Limitless The BlackCat builds his first 'true' speed run car

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Panther6834

Active Member
Messages
142
Reaction score
217
Location
Las Vegas
Arrma RC's
  1. Limitless
Disclaimer:
Technically, this isn't my first speed run car...but, it IS what I'm considering to be my first "true" speed run car. The first iteration of a speedrun car was built on a Traxxas 4Tec 3.0 Corvette, and (specifically) retains the Corvette body. The 'purpose' of this build was/is to try and get the stock 4Tec 3.0 chassis, with original body, to exceed 100mph (obviously, without crashing...100+mph, while the body is inverted, mid-air, doesn't count). Thus is the reason I'm considering the Limitless V2 to be my first "true" speed run car.

Ok...enough of that...on with the show..........

I liked the Limitless when it was initially released, but have kind of been "on the fence" since then. I had been wanting to build a speed run car, but had absolutely no knowledge, or understanding, of what would be involved. So, I bided my time, watched videos, and read up on other people's builds. About the time the 4Tec 3.0 was released, simultaneously, I decided that this would be a perfect "test run" vehicle for a future 'true' speed run car, while my buddy Richie (aka Driftomaniacs on YouTube) came up with the idea of seeing if this platform could break 100mph. Unfortunately, he & his family moved not to long after we started the project (and, by "started", I mean, I had only gotten a few of the parts from him), so I, alone, have worked on it ever since.

Moving forward to approx 2.5 weeks ago, I decided it was finally time to pick up a Limitless (now V2) chassis. Thanks to a combination of my LHSs Labor Day sale, and my accrued LHS rewards points, I picked one up for less than $300 (including sales tax). Whether I'm building an off-road/on-road race vehicle, crawler, Tamiya kit, or anything else I'm going to include upgrade parts in while doing the initial build, the first thing I almost always do is create as complete a list as possible of all potential upgrade parts. This doesn't mean I will be purchasing/installing all of these parts (sometimes, the list contains multiples of the same part, from different aftermarket manufacturers)...it's just a list, with URLs, of everything available that I am 'of interest' in. Step 2 of the list process is working through the list, narrowing down my choices, and deleting items no longer being considered. Eventually, I end up with a list of parts that WILL be purchased/installed. The third, and final, step of this process is to break the list into 'phases' (typically 2-4, with 3-4 being my most common), with anything being a part of "Phase 1" needing to be purchased before starting the build.

Truth be told, I haven't actually started the Lim V2 build. Most people (myself, included), whether building a speed run car, a crawler, or anything in-between, tend to build up their chassis first, then paint the body. Unfortunately, due to recovering from knee surgery a little over a month ago, followed by work being a little slower-than-usual the past few weeks, my bank account would seriously scream at me if I were to start buying the electronics, and other upgrade parts, for at least another 2-6 weeks. So, guess I'll be doing this build 'differently'.

Since I can't start purchasing anything for the build, I decided to paint the body first...so, consider this a 'teaser' of what's to come. Unfortunately, that's where I've run into my first 'problem'. Honestly, it's not so much a 'problem', as it is a 'screw-up' on my part. In deciding how to paint the body, I decided to attempt my first-ever 6-color rattle-can paint job (as I will be moving soon, my airbrush, compressor, and airbrush paints are all boxed up). In deciding on the colors to be used, I couldn't make up my mind between two choices, thus, it has turned into a 7-color. The 'problem' is that, in my excitement, I rushed the job more than I should have, forgot to recheck/reapply painters tape, and ended up with...uh...'mistakes'. No worries...it's more as if I was looking for "perfection" in the paint job. For those understanding the phrase, "Good enough for government work", know that this is MUCH better than "government work"...lol

As of right now, the main body is approx 25% finished, and only the nose is complete...well, 'maybe' complete (I'll get to that in a sec). Below is the completed (?) nose piece...let your imaginations run wild, and see if you can guess what direction the rest of the body is going in. As for the 'maybe' part, this is where I'm interested in some "input" from others. I like "glossy" bodies just as much as everyone else...but, I also like bodies with a "matte" finish. Just because this is a speed run car, that doesn't mean the body 'needs' to be "glossy". So...based on just what you see here (consider this a voting opportunity), what is the thought of others - glossy or matte?

