costly to revise the plastics composition mid production.
Arrma and HH should know the end users complaints with any new model. Users are the ultimate test bed. Right?
 
I sent them mail about this for a week ago or so. So i hope everyone else here that is interested sending them request.
This is the mail adress i got answer from
[email protected]

The answer was that they just got a k8s and they will test and look into it. Question would be if rpm arms make it stronger or if they just make another part to break.
 
Arms by themselves breaking is one thing. But usually there is more carnage than meets the eye. Like bent drive shafts/cvd's and pins shock rods and ends and all other closely related parts. That's the big concern with broken arms in general. Broken arms can create a big repair bill when you factor in all the related parts that can and will break during an Arm failure.
Against my better judgement, I am starting to feel that billet $7075$ alloy arms may be the best alternative material for 1/5. But, not counting RPM out of the picture just yet.
 
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Losi which is also under the HH umbrella. Had a similar issue recently with the Mini-T 2.0 and the front control arms. They were snapping at the pin constantly. Losi then quickly made a revised edition, now if you call HH they will send you the new revised set free of charge. Which are much stronger. I haven’t broken the new ones yet and I pound the piss out of it every night! ?
 
SrC said:
Arms by themselves breaking is one thing. But usually there is more carnage than meets the eye. Like bent drive shafts/cvd's and pins shock rods and ends and all other closely related parts. That's the big concern with broken arms in general. Broken arms can create a big repair bill when you factor in all the related parts that can and will break during an Arm failure.
Against my better judgement, I am starting to feel that billet $7075$ alloy arms may be the best alternative material for 1/5. But, not counting RPM out of the picture just yet.
Click to expand...
I'm on that boat as well, but alum arms alone will destroy bulkheads & break stock hinge pin holders. It would be seriously expensive, but alum bulkheads would be a must with alum arms . . . but the K8S fund is buffed up enough to buy a 2nd one so I'm rdy for all upgrades. The rolly polly plastic RPM uses will simply flex to hell & bend CVDs with just that, even the junk Arrma uses can flex enough to bend them if it's hot out. I'll take a page out of my first DBXL-e that I upgraded with all the alum stuff until it turned into a shelf queen & I bought another. It's by far the toughest big car I own, but every time I look at it, I want to put it under glass :LOL: I don't want to take the K8S to that lvl. The thing has several years worth of monthly upgrades & I don't even want to know how much I spent on it. I just want to be able to jump or wheelie the K8S w/o finding something busted on it afterwards. The last arm I broke had a biga$$ crack in it & I didn't even see it until I cleaned it up.
 
i have not purchased the 8s yet due to weather and the hours i work. waiting till spring, I was wondering if they had not cut out so much material to save weight i guess. would these arms be less likely to fail?
 
I wonder if someone is willing to fill the voids in a arms with an epoxy or a resin. Have we noted if there is a common area where they are prone to breaking?
 
Lovestricken said:
I wonder if someone is willing to fill the voids in a arms with an epoxy or a resin. Have we noted if there is a common area where they are prone to breaking?
Click to expand...
The two rears I broke snapped in the same area, close to the pin.
 
I would try adding some CF sheets where possible. I know other brands have this as an option to stiffen and strengthen their arms.
 
Mine snapped right at the pin, though it wasn't the fault of the arm but the sheer force of the impact. Killed the pin, the lower a-arm, the shock tower, part of the front bumper and the bulkhead while also bending the shock shaft :geek:

20200111_132241.jpg

20200111_132255.jpg
 
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