Kraton this is why you don't go to hobby shops..

[nino]

It will barely move any air... you should have offset it a bit with something so there's room between fan and motor. I agree with Streetsports, it does look great

 

[Niz55]

You have a good point . I am going to take it off.

 

[Streetsports]

Can't really do a side mount. I need a flat spot. I used high temp rtv to mount the fan. I think it should be ok.

Good point. Should work great.
Edit: I should have finished reading before responding. either way should be fine. This truck gets a crap ton of natural air flow through the body anyway.

 

[Niz55]

I just went to the garage and yank it off before rtv cured. Lol

Btw, the stock motor mount a really nice piece. It is stronger than the m2c and is thicker also. I can squeeze the m2c mount with my hand but not the stock mount.
Should of bought the insert and used the stock mount but didn't know in the first place. My suggestion is keep the stock mount and buy the aftermarket smaller mount and use the stock motor mount.

 

[SrC]

That fan position... makes sense on a brushed motor.

On a closed endbell brushed motor it would not make sense. IMO. On an open endbell (rebuildable) perhaps. Brushes generate 90% of the heat. Open endbell motors are heatsinked by default at the brush hoods. I feel on a BLX motor a fan placed on the end where the phase wires are is a proper area for cooling. This is where all the heat is generated from. Phase resistance creates that heat. Of course it will transfer to the can where most people place a fan. Bearings will generate heat also as they age and need lube. But that is not primary heat from load. I have a 20mm fan on that end of my BLX 2050kv motor. I have a 20mm Heatsink attached with a thermal glue at the end. I screwed the fan to the HS. I always got my highest temps at that end of the motor. They are much lower now. Even with this small fan/HS. It important to allow airflow to escape. There must be a gap. You just can't slam the fan against the surface you are cooling. That impedes the CFM's. It does nothing at that point. Just my spin.

 

[Niz55]

Question, the pinion I am using is smaller width that the spur gear. Is this going to be an issue?

 

[Niz55]

Jennyrc has the shocks in stock. I bought front and rear. 1 set f/r left.

 

[SrC]

Question, the pinion I am using is smaller width that the spur gear. Is this going to be an issue?

How much narrower is that pinion versus spur? What percentage difference are we talking?
In a perfect world, they should match in width or the pinion should be wider most of the time.. Not all pinions found are a match. A pinion gear is your motors drive output and should be the wider gear if not matched to the width of the spur.(best case) Can you run a narrower pinion? Yes. But accelerated wear on the spur/pinion will develop sooner than later. It may not be any great issue at all. Proper Gear mesh is more the priority while also making sure the pinion is at least centered to the spur well enough. IMO. Hope this helps.
edit:
Pinion and spur gears or any gear to gear contact will break in when new. I use a dry lube on new pinions and spurs. I feel it helps the initial breakin. The break-in is real fast and happens within the first run. After that no need to do it again. I find doing this makes for slightly quieter gears. Absolutely do not use any wet lube or grease!

 

[Niz55]

Unfortunately no pinion available that matches the stock spur . I am running 5687 8mm shaft. I am using limitless spur gear as my pinion.

Stock kraton spur is 8mm and limitless is 6mm.

I do have another pinion that is 10mm width but it is heavier than the limitless. I don't know if the weight is going to be an issue if I use it.

Limitless gear on the motor and the other heavier pinion on top.

 

[SrC]

The narrow pinion is not best. IMO. Go with the heavier weight wider pinion for sure.. Wont be much of any issue. That pinion has little/less rotating mass as a gear. You def. want the wider pinion. Like I said earlier, Pinion should be a match or wider than the spur. That's perfect.

 

[gotnitro]

I run a SAGA on mine and they are all smaller than the spur. I haven't had any problems with it at all on 12s. To piggyback @SrC , if you have the option to run a wider one in the tooth size you want I'd run that.

 

[Niz55]

On the heavier pinion I am going to shave some of the pinion off on the lathe tommorow at work.

 

[SrC]

I would not bother. That's a risk. You may brick that pinion....by feathering the tooth profiling. IMO.
These pinions teeth are CNC'd after they are shaved to width. Reshaving affects the teeth at the edges. Your call. But if you are confident and have high end equipment go for it. Again, I wouldn't bother. You will gain no advantage IMO.

 

[bicketybam]

I ran the Limitless spur as a pinion without any issue. Don't worry about it.

 

[JerryBoor]

I am looking for electrical and mechanical help with my Outcast and Talion 6s. I can't seem to be able to solder a EC5 bullet onto the ESC wires on my Mamba Monster 2 for my Talion. I also have a very bad noise coming from my Outcast trying to diagnose a glitchy throttle problem on the Outcast. I have upgraded transmitter and receiver to FlySky GT5, swapped out a bad BLX 185 ESC out of the Outcast and replaced it with the working ESC out of the Talion. I then swapped motors between the 2 trucks. The glitchy throttle is still there and now there is a bad noise coming from somewhere. The only things I have not done is checked the Diffs. I only have about 10 runs on the Outcast. I did buy the Outcast off the shelf at my local hobby shop (maybe that was a mistake.) I live in Pleasantville, NJ and would love to find someone local to help. Thanks in advance.