Talion Talion EXB Ultra Track Basher

[21STalion]

Did u watch the hole thing? Sorry wrong vid her ya go

Beauty. Made another order with M2C. Got 3510, 3499 & 3595, can't wait!

Really appreciate the tips Jordan10R

 

[Jordan10R]

Beauty. Made another order with M2C. Got 3510, 3499 & 3595, can't wait!

Really appreciate the tips Jordan10R

No problem brother that what I am on here for to help when I can with the others And try learn when I can.

 

[21STalion]

Hobbywing is having a sale for $205 for that combo https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/products/max6-combos?variant=18438418104435
I have heard that the max6 is the best esc for a basher and the 4985 is a huge motor with a lot of power.
I personally run the blx185 (similar to a max8) and the 4092. This combo is on the lighter side of things but still has a huge amount of power. I am planning on putting a max6 or max8 in the talion when my blx185 breaks.

As for the build thread...I forgot. @WoodiE made a thread about how to update you build thread.

$205 seems like a good deal... I might have to order this after some more research. I honestly am left wanting for nothing with the stock EXB RTR electronics... The car is too fast already, the telemetry and being able to adjust endpoints from your cellphone has been a huge bonus. I'm more focusing on performance lately (reducing weight/tuning suspension), since acceleration is already ample.

I wonder if there is any way to keep the telemetry with a new motor and ESC? If I kept the telemetry and end point adjustments then I might even order this today lol

Amazing build thread! Thank you!

I can really appreciate you geeking-out with the weight of all individual components and upgrades. I am not doing this for RC bashers, but I was weighting all the parts when I was building my two BMX Race bikes (scratch builds). Weight was a very important purchase criteria for each components. I had spreadsheets of claimed VS actual weight for each parts and I knew where there was still room for improvement. That was a lot of fun.

Glad someone else is getting some use out of this, I am sure enjoying the project all by my lonesome but I was collecting so much data and felt that it was wasted just keeping it all to myself. Especially for Talion EXB specifically.

Thank you for commenting!

 

[Jordan10R]

$205 seems like a good deal... I might have to order this after some more research. I honestly am left wanting for nothing with the stock EXB RTR electronics... The car is too fast already, the telemetry and being able to adjust endpoints from your cellphone has been a huge bonus. I'm more focusing on performance (reducing weight).

I wonder if there is any way to keep the telemetry with a new motor and ESC? If I kept the telemetry and end point adjustments then I might even order this today lol


Glad someone else is getting some use out of this, I am sure enjoying the project all by my lonesome but I was collecting so much data and felt that it was wasted just keeping it all to myself. Especially for Talion EXB specifically.

Thank you for commenting!

I ordered the max 8 combo for 150 pretty good deal. Going put in the tekno mt410. But was thinking get another for the talion to lighten it up. Stock system crapped out so had put 160amp and 4092 1730kv so little heavier then use to be

 

[21STalion]

No problem brother that what I am on here for to help when I can with the others And try learn when I can.

Well I really appreciate this help especially because it has been my biggest problem with the build. The only part that really didn't fit well that I was going to keep installed anyway.

Thanks brother

 

[Jordan10R]

Well I really appreciate this help especially because it has been my biggest problem with the build. The only part that really didn't fit well that I was going to keep installed anyway.

Thanks brother

Right. Now it will be together proper and that's weird about the shock tower brace I'll have to take a look at that when I get min

M2C 3035 rear shock tower brace

Another flop! Oh no!

Review: Again, a beautiful quality piece, but it doesn't really fit the Talion. This one is to be continued because I'm going to need to figure it out. The Tower to Tower brace is in the way a bit and the part is WAY too proud of the rear shock tower and will need a LOT of beef cut off it, too much in fact. The meat that will be left won't have as much engagement as I would like. More micky mouse fun house...

Fitment: Poor!

Not Recommended for Talion EXB!

Help me out people, what did I do wrong?

View attachment 182031



Yesssss! that is exactly what I need! Thank you buddy!

Edit: The video I think is something else. And I can't seem to order 3510 on its own. I better call M2C tomorrow.

This what it says for the shock tower brace.

 

[highrisedrifter]

This is a fantastic thread and exactly what I was looking for! Already put this thread on my watch list.

Great build and thanks for laying out the upgrades in an easy-to-read format for us noobs (well, me, anwyay).

 

[K-BASH]

I also weight everything, most pay no attention to weight,just ,shiny,heavy mods everywhere.most also don't realize some much 400 extra grams can ruin the handling of some rides,.extra weight can cause more impact damage,.imo over-mass-modding can ruin an rc quik.

 

[21STalion]

Right. Now it will be together proper and that's weird about the shock tower brace I'll have to take a look at that when I get min

View attachment 182130
This what it says for the shock tower brace.

I did notice this, but even with modification, the fit will be very poor. Take a look at the pictures below. By the time you cut it down, it's a sliver only a few mm wide (barely wider than the screw itself), and there is a bevel on the bottom which doesn't help either.

Furthermore, if you install this brace I don't see how you will be able to attach the tower to tower brace. You won't have access to the screw...someone one Youtube said they did it and was going to send me pictures, but I'm still waiting.

I'm not afraid of modifications, but I want it to fit nicely after or its not worth it.

This is a fantastic thread and exactly what I was looking for! Already put this thread on my watch list.

Great build and thanks for laying out the upgrades in an easy-to-read format for us noobs (well, me, anwyay).

Thanks for watching, I have a lot of updates left to upload so stay tuned.

I also weight everything, most pay no attention to weight,just ,shiny,heavy mods everywhere.most also don't realize some much 400 extra grams can ruin the handling of some rides,.extra weight can cause more impact damage,.imo over-mass-modding can ruin an rc quik.

I totally agree. These batteries are stupid heavy already, the car really doesn't have much left over for upgrades!

 

[Jordan10R]

I did notice this, but even with modification, the fit will be very poor. Take a look at the pictures below. By the time you cut it down, it's a sliver only a few mm wide (barely wider than the screw itself), and there is a bevel on the bottom which doesn't help either.

Furthermore, if you install this brace I don't see how you will be able to attach the tower to tower brace. You won't have access to the screw...someone one Youtube said they did it and was going to send me pictures, but I'm still waiting.

I'm not afraid of modifications, but I want it to fit nicely after or its not worth it.

View attachment 182153

View attachment 182154

View attachment 182155

View attachment 182156

View attachment 182157


Thanks for watching, I have a lot of updates left to upload so stay tuned.


I totally agree. These batteries are stupid heavy already, the car really doesn't have much left over for upgrades!

I agree not alot meat left. But I think it will be good enough . And I had that problem with the T2T brace on my kraton I dremaled a little out of that plastic and it worked still tight tho. But I don't run T2T anymore just on talion. But I don't run the shock tower brace on it . Have CF towers on her. And like I said I think will hold up just fine if you cut it.

 

[highrisedrifter]

As someone who is primarily getting the Talion for racing (otherwise i'd jump on the Kraton roller discount on HH right now), honestly, this thread is invaluable to me.

I wish they did a Talion roller.

 

[21STalion]

I agree not alot meat left. But I think it will be good enough . And I had that problem with the T2T brace on my kraton I dremaled a little out of that plastic and it worked still tight tho. But I don't run T2T anymore just on talion. But I don't run the shock tower brace on it . Have CF towers on her. And like I said I think will hold up just fine if you cut it.

Yeah, lots of pondering about the T2T brace. Last few days I've been running with no T2T, no motor heatsink, and no center diff carry handle and I am enjoying the 181 gr weight savings. I may leave it like this. This is how I get down to my 11.2lbs weight. The tower brace especially, so much weight so high up, the car is really might be more stable without it on. My latest suspension adjustments are starting to feel so good.

I will cut down the M2C tower brace this weekend and give it a shot. I think the bevel on the bottom ruins it. I'll get some pictures of course.

Cheers,

As someone who is primarily getting the Talion for racing (otherwise i'd jump on the Kraton roller discount on HH right now), honestly, this thread is invaluable to me.

I wish they did a Talion roller.

If I knew 4 months ago what I know now I would build a Talion from scratch and would have probably easily saved a grand - oh well. Learn from my experience.

Funny part is I almost have enough spare parts now to build another car... I might do that

Thanks for posting - lots more updates coming.

 

[highrisedrifter]

In hindsight, if there were like one or two upgrades that made a major difference out of the box that you'd do first, what would they be? This is in a racing context, rather than pure bashing (and I was beginning to think I was the only person considering racing a Talion here).

When I get the RTR (saving money and trying not to annoy the wife with another big purchase, as I just spent a small fortune on some toys). i'd like to do a couple of upgrades out of the box to enhance the racing potential of it.

I'm guessing replacing the Katar tyres with something more akin to the holeshots would be a good idea. but I liked your comment in one of your posts above about reducing/eliminating bounce upon landing too.

 

[21STalion]

In hindsight, if there were like one or two upgrades that made a major difference out of the box that you'd do first, what would they be? This is in a racing context, rather than pure bashing (and I was beginning to think I was the only person considering racing a Talion here).

When I get the RTR (saving money and trying not to annoy the wife with another big purchase, as I just spent a small fortune on some toys). i'd like to do a couple of upgrades out of the box to enhance the racing potential of it.

I'm guessing replacing the Katar tyres with something more akin to the holeshots would be a good idea. but I liked your comment in one of your posts above about reducing/eliminating bounce upon landing too.

I say the two most important upgrades (to purchase) are the tires & servo. When you turn the wheel the car needs to turn NOW, not in a few seconds. Both the servo and tires accomplish this. I might even say the servo is more important, because if it does not turn the wheels quickly it doesn't matter if you are gripping or not.

Otherwise the car is actually really nice stock - most upgrades I do are for durability.

I don't think the shocks are a required upgrade, I love them, but its more for bashing and jumping huge. The stock stuff is already so adjustable that you can easily just race by tuning the stock stuff more.

When I first drove the car I couldn't believe how well it drove out of the box but I guess that happens if you don't buy a new RC for 15 years.

Wish you luck, and I'll share my setup as it evolves. Was just practicing some jumping and turning and I already made some improvements - mostly just mounting locations and camber clip adjustments you can do on the stock stuff too.

Cheers,

 

[21STalion]

Here are some test jumps from this afternoon in the backyard.


Working on 'killing the bounce', running 1,000cst here front and back. Rear is still bouncing too much. I might try 2,000cst in the back soon.

 

[21STalion]

M2C 3065 ackerman bar /steering rack Upgrade

After only 10-12 batteries the stock EXB ackerman bar was bent already. It's soft aluminum and you can just bent it straight again, but I think it's worth the upgrade. The M2C piece is noticeably stronger to the touch. It's also much thicker in the middle than the stock arm. The EXB arm bend on the thin parts near one of the bigger holes.

Fitment: Perfect replacement fit. Plug and play. It can make things a bit tight during front suspension block removal and installation, but not an issue at all.

Highly recommended upgrade

Weights:
M2C: 6.6 gr
EXB: 6.3 gr

Weight difference: 0.3 gr

Comparison:

The bend in the EXB arm after only 12 batteries:

 

[21STalion]

HB HBS204407 D817T 5x95 Titanium Turnbuckle Upgrade

Shout out to East Tactics for this upgrade, it's probably one of the few upgrades on here that are a true upgrade where both strength and performance are increased and all you lose is $$$. Any racer would love this one. My stock EXB turnbuckle snapped on the wheel end right where the threads start, just like they all do. My LHS only had the V4 turnbuckles in stock so I used those while the snail mail sent the HB HBS204407 D817T 5x95 Titanium Turnbuckles. This was an AMAZAING upgrade, and I would hands down do those for any race car or basher.

The stock link is 4mm thick. The V4 and earlier seem to be a black metal and the EXB is a stainless steel. The EXB is a bit stronger and a bit heavier, but still snaps easily. Where the magic comes in is the Titanium piece is 5mm thick, which is a HUGE amount stronger than 4mm, and it's lighter than even the remaining bit of the broken EXB arm.

Fitment: I would drill the plastic ball cup ends slightly, very slightly, before screwing in the larger turnbuckles, I didn't do it to one of the ends and I don't like how much it stretched the plastic. East Tactics seems to have drilled too much material and he says his are too loose. I'm waiting on my RPM Traxxas long ends and I will try again.


Highly Recommended Upgrade - Must for Racers!

Part Weights:
V4 Black Metal 4mm Turnbuckle Assembly: 12.3 gr
EXB S. Steel 4mm Turnbuckle Assembly: 13.2 gr
HB Titanium 5mm Turnbuckle: 11 gr

Weight difference 4MM EXB upgrading to 5MM Titanium: (-4.4gr)!

Comparison:

Turnbuckle Comparison:

V4 4mm

EXB 4mm

Broken EXB:

Ti 5mm

4mm V4 Assembly:

4mm EXB Assembly:

5MM Titanium Assembly:

 

[21STalion]

M2C 4140 Hardened steel dogbones and CVD shafts upgrade:

Part#:
M2C 310458 6s front CVD outdrive driveshaft
M2C 310459 6s dogbone rear outdrive driveshaft
M2C 310472 6s dogbone front center driveshaft
M2C 310460 6s dogbone rear center driveshaft

Review: Now these were a bit costly, both in weight and $$$. There is no doubt the material is superior, and just to be sure, the dogbones get thicker in the middle and thinner on the ends - they are at least 1mm thicker than stock EXB dogbones in the middle. Never seen parts like that, but I am very pleased. And the center dogbones were also very close to stock width (to clear the bracing I guess) but still beefier. Still a fair bit of wobble at speed, but don't think I will be breaking these any time soon. If I were to do it again, I would probably look into titanium dogbones/cvds, probably only a few dollars more and far superior and without the weight penalty.

Fitment: Perfect. There is some minor interferences like when the shock lower pin set screw is loose it can now touch the wider dogbones, but it's fine when everything is tightened up, so no problems here.

Basher recommended - racers beware of weight, may be better options out there.

Parts Weights:

EXB Front Center Dogbone: 38.3 gr
M2C Front Center Dogbone: 40.7 gr

EXB Rear Center Dogbone: 34.7 gr
M2C Rear Center Dogbone: 36.6 gr

EXB CVD: 25.3 gr
M2C CVD: 37.8 gr

EXB Left & Right Dogbones: 52.9 gr
M2C Left & Right Dogbones: 76.8 gr

Total weight increase: 57.5 gr (ouch!)

EXB Front Dogbone:

M2C Front Dogbone:

EXB Rear Dogbone:

M2C Rear Dogbone:

EXB CVD

M2C CVD

EXB Left & Right Dogbones:

M2C Left and Right Dogbones:

 

[21STalion]

HR Differential Housing and Cover Upgrade

Review: Really like these pieces. Front and back are identical, you just buy two of them. Don't think they are 7075 they might be 6065 - still stronger than the composite plastic pieces and come with an oversized bearing. I somewhat regret purchasing the diff cover pieces because I don't think it really adds much strength in a way that the housing is going to break and it adds quite a bit more weight. I am really glad I upgraded these overall. The whole car sounds and feels different as well. You can sense the less play in the drivetrain. Sounds ping a little tighter. Car rolls a little smoother. It really made a bunch of small differences it had no business making.

Fitment: Excellent. However, many of the screws should be shorter, and some should be longer (and lock nuts used on the far sides). Be very cognizant when installing the screws. Lastly, some of the screws don't fit unless you loosely assemble everything first before tightening them down. Yay fun!

Highly Recommended Upgrade. Racers maybe don't buy the diff covers, they add quite a bit more weight for only a bit more strength. The diff case itself is easily worth the weight.


Part#:
(x2) HR HRAAON12E01 rear differential housing
(x2) HR HRAAON12C01 Aluminum Gearbox Case
Front and back are identical, buy two each of the same

Part Weights:

EXB Diff Housing: 46.9 gr
HR Diff Housing: 49.3 gr

EXB Diff Cover: 12.5 gr
HR Diff Cover: 19.5 gr

Weight increase 18.8 gr and 14 gr of that is diff cover (why?)
Racers find titanium diff covers?


Comparison:

Extra Photos:

 

[21STalion]

M2C Front & Rear Chassis Brace Upgrade

Part#:
M2C 3042 front chassis brace
M2C 3043 rear chassis brace

Review: Another winner from M2C. Clearly stronger and stiffer. Beautiful pieces too. I like using longer screws and threadlock the base and nylock nut the exposed threads. These braces are not going anywhere now. Stock they were coming loose every run even with threadllock. I am fairly confident in dropping the T2T brace with these two and the 4mm chassis upgrade. Decisions decisions. The combination of the beefier center dogbones and the M2C chassis braces, everything fits, but its even tighter. Center diff maintenance slowly getting slightly more difficult. Noticing a trend here...

Fitment: Perfect. There is the right notches for the chassis and everything lines up right. I had to change my method for servicing the front suspension block. I now leave the front chassis brace attached to the suspension and disconnect it from the center of the chassis so that I can leave the lockwasher nut below in the front block. See pictures. Let me know if you are having troubles (you'll know) and I'll walk you through it.


Highly Recommended all bashers - Racers consider only using the front brace as it saves weight, the rear brace adds weight.

Part Weights:
EXB front brace: 35.8 gr
M2C front brace: 30.9 gr

EXB rear brace: 36.7 gr
M2C rear brace: 46.3 gr

Weight increase: 4.7gr
if you want to save weight install M2C front and EXB rear

Front Braces:

Rear Braces:

Nylock Nut detail: