Kraton Take out shaft cup

[Shockwaver]

Hello guys.
I have troubles taking out the input shaft cup from the main input gear. I need to do this in order to change the front diff box.

I took out the blue-loctited screw of the cup but I have problems with the cup itself... it looks like there would be some red loctite in it, is that so? What can I do??

 

[Timritchieblue]

Use a small screwdriver, pry it off. It should come off.

 

[Shockwaver]

Use a small screwdriver, pry it off. It should come off.

From under the cup? Will it be enough?? We'll see... meanwhile I'm warming up the oven...

It was! Perfect thank you!

 

[Rich Duperbash]

From under the cup? Will it be enough?? We'll see... meanwhile I'm warming up the oven...

It was! Perfect thank you!

I've had the same issue, but now I heat up the input shaft and grub hole area with soldering gun then place a punch from cup side and tap input out with small hammer until input gear falls into diff box. Has worked well, pretty easy with 2-3 taps as long as punch is lined up on inputs flat spot inside cup. Easier if you stand truck up so cup is facing you.

 

[Shockwaver]

Nice!
A soft levering luckily was enough this time.

BTW now I'm facing another problem and I don't even know if I'll be able to explain it...

I don't know if this is a normal behavior or if something went broken but... when I push from the side cup (the one coming out from the same side of the outer gear of the diff), the diff itself slightly moves inside the diff box and pushes against the gear of the main input shaft and the diff almost locks inside its box. I notice this only with the front and the box is brand new.

This is a bit of a problem because, as it is now, the upper suspension arm pulls the dogbone too much inside the cup resulting in a lock as I described before.

By now I'll try loosening the pivot ball a little for a longer reach of the arm and a shorter dive of the dogbone into the cup (actually I may even overtightened, thus shortening, it a bit too much when I fixed the steering block last time)

Later on I'll try building a new diff and I'll take the chance for shimming and 7k-ing it.

Advices on the matter are very welcomed

 

[ParkRacing]

Add a small washer behind the pillow ball to give it a little room

 

[Rich Duperbash]

Nice!
A soft levering luckily was enough this time.

BTW now I'm facing another problem and I don't even know if I'll be able to explain it...

I don't know if this is a normal behavior or if something went broken but... when I push from the side cup (the one coming out from the same side of the outer gear of the diff), the diff itself slightly moves inside the diff box and pushes against the gear of the main input shaft and the diff almost locks inside its box. I notice this only with the front and the box is brand new.

This is a bit of a problem because, as it is now, the upper suspension arm pulls the dogbone too much inside the cup resulting in a lock as I described before.

By now I'll try loosening the pivot ball a little for a longer reach of the arm and a shorter dive of the dogbone into the cup (actually I may even overtightened, thus shortening, it a bit too much when I fixed the steering block last time)

Later on I'll try building a new diff and I'll take the chance for shimming and 7k-ing it.

Advices on the matter are very welcomed

I double what ParkRacing suggested, may also need to shim diff externally on gear side bearing as discussed in Kraton mystery spacer thread.

 

[Shockwaver]

Right!
Lost 'em gotta order new ones.
However I just noticed one thing. The noise this hindrance of spin is producing is TOTALLY the same of the one I heard from the very first run I've ever done with her... so I guess it is physiological.
Can anyone of you confirm me that WITH UNLOADED shocks, the front drivetrain is not spinning as freely as the back one?

Also, the shimming as it is shown in Thomas' vid is punching even more the gear against the inner pinion hence not solving this "issue"...

Oh.. and guys... HAPPY NEW YEAR!!

 

[Rich Duperbash]

Right!
Lost 'em gotta order new ones.
However I just noticed one thing. The noise this hindrance of spin is producing is TOTALLY the same of the one I heard from the very first run I've ever done with her... so I guess it is physiological.
Can anyone of you confirm me that WITH UNLOADED shocks, the front drivetrain is not spinning as freely as the back one?

Also, the shimming as it is shown in Thomas' vid is punching even more the gear against the inner pinion hence not solving this "issue"...

Oh.. and guys... HAPPY NEW YEAR!!

Yes. All of my rigs are like that including my highly modified Backslash. However, Outcast is borderline tight/possibly barely binding in front when compared to freespinning Kraton. Plan to washer behind pillow balls, been busy. My son's Typhon I Truggified with Kraton hex's,axels, hubs, had become very tight at full droop. I simply put 2-4 small turns on his droop screws and binding was eliminated. I could feel it disappearing with each small turn, only lost a miniscule amount of front ride height. Just needed scant change in angle, actually steers better with nose a fraction lower.

 

[Shockwaver]

However, Outcast is borderline tight/possibly barely binding in front when compared to freespinning Kraton

Well this is quite odd... My Kraton's front has never been binding when hand-spin freely by one wheel...
[NOOB MODE ON] If by "binding" you mean "both of the wheels spinning same direction" [NOOB MODE OFF]

 

[Rich Duperbash]

Well this is quite odd... My Kraton's front has never been binding when hand-spin freely by one wheel...
[NOOB MODE ON] If by "binding" you mean "both of the wheels spinning same direction" [NOOB MODE OFF]

No I mean resistance felt when fully lifted turning single front wheel by hand. Kraton spins a tad easier then Outcast with same shimming, droop settings, bearings, and 50k diff fluids.

 

[Shockwaver]

Oh, ok!
Well I cannot make a difference since I don't have an Outcast, yet!
However unfortunately I can't recall if my front was easier to spin before the fixing session, but I would say no if I was to place a bet...

P.S.
First serious bashing session today, loose dirt, construction debris and farming ground... WHAT A BEAUTY!
Cannot wait for next WE to start to get into some air......

 

[Rich Duperbash]

Oh, ok!
Well I cannot make a difference since I don't have an Outcast, yet!
However unfortunately I can't recall if my front was easier to spin before the fixing session, but I would say no if I was to place a bet...

P.S.
First serious bashing session today, loose dirt, construction debris and farming ground... WHAT A BEAUTY!
Cannot wait for next WE to start to get into some air......

Nice.... Kraton is really at home in the air, I'm totally impressed with the platform, complete Beast. Enjoy getting launched!!!

 

[arrmaracing]

I've had the same issue, but now I heat up the input shaft and grub hole area with soldering gun then place a punch from cup side and tap input out with small hammer until input gear falls into diff box. Has worked well, pretty easy with 2-3 taps as long as punch is lined up on inputs flat spot inside cup. Easier if you stand truck up so cup is facing you.

I soldered the main input gear from the shaft cup side and the grub hole then i hammered but still doesn't want to come out. When you hammer it do you what exactly do you line up.

 

[Rich Duperbash]

I soldered the main input gear from the shaft cup side and the grub hole then i hammered but still doesn't want to come out. When you hammer it do you what exactly do you line up.

You have to use a punch and line it up with the input gear. Here's a complete diff as an example. Normally I do this with it still on the truck and diff cup removed from the case of course. Once the input cup grub screw has been removed and the thread locker has been heated/melted, just line up the punch with the input shaft and tap it towards the diff case. Should tap right out.

 

[arrmaracing]

You have to use a punch and line it up with the input gear. Here's a complete diff as an example. Normally I do this with it still on the truck and diff cup removed from the case of course. Once the input cup grub screw has been removed and the thread locker has been heated/melted, just line up the punch with the input shaft and tap it towards the diff case. Should tap right out. View attachment 17587 View attachment 17588 View attachment 17589

Thanks. I did remove it by prying it out from the shaft cup side. Ill try that next time tho.

 

[Rich Duperbash]

Thanks. I did remove it by prying it out from the shaft cup side. Ill try that next time tho.

You bet bud. I pry stuff off too, just have to be careful not to damage the bearing or casing.

 

[arrmaracing]

You bet bud. I pry stuff off too, just have to be careful not to damage the bearing or casing.

a bit of scratches on the chassy but i think it will be fine. Ill try your way next time tho.