Kraton Steering Slop

[bicketybam]

I'm brand new to the Kraton. I have a lot of play in the steering. Part of it is the service saver which looks like it needs tightening (I'll Google that procedure). The other issue I see is that there is a lot of play between the pivot ball that is at the end of the suspension arm and the steering block. Is it supposed to be that way? Can I tighten that up? Thanks!

 

[Paultro84]

I'm brand new to the Kraton. I have a lot of play in the steering. Part of it is the service saver which looks like it needs tightening (I'll Google that procedure). The other issue I see is that there is a lot of play between the pivot ball that is at the end of the suspension arm and the steering block. Is it supposed to be that way? Can I tighten that up? Thanks!

A lot of times the metal steering rack that connects the two tie rods gets bent and causes a lot of slop. Also the caps for tightening the pillow balls can loosen up. I had to put plumbers tape on the threads of the metal caps to keep them from backing off. And my servo saver was constantly loosening up as well. It's easy to tighten it up. Theres a hole in the bottom of the chassis that you can stick a hex driver up in to and you can rotate the plastic nut. Don't go to tight or it won't give enough and will kill your servo.

 

[bicketybam]

I am on the stock Servo, so I don't care about killing it LOL. What do you suggest for an after-market servo?

 

[Paultro84]

I am on the stock Servo, so I don't care about killing it LOL. What do you suggest for an after-market servo?

If you have the cash, Savox. There's a couple threads on the forum for upgrades recommend for the Kraton.

 

[bicketybam]

A lot of times the metal steering rack that connects the two tie rods gets bent and causes a lot of slop. Also the caps for tightening the pillow balls can loosen up. I had to put plumbers tape on the threads of the metal caps to keep them from backing off. And my servo saver was constantly loosening up as well. It's easy to tighten it up. Theres a hole in the bottom of the chassis that you can stick a hex driver up in to and you can rotate the plastic nut. Don't go to tight or it won't give enough and will kill your servo.

It was the pillow balls. They caps had backed out a bit. At first I over tightened them and it wouldn't steer. I then backed each off until I could steer it. I can see those caps being am issue.

 

[bicketybam]

If you have the cash, Savox. There's a couple threads on the forum for upgrades recommend for the Kraton.

I read through the recommended upgrades and it seemed like a lot of the info was dated. I have a V3, so I'm not sure what still applies. Does the servo tray still need to be replaced?

 

[Dvarg]

without doing much research, i bought a 1230SG from savox. It's too tall for the servo tray. I went ahead and installed it with some longer M3 screws i found at home depot. the bottom of the servo is resting on the chasis, and just being held down by the plastic tabs at the moment. Ive ran it longer and harder than the stock servo like this, no issues yet. I plan to get the tall GKA servo mount for it though.

 

[-Dusty-]

I read through the recommended upgrades and it seemed like a lot of the info was dated. I have a V3, so I'm not sure what still applies. Does the servo tray still need to be replaced?

From what I hear its better in the V3 but its still plastic and does have some give. I got a voltage hobbies mount that Im gonna slap on there tomorrow

 

[Primarrma]

An upgraded servo tray will remove a lot of the flex in the servo mount, but whenever you remove flex it puts stress on something else. I see the servo tray as an improvement, but make sure your servo saver is functioning correctly. I run the voltage hobbies servo tray in my v3, as well as the upgraded steering rack. I now run a Savox servo as the Arrma one died pretty quickly.

 

[GUSI RC]

The 'pillow ball caps' from HR are a nice upgrade as well and not expensive. I have them since a few weeks. They are made of just 1 part instead of 2 stock (cap + nut), get screwed in much easier into the steering block and don't back off so easily because they have a rubber ring around them.

 

[Johnnyringo]

I am on the stock Servo, so I don't care about killing it LOL. What do you suggest for an after-market servo?

If you want to spend the money get the Savox 1230sg or the Savox sw1210sg.

 

[bicketybam]

If you want to spend the money get the Savox 1230sg or the Savox sw1210sg.

I actually went with the Savox 1256TG. Not waterproof, but it's pretty strong and fast enough. Direct fit too.

 

[richNH]

"It was the pillow balls. They caps had backed out a bit. At first I over tightened them and it wouldn't steer. I then backed each off until I could steer it. I can see those caps being am issue."


I have this problem too. I think a design issue. The easy fix is plumbers tape

 

[Mad Man Slice]

An upgraded servo tray will remove a lot of the flex in the servo mount, but whenever you remove flex it puts stress on something else. I see the servo tray as an improvement, but make sure your servo saver is functioning correctly. I run the voltage hobbies servo tray in my v3, as well as the upgraded steering rack. I now run a Savox servo as the Arrma one died pretty quickly. View attachment 20966

Hey guys, I also have the aluminum servo mount on both of my Arrma's. I also adjusted my steering rates so they don't bind ( buzz when you turn side to side). I'm sure you and everyone does this too. The only other thing I do is switch the wire layout coming out of the ESC to the front chassis brace. By looking at your pic, I would take the wires out of the chassis brace hook, then put the lower wire back in the hook first, then the upper one over top of it. It seems to pull the lower wire down so it wont bind when turning left. Hope this is understandable.... hahaha.
Not 100% sure this is effective. However, I still have the original servo's in both my Arrma's; had the Outcast over a year now.
Bash on fella's!!!!