That's all I have for now. Next update will probably be nothing more than the completed paint job...but, then again, one never knows.

20220924_093429.jpg
 
Disclaimer:
Technically, this isn't my first speed run car...but, it IS what I'm considering to be my first "true" speed run car. The first iteration of a speedrun car was built on a Traxxas 4Tec 3.0 Corvette, and (specifically) retains the Corvette body. The 'purpose' of this build was/is to try and get the stock 4Tec 3.0 chassis, with original body, to exceed 100mph (obviously, without crashing...100+mph, while the body is inverted, mid-air, doesn't count). Thus is the reason I'm considering the Limitless V2 to be my first "true" speed run car.

Ok...enough of that...on with the show..........

I liked the Limitless when it was initially released, but have kind of been "on the fence" since then. I had been wanting to build a speed run car, but had absolutely no knowledge, or understanding, of what would be involved. So, I bided my time, watched videos, and read up on other people's builds. About the time the 4Tec 3.0 was released, simultaneously, I decided that this would be a perfect "test run" vehicle for a future 'true' speed run car, while my buddy Richie (aka Driftomaniacs on YouTube) came up with the idea of seeing if this platform could break 100mph. Unfortunately, he & his family moved not to long after we started the project (and, by "started", I mean, I had only gotten a few of the parts from him), so I, alone, have worked on it ever since.

Moving forward to approx 2.5 weeks ago, I decided it was finally time to pick up a Limitless (now V2) chassis. Thanks to a combination of my LHSs Labor Day sale, and my accrued LHS rewards points, I picked one up for less than $300 (including sales tax). Whether I'm building an off-road/on-road race vehicle, crawler, Tamiya kit, or anything else I'm going to include upgrade parts in while doing the initial build, the first thing I almost always do is create as complete a list as possible of all potential upgrade parts. This doesn't mean I will be purchasing/installing all of these parts (sometimes, the list contains multiples of the same part, from different aftermarket manufacturers)...it's just a list, with URLs, of everything available that I am 'of interest' in. Step 2 of the list process is working through the list, narrowing down my choices, and deleting items no longer being considered. Eventually, I end up with a list of parts that WILL be purchased/installed. The third, and final, step of this process is to break the list into 'phases' (typically 2-4, with 3-4 being my most common), with anything being a part of "Phase 1" needing to be purchased before starting the build.

Truth be told, I haven't actually started the Lim V2 build. Most people (myself, included), whether building a speed run car, a crawler, or anything in-between, tend to build up their chassis first, then paint the body. Unfortunately, due to recovering from knee surgery a little over a month ago, followed by work being a little slower-than-usual the past few weeks, my bank account would seriously scream at me if I were to start buying the electronics, and other upgrade parts, for at least another 2-6 weeks. So, guess I'll be doing this build 'differently'.

Since I can't start purchasing anything for the build, I decided to paint the body first...so, consider this a 'teaser' of what's to come. Unfortunately, that's where I've run into my first 'problem'. Honestly, it's not so much a 'problem', as it is a 'screw-up' on my part. In deciding how to paint the body, I decided to attempt my first-ever 6-color rattle-can paint job (as I will be moving soon, my airbrush, compressor, and airbrush paints are all boxed up). In deciding on the colors to be used, I couldn't make up my mind between two choices, thus, it has turned into a 7-color. The 'problem' is that, in my excitement, I rushed the job more than I should have, forgot to recheck/reapply painters tape, and ended up with...uh...'mistakes'. No worries...it's more as if I was looking for "perfection" in the paint job. For those understanding the phrase, "Good enough for government work", know that this is MUCH better than "government work"...lol

As of right now, the main body is approx 25% finished, and only the nose is complete...well, 'maybe' complete (I'll get to that in a sec). Below is the completed (?) nose piece...let your imaginations run wild, and see if you can guess what direction the rest of the body is going in. As for the 'maybe' part, this is where I'm interested in some "input" from others. I like "glossy" bodies just as much as everyone else...but, I also like bodies with a "matte" finish. Just because this is a speed run car, that doesn't mean the body 'needs' to be "glossy". So...based on just what you see here (consider this a voting opportunity), what is the thought of others - glossy or matte?

That's all I have for now. Next update will probably be nothing more than the completed paint job...but, then again, one never knows.

View attachment 245624
Yeah, prep is everything when it comes to painting. If you want to make it a bit easier on yourself, consider picking up a bottle of Bittydesign's Liquid Mask. Properly applied you get crisp, clean lines every time and it takes a lot of the uncertainty of masking tape out of the equation. Highly recommendable investment imho.
1664043672311.png


I'm getting a bit of the VW Polo Harlequin vibe here :) Lookin' good so far (y)
1664043623318.png


FWIW, I'm a big fan of matte finishes myself. I did my Bittydesign Seven65 with a glossy roof, matte body and tinted windows.
765 front side view.jpg
765 rear top side view.jpg
 
Last edited:
Yeah, prep is everything when it comes to painting. If you want to make it a bit easier on yourself, consider picking up a bottle of Bittydesign's Liquid Mask. Properly applied you get crisp, clean lines every time and it takes a lot of the uncertainty of masking tape out of the equation. Highly recommendable investment imho.


I'm getting a bit of the VW Polo Harlequin vibe here :) Lookin' good so far (y)


FWIW, I'm a big fan of matte finishes myself. I did my Bittydesign Seven65 with a glossy roof, matte body and tinted windows.
I have, and (frequently) use liquid frisket (started airbrushing over 30yrs ago)...but, like the rest of my airbrush equipment, it's boxed up. So, had to rely onmy 'backup', Frog Tape, which usually does extremely well...as long as one remembers to recheck/reapply when needed. It's my own fault I forgot. As for the Seven65, nice glossy-matte combo, I thought about that for the Lim body, but I couldn't determine any 'appropriate' transition location for the section behind the driver.

As for your "Harlequin" guess, incorrect...but...you ARE, most definitely, on the right track. Interestingly, I did consider that possibility/idea...and, if I had gone that route, the vehicle's name would have been "Harley Quinn".

wallpix1579538078-PSX_20200120_220426.jpg
 
I have, and (frequently) use liquid frisket (started airbrushing over 30yrs ago)...but, like the rest of my airbrush equipment, it's boxed up. So, had to rely onmy 'backup', Frog Tape, which usually does extremely well...as long as one remembers to recheck/reapply when needed. It's my own fault I forgot. As for the Seven65, nice glossy-matte combo, I thought about that for the Lim body, but I couldn't determine any 'appropriate' transition location for the section behind the driver.

As for your "Harlequin" guess, incorrect...but...you ARE, most definitely, on the right track. Interestingly, I did consider that possibility/idea...and, if I had gone that route, the vehicle's name would have been "Harley Quinn".

View attachment 245649
If it's of any help, here's a great paintjob on a Limitless body by @Infraction666 which might give you some ideas on where to delineate between gloss and matte behind the driver, should you decide to go that route. Am I trying to nudge you towards a gloss/matte finish? Maybe... :)
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/arrma-limitless-v2-custom-paint.55905/#post-812220
 
If it's of any help, here's a great paintjob on a Limitless body by @Infraction666 which might give you some ideas on where to delineate between gloss and matte behind the driver, should you decide to go that route. Am I trying to nudge you towards a gloss/matte finish? Maybe... :)
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/arrma-limitless-v2-custom-paint.55905/#post-812220
There is no matte finish on my Limitless Body, it's crystal clear from factory

But my small front vinge and rear wing is matte, also factory ☺️
 
There is no matte finish on my Limitless Body, it's crystal clear from factory

But my small front vinge and rear wing is matte, also factory ☺️
I know. I was just referring to the lines you chose where to separate the roof color from the body color. Not that it was matte because it's obviously not :)
 
Yeah, prep is everything when it comes to painting. If you want to make it a bit easier on yourself, consider picking up a bottle of Bittydesign's Liquid Mask. Properly applied you get crisp, clean lines every time and it takes a lot of the uncertainty of masking tape out of the equation. Highly recommendable investment imho.
View attachment 245642

I'm getting a bit of the VW Polo Harlequin vibe here :) Lookin' good so far (y)
View attachment 245641

FWIW, I'm a big fan of matte finishes myself. I did my Bittydesign Seven65 with a glossy roof, matte body and tinted windows.
View attachment 245643View attachment 245644
This is the perfect paintjob for this body @Diem Turner nicely done man!

Stealing yer roof 'delineation' lines tae, lower half in dugs lipstick tho! 😁

Braw clean lines on yer infraction tae @Infraction666 !
 
This is the perfect paintjob for this body @Diem Turner nicely done man!

Stealing yer roof 'delineation' lines tae, lower half in dugs lipstick tho! 😁

Braw clean lines on yer infraction tae @Infraction666 !
Thanks brother, I appreciate the kind words :)

Can't wait to see yours!! (y)
 
If it's of any help, here's a great paintjob on a Limitless body by @Infraction666 which might give you some ideas on where to delineate between gloss and matte behind the driver, should you decide to go that route. Am I trying to nudge you towards a gloss/matte finish? Maybe... :)
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/arrma-limitless-v2-custom-paint.55905/#post-812220
Yeah, I saw his...tho, as he, himself, said, there's no matte (which you also acknowledged). As for the 'nudging' me towards a glossy/matte combo, don't think I realy need the 'nudging' (obviously, I like the idea)...but, it's great to see others also liking the idea. I've done a glossy/matte combo on a few other vehicles...most notably the two "MSM Edition" bodies I did for my Spec Slash, the interior I did for the C3 crawler I took to last year's Scale nationals, and, most recently, on a Tamiya TD4 Super Avante. The way I see it, one of the great benefits of a matte finish is that it helps to hide damage (when the car flips). On the down-side, I would think that the texture could 'rob' a few mph off the top speed (ie. the texture creates a miminal amount of drag).
 
Yeah, I saw his...tho, as he, himself, said, there's no matte (which you also acknowledged). As for the 'nudging' me towards a glossy/matte combo, don't think I realy need the 'nudging' (obviously, I like the idea)...but, it's great to see others also liking the idea. I've done a glossy/matte combo on a few other vehicles...most notably the two "MSM Edition" bodies I did for my Spec Slash, the interior I did for the C3 crawler I took to last year's Scale nationals, and, most recently, on a Tamiya TD4 Super Avante. The way I see it, one of the great benefits of a matte finish is that it helps to hide damage (when the car flips). On the down-side, I would think that the texture could 'rob' a few mph off the top speed (ie. the texture creates a miminal amount of drag).
While I can't validate the claim, I honestly doubt that a matte finish would rob you of even a single mph (though I'm open to being proven wrong, difficult as it may be to eliminate all variables aside from paint texture). I know it's not the same thing, but it's been proven with textured shark skin and replicate skins applied to planes will use 15% less fuel as they counteract odd airflow eddies that are created by perfectly smooth surfaces. Like said, I know this isn't a 1:1 comparison, but texture need not necessarily create drag is my point.

But all that aside, I look forward to seeing what you come up with :)
 
While I can't validate the claim, I honestly doubt that a matte finish would rob you of even a single mph (though I'm open to being proven wrong, difficult as it may be to eliminate all variables aside from paint texture). I know it's not the same thing, but it's been proven with textured shark skin and replicate skins applied to planes will use 15% less fuel as they counteract odd airflow eddies that are created by perfectly smooth surfaces. Like said, I know this isn't a 1:1 comparison, but texture need not necessarily create drag is my point.

But all that aside, I look forward to seeing what you come up with :)
Interesting points...and, honestly, valid ones. One of my better 'attributes' is being able to see both sides of most situations. Additionally, many years ago, while in college, before switching my major to photography, my major ear ichthyology...specializing in sharks...so, I know (at least in-part) what you're referring to.

Nature provided sharks (and other animals) with particular 'patterns' to their skins, providing a natural "streamlining". Man has 'created' similar results via somewhat similar means...for example, diffusers & fins on vehicles directing the flow of air, allowing faster speeds to be achieved. At the same time, "texture" had also been proven to slow things down. A perfect example would be human hair (interestingly, also provided by nature). Competitive swimmers (not wanting to wear a Lycra full-body suit) completely shave their body (tho, many wear a cap, not wanting to shave their head), which has been proven to increase their speed, because the hair causes "resistance".

As we can see, "texture", depending on the 'pattern', or lack thereof, has the ability to help increase speed and/or efficiency, as well as decrease it. As for a matte finish, it could easily go either way. The question is, "which"? And, I think I'm not the only person who'd be interested in knowing.

I'm thinking, the only way to see *if* a matte texture has any effect...and, if it does, *what* that effect might be...would be to have two identical bodies - one glossy, one matte - and make several runs, each with fresh/fully-charged LiPos, allowing sufficient cooling between runs, on separate days and/or morning & afternoon. The first day (or morning), start with body #1, then #2. On the second day (or afternoon), start with body #2, then #1. This way, with each #1/#2 series of runs, conditions would be as close as possible. I have no problem doing it, although it'll probably be a few months before mine is completely ready. Besides, or might be good to see how completely different set-ups and/or bodies are 'affected'. Are others interested in testing this out?
 
Interesting points...and, honestly, valid ones. One of my better 'attributes' is being able to see both sides of most situations. Additionally, many years ago, while in college, before switching my major to photography, my major ear ichthyology...specializing in sharks...so, I know (at least in-part) what you're referring to.

Nature provided sharks (and other animals) with particular 'patterns' to their skins, providing a natural "streamlining". Man has 'created' similar results via somewhat similar means...for example, diffusers & fins on vehicles directing the flow of air, allowing faster speeds to be achieved. At the same time, "texture" had also been proven to slow things down. A perfect example would be human hair (interestingly, also provided by nature). Competitive swimmers (not wanting to wear a Lycra full-body suit) completely shave their body (tho, many wear a cap, not wanting to shave their head), which has been proven to increase their speed, because the hair causes "resistance".

As we can see, "texture", depending on the 'pattern', or lack thereof, has the ability to help increase speed and/or efficiency, as well as decrease it. As for a matte finish, it could easily go either way. The question is, "which"? And, I think I'm not the only person who'd be interested in knowing.

I'm thinking, the only way to see *if* a matte texture has any effect...and, if it does, *what* that effect might be...would be to have two identical bodies - one glossy, one matte - and make several runs, each with fresh/fully-charged LiPos, allowing sufficient cooling between runs, on separate days and/or morning & afternoon. The first day (or morning), start with body #1, then #2. On the second day (or afternoon), start with body #2, then #1. This way, with each #1/#2 series of runs, conditions would be as close as possible. I have no problem doing it, although it'll probably be a few months before mine is completely ready. Besides, or might be good to see how completely different set-ups and/or bodies are 'affected'. Are others interested in testing this out?
Totally agree on all fronts here. The only point of contention I think I'd have is about the hairs on swimmers. I could be wrong, but to me hair is a bit more than just surface texture as they extend well beyond the plane they're embedded in. I realize that they lay (mostly) flat when wet, but this will also vary wildly depending on "density of your underbrush". I remember many years ago they began making full body swim suits with the texture you find on shark skin, but they were quickly banned due to the competitive edge they provided. But you are correct of course. It all depends on the pattern and its effects on Eddies caused by surfaces moving through a liquid.

While I fully support the idea of testing the hypothesis, the realities of speed running provide several problems that I'm not sure it's possible to overcome to get repeatable results that validate it one way or the other. While consistency is the hallmark of excellence, even Raz says you can run the exact same car, on the exact same gearing, with the exact same setup, at the same time of day at the same temperature, etc. and get a breadth of different resulting top speeds. How would we account for these discrepancies or try to eliminate all other variables aside from the body? One variable that would necessarily need to be eliminated (and fortunately can be) is throttle input as the human finger is far too imprecise to make two equal throttle pulls. Products like the Noble NB4 and Perfect Pass can remove this variable and provide consistent throttle input at least. But, to my mind, there's too much other stuff going on that can affect the outcome. I think unless you're able to get consistent, back to back to back runs, where one body runs 1-2mph faster or slower than the other every time it would be impossible to say what the cause of the discrepancies is. Unless of course you're seeing 5mph differences or something like that, I just don't expect that to be what we see. I could be totally wrong of course. I think it would be utterly fascinating to see if any advantage could be proven beyond a reasonable doubt comparing glossy and matte finished bodies and I'd fully support any attempt in doing so.

No hurry, whenever you're ready. :)
 
Totally agree on all fronts here. The only point of contention I think I'd have is about the hairs on swimmers. I could be wrong, but to me hair is a bit more than just surface texture as they extend well beyond the plane they're embedded in. I realize that they lay (mostly) flat when wet, but this will also vary wildly depending on "density of your underbrush". I remember many years ago they began making full body swim suits with the texture you find on shark skin, but they were quickly banned due to the competitive edge they provided. But you are correct of course. It all depends on the pattern and its effects on Eddies caused by surfaces moving through a liquid.

While I fully support the idea of testing the hypothesis, the realities of speed running provide several problems that I'm not sure it's possible to overcome to get repeatable results that validate it one way or the other. While consistency is the hallmark of excellence, even Raz says you can run the exact same car, on the exact same gearing, with the exact same setup, at the same time of day at the same temperature, etc. and get a breadth of different resulting top speeds. How would we account for these discrepancies or try to eliminate all other variables aside from the body? One variable that would necessarily need to be eliminated (and fortunately can be) is throttle input as the human finger is far too imprecise to make two equal throttle pulls. Products like the Noble NB4 and Perfect Pass can remove this variable and provide consistent throttle input at least. But, to my mind, there's too much other stuff going on that can affect the outcome. I think unless you're able to get consistent, back to back to back runs, where one body runs 1-2mph faster or slower than the other every time it would be impossible to say what the cause of the discrepancies is. Unless of course you're seeing 5mph differences or something like that, I just don't expect that to be what we see. I could be totally wrong of course. I think it would be utterly fascinating to see if any advantage could be proven beyond a reasonable doubt comparing glossy and matte finished bodies and I'd fully support any attempt in doing so.

No hurry, whenever you're ready. :)
I remember the "shark skin" suits...and, oh yeah, those things got banned soooo quick. The advantage they gave was ridiculous. As for testing glossy vs matte, I'm open do doing it myself, is need be...but, as I mentioned, it will be a few months. Plus, since my eventual 'goal' is to switch to a GT body, I'm not worried about two Lim bodies. Once my Lim is operational, and initial testing is done, I could just buy two clear bodies, leaving one as-is, and just putting a matte finish on the other. "Curiosity" has me (after all, I am a cat).
 
As I haven't yet decided whether I'll be running the Perfect Pass CF wing, or the Raz Batwing, I figured I might as well trim down the rear wing (fronts already done, as might be noticable in the "nose" photo) to the Raz/Earl-recommended height. As much as I 'enjoy' having/using my DeWalt electric screwdriver, my Dremel is, by far, my MOST-use powered tool (now, if I could only get it to do the laundry).

20220925_114922.jpg


20220925_115537.jpg
 
As I haven't yet decided whether I'll be running the Perfect Pass CF wing, or the Raz Batwing, I figured I might as well trim down the rear wing (fronts already done, as might be noticable in the "nose" photo) to the Raz/Earl-recommended height. As much as I 'enjoy' having/using my DeWalt electric screwdriver, my Dremel is, by far, my MOST-use powered tool (now, if I could only get it to do the laundry).

View attachment 245859

View attachment 245860
Just downsize your washer/dryer and you should be good to go (y);)
 
Just downsize your washer/dryer and you should be good to go (y);)
It's already as small as it can get - apartment-size stacked washer/dryer (2BR condo, slightly more than 1100sq/ft). The Dremel had got to be one of the most amazing, most versatile, power tools every created. On my 2nd corded unit (bought 2yrs ago, to replace the 10yr-old unit), plus I have a cordless. After my hex wrenches, it's my most-used tool for RC...plus, I (like others) use it for so many non-RC uses.

Panther's "3 Rules Of Life":
1) You can't make it through life successfully without a good sense a humor. A "good woman/man" also helps.
2) Everyone should take at least one cruise in their life...and, if you only take one, make it an Alaskan cruise.
3) If you only have one power tool in your collection, make sure it's a Dremel (with as many attachments & accessories at possible).
 
It's already as small as it can get - apartment-size stacked washer/dryer (2BR condo, slightly more than 1100sq/ft). The Dremel had got to be one of the most amazing, most versatile, power tools every created. On my 2nd corded unit (bought 2yrs ago, to replace the 10yr-old unit), plus I have a cordless. After my hex wrenches, it's my most-used tool for RC...plus, I (like others) use it for so many non-RC uses.

Panther's "3 Rules Of Life":
1) You can't make it through life successfully without a good sense a humor. A "good woman/man" also helps.
2) Everyone should take at least one cruise in their life...and, if you only take one, make it an Alaskan cruise.
3) If you only have one power tool in your collection, make sure it's a Dremel (with as many attachments & accessories at possible).
I can get behind that. I think my most used tool is the DeWalt gyroscopic screwdriver. Love that thing. The Dremel is fantastic for so many things (I just sometimes wished it had a bit more torque but it gets the job done).
 
There's still nothing "under the hood"...but, I did get the body finished...well, sorta. But first, a 'warning' - there's are some "disturbing" images below.

Yes, I got the body painted...but, I frakked up, in one area SERIOUSLY bad (the rear, where I applied the flat/matte finish on the exterior). Admittedly, it's 100% my fault. I rushed the paint job. I forgot to check, and reapply (if needed), certain areas/pieces of tape between colors. I didn't measure, and mark, tape locations on the overspray film before starting. After spraying the red on the main body, but before spraying the blue, in removing the tape, I accidentally pealed off one of the interior protective window decals, and didn't notice until I went to remove all tape for the final time. And, my biggest 'sin' of all - because the LHS I was at was out of the Tamiya PS Flat Clear, I bought the Traxxas Matte (there are two other LHSs I could have gone too, but didn't think about until 4 days later, the day I sprayed the final computers, incl the matte). Even worse, knowing the 'delicacy' of said Traxxas spray, I still sprayed too heavy on the final two layers (for those not familiar with the Traxxas Clear Matte spray, if you do too heavy of a layer (or multiple layers), it turns white, very much in the same way that too heavy of a polyurethane coat turns yellowish).

Oh well...it is what it is. No use crying over spilled milk...or, in this case, a semi-crappy paint job. Thankfully, I'm not 'worried' - is won't affect the handling of the vehicle, and, I can always purchase/paint another body. However, if/when I do, I will do a much more careful/thorough job. Hopefully, by that time, I'll have moved to Las Vegas, and will have my airbrush kit 'operational' again.

Anyway, without further ado...and without punishing myself further for my mistakes...I present to you..."The Jester".

20220927_113601.jpg


20220927_113736.jpg


20220927_113649.jpg


20220927_114039.jpg


20220927_113822.jpg


20220927_113933.jpg
 
Looks great so far. I have seen you in various posts collecting knowledge. I am sure you will do great as this platform is night and day better than the 4tec platform.

If you have not already seen it James McCoy has a great video on shock setup. I tried some random fuel tubing and then tried the neon yellow tygon fuel tube he recommends and it really is good stuff.

My biggest 2 recommendations are to get a set of GRP XM3 tires and to start with 4s and learn on that. Happy to help you with electronics and gearing when you get to that stage of the build. 4s can go from 70 to 155 mph with the XLX2 and a strong motor like a TP4070 or Castle 1721.
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